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If you're on Pinterest as much as I am, then you know sliding barn doors are, like, design crack right now. So naturally, I wanted a barn door for our laundry room makeover, if only because I can't find anywhere else in the house to fit one. Stick the boards together with plenty of wood glue, and then secure them with ratcheting straps for a tight fit while the glue dries.
You want to get a nice, sharp bend, so go ahead and hammer the point all the way down if you have to.
Go ahead and hammer on the steel with the casing inside; you won't be needing the case for anything, so it doesn't matter if it gets banged up. Also drill holes lower down on your bar where you want the screws to go - the ones that will attach the bracket to your door. This bar is the same 1.5 inch solid steel as the door brackets, so just cut it to the length you'll need for over your doorway, and then drill holes spaced roughly 2 feet apart down the length of it. Oh, nearly forgot: you'll also want to install some kind of a door stop, so your door doesn't go banging into the corner wall or flying off the track. I've outlined the basics here, but if you want a much more detailed barn door tutorial (complete with diagrams and precise measurements), head over to this post by Jill of Baby Rabies. Have you seen how many stunning doors are out there are in salvage yards, garage sales, repurpose shops, AND your neighbours garage ?! Note:  I have also just recently created a new Ebook instruction manual for the door track hardware installation. Lynne, hoping this finds you well, and able to give me a response post haste ( I have a PhD in life and weird nomenclature…lol). August 11, 2015 By Angie Holden 4 Comments Share with your friends!I have wanted a wood door mat for a long time y’all. I think it brings some major character to an otherwise overlooked space in a once cookie cutter house.
I’ll try not to get all technical with the measurements, because all of that depends on the width of your own door.


We used wood filler to fill in the gaps between the boards, (once it was dry, we sanded) and then cut the trim to fit.
And with a small pocket rod I made at the top, hung it backwards on the rod so that the front would face the outside. I would really love to have you come do a guest post about this project on my blog Remodelaholic if you are interested please let me know and I will send you the details! Jamin is so talented and you are lucky to have someone that loves projects as much as you do. They seem to work with just about every style, from ultra modern to shabby chic to vintage industrial, and they SLIDE OPEN. John and I looked for sliding barn door hardware online, and the cheapest price we could find was about four hundred dollars - and that's just for the hardware! It doesn't require nearly as many power tools as you might think, either: just a strong drill and an angle grinder with a steel cutting disk to cut the metal rails. The original pulley pin will probably be just a hair too short, so you may need to get a slightly longer bolt with a nut to hold it in place.
Make sure you drill these holes in the lower third of your bar, not directly in the middle.
This is important because you want your door's wheels to be able to roll over the bolts without hitting them.
The door does overlap the edge by about four inches when it's open (the wall wasn't quite big enough for it to slide back further), but that's not an issue for us. Our stop is a simple L bracket padded with black rubber on the lower part of the wall by those two pipes.
We're still not done, of course; next I'll show you our plumber's pipe shelving and the super fun and steampunky way we've devised to hide our water heater.
We are remodeling a little Charlestonian cottage and need to separate a long open room into two rooms.
I’m working on hanging 100+ year old doors in my living room (salvaged from an old library).


You can purchase the door track hardware kit which includes the wheels, or you may purchase the gorgy gorgeous wheels on their own. Being the wild and wacky Xmas season, what is the approximate time frame for orders placed today?
And then reality hit, and we realized that with three children five and under…we were doomed in the destruction department. We may or may not have had this put together, when we realized we did it too wide, and had to start over. Totally worth it to make and design my own, to get what we wanted…with a major price difference of about 130 smacks from purchasing one. But what I’d love to know is how you chiseled out for the door hinges to sit in the side of the door instead of on top of it?
That bit's not quite finished yet, though, so believe me when I say I'm probably WAY more excited to see this than you guys are. If you wanted to make the back of yours pretty, you would simply repeat the first few steps, and join them to the back of your door, complete with more trim if you like. That is the quick easy way to do it, but there are all kinds of tutorials out there about chiseling a door out. Between the steel bar and the anchor is a half-inch steel tube, cut to about two inches in length. Then we put all of the pieces of trim, cut to fit, in the insides of the door, and it all fit together quite seamlessly, especially once painted.
I have wanted a front screen door for so long but the ones at the stores have the screens and the bottom. Thanks again – looking forward to buying and using the kits if the clearance works for me.



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