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When I was blogging about building the chair, readers asked for information about the upholstery.
In google warehouse did have a morris chair from back in the year 2000 or 2001 forgot, not as nice as Mr.
Christopher Schwarz has helped many of us solve some pretty frustrating problems over the years. This chair and ottoman was custom made of quartersawn white oak to exacting standards for a customer in California. A good book, a warm light, and a comfortable reclining chair–what more could youask for?
For inspiration, I turned to a famous chair named after William  Morris, a mid-19th century English artist whose back-to-the-basics philosophy influenced a later generation of Arts and Crafts artisans. I’ve modernized the chair by lightening its lines, adding some curves, and using cherry, rather than oak. Make the chair’s arms (J, see Cutting List, page 69) by bending and gluing thin laminations.
Even up one side of the arm using the jointer, then rip it to width using the bandsaw (Photo 7). The legs and rails for the chair and ottoman are very similar, so if you’re going to build the ottoman, make its pieces along with the chair. TIP: When you select wood for the rails, note that the top edges of all the rails show in the finished pieces. American Woodworker magazine was acquired by F+W Media (parent company of Popular Woodworking) in 2014. You must have JavaScript enabled in your browser to utilize the functionality of this website. We're looking for people who share our passion, who want to learn and contribute to a growing, thriving woodworking community.
The cover project for the April 2011 issue of Popular Woodworking Magazine will likely stay a favorite for a long, long time.
I found a good local upholsterer, and he shared his patterns and techniques for making the seat and back cushions.


For a woodworker like me, it would also be the satisfaction ofmaking that chair in my shop. Note that the top ends of the chair’s legs are angled to accommodate the curved arms. B and H).You can use a plunge router, the Festool Domino, Leigh FMT, or a dedicated horizontalrouting machine such as the JDS Multi-Router, which I prefer for its ease of setup and operation (Photo 10). Begin building the chair by making the arms, which are composed of six laminations glued over a stiff, curved form.
Place the laminations on the bending form, cover them with paper to absorb any glue squeeze-out, and slide the assembly inside a vacuum-veneering bag. Visually, this chair invites you to sit down and relax – a result of the sloping arms and side rails, the warmth and color of the quartersawn white oak and the upholstered seat and back. If you’re a woodworker who finds joy and inspiration in learning and sharing tips, techniques and woodworking expertise, then join us! Other manufacturers soon adopted the style, particularly Gustav Stickley, who transformed it into an icon of early 20th century American design.
This sounds like a high-tech piece of equipment, but it’s readily accessible for small shops or individual artisans, the very people Morris and Stickley held in such high regard.
Either way, you’ll need to build a stiff, curved form in the shape of the curve you want. This glue is specially formulated for lamination work: it has a long open time, can bridge small gaps, and forms a very rigid glue line. You may laminate each slat individually or make wider blanks and rip them into individual slats later.
Build the seat’s frame (P, Q) a little oversize, then saw or joint it to fit inside the chair. Atmospheric pressure compresses the bag and laminations over the bending form, creating the curved arm. The JDS Multi-Router, with its sliding table and horizontally mounted router, is perfect for mortising both rails and legs.
Mark the tenons using an angled guide piece, then cut them so the arm slidesstraight down onto the leg.


Make a new bending form for the slats, and use it for support when you cut the slats to length.
The joint between the cap piece and rail will be hidden by grooves you’ll make later. Cut the curves using a bandsaw and smooth the surfaces using a drum sander, oscillating spindle sander, or a round-bottom spokeshave. Bandsaw the profile on the back ends (don’t forget that the two arms are mirror images!). Gus knew what he was doing, it’s one of the best looking and best sitting chairs ever made.
Plane the boards between cuts so that the face that rides against your saw’s fence is always smooth. Transfer the curve of the arm to the legs, then draw a straight line on the legs, tangent to the curve. Clamp the stiles to a board when you glue the back in order to keep the assembly flat (Photo 15). I tried to make as accurate a reproduction as I could, and the challenges of building it without cutting corners or looking for an easy way out were worth it. Begin building the form by making a series of identical curved support pieces (use one as a router template for the others).
Once all the air has been removed from the bag, and the laminations fully bent, you can walk away (Photo 6). Mount the dowel slice to a board using double-faced tape, then drill a hole in its center using a brad-point bit (a Forstner bit may split the spacer).
Glue and pin-nail these to a base, then attach end pieces to ensure the support pieces stay upright (Photo 1). Once the glue is dry, open the bag, remove the form, and scrape off the excess glue from the laminations.



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