Make shelves from planks,mid century modern coffee table for sale hause,ms project plan best practices - PDF 2016

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The pallet wood is serving greatly and terrifically in wall decoration by making with it the pallet racks, picture shelves and bookshelves. I’ve done some finish carpentry in the past, but I’m really more of a framer because I like to just throw things together quickly and make them as strong as possible.
I recently built some new garage shelves in the home we have been living in for a couple years now. Obviously you don’t have to make all the shelves be the same height, but make sure to have at least one of two rows of shelving tall enough for all of your tallest items. Given the length of the walls I was building my shelves on, I bought my wood in the 8 foot lengths.
The wall I built these shelves on was about 14 feet long, so I needed two 8 foot sheets of plywood for each row. Once you know the length of the wall, it’s fairly straightforward as far as counting up how many 2x3s and sheets of plywood you need.
As you can see in the picture below, I also used the perpendicular wall for increased support. After screwing and nailing the boards up on to the wall, you can put up the end boards (2x4s). For those with some kind of baseboard in your garage, you will need to take a chisel and notch out a spot for the vertical 2×4 boards that will go on the ends, against the wall. Repeat this process with the next row up, but before you nail the vertical 2×4 to the second row, make sure to level it vertically with your long level. It’s a little difficult to see in these pictures, but I have also tacked in some support boards between the horizontal beams, coming out perpendicular to the main wall. As you can see in the picture below, your garage shelves should be strong enough to double as a jungle gym for your kids!
One of my goals with this design was that it would be simple enough for almost anyone to build (including myself). Great job, having sold steel shelving for the last 25 years, your system makes great use of the available space, you don’t have to try and fit standard steel shelf bays into the gap. I would suggest trying concrete screws since you really only need the horizontal strength from the wall. What was the spacing you used on the support boards between the horizontal beams, coming out perpendicular to the main wall and did you toe nail at the wall side?
I actually only used one perpendicular (from the wall) support piece for the entire length of the shelf because when you nail down the plywood shelving you gain plenty of perpendicular strength and the shelves are not deep enough to warrant perpendicular support beams. The only reason I put one in the middle was to help connect the spot where I had to splice the length of the shelf, and to hold it in place during the framing stage.
I’m planning to do my own shelves and found these to be pretty similar to what I had in mind. With a 4 foot span I’m not sure the 2x3s would be sufficient, especially if you plan on storing a lot of heavy items on them. If you want to keep the paneling to match the rest of the garage you should be fine to leave it up. I love the design however I want to center my shelves on a wall and not have them attached to another perpendicular wall on the end like yours are.
You really made a good job Michael having shelves like this in our garage can make all stuff in one place, my dad tried the steel before but measuring the gap really took a long time.
I had build a wall of shelves 8 years ago and have to disassemble them do to water leakage into my basement.
I keep thinking about the square dimensions of the posts used in decking but believe I may be underestimating how strong wood can be.
In your case I would probably add some vertical beams to your interior wall in addition to the ones on the outside of the shelves. As far as your concrete block wall is concerned, I would just use a concrete drill bit to pre-drill some holes and use concrete screws to attach the boards. Thanks for sharing your success story – I’m glad to hear it worked out for you! Paper has a poor reputation as flimsy, failing on various material fronts including general durability and appearance, not to mention its vulnerability when wet – making these furnishings look at first implausible, then ingenious.
There is a silver (or at least light-gray) lining to the soft and flexible properties of this material – it can be dissolved and reconstituted into elongated shapes that can be cut just like wooden boards or molded into three-dimensionally round forms to create faux ceramics. We sold the old wall unit and embarked on the master planning of the new plumbing conduit shelving unit. Unfortunately the sun set before I finished playing around with it, so of course it’s already styled differently. This shelving project is what led me to install those controversial doors on the fireplace bookcases. What a beautiful professional job!Your blog is a constant inspiration, the Eames chairs and now this… who needs a fortune when you've got creativity, taste, wit and patience? I had the same reaction when I saw the ace shelves, but now someone else has done it first, and made it that much easier on me!!!
You just unscrew the pipe from the 3-way tee and then thread the pipe through and screw it back in to secure. After everything is pieced to together and attached to the wall it really doesn't need to be secured at the bottom. It took me a few weeks (my husband thinks I'm obsessed- I am) but I decided to read your blog from the beginning to really feel and appreciate the progress. I thought I was smart when years ago I walked to my local HomeHardware to get some copper pipes to make curtain rods. PS: can you get rid of the classical-profile moulding strip along the top of the fireplace mantel? I am loving me this, and all the ensuing comments, and anonymousarchitect coming to the table.
The pipes are galvanized and the pre-cut lengths are threaded, but the custom lengths had to be threaded in the store. I picked up off craigslist years ago…there are no tags, and the guy said it was used for photo shoots in Palm Springs. 2) what happens in when the wood shelving meets the 90degree elbows on the back bottom of the shelves?
3) you say it is sturdy… could it handle some more weight and books without shifting around? I think so – the supports are screwed into the two pipes and are super sturdy, but it depends on what the length between supports is and how thick the wood is.


Two feet between pipes (and shelf supports) means there should be no problem with deflection.
You could also just buy black plumbers pipe, rather than galvanized, and get a similar yet slightly more rough appearance. I have the same question as Chanpory: Did you screw directly into the wall studs or use those plastic drywall anchors? Hey question, So i just went to put my shelf together this week and the stain turned out HORRIBLE on the pine. Only thing that I am unhappy with (totally my mistake, not the design) was using 2 coats of the stain mix, which evened out the color but made the wood very very dark and obscured the grain. Considering some pipe shelving for my office so I’m planning it out using your excellent blog post.
A piece of advice: take a steel brush to the threads on your pipes and thoroughly clean the female connections on the fittings as well. But seeing them in action reveals just how smart and useful these unique shelves are.When they are not in use, or when you simply need more space, the planks flip onto their sides and lie flat against the wall. In case you did, I decided to start the week on a DIY note, with some beautiful DIY shelves.
These shelves serve as a main centerpiece and focal point in living room for decorative and memorable accessories.
With garage shelves, in my opinion, they don’t need to look fancy, but they do need to be sturdy – I’ve seen far too many saggy garage shelves that look like they’re going to come tumbling down at any moment. Divide this distance by the height of the tallest item you will be keeping on your shelves. I made our bottom two shelves taller to hold the larger, heavier items (like food storage), and made the upper shelves a little bit shorter to hold the smaller, lighter items.
If your bottom shelf will have a 21 inch space under it, measure up 24 ? inches and use your level to draw a horizontal line all the way across the wall.
I used a combination of 2x4s (for the vertical support posts), and 2x3s (for the main horizontal framework, including the boards tacked to the wall). For a 14 foot wall, I used 5 2×4 vertical posts, two on the end and three in the middle, each spaced about 3 ? feet apart. This is the fun part and if you’ve already measured and marked everything, the building portion should go fairly quickly (with this design). Place them over the horizontal lines you drew and put a nail in at each vertical line (where the studs are). Measure and cut these boards (and all the other vertical support 2x4s) to be ? inch taller than the highest board against the wall. Start at the bottom and place something under one end, while you nail the other end to the perpendicular board that is against the wall. After you have leveled the 2×4 and nailed it to the second row, the remaining rows will go quickly. They should fit right into your frame and once nailed down will offer additional strength coming out of the wall, as well as side to side. With the budget you have, you can actually do a lot of things with it but make sure to canvass for cheap but quality materials. My main goal was to build shelves that wouldn’t sag and would hold up well in the long run. Is there any way you could make the shelves within your system adjustable to give you even better use of space ?
I would think that you could use this same design, just duplicate the back and front sides with the vertical beams, and then make sure to include some kind of diagonal support beams that go from the top left to bottom right, and top right to bottom left corners to maintain the horizontal strength. These should work since you don’t need the vertical strength from the wall, just horizontal.
It’s hard to resist a good opportunity to build something yourself and save some money! You will have to pre-drill the holes with a hammer drill and a concrete drill bit, but concrete screws should work, in my opinion. If you decided to use thinner plywood than I did then you might need to add in more support beams.
Just be sure you are screwing and or nailing into a stud behind the wall and not just into the panelling. Since those were secured to each horizontal shelf they really don’t move down on the floor.
I just finished building these shelves in the center of a wall in my garage, there is no wall to attach to at either end. For the spacing of the vertical beams, I would try not to go beyond 4ft, unless you plan on using thicker horizontal beams. You could then cut all of the horizontal beams, that are to attach to the interior wall, to fit in between the vertical beams. For the width (or depth) of the shelves, I just measured the the widest item I knew I would be storing on the shelves and then made them an inch or two wider than that.
I knew I wanted a big wall of open shelving in the living room and didn’t want the two areas to compete.
I mean, I LIKED the doors on the bookshelves, but with all this other open display, it makes perfect sense now. How did you do that on the left side when you already had the left side pipe installed before the longer shelves? I felt the frustration when you felt like breaking down a few times (especially with the outside of the house and the bathrooms. I wanted to build some pipe shelves too, but my boyfriend won't let me I'm going to try to convince him, because this looks dope! I'm looking to recreate this system on a wall in my kitchen, and ideally it will hold my cookbooks and microwave (its a hefty 40lb microwave oven). The whole thing is about nine feet wide, I think it broke down to four feet and then two feet between vertical pipes, with like six inches of overhang on each end. Just curious as we’re planning on building these, but it would be great to make full use of this corner we have in the office.
I wish I could show you some pictures (is it possible to set up a place here, where some of us grateful people can show how you’ve inspired us?), it just looks awesome against my brick wall. Also, instead of painting over my pipes, I just left it as is – i like the dark greyish, muted tone of the black iron pipes and the connectors.
I just discovered your blog by way of Brooklyn Limestone and I’m completely blown away. In fact, I’ve actually had a pet killed by some pre-built garage shelves that collapsed. I wanted to share my experience to give other DIY-ers an idea of a simple shelving design that is built to last.


I would also recommend storing all of your DIY chemicals like herbicides, pesticides, or cleaners on the top shelf, so your children cannot reach them (easily…). Take your stud finder across the wall horizontally (twice), once up higher, and once down lower and mark each stud.
The next horizontal line should be 24 ? inches above that line (assuming all of your shelves will be the same height). I also used ? inch thick plywood for the shelving surface, with the smoother side of the plywood facing up. You can do whatever you want here, but make sure you don’t go too far between the posts so you have enough strength.
This is so that when you lay the plywood down on the top shelf it will fit into the frame for additional support. Replace whatever you were using to support the other end with the first vertical support 2×4.
I would still check each row with the level as some boards can be warped and will need to be bent into place.
I guess I should have mentioned that $60 of that $200 was buying a new box of screws and a nails for my nail gun, which I obviously didn’t use all of them.
I also wanted to use wood because it’s cheaper and I already had all the tools to do it easily. Instead of buying a shelving system, I thought it might be more price-efficient to try and reuse the planks we have. You might want to go with an entirely new design for your situation, however, since this design gains most of its strength from being attached to the wall.
Some concrete screws come with a concrete drill bit that is the right diameter for the screws you are buying. As far as vertical strength is concerned, I personally think the 2x4s are good enough for your situation. Do you think I should remove the paneling from the wall that I’m building shelves on? I will say that you should make sure they are all the way down on the floor before tacking them into place up above, to ensure that they are supporting the vertical weight of the shelf. At the same time, it might work just fine since each of the vertical beams would be attached to more than two horizontal shelves, hindering that side-to-side movement.
It took over a week, a lot of frustration (with many changes to the original plan) and about $200. The Boy and I assembled it by ourselves pretty quickly and surprisingly easily and then secured it to the wall with some screws through the flanges. I have open shelving in the den, kitchen, dining room and now a whole wall in the living room, so I thought we could sacrifice those bookcases being open – especially since I could never could get them to look right.
I'm calling my husband over to the computer as I type this to show him what I want him to do to our stone wall.
I was thinking of just building two of these so that one goes all the way into the wall in the corner and the other one would stop at the beginning of the first one’s shelves (if that makes sense). And did you run into any problems with having the threads going the wrong direction when you hooked multiple pipes together?
This would equal roughly 4.4, which means that you have enough room for 4 rows of shelving with 21 inches of usable height. Then take a 4 ft (or longer) level and trace a straight vertical line between the upper and lower marks. Nail it into place with only one nail so you can still pivot the board side to side and level it. I personally go for wood than any other material for shelves because 1) it is easy to work with 2) it is exudes a classic warm appeal.
I wanted the spacing to be large enough so I could get large tubs in and out, but still have enough support. Having it attached to the wall should also help to prevent it from collapsing to the side, but again, I’m really not sure. I do wish I had a few more inches when storing some of my larger coolers, but I am still able to get them in. Once I knew that depth I wanted, I pre-cut all my plywood to that width so those pieces would just lay right into the frame. That wouldn’t look as clean as actually building either a continuous shelf into and out of the corner or even cutting the shelves so they were angled and fit against each other in the corner. These creators of these 11 DIY shelving projects show us how easy it can be to give your home some functional, yet attractive, storage solutions.Not Your Average Wood ShelvesInspired by all of the amazing character and charm of her farmhouse, First Home Dreams simply used a bit of ingenuity and a cordless drill to create some lovely DIY bathroom shelves. My shelves were about 21 inches deep so I was able to get two, 8 foot long pieces out of each sheet. If you plan on spacing your vertical beams at 4ft, or longer, I would at least upgrade your horizontal beams to 2x4s instead of 2x3s.
On the other hand, building two of these would allow us to possibly make better use of them in a different place if we were to move later on, as we wouldn’t be constrained to using them in a corner. By flipping the way the brackets were hung, she created a whole new vintage vibe for her shelving.Worn leather and reclaimed wood are, in my opinion, a match made in heaven! This vertical line will be your guide to help you see where to screw the boards to the wall.
I found this depth to be good for most tubs and other large items you would store, and plenty of room for storing several smaller items. I had major ups and downs (still do) but your blog really helped me get over it and l am reminding myself that patience and determination is the way to go when you don't have the cash!
However, Thrifty and Chic takes this idea to a whole new level by hand crafting her crates to custom sizes using recycled wood to perfectly fit the space. With a coat of white paint and some gorgeous styling, she created an elegant, coastal display wall in her dining room.Our next DIY shelving project was created by Life At Home (a blog by IKEA) using their Prant storage boxes, some pastel paints, and a few binder clips to attach everything together, resulting in a Cubism-inspired masterpiece. Not only is this fully customizable, but you can change it any time you’d like thanks to the binder clips!
Unfortunately, it looks like the Prant boxes are no longer available at Ikea, but any basic, thin wood boxes will do.
By creating new planks to rest on the rungs of an old ladder, which was updated with a bright coat of paint, A Beautiful Mess created a one-of-a-kind display shelf for her plants.



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