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This blog post will take you step-by-step through the process of a recent pet door installation we did in Portland, Oregon for a medium sized dog. Once the decision has been made for the location of the pet door installation it is time to get to work.
Other Project Comments: In this case, the Portland are client supplied the trim kit and exterior wall plate and we left the work site completely cleaned so they were ready to enjoy their new pet door. We begin by cutting a small round hole on the interior wall in order to check inside the wall. Interior picture pet door cut-out showing the tie-down bolt and, bracket and electrical box.Cut-out of exterior siding. We began by cutting the excess portion of tie-down bolt with a multi-master oscillating saw. Multi-master tool will cut the excess tie-down bolt for the installation of the pet door.Exterior outlet boxed that needed to be swapped out for a rectangular outlet box to make way for the pet door installation. In between the interior and exterior trim kit we install a wall sleeve to protect your pet from the wall insulation. INTERIOR DOORFRAMING LEARNING OBJECTIVE: Upon completing this section, you should be able to describe the procedures for laying out and installing interior doofram es, doors, and the hardware used.
When checked, Shutterstock's safe search screens restricted content and excludes it from your search results. If there is electrical running through the wall we might want to choose another location and patching the small round hole is a simpler task than irresponsibly just beginning with large exterior cuts to your siding.

Next, we changed a round exterior electrical box to a rectangular electrical box in order to make room for the exterior trim of the pet door.
During this pet door installation we found 4 obstacles 2 electrical outlet boxes and a foundation tie-down bolt and bracket. The customer supplied their won plate cover to match their home exterior (not pictured here). After cutting out the rectangular space from the interior and exterior it was time to deal with the obstacles.
Interior doorframes are made up of two side jambs, a head jamb, and the stop moldings upon which the door closes.
These sizes vary a great deal, and sliding doors, folding door units, and similar types are often used for wardrobes and may be 6 feet or more in width. However, in most cases, the jamb stop and casing parts are used in some manner to frame and finish the opening. Flush interior doors usually have a hollow core of light framework and are faced with thin plywood or hardboard (shown in fig.
6-25, view A) maybe obtained in gum, birch, oak mahogany, and several other wood species, most of which are suitable for natural finish. When casing is square-edged, a butt joint maybe made at the junction of the side and head casing (fig. 6-26, view C), If the moisture content of the casing material is high, a mitered joint may open slightly at the outer edge as the material dries.

Actually, use of a spline joint under any moisture condition is considered good practice, and some prefitted jamb, door, and casing units are provided with splined joints. The difference in exposure on the opposite sides of exterior doors causes a tendency to warp during the winter.
Three hinges are also useful on doors that lead to unheated attics and for wider and heavier doors that may be used within the structure.
Most sets come with paper templates, marking the location of the lock and size of the holes to be drilled. Some types, such as mortise locks, combination dead bolts, and latch locksets, require drilling of the edge and face of the door and then routing of the edge to accommodate the lockset and faceplate (fig, 6-29, view B). A bored lockset (view C) is easy to install since it requires only one hole drilled in the edge and one in the face of the door.
To install, mark the location of the latch on the doorjamb and locate the position of the strike plate by outlining it.

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