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Making a Door isn’t the average DIY job but with the right woodworking tools  and the right information its not too difficult. If it’s been a lack a available traditional style door plans that has put you off in the past, my appologies, now you have no excuse not to make you own door.
Hi Andy I am making a front door at the moment and although I consider myself to be a reasonable chippy I had not come across the eouter method for making the panels before coming across yours.
Hi Peter, Thanks for your comment it’s great to know the method is useful for experienced woodworkers.
Thanks Hal, The latest video is a step in to the past, making a timber beam using old tools, froe, axe and adze. Cutting tenons is an excellent approach, but I’ve found it difficult to get the finished surfaces flush. Router table is very useful but I’ve cut things like tenons using a circular saw (or table saw) to make multiple parallel cuts and then clean up with a chisel, watch your fingers though ! Second is the joints where end grain meets side grain, the end grain will swell more so there will be movement stressing the joints that can cause the glued surfaces to break apart. The panels can be fitted in rebates or grooves as an alternative so you dont have to use mouldings.
Voce realizou um trabalho magnifico, essa porta ficou maravilhosa, sua gentileza e generosidade em dar o passo a passo da execucao foi da porta, foi uma coisa grandiosa, servira de inspiracao pra muitos, inclusive para mim, que preciso fazer duas portas.
Incidentally, I found your site through the ‘Tube, where I looked for a means of making bolection moulding for a small alcove cupboard I am planning.
Hi Tim, the loose tenons will save a bit on timber but it means taking a lot of material out of the end grain, can’t be wedged and is in essence another joint that has the potential to fail. Cheers Peter, It’s great to know the things we come up with in an isolated garage in the UK manages to get across the whole world and adds to general knowledge. I never make my tendons full width of he stock which gives a bit of room to hide a bit of error if the mortising chisel slips a bit, or if you use a plunge router as I do. I can see I could have been a bit clearer on the website, I’ll add a bit when I get chance.
The roughing out on the table saw is just a quick way of getting rid of the bulk of the material, rather than taking it all off with the router. I hope you can see now the accuracy comes in on the router table with the angle jig, removing the last of the material to the dimension required.
It’s not as time consuming as you might initially think but certainly commercial work, when you need lots of similar panels, would be best done with a spindle moulder and custom ground bits. I’m assuming that you cut to square the extended wood from the top and bottom once the glue dried? Hi Emmanuel, I’ve not done any specific plans for jig, it would depend on the size of panels and angles you what to use. I love woodwork although I’m not a woodworker but I love router table and you have shown how versatile router cutters are when used together in different ways there must be a million combinations of cutter mixes for patterns. I think this is brilliant a few years ago I wanted some panel internal doors and had to have then made.
Hi Jim, Good questions, for the mouldings and for the timber and where to buy it, try here.
If you're on Pinterest as much as I am, then you know sliding barn doors are, like, design crack right now.
So naturally, I wanted a barn door for our laundry room makeover, if only because I can't find anywhere else in the house to fit one.
Stick the boards together with plenty of wood glue, and then secure them with ratcheting straps for a tight fit while the glue dries. You want to get a nice, sharp bend, so go ahead and hammer the point all the way down if you have to. Go ahead and hammer on the steel with the casing inside; you won't be needing the case for anything, so it doesn't matter if it gets banged up. Also drill holes lower down on your bar where you want the screws to go - the ones that will attach the bracket to your door. This bar is the same 1.5 inch solid steel as the door brackets, so just cut it to the length you'll need for over your doorway, and then drill holes spaced roughly 2 feet apart down the length of it.
Oh, nearly forgot: you'll also want to install some kind of a door stop, so your door doesn't go banging into the corner wall or flying off the track.
I've outlined the basics here, but if you want a much more detailed barn door tutorial (complete with diagrams and precise measurements), head over to this post by Jill of Baby Rabies. Door-making is not as difficult to master as you might think, and this project will give you all you need to know to build a simple interior door.
Making your own doors is not as difficult as you might imagine, and the design possibilities are almost unlimited. I cannot emphasize enough the importance of using dry, straight-grained lumber for a project such as this.
The materials list shows the material required to make one 30" x 80" door, a common size, but it can easily be adapted to suit doors of other dimensions.
By adjusting the shed design a saving in time and quality can be had including a certain quirkiness. This article describes one way of making a fairly traditional framed ledge and braced door. Ideally the thicker stock used for the stiles and top rail should be the same thickness as the thinner stock used for the lower rails plus the thickness of the planking combined.
Take care when selecting timber for the rails since ant twist or bow here will be reflected in the geometry of the door.
For the process described here a router is required, however the remainder can be done with basic hand tools if required.


With deep "through" mortices like these it is often handy to mark out both sides of the timber.
One final tweak for a stronger mortice & tenon joint, is to cut a slight taper to the outside ends of the 'far side of each mortice.
If using a haunched tenon, then remember when chopping the matching mortice to not cut the full depth on the haunched section.
For added strength when assembled a couple of saw cuts down each tenon will allow wedges to be made and driven into the joints later. For the planks to lay evenly on the door you now need to cut a rebate with a router into the inside edge of the top rail and both stiles. You will need to tidy up the two corners on the top rail to remove the radius of the cutter and leave them square. Cut all your planks to length - so they run from the top of the rebate in the top rail to level with the bottom of the stiles.
An alternative approach to planking is to forgo cutting the rebate, and making all the door rails the same thickness as the stiles. I have had ocasion to do them severaltimes in the past and that was usually on the saw with all the wobbly balancing acts recuired.
The method seems to have atracted a lot of interest all over the world judging by the number of views on YouTube. I’m building a door for my shed (when I eventually finish building the rest of the shed!) and this was a very useful introduction into the techniques required. I should really hate you, because I didn’t think of it, but thank you for sharing your skills and for a very good video. First on the finished fitted door, we’ve all noticed some doors that are perfect in summer but start sticking as the weather changes. I am getting ready to try something similar, and I have picked up one small tip that really works well. The tip sounds like it could be good idea although you would have to to spot on with all the angles etc, if you cut the shoulder first. I have finally had to put your methods into practice for a bespoke door for my daughter’s cottage. I have a few more videos lined up but short on time to get them edited and posted, I’m still struggling to catch up on progress in the Whitby cottage. Yes the saw depth and fence needs adjusting for each cut but its the same for all edges and both sides of each panel so doing two panel so every adjustment does 16 cuts and they don’t have to accurate. If the roughing out is close to the final size it only takes one cut with router to get the finished surface, and only the router fence has to be adjusted for each cut but its the same adjustment for 16. It’s easy to square this off by removing jig and routing with panel flat on the table. I’ve watched them several times now, and am about to use your idea for an internal panel door. Hopefully their is enough information on this page to see what I came up with, essentially it’s just an angled sled.
My initial search on the internet was regarding glue types, etc to use in exterior door manufacture – especially useful in a very wet Gartmore, Scotland.
The 2 cost over ?900 Now my Youngest wants a large mirror frame making from an old wardrobe door so I thought this was a good start for inspiration. They seem to work with just about every style, from ultra modern to shabby chic to vintage industrial, and they SLIDE OPEN. John and I looked for sliding barn door hardware online, and the cheapest price we could find was about four hundred dollars - and that's just for the hardware! It doesn't require nearly as many power tools as you might think, either: just a strong drill and an angle grinder with a steel cutting disk to cut the metal rails. The original pulley pin will probably be just a hair too short, so you may need to get a slightly longer bolt with a nut to hold it in place. Make sure you drill these holes in the lower third of your bar, not directly in the middle. This is important because you want your door's wheels to be able to roll over the bolts without hitting them.
The door does overlap the edge by about four inches when it's open (the wall wasn't quite big enough for it to slide back further), but that's not an issue for us. Our stop is a simple L bracket padded with black rubber on the lower part of the wall by those two pipes. We're still not done, of course; next I'll show you our plumber's pipe shelving and the super fun and steampunky way we've devised to hide our water heater.
The upgrade from run-of-the-mill builder’s doors to solid-core Colonial-style doors in this project made a dramatic improvement in the look of a house.
I make a number of doors each year in different styles for clients whose homes range in age from brand-new to more than 80 years old. Knotty pine is inexpensive, easy to work with and the knots can be sealed to prevent them from bleeding through the painted topcoat easily by applying two coats of shellac-based primer. When I began this project, the moisture content of this material was approximately seven per cent, which is just about the perfect level for making doors and means future dimensional changes of the frame should be minimal. Sign me up for free emails from Fine Homebuilding with the latest news, tips, and techniques. This type of door construction is ideal for large heavy doors such as garage or barn doors, and can also be adapted for some designs of gate. Three different sizes will be required; A full thickness timber for the top rail and both stiles.
In some cases buying timber oversize and then machining it accurately yourself can be preferable.


A chisel morticing machine will make the job much quicker, and a chop saw or sliding mitre saw will make cutting all the stock square quick and easy.
Then cut the top rail, and the two lower rails to the full width of the door (do not cut them shorter to fit between the stiles, since you will need the extra length for the full depth tenons). Obviously powered chisel morticing machine is ideal if you have access to one, however the traditional hand tool approach is also fine.
This allows space for the planking to sail past them while still remaining within the profile of the door.
It is really satisfying to know that working from a little workshop, making do with the tools available, someone like me can come up with something simple that solves a problem. The mortise and tennons actually get tighter as the wood swells so the structure should still be sound.
I use a cone shaped stone in a drill to sharpen them on the inside then a couple of swipes with a fine diamond card on the flats. The headcam was a lash up using DV hand cam mounted on a open face motorbike helmet counterbalanced with some lead on the back.
I can understand the roughing out, but how did you finish them off to get the crisp details such as the small 90 degree angle on the very top to where the angle starts?
If it hasn’t been roughed out first on the table saw all the material can be taken off in stages by raising the router cutter.
I spotted Geocel in your films but thought a small bit of chat about which glues to use or a short film on adhesives might be a good one. What I wondered was how you made the glazing beads was this done on a single router pass or did you need to use a numebr of routers as with the panels.
That bit's not quite finished yet, though, so believe me when I say I'm probably WAY more excited to see this than you guys are. While not an entry level carpentry job, it is one well within most peoples reach if taken carefully. A wider and thinner stock for the lower rails and braces, and then finally some suitable planking to provide the door cover (traditionally T&G or "matching" is used here). Make sure the rails are cut square, as this will have an effect on the flatness of the finished door.
Routing is an option on smaller stiles, but may be tricky on larger work due to the depth of mortice required.
Since this will go right at the top of the frame, and we don't want the ends of the stile to split, it is usual to make this tenon less than the maximum height - typically leaving an inch or so if wood at the top of the stile over the matching mortice. As a result the tenons on the ends of these rails will be cut flush (or close) to one side. The rebate depth should be down to the level of the thinner stock used for the lower rails and braces. If the door is not an exact multiple of planks wide, then trim the side of both the edge panels to match.
This makes for a slightly heavier and thicker overall construction, that is not as weather resistant - however its ok for interior doors, and also quicker and simpler to make.
For a long lasting door the trick is to make sure the joint surfaces are good and tight together to start with then well glued and clamped in compression this should then restrain the swelling at the joint. But in brief the timber is good quality pine, yes other timbers can be used don’t use anything of lower quality but you could step up all the way to oak if you wanted. I am also making mine out of redwood and the timber cost ?55, which is a damn sight cheaper than having one made! Did you have to reset your table saw and get this cuts spot on for each panel for both depth and in and out? Between the steel bar and the anchor is a half-inch steel tube, cut to about two inches in length. An improvement is to in addition put a haunch on this tenon to maximise the strength of the tenon without risk of weakening the stile too much.
So as not to weaken the stile too much by having a long morticed section, a central haunch can be included in these tenons to retain some extra strength in the stile.
You made it clear with the raised panels but you didn’t say anything about the frame. Please walk us through that process as this is very important to these panels looking like you did without a standardized cutter to do it for you. You can tweak this while the glue is wet by lifting and dropping the door on one corner as required. Don't fit the boards too tightly together since you want to allow for some movement due to humidity changes. If you find it difficult to get it to "stay" where you want it, then slacken off the cramps, and apply them at a angle across the frame - this will have the effect of pulling it in the direction you want. Fix the planks with nails or screws in the middle of each board into each of the rails and the braces.
If you assemble the door flat on the ground, then you can also add some weights to make sure it stays flat.
This should allow the wood to "move" and the tongue of each board will simply move in or out of its groove without opening up a visible gap. What would you consider to be a reasonable price to get a chisel that will do more between sharpwnings?
For high quality work, you might also consider counter boring each screw hole and finishing with a matching wood plug.



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