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I feel like our kitchen is fairly convenient to use except when it comes to the things stored in our base cabinets. This base cabinet was set up with 5 rather narrow individual doors and I was going to put 5 sets of pull out shelves in here.
I first apply glue to a strip of oak, then slip the piece of wood up behind the rail that forms the top of the cabinet opening. My first step is to cut the front and back of the shelf to length, based on the size of cabinet opening.
Once the front and back have been cut to the desired length, the sides simply slip into the grooves. To assemble the sliding shelf, I brush glue on the dovetails – push the parts together, then tap them into position.
Spicy Tomato Garlic Mussels Posted by Sara on February 8, 2014 The hubby loves all things seafood. Introduction to Concrete Slabs About Concrete Slabs Overview Concrete is a mixture of cement, sand, gravel and water which hardens over time to form a stone-like substance.
In our article on the making your own display shelves for collectibles, we casually mentioned some display shelves for collectibles. If you want something that look cute to go with your collection of dolls or plush toys, this rainbow wall storage by the Company Store will be a great choice. For storing and display your lego toys, we find the above glass display shelves to be the most ideal.
If you want a more modern look, this contemporary display shelves from officina41 can display your collectibles.
To make your own vintage suitcase shelves you must first source some sturdy and stylish old suitcases. Once you have gotten ahold of your suitcases it’s best to remove the fabric lining from the inside. Upcycling is when an object is rendered useless because it can no longer perform its original function (carrying clothes) and then kept from the land fill by finding another use for it. Recent Comments10 Great Upcycled Projects for Summer Holidays on Bubble Blower10 tolle individuelle Geschenkideen zum Nachmachen.
I’ve done some finish carpentry in the past, but I’m really more of a framer because I like to just throw things together quickly and make them as strong as possible.
I recently built some new garage shelves in the home we have been living in for a couple years now. Obviously you don’t have to make all the shelves be the same height, but make sure to have at least one of two rows of shelving tall enough for all of your tallest items. Given the length of the walls I was building my shelves on, I bought my wood in the 8 foot lengths. The wall I built these shelves on was about 14 feet long, so I needed two 8 foot sheets of plywood for each row.
Once you know the length of the wall, it’s fairly straightforward as far as counting up how many 2x3s and sheets of plywood you need. As you can see in the picture below, I also used the perpendicular wall for increased support.
After screwing and nailing the boards up on to the wall, you can put up the end boards (2x4s).
For those with some kind of baseboard in your garage, you will need to take a chisel and notch out a spot for the vertical 2×4 boards that will go on the ends, against the wall. Repeat this process with the next row up, but before you nail the vertical 2×4 to the second row, make sure to level it vertically with your long level. It’s a little difficult to see in these pictures, but I have also tacked in some support boards between the horizontal beams, coming out perpendicular to the main wall. As you can see in the picture below, your garage shelves should be strong enough to double as a jungle gym for your kids! One of my goals with this design was that it would be simple enough for almost anyone to build (including myself).
Great job, having sold steel shelving for the last 25 years, your system makes great use of the available space, you don’t have to try and fit standard steel shelf bays into the gap. I would suggest trying concrete screws since you really only need the horizontal strength from the wall. What was the spacing you used on the support boards between the horizontal beams, coming out perpendicular to the main wall and did you toe nail at the wall side? I actually only used one perpendicular (from the wall) support piece for the entire length of the shelf because when you nail down the plywood shelving you gain plenty of perpendicular strength and the shelves are not deep enough to warrant perpendicular support beams.
The only reason I put one in the middle was to help connect the spot where I had to splice the length of the shelf, and to hold it in place during the framing stage.
I’m planning to do my own shelves and found these to be pretty similar to what I had in mind.
With a 4 foot span I’m not sure the 2x3s would be sufficient, especially if you plan on storing a lot of heavy items on them. If you want to keep the paneling to match the rest of the garage you should be fine to leave it up.
I love the design however I want to center my shelves on a wall and not have them attached to another perpendicular wall on the end like yours are. You really made a good job Michael having shelves like this in our garage can make all stuff in one place, my dad tried the steel before but measuring the gap really took a long time. I had build a wall of shelves 8 years ago and have to disassemble them do to water leakage into my basement.
I keep thinking about the square dimensions of the posts used in decking but believe I may be underestimating how strong wood can be.
In your case I would probably add some vertical beams to your interior wall in addition to the ones on the outside of the shelves. As far as your concrete block wall is concerned, I would just use a concrete drill bit to pre-drill some holes and use concrete screws to attach the boards.
Thanks for sharing your success story – I’m glad to hear it worked out for you!
Another option, if you have a wide but shallow wardrobe, is to install individual shelving.
Now you will be wondering how you are going to wear all the clothes you can now take with you! I have to say that I am very impressed with all the modifications from you and the other community members but I LOVE this one. If you are not a member, please consider registering so you don't have to fill out this form each time you comment.
CommentsApril 19, 2016 on Mod #82: Air Conditioner Hard Start Capacitor by Robert m taylor - Have s 2000 model Coleman pop-up w. April 4, 2016 on Mod #100: Honeywell Digital Thermostat by Jim Veillette - Thank you for posting pics and this write up. March 3, 2016 on Mod #54: Laminate Flooring by Dave Tompkins - We own a 2012 Flagstaff 5th wheel. Birch wood can be used for a variety of different projects and some of them are very simple.
But then I got to thinking that each one of those shelves is going to be so narrow that I really couldnt put larger objects on it.

That will leave me with wide pull out shelves here and here and just one set of narrow shelves right here in the middle.
Set the whole assembly in place and snap the opposite ends of the glides into the corresponding slots on the front support post. Now the interesting thing about this kit is that it can be sized to fit just about any opening. I attach the frame section I removed earlier to the backside so that when closed, the cabinet doors will look the same as before. If you could even see it, it was about 12 inches wide and tucked way up in the back of the base cabinet. Now if I want to change the shelf position, all I have to do is unhook the door glide, reposition it and snap it back in place. You know what Ive learned from all this – that sometimes getting more storage space in my kitchen is not a matter of adding more cabinets, but getting more use out of the ones I already have. So for his Valentines Day gift this year I decided to make him a delicious meal of mussels.
Then, enter one of the following codes to activate the corresponding cheat function: Midas mode Enter MIDAS at the cheat menu.
Converting your attic from a storage space to a whole new wing of your home can really pay off.
This man-made material is extremely valuable in all kinds of building projects because of its hard, strong and durable characteristics. While the designs are great, the only thing I don’t like about them is the lack of doors to keep out the dust. We recommend taking a trip (or two) to your local flea market and checking out the antique postings on online classified websites. The panels will need to fit inside of openings of the cut suitcases, so measure each opening and cut a board to fit to size.
We think there are many ways to reuse objects and different people upcycle and repurpose in different ways based on their own needs. With garage shelves, in my opinion, they don’t need to look fancy, but they do need to be sturdy – I’ve seen far too many saggy garage shelves that look like they’re going to come tumbling down at any moment. Divide this distance by the height of the tallest item you will be keeping on your shelves.
I made our bottom two shelves taller to hold the larger, heavier items (like food storage), and made the upper shelves a little bit shorter to hold the smaller, lighter items. If your bottom shelf will have a 21 inch space under it, measure up 24 ? inches and use your level to draw a horizontal line all the way across the wall.
I used a combination of 2x4s (for the vertical support posts), and 2x3s (for the main horizontal framework, including the boards tacked to the wall). For a 14 foot wall, I used 5 2×4 vertical posts, two on the end and three in the middle, each spaced about 3 ? feet apart.
This is the fun part and if you’ve already measured and marked everything, the building portion should go fairly quickly (with this design).
Place them over the horizontal lines you drew and put a nail in at each vertical line (where the studs are).
Measure and cut these boards (and all the other vertical support 2x4s) to be ? inch taller than the highest board against the wall.
Start at the bottom and place something under one end, while you nail the other end to the perpendicular board that is against the wall.
After you have leveled the 2×4 and nailed it to the second row, the remaining rows will go quickly. They should fit right into your frame and once nailed down will offer additional strength coming out of the wall, as well as side to side.
With the budget you have, you can actually do a lot of things with it but make sure to canvass for cheap but quality materials.
My main goal was to build shelves that wouldn’t sag and would hold up well in the long run.
Is there any way you could make the shelves within your system adjustable to give you even better use of space ?
I would think that you could use this same design, just duplicate the back and front sides with the vertical beams, and then make sure to include some kind of diagonal support beams that go from the top left to bottom right, and top right to bottom left corners to maintain the horizontal strength. These should work since you don’t need the vertical strength from the wall, just horizontal. It’s hard to resist a good opportunity to build something yourself and save some money! You will have to pre-drill the holes with a hammer drill and a concrete drill bit, but concrete screws should work, in my opinion. If you decided to use thinner plywood than I did then you might need to add in more support beams.
Just be sure you are screwing and or nailing into a stud behind the wall and not just into the panelling. Since those were secured to each horizontal shelf they really don’t move down on the floor.
I just finished building these shelves in the center of a wall in my garage, there is no wall to attach to at either end.
For the spacing of the vertical beams, I would try not to go beyond 4ft, unless you plan on using thicker horizontal beams.
You could then cut all of the horizontal beams, that are to attach to the interior wall, to fit in between the vertical beams. For the width (or depth) of the shelves, I just measured the the widest item I knew I would be storing on the shelves and then made them an inch or two wider than that. These are typically used in a residential kitchen to organize a pantry or to reduce clutter in kitchen cabinets. This takes a little more effort in that you will have to come up with a way to support the shelves. Look around your RV and chances are you will find other areas you can add a shelf or basket to, like under the bathroom sink, or even a dinette bench. And most of the time, if I want something in the back, it means first unloading whats up front. Step one for me is removing the doors and the narrow half shelf thats nailed into the cabinet. Because of the granite countertop, I decided Id better do some reinforcing if Im going to remove those vertical supports. With the reinforcing strip in place, I can now cut away the vertical face frame sections using a Japanese handsaw. This method makes sure that everythings in alignment so I can go ahead and screw in the rear supports.
This slip resistant shelf liner will keep any contents from sliding around when the shelves are opened and closed. And over here for example what Ive done is put this shelf way down on the bottom to accommodate the tall bottles. The glass panels make it easy for your visitors to view your logo collections from any angle. As the editor-in-chief of Flea Market Style magazine, Ki created these shelves using discarded suitcases.

Next decide how deep you want your shelves to be and then wrap painter’s tape around the cases where you want to cut them. In fact, I’ve actually had a pet killed by some pre-built garage shelves that collapsed.
I wanted to share my experience to give other DIY-ers an idea of a simple shelving design that is built to last. I would also recommend storing all of your DIY chemicals like herbicides, pesticides, or cleaners on the top shelf, so your children cannot reach them (easily…). Take your stud finder across the wall horizontally (twice), once up higher, and once down lower and mark each stud. The next horizontal line should be 24 ? inches above that line (assuming all of your shelves will be the same height). I also used ? inch thick plywood for the shelving surface, with the smoother side of the plywood facing up. You can do whatever you want here, but make sure you don’t go too far between the posts so you have enough strength.
This is so that when you lay the plywood down on the top shelf it will fit into the frame for additional support. Replace whatever you were using to support the other end with the first vertical support 2×4. I would still check each row with the level as some boards can be warped and will need to be bent into place.
I guess I should have mentioned that $60 of that $200 was buying a new box of screws and a nails for my nail gun, which I obviously didn’t use all of them. I also wanted to use wood because it’s cheaper and I already had all the tools to do it easily.
Instead of buying a shelving system, I thought it might be more price-efficient to try and reuse the planks we have. You might want to go with an entirely new design for your situation, however, since this design gains most of its strength from being attached to the wall.
Some concrete screws come with a concrete drill bit that is the right diameter for the screws you are buying.
As far as vertical strength is concerned, I personally think the 2x4s are good enough for your situation. Do you think I should remove the paneling from the wall that I’m building shelves on? I will say that you should make sure they are all the way down on the floor before tacking them into place up above, to ensure that they are supporting the vertical weight of the shelf.
At the same time, it might work just fine since each of the vertical beams would be attached to more than two horizontal shelves, hindering that side-to-side movement. One way is to use some half inch hardwood strips and attach them along the back and sides of the wardrobe where you want to place the shelves, as well as behind the divider support between the two doors.
If you do you have some pictures, you should post them in the Member Mods forum with a write up! I hear there are people out there that actually like to clean, but I am not one of them, even though I used to work as a housecleaner. In order to get the perfect placement, use scrap pieces of paper cut to size for each suitcase board. This would equal roughly 4.4, which means that you have enough room for 4 rows of shelving with 21 inches of usable height. Then take a 4 ft (or longer) level and trace a straight vertical line between the upper and lower marks.
Nail it into place with only one nail so you can still pivot the board side to side and level it. I personally go for wood than any other material for shelves because 1) it is easy to work with 2) it is exudes a classic warm appeal. I wanted the spacing to be large enough so I could get large tubs in and out, but still have enough support.
Having it attached to the wall should also help to prevent it from collapsing to the side, but again, I’m really not sure. I do wish I had a few more inches when storing some of my larger coolers, but I am still able to get them in.
Once I knew that depth I wanted, I pre-cut all my plywood to that width so those pieces would just lay right into the frame. Many come with adjustable frames to fit the tall and narrow closets usually found on either side of the bed, and have anywhere from 2 to 5 baskets. If you need more display shelves, simply add on more shelves to increase the storage capacity without taking up more floor space.  If you want to buy glass display shelves for collectibles like the one we shown above, any big department store such as Daiso, Walmart and Sears have plenty at cheap prices. To cut through the cases, use either a scroll saw with a metal blade or a first a table saw and then a jig saw with a metal blade. My shelves were about 21 inches deep so I was able to get two, 8 foot long pieces out of each sheet.
If you plan on spacing your vertical beams at 4ft, or longer, I would at least upgrade your horizontal beams to 2x4s instead of 2x3s. Yet even though your RV may have a large wardrobe or closet for hanging clothes, the manufacturers rarely make the best of all the usable space within them.
The metal blade is important as most vintage suitcases will have a metal band that you need to cut through. This vertical line will be your guide to help you see where to screw the boards to the wall. I found this depth to be good for most tubs and other large items you would store, and plenty of room for storing several smaller items. As you can see, birch branches were used as support structure for also as decorative elements. You need to get the furniture to be suitable and matched with the design you have in the house. You have to get the design of the house to be great and well.The well design of the furniture would be so great and awesome. To make something similar you’ll need twine or fishing line, bark, a utility knife, a leather punch, light bulbs and electrical wire and sockets or a pendant lamp kit. You have to get the design of the furniture to be supportive the design and the atmosphere you want to have in the house.
You have to get the design to be great and suitable.You can set the unique design of the furniture for your house. To make one you’ll need birch logs, a drill, screws, moss and other decorations, succulents, a hot glue gun and chicken wire.
You basically just have to cut the logs into segments and to make sure they sit straight on the table. However, these are not logs, they are birch slices and, as you can see, they’ve been painted with chalkboard paint. Its shape is perfect because it provides stability so it might be difficult to find one that has this perfect shape.

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