How to build wall shelves with brackets 6x6,custom wood signs for home decor,woodworking clamps auction zip - PDF Review

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This is the second post, and second bookshelf, in a series of projects about the remodeling of my office.
Most of the projects that I build involve the use of Kee Klamp pipe fittings, and this project is no exception. Cost: This is not a cheap project, I was paying more attention to what I wanted than budgetary numbers. Make the shelves long enough so that they rest on top of the fittings on either end of the shelf, and the fixing pads in the middle. Test fit the shelf after you get the first section of the support in place to be sure that you've measured everything properly. One of the advantages to using Kee Klamp is that there will be some play for you to adjust the pipe in the fittings even after the shelf has been mounted to the wall.
As I mentioned above, you want to make sure that the shelf is resting against the horizontal pipe in four places: on each end and on the two fixing pads. I’ve done some finish carpentry in the past, but I’m really more of a framer because I like to just throw things together quickly and make them as strong as possible.
I recently built some new garage shelves in the home we have been living in for a couple years now. Obviously you don’t have to make all the shelves be the same height, but make sure to have at least one of two rows of shelving tall enough for all of your tallest items.
Given the length of the walls I was building my shelves on, I bought my wood in the 8 foot lengths.
The wall I built these shelves on was about 14 feet long, so I needed two 8 foot sheets of plywood for each row.
Once you know the length of the wall, it’s fairly straightforward as far as counting up how many 2x3s and sheets of plywood you need.
As you can see in the picture below, I also used the perpendicular wall for increased support. After screwing and nailing the boards up on to the wall, you can put up the end boards (2x4s). For those with some kind of baseboard in your garage, you will need to take a chisel and notch out a spot for the vertical 2×4 boards that will go on the ends, against the wall.
Repeat this process with the next row up, but before you nail the vertical 2×4 to the second row, make sure to level it vertically with your long level. It’s a little difficult to see in these pictures, but I have also tacked in some support boards between the horizontal beams, coming out perpendicular to the main wall.
As you can see in the picture below, your garage shelves should be strong enough to double as a jungle gym for your kids! One of my goals with this design was that it would be simple enough for almost anyone to build (including myself). Great job, having sold steel shelving for the last 25 years, your system makes great use of the available space, you don’t have to try and fit standard steel shelf bays into the gap.
I would suggest trying concrete screws since you really only need the horizontal strength from the wall.
What was the spacing you used on the support boards between the horizontal beams, coming out perpendicular to the main wall and did you toe nail at the wall side?
I actually only used one perpendicular (from the wall) support piece for the entire length of the shelf because when you nail down the plywood shelving you gain plenty of perpendicular strength and the shelves are not deep enough to warrant perpendicular support beams. The only reason I put one in the middle was to help connect the spot where I had to splice the length of the shelf, and to hold it in place during the framing stage. I’m planning to do my own shelves and found these to be pretty similar to what I had in mind. With a 4 foot span I’m not sure the 2x3s would be sufficient, especially if you plan on storing a lot of heavy items on them. If you want to keep the paneling to match the rest of the garage you should be fine to leave it up. I love the design however I want to center my shelves on a wall and not have them attached to another perpendicular wall on the end like yours are. You really made a good job Michael having shelves like this in our garage can make all stuff in one place, my dad tried the steel before but measuring the gap really took a long time.
I had build a wall of shelves 8 years ago and have to disassemble them do to water leakage into my basement. I keep thinking about the square dimensions of the posts used in decking but believe I may be underestimating how strong wood can be. In your case I would probably add some vertical beams to your interior wall in addition to the ones on the outside of the shelves. As far as your concrete block wall is concerned, I would just use a concrete drill bit to pre-drill some holes and use concrete screws to attach the boards.
Thanks for sharing your success story – I’m glad to hear it worked out for you! Basic shelves are easy and inexpensive to construct using wood, plywood, or fiberboard cut to specific lengths and widths and hanging them from metal shelving standards (long metal strips that hold brackets) and arm brackets.
Consider saving time and skipping the cutting and sanding steps by taking your measurements to the lumberyard or home improvement store and having them cut the wood to your specifications. Keep in mind that plywood does not normally come in shelf-width planks, but in 4- by 8-foot sheets, which need to be cut or "ripped" into shelf width. For a finished look, you can add veneer tape to the front and sides of plywood shelves (also known as edge banding). If you are planning on making the shelves a prominent feature of a room, you can paint or stain them to match your color and design scheme. Of course, you can buy hardwood boards, such oak, or cherry, but these woods are expensive. How to Build Recessed Shelves - Adding Extra Storage Space - Built-ins, Shelves & Bookcases.
Install the shelves only on an interior wall so you don't have to remove insulation from an exterior wall. Once you've chosen the wall and located the stud bay you want, make sure there are no plumbing pipes in the bay. Here the shelving unit is trimmed with a Colonial-style casing that has been painted to match the room's window and door casings. Remember the awesome book storage solutions (here) I showed you the other day!?!  I loved one so much that my hubby offered to build it for me!  The Book Tower, similar to a wall bookcase found at CB2 and West Elm. Add a little extra support to the underside of the lower shelves  for storing heavier books. After securing all six shelves, he brought the bookcase spine into the house and mounted it into a stud in the wall, again using countersunk screws. Subscribe, Learn More, or connect with Aimee on Twitter, Facebook, Instagram, or Pinterest.
Just found your blog through pinterest – love, love, love this bookshelf and I’m loving that houndstooth!! Pinning this right away and putting it on our to do list for our basement when we take it on in April! Woodworking Projects Free Download Free downloads on woodworking projects, plans, techniques, Looking to get started on a new woodworking project? Building A Basement Storage Room with Built-In Shelving Home Construction Improvement Expert Home Improvement Advice SearchNeed Help? I will walk through the steps that it took me to create the wall mounted bookshelf that you see above.
I didn't just want a bookshelf, I wanted something that looked amazing, providing both form and function.


The design is also practical: interconnecting all the pipes in the structure gives the entire unit stability. The Kee Klamp fittings keep all the pipe connected together to form the structure of the bookshelves. You want to make sure that the pipe comes out from the wall so that it supports the shelf in the center. That will give you four points of contact on the shelf and keep the shelf from warping under the heavy weight of books. Because this shelf is going to be cantilevered off the wall, you really want to make sure that you hit a stud or some sort of wall reinforcement. That gives the shelf additional support and keeps it from torquing the pipe when you load it up with books. After you attach the shelf, then you can use your level to ensure that you have the shelf level (front to back). Once you've got everything in place, go through the entire unit and give the set screws an additional turn. The adjustable nature of the fittings allows for speedy assembly and adjustability after the structure is in place. With garage shelves, in my opinion, they don’t need to look fancy, but they do need to be sturdy – I’ve seen far too many saggy garage shelves that look like they’re going to come tumbling down at any moment. Divide this distance by the height of the tallest item you will be keeping on your shelves.
I made our bottom two shelves taller to hold the larger, heavier items (like food storage), and made the upper shelves a little bit shorter to hold the smaller, lighter items.
If your bottom shelf will have a 21 inch space under it, measure up 24 ? inches and use your level to draw a horizontal line all the way across the wall. I used a combination of 2x4s (for the vertical support posts), and 2x3s (for the main horizontal framework, including the boards tacked to the wall). For a 14 foot wall, I used 5 2×4 vertical posts, two on the end and three in the middle, each spaced about 3 ? feet apart. This is the fun part and if you’ve already measured and marked everything, the building portion should go fairly quickly (with this design). Place them over the horizontal lines you drew and put a nail in at each vertical line (where the studs are).
Measure and cut these boards (and all the other vertical support 2x4s) to be ? inch taller than the highest board against the wall. Start at the bottom and place something under one end, while you nail the other end to the perpendicular board that is against the wall. After you have leveled the 2×4 and nailed it to the second row, the remaining rows will go quickly. They should fit right into your frame and once nailed down will offer additional strength coming out of the wall, as well as side to side.
With the budget you have, you can actually do a lot of things with it but make sure to canvass for cheap but quality materials. My main goal was to build shelves that wouldn’t sag and would hold up well in the long run. Is there any way you could make the shelves within your system adjustable to give you even better use of space ? I would think that you could use this same design, just duplicate the back and front sides with the vertical beams, and then make sure to include some kind of diagonal support beams that go from the top left to bottom right, and top right to bottom left corners to maintain the horizontal strength. These should work since you don’t need the vertical strength from the wall, just horizontal.
It’s hard to resist a good opportunity to build something yourself and save some money!
You will have to pre-drill the holes with a hammer drill and a concrete drill bit, but concrete screws should work, in my opinion. If you decided to use thinner plywood than I did then you might need to add in more support beams. Just be sure you are screwing and or nailing into a stud behind the wall and not just into the panelling. Since those were secured to each horizontal shelf they really don’t move down on the floor. I just finished building these shelves in the center of a wall in my garage, there is no wall to attach to at either end. For the spacing of the vertical beams, I would try not to go beyond 4ft, unless you plan on using thicker horizontal beams. You could then cut all of the horizontal beams, that are to attach to the interior wall, to fit in between the vertical beams. For the width (or depth) of the shelves, I just measured the the widest item I knew I would be storing on the shelves and then made them an inch or two wider than that. It costs a little extra for the cuts, but it may be worth it if you are short on time and tools. Unless you have a circular saw and know how to use it, you will have to have plywood sheets cut into shelves at the home center or lumberyard when you purchase the sheets. It works great as display shelves in the living room or dining room or as handy extra shelving in a bathroom. Plumbing runs mostly vertically, so check in the basement to see if any pipes enter the wall directly below the bay. If there is no electrical switch directly to either side of the bay, there's probably no wiring. Just miter the casing and nail it to the unit sides and the wall studs -- neither biscuits nor pocket-hole screws are necessary. This is my first time on your blog… dropping by from The Shabby Creek Cottage link Party!
There's also a quaint simplicity in the shelf, the pipe is minimal bringing focus to the dark wood shelves and books. The shelves attach to the pipe structure through the use of another Kee Klamp fitting: the fixing pad.
In the picture below you can see how the shelf is long enough to overlap onto the fittings on the end. You really don't want to see all your books laying all over the floor because the screws come ripping out of the wall!
Starting at the bottom you're going to begin progressively constructing the pipe structure. If it is not level (left to right) then you can play with the fittings on the ends (hopefully you've already leveled this portion of the support structure). If you're in need of further inspiration, check out the bookshelf project category where you'll find numerous bookshelf designs all built with Kee Klamp pipe fittings. All the projects use Kee Klamp fittings to create an intriguing set of pipe furniture pieces.
In fact, I’ve actually had a pet killed by some pre-built garage shelves that collapsed. I wanted to share my experience to give other DIY-ers an idea of a simple shelving design that is built to last. I would also recommend storing all of your DIY chemicals like herbicides, pesticides, or cleaners on the top shelf, so your children cannot reach them (easily…).
Take your stud finder across the wall horizontally (twice), once up higher, and once down lower and mark each stud.
The next horizontal line should be 24 ? inches above that line (assuming all of your shelves will be the same height). I also used ? inch thick plywood for the shelving surface, with the smoother side of the plywood facing up.


You can do whatever you want here, but make sure you don’t go too far between the posts so you have enough strength. This is so that when you lay the plywood down on the top shelf it will fit into the frame for additional support.
Replace whatever you were using to support the other end with the first vertical support 2×4. I would still check each row with the level as some boards can be warped and will need to be bent into place. I guess I should have mentioned that $60 of that $200 was buying a new box of screws and a nails for my nail gun, which I obviously didn’t use all of them.
I also wanted to use wood because it’s cheaper and I already had all the tools to do it easily.
Instead of buying a shelving system, I thought it might be more price-efficient to try and reuse the planks we have. You might want to go with an entirely new design for your situation, however, since this design gains most of its strength from being attached to the wall. Some concrete screws come with a concrete drill bit that is the right diameter for the screws you are buying. As far as vertical strength is concerned, I personally think the 2x4s are good enough for your situation. Do you think I should remove the paneling from the wall that I’m building shelves on?
I will say that you should make sure they are all the way down on the floor before tacking them into place up above, to ensure that they are supporting the vertical weight of the shelf.
At the same time, it might work just fine since each of the vertical beams would be attached to more than two horizontal shelves, hindering that side-to-side movement. You can also buy melamine-coated particleboard (usually available already cut in a variety of standard widths and lengths) if you want an easy-to-clean surface. I’m always throwing away magazines because they seem to be in the way, but this is a beautiful and functional way to display them. Or, if you don?t need more shelving, use this as inspiration on how to style your current shelves!
If you are building your shelves yourself, you could probably do this entire project for right around $400.
I used about 4" of pipe so that the horizontal pipes would run right down the middle of the shelf. Be sure to give your shelves the proper support, but go for it and have fun with your design process.
This would equal roughly 4.4, which means that you have enough room for 4 rows of shelving with 21 inches of usable height.
Then take a 4 ft (or longer) level and trace a straight vertical line between the upper and lower marks. Nail it into place with only one nail so you can still pivot the board side to side and level it. I personally go for wood than any other material for shelves because 1) it is easy to work with 2) it is exudes a classic warm appeal.
I wanted the spacing to be large enough so I could get large tubs in and out, but still have enough support.
Having it attached to the wall should also help to prevent it from collapsing to the side, but again, I’m really not sure. I do wish I had a few more inches when storing some of my larger coolers, but I am still able to get them in. Once I knew that depth I wanted, I pre-cut all my plywood to that width so those pieces would just lay right into the frame.
You might instead want to match the window and door trim in the room -- casing the unit just as you would a window.
If you need help, our projects team is here to answer your questions and advise you on the different fittings at no cost at all.
My shelves were about 21 inches deep so I was able to get two, 8 foot long pieces out of each sheet.
If you plan on spacing your vertical beams at 4ft, or longer, I would at least upgrade your horizontal beams to 2x4s instead of 2x3s.
You can make the unit from any hardwood you like, or use pine with a painted or clear finish. It's a great place to ask questions on how to make things or for specific tutorials that you are looking for. This vertical line will be your guide to help you see where to screw the boards to the wall. I found this depth to be good for most tubs and other large items you would store, and plenty of room for storing several smaller items. I recently wrote a couple of posts, Finished Basement – Step 1 Insulation and Basement Framing and Insulation Update, about how to properly insulate a concrete foundation wall in a basement. The fiberglass insulation is kraft faced and it really should be protected against fire with drywall. However, seeing this is a storage room and I have no real source of fire I’m willing to take the risk.Storage Room ShelvingFor this project I’m planning on building two sets of 24? deep shelves along two of the walls. Along at least one of the other walls I’ll build some book shelves for the hundreds of books my wife and I have accumulated. I run their design-build division that specializes in custom homes, commercial design-build projects and sub-divisions. I'm also a licensed civil and structural engineer with extensive experience in civil and structural design and home construction. My hope is that I can share my experience in the home construction, home improvement and home renovation profession with other builders and home owners. You’ve not completely insulated the concrete to prevent that cool surface from condensating warm moist air coming from the finished space. So, some folks recommend the vapor barrier at the finished surface from letting that moisture into the framing.The foam board should be stopping all moisture from coming from the concrete side. It really depends on how thick the foam is and if you feel it has created a sufficient vapor barrier.
Some basement walls are completely exposed to the outside air, some are partially and others are totally under ground. The builder installed drainage pipes around the perimeter of the entire basement wall and the drainage pipe is exposed at the edge of the property.
What are your thoughts of using the Polyshield product versus a extruded Polystyrene products from Dow or Lowe’s version? Drylok is one of those things that I think is probably ok at keeping some moisture at bay but it won’t do a darn thing when cracks develop in the concrete. Plus if ever get a lot of water in the basement and need to remove the floor its going to be very difficult with the walls on top of it. However, what they are neglecting to tell you is how much water vapor is stored inside concrete.
You see concrete is like a huge sponge, millions of micro pores throughout that are filled with water. Insulating basement walls in cold climates is a great way to keep your home warmer and drier.
Maybe it's time to refinish your deck or add some new decorative touches to your tired deck.



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