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So with the weather still snowy and cold over the weekend, and no ability to work on the chicken coop or recycled greenhouse project – it was time to cure the winter blahs with a building project!
Since this was built for a king sized bed – we built it as two separate door frames and then attached them together once in the bedroom. We cut all of our pieces to length to start, including the cured cuts for the top of the doors. I applied glue to all of the joints and clamped them together while nailing on the backing boards.
Next, we flipped it around, and added a couple of 2 x 4″ trim boards on each side as well as the top to trim it out and give a little depth. The other night I was cleaning up my Carbon Steel Mora with a bit of fine sandpaper - the metal tends to discolour with regular rough use. Now that my brain has been fired up and I am interested in reading again, I came across some cool camping resources on Okay, following up on a recent post about emergency preparedness , picture this: your power has just gone out. Desperately Cleaning my MSR Dragonfly Stove & Then Realizing I'd Plugged It Into the Fuel Bottle Wrong To Begin With. So there's nothing quite like the feeling you get when a package arrives for you in the post box. And yes, as the garage became a temporary workshop, sadly Mary’s vehicle was once again the victim and banished to the driveway. Scrap wood is actually a great choice, even if it is nicked up – adding a rustic feel to the finished piece. Name Mail (will not be published) Website Facebook Discussions on Nook And Sea Diy Wood Pallet For Headboard With Natural Style Of Interior BedroomJoin the discussion on this Nook And Sea Diy Wood Pallet For Headboard With Natural Style Of Interior Bedroom using your faceb??k account below.All contents published under GNU General Public License. It is a documentary about Richard Proenneke, who built his own cabin in the wilderness near Twin Lakes starting in 1968, in what is now Lake Clark National Park & Preserve in Alaska.

Ours is a combination of both, along with some salvaged barn hardware saved when we deconstructed two old barns.
This way, not only does it provide shade but there is air flow to provide cooling during the hot Texas summer months.
The interior is insulated with spray foam and walled with sustainable bamboo plywood (ditto the floors).
Fell them in early winter as cool temperatures allow for slower drying periods, which reduces cracking and splitting, plus it is easier to haul the logs out of the woods over snowy terrain.Season your logs - air-dry the logs for one to two years-the longer the better. Logs should be stacked off the ground with stickers-smaller diameter logs-placed between the courses. You should also partially peel off the bark using a draw knife before the logs are stacked.
Many pioneer cabins were built without foundations because they were constructed in haste or meant to be temporary shelter. Stone foundations traditional, but block and concrete walls are as good, or better, and they require less work. Then bore holes in the sill logs to accommodate the anchor bolts and install sill sealer or a termite shield according to the local building code. Drive 60d nails through the top of the tenon and into the mortise to complete the joint.In a similar manner, hew or cut flat the top of the joists and install them between the girder and sill logs so they are flush with the top of the girder.
Also, a V-shaped groove is cut down the length of each log bottom so the entire length can sit flush on the log below.Although this method is slower than others, the corner joints are self-draining-water running down the outside of the house hits the log tops and runs off, instead of being trapped in the notch.
Then secure the log with a log dog as shown in the drawing.Scribe the shape of the lower, log onto the uncut log using compass dividers with a pencil or marking crayon inserted in one leg. Rough-cut the notch with a chain saw, then finish it with a shallowsweep, long-handled gouge.Reposition the log, allowing the notch to seat. Then scribe the full length of the underside of the log running the blank leg of the dividers along the top of the lower log.

Remove the waste, then roll the log back into position and rescribe the corner notch as well as the log end extending past the notch. This tool yields a concave groove that is tighter and more attractive at the exposed log ends.Reposition the log, then pick up one end and drop it into place.
This is called "thumping" and it will leave compression marks on the parts of the log that still need trimming.
Make any necessary adjustments, then pack fiberglass insulation into the groove and roll the log into place. The fiberglass will act as a sort of "internal chinking."With the notching complete, bore a 2-in. Brace the logs on both sides.Of course, if your cabin is larger than the one shown here, you'll have several interior partitions. These can either be made with logs notched into the outside walls or with framed walls later on. Notching the logs is preferred because it yields the same interior finish on all walls and strengthens the structure.When the logs reach the top of your planned window and door openings, brace the walls and cut out all the openings at once.
Then cut a groove, as shown, in the log ends on both sides for a permanent stiffening spline. The top wall log is called the plate log and it should be pegged at least every 4 ft.The roof on the cabin shown is a combination of purlin and rafter construction to give an idea of what's involved with both. The spaces around the jambs should be chinked with okum (hemp and pine tar).Wash the logs with detergent to remove any dirt, and then with a solution of two parts household bleach to one part water to lift out any stains. Then apply a mixture of one part linseed oil to five parts turpentine to the outside of the logs.

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