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Like most first time buyers, I’m slowly but surely putting my mark on the place with a pretty limited budget and not a whole lot of experience - but bags of enthusiasm. I’ll be sharing the highs and lows of redecorating and renovation on The Relaxed Home – a place for inspiration and shared experiences on the wonderful ride that is homeownership.
Greenery around the front door creates a lovely rustic feel, but keep it in check to ensure it doesn’t swamp the front of your house. If your door leads straight into a room, such as a kitchen, rather than a hallway, make sure you have a sturdy doormat in place to stop any mud and dirt in its tracks and shake it out regularly to keep it looking spick and span. Don’t neglect the inside either, keep out the winter chill with a thick curtain across the door and keep a selection of large wicker baskets nearby for stowing away any potentially messy items like firewood or muddy boots. Unless you live in a cave (which still has curb appeal!) you know that the curb appeal of a house refers to the interest a house draws when someone drives or walks by. Hey baseball lovers, this is a fun project for your front door (and could also be made with tennis balls which would be much lighter, golf balls if you can drill thru them and softballs if you make it small because it will be heavy!). I started with this wreath form from Hobby Lobby that we snipped down with wire cutters to just ONE ring. As a side note, I also have INSANE "wreath twirling skills" as demonstrated in this very professional video right in the aisle at Hobby Lobby. We tried to just double feed the wire thru the last baseballs thinking that squeezing 2 wires into the holes would be snug enough to hold it together.
So we used Gorilla Glue to shoot down into the holes of the last few balls which were on the bottom of the wreath…..
Medieval Famagusta, 1192 Cyprus - Castle Door With Speak Easy - Historic Design - Fine Art Furnishing - Solid American Cedar Cypress (renewable resource timber) - Original Craft, Not Reproduction Made In The Same Hand And Materials As The Original - Designed From The Historic Record - Hand Hewn, Mortise And Tenon Joined (means master crafted no fast process) - Built The Old Fashioned Way "When Everything Made In America Was Built To Last Forever" And Craftsmen Were Proud To Sign Their Work - All Species Of Wood Are Available - Structural Frames Using Solid Full Length Timber (no fake laminates, scarf joints or glued up parts, no veneers - no glue ups - no bolt ons) - Master Craftsmanship That Ensures Your Furnishing Will Stand The Test Of Time - A True Family Heirloom And Valuable Future Antiquity - All Carvings Hand Carved By Our Master Carvers (no cnc, faux casted resin carving or gang carving) - Fine Art 10 Process Hand Rubbed Finished To World Class Antique Collectors Standards ( no spray on faux fast paint jobs ) - Guaranteed Forever - Backed By Our Over Nine Decades Of Fine Craftsmanship Since 1913.
Our exterior wood doors are custom handcrafted in the original craft and are not reproduction fast process doors.
Order your dream door custom designed for your residential or commercial property, and make a proper first impression that reflects your personality and accomplishments in the same way kings, queens and other aristocracy have done for thousands of years. Scottsdale Art Factory offers only the finest quality, artistic signature doors and entrances, individually created by our expert craftsmen, wood carvers, and metal smiths; with no limitations on size, design, thickness or finish.
Scottsdale Art Factory, a custom wood doors, wrought iron gate, and handmade furniture manufacturer based in Scottsdale, Arizona, and Designs by H.J.
Scottsdale Art Factory an American manufacturer of custom doors, gates, and designer furniture all handcrafted by master artisans since 1913. Instead of a traditional evergreen Christmas wreath, dress up your front door with a holiday swag made from fresh greenery, fabric branches and glittering pinecones. This homemade, evergreen holiday decoration adds a festive seasonal touch to the front door. We went with a solid wood door, because I like the way they look, and nothing compares to the sound they make when someone knocks, or the door closes.
I also went with the traditional craftsman look – a three panel door, with matching glass lites, a large dentil ledge, and a full sidelite in the same style. I bitched explained that I didn’t have a truck, and couldn’t install without my dad’s help, so this was really an inconvenience to have to find another time for him to come help me. With the door finally in my hands, or garage really, yesterday morning I went to Rockler to get some advice on how to best stain it. He also told me I probably wouldn’t need to use a wood conditioner because most doors come pre-sealed in some way or another. I poked my head out the door to grab Helen who was reading in the car, and brought her inside.
Then, taking his other piece of advice, I went to Home Depot and bought a Minwax Pre-stain wood conditioner, because I knew my door wasn’t pre-sealed and I wanted to make sure it didn’t blotch. Then, because I wanted to be able to stain the door and the frame separately, I took the door off of its hinges.
With the door down, I started by staining a few test pieces of wood to make sure the color would be right.
The pieces without the wood conditioner showed a bit of blotching, so I knew I made the right choice by going with the conditioner. I took one of the sample pieces to the front porch, where the door will be, to make sure the color looked good there – and it did, in all of its golden perfection.
With the door sanded and cleaned, I started by applying the wood conditioner with a foam brush. Followed by the stain, applied with a white rag.  You can use pieces of old t-shirts or buy bags of white rags at a home store, just make sure they don’t have any pigment or the mineral spirits in the stain can cause them to leach into the wood – bad news!
After the entire door was covered by stain, I then went back using a clean rag to wipe it off, in the direction of the grain. After waiting about 15 minutes for the filler to dry, I sanded and then repeated the steps on the backside and edges of the door – sanding, vacuuming, conditioning, staining.
Whilst I was getting a big order for timber together, the wife asked me about the front door I said I was going to make. I’ll be fitting a rim latch (so not having to cut in to the mid rail mortise and tenon) mounted at the mid rail height.
Thanks for the FENSA link, as far as I can tell the if it’s less than 50% glazed I can ignore officialdom.
The router got it’s work out, see my head cam post on the blog, or it will be on the web site soon.
You do a great job with both the written work as well as the graphics on the computer to show the method of work.
Many Many thanks, Andy, for your time and effort in sharing you project in such a clear and varied way. I was hesitating on making my own doors and windows for my Lean-Too, but now I will go right ahead.
You are an artisan, craftsman, and artist as you have taken an abstract thought and guided it into our realm of existence.


The draft proofing on my old front door did reduce the summer to winter changes in the door shape. Hello, I have just watched your door series and was wondering if you have ever put glass in the place of the wooden panels.
Hi just seen your video of making a wooden door and it has been very helpful as i’m doing a carpentry and joinery course, are you gonna do a video on making sash windows. Robbie, See if you can work out a away of getting the workshop (I built mine) without selling the wife. I am lucky as I have a big workshop and when I see the area you work in and the results that you get I am full of admiration for your skill.
Hi Mate heres a back handed compliment You are definately a joiner (or picked things up from one i.e. Keep up the fine work and I am already looking forward to discovering a new project of yours.
Hi Andy: Pl forgive the intrusion of an email, I’m not sure if you like being contacted directly, if you don’t – apologies. No Problem, if you don’t mind I add your question and my answer to the associated blog post.
So you can make doors with just basic hand tools, I’ve done it in the past, the machines save time (and money sizing timber). Please upgrade to a different browser or install Google Chrome Frame to better experience this site. I'm Liz, Editor of Housetohome and proud first time homeowner of the smallest two up two down south of the river (a Wendy house, if you will).
Expect lots of ideas for making your home - whatever size and shape - a relaxing place you can't wait to spend time in. This covers everything from the front lawn, to the paint colour of your windows, to the gleam of your front door. Painting the front door a soft sage-green creates a relaxed, country-feel, as does the vintage style iron wall light. A dedicated area for stashing shoes and coats is useful if you have the space, even if it’s just a small coathook or storage box. It is extremely important when you’re selling your house, but can be just plain fun when you simply live there. You can see where the arrow is on this picture that we had 2 loose ends that we somehow had to keep together. Our prices are usually lower than lesser quality name brand mass production fast process imports, "We Are The Factory," Hand Crafted In America Since 1913. Our master-level craftsmen, wood workers, and blacksmiths use their classical training and artistry to hand build our doors using historically correct methods that have been tried and tested throughout history to last for generations.
Nick, have been designing and building some of the world's finest furnishings all hand crafted in America since 1913.
The door was manufactured by Orepac, from their IMC “Craftsman Clear Beveled Glass” line, creative branding, eh? When my dad got here with his truck to help me pick it up, we discovered the door had been made wrong – it had two sidelites (one on each side). Since it’s fir, a relatively soft wood, he recommended using a gel stain to prevent blotching. We went with a “Prairie Wheat” gel stain made by General Finishes, per the managers recommendation. I started by using a punch and a hammer to carefully loosen the pin, then when the top of the pin poked out of the top, I could pull the entire pin out.
At this point, I unscrewed the hinges from the door and frame as well, so I could stain and seal behind them. I took the pieces of wood that had packed the door (extra pieces of fir from the door jamb itself) and then selected a piece on the back of the brick molding that wouldn’t show. There were a few rough spots on the wood, and a few spots of glue that had dripped onto the face during manufacture. According to the man at Rockler, the reason you go with the grain is that it helps push the stain into the wood and highlights the grain, rather than just sitting on the surface. I chose only to do the interior of the frame at this point, because after the door is installed, the exterior portion is going to have quite a few nail holes to fill, so I’ll stain and seal it after installation is complete. I’m so glad I went to Rockler to get advice instead of just heading to Home Depot and grabbing what called to me from the shelf.
Within half an hour I had got all the proportions right and all the dimensions for the timber sections.  Paper and pencil, a fantastic combination.
I think 900mm is generally about right for most people (or was it 1m?) but, I’ve seen many doors where the handles are awkwardly low.
And how symbolic it is that I came upon your work through this topic of making a door – a portal. Our houses are getting warmer and less well ventilated, all in the name of energy effiecency. I have a double margin half glazed oak monster that I’m about to start on and your videos have been inspirational.
Planning on remaking an old, rotting, beveled glass panel front door, and changing it from 2 different width 3 glass panels, and 2 wood ones, to 3 & 3 of matching widths, which I think will look better.
Finishing jobs is something I have a problem with, you might be interested to read the posts my other half has been adding. I have had to repair some in the where the glue has given up and the joints have started working apart. Did you have to do much work on the chisels to get them smooth so they can pull out easily? I am now 62 and my hobby has been cabinet making, having made all my own furniture at home.


As a Joiner with a full machine shop I can appreciate the time and effort needed to make a door the way you have. I have watched your videos re door construction with great interest and they have inspired me to at least consider building some doors for our Edwardian house.
But whether you’re selling or not, spending a bit of time and effort on the entrance to your house can help make it feel warm, inviting and cosy and will put you and your guests in the right frame of mind the second they step through it.
Using the correct building methods and tools as the historic design, we can recreate a design specific for each client's need for maximum security and an investment quality entrance door. Combined with the original 20% off, we ended up getting the door for about 45% off, plus we’ll get a tax credit because it’s energy efficient. Since a front door is the “gateway to the home” I wanted to make sure it turned out perfectly.
I’d never heard of General Finishes before, but when I opened it up and started using it, I was glad I went to Rockler.
Then, using my jimmy-rigged saw horses (coolers with Styrofoam insulation on top for padding), I laid the door face down so I could easily stain it.
I treated part of each section with wood conditioner, and another part without, and then stained both portions. I sanded using 150 grit paper (the highest recommended on the can of stain) to make the front of the door perfectly smooth. It creates a better match, and if the door ever needs to be re-stained, it’s easier to replace. There will be pause before it’s fully finished as the other half is going to working on the leaded glass. I IY perslucky to do Woodworking and General Construction for a living for the past 35 years. What I have seen here only drives me on to get going – many thanks for your inspiration. I haven’t done much woodworking to mean much since an injury from chemicals that damaged my body and brain 20+ yrs ago, but when I want something or to do it, I still want to and at least plan.
With dowels, its only the glue that hold the joint whereas with a wedged tenon there is the mechanical locking of the joint as well.
What is so refreshing about your site is the comments made, the quality of your workmanship.
I am a plasterer and there is lots of things I have not done but I have the skills to do them. I would recommend, a thicknesser, table saw and router table, if you have these you find yourself tackling many more jobs.
Space wise the router table ends up as a bit of work bench in my garage, the planer and saw bench go to one side and come out when needed. They all want investment value furnishings that make a proper statement reflecting their personality, or the personality of the environment for which the designer custom furnishings are intended.
I’m waiting now for a special that allows you to upgrade any interior door to solid-core for free before we update the interior doors (happens 2-4 times a year). I’ve used Minwax gel stains in the past and they are miserable – they’re too thick and set up too fast to be able to wipe them off nicely, which results in the blotchiness you were trying to avoid. I then used the vacuum with a dusting attachment to suck up all of the dust, being very careful not to scratch the surface. For the exterior side of the door, however, because wax obviously melts with heat and is not permanent, I opted to use a permanent wood filler. Also if the draught proofing around the door has a gap then an extra cold spot can develop, making the problem worse.
The extra width can be accomadated easily enough but the edges of double glazed units causes problems. Absolutely brilliant to see that handcrafted wood is still very alive in a world of chipboard and flat packs. All want investment value and furnishings that makes a proper statement reflecting their personality or the personality of the environment for which it is intended.
Our craftsmanship ensures your custom wood door and furnishings will stand the test of time, and all handcrafted doors and furnishings are Guaranteed Forever, backed by over a century of fine craftsmanship. Home Depot ended up being pretty good about it, even though it was the vendors fault, not theirs.
I filled the holes on the dentil ledge and around the windows using Famowood Wood Filler (Claims to be the no.
I must second the comments of Ed on both the written work and the graphics, and commend you on not only a great documentation and demonstration of your process, but, ultimately, a well executed creative process resulting in very fine work. The sealent around the edges of units can breakdown and you end up with condensation inside them. I cannot add to the comments already made, but to say, I would like to compliment you on your time effort and dedication to the art of wood working. I try to keep a open mind and look for ways I might be able to improve my ways of doing the same job. I only have a single garage and I have been looking at the Triton 2000 workcentre that can do all the woodworking jobs in one with had tools.
I like to make do with the minimum if I can, to get the job done as cheaply as possible, and to figure how to manage it. To be competitive the contractors today need to keep ahead what is changing in our industry just to keep up with what are customers are looking for when thy seek us out.



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