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Adjustable cast-iron industrial bases can be found at antiques shops or ordered online for less than $100. If doing this yourself with a tabletop planer, start by checking for nails and excess dirt. I got lots of questions about my Office Countertop after I posted that I built it out of Oak Flooring. My work space happened to be T-shaped, you could do the same thing with a straight countertop, or L or X or + shaped for that matter! The corner pieces had to be mitered at 45* angles for the corners as well as the top.  I used my miter saw for the end cuts. I have a table saw (a hand me down from my dad when he upgraded) but I have no idea how to use it yet.
I am definitely doing this in our next office – and now I know how with your very clear, totally understandable instructions! I came across this when looking for advice on building a base for a countertop made from wood flooring. Mona, I love the look of Tung oil which is food safe after it’s cured but here is an article from Fine Woodworking that lists some other options.
We noticed an earlier post where you responded about the tung oil being food safe after it cures.

I am interested if RayJan Ritchey ended up doing this project as discussed in this comment. PS Ripping long miters on a table saw is not an an operation that can be safely performed without proper training. We don’t live in that house any more Jen but I had them for 3 years (I think) and they held up great. When using this method for a kitchen countertop,would it be ok to use a water based stain and top it with several coats of poly such as Helms spar or a self leveling type like I see on tables or bar tops? We used a prefinished wood flooring and I LOVE the look – however in our case we have to deal with a small groove at each seam. I just moved in with my family to a bigger house and there is an extra room, which we have discussed to make it an office for my wife and I and other side for the kids study area.
It’s designed to give a nice finished edge and is much easier than having to create joints for that finished look. I don’t mean to be the only one with a negative comment but, I have to point out that expansion and contraction are big problems when using flooring for countertops. At the very least, tell your readers to research which side of the blade the fence should be on when mitering. My first thought was to google that but I wonder if I should email Sawdust Girl about it… so I googled and yours was the first link.

If you want to use this image click the download image link below to go to the download page. If you know someone doing a major renovation on an older house, chances are you can find 2x6 rafters or 2x8 floor joists ready to be saved from the landfill.
We are planning to paint the existing front trim of the counter top black, like the cabinets, and use oak bullnose, or stair nosing, to trim out the front edge of the counter surface.
I decided to fill in the seams with wood filler and sand the entire surface down and resurface. The right side of the room is going to be my wife and I’s office and the other side is for the kids.
You can’t glue or nail a long grain board perpendicular to the grain of the countertop- it will slowly break itself apart. No amount of sealer or finish or paint can stop this movement and if it hasn’t happened yet, it eventually will.

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