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You must have JavaScript enabled in your browser to utilize the functionality of this website. A must for every shop with space limitations, this project is an outfeed table for your saw that transforms into a low-height assembly table for your larger projects. Starting with one master technique, you can build three classic tables that look great in almost any room of the house. With one router bit and a simple setup, you can make building a strong drawer a whole lot easier.
My solution was to build a table that could easily be removed when the saw needed to be stored, as you can see in the photo at right.
What makes this work are a pair of heavy-duty, slides that are screwed to the sides of the saw, as shown in the exploded view below. The table is made from 3A" melamine-covered particleboard cut to the same width as the saw table. To keep the table from sliding around, I screwed three brackets to the bottom of the table, as shown in Fig. Now when I want to move the saw out of the way, all I have to do is lift off the tabletop and slide in the frame. Andy Pollock of Northampton, MA screwed a piece of aluminum angle to his workbench to provide a place to wipe off putty knives. Trimming solid wood edg- To use it, attach the ing flush with a plywood panel can be a pain.
The fence is made from a piece of plywood with a notch cut in one edge to fit around a flush trim bit, as in Fig 1. If you have an original shop tip or woodworking technique, we would like to hear from you and consider publishing your tip in one or more of our print or electronic publications. Just write down your tip and mail it to us: Woodsmith, Tips and Techniques, 2200 Grand Avenue, Des Moines, Iowa 50312.

Please include your full name, address, and daytime telephone number so that we can contact you in case we have any questions. To get around this problem, I mounted the hold-down to a hardwood block and clamped it in place in the bench vise. The problem is it's too difficult to control the router freehand and get a consistent depth, perfect shapes, and a smooth, even surface.
The way a template works is simple: you start by cutting out the shape of your final product in a piece of MDF (the template).
For the inside routing needed for the boxes, I used a tray bit (see the box on the opposite page). I have been looking at the Steel City 35618 and the copy sold at Harbor freight (probably from same factory). DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. Greg, if you got to my Contractor Saw to Cabinet Saw Conversion project you’ll see more pictures of the rolling cabinet. You people want to drool take a look at The Ultimate Table Saw Cabinet by Rock-n H Woodshop this will make you salivate. Couldn't help but notice the dent on the top of the motor where it would just touch the table----would you tell us the story about that? Travis, I didn't keep track of how much it cost to build the table, but probably not as much as you think.
One thing I might mention to others who are thinking of making one of these - it's not really necessary to make the miter slots perfectly aligned with the table saw slots. I'm not being critical - just thought I would point that out as a consideration for others who might make one of these. A pair of 3A"-wide grooves cut in the top match the miter slots to allow the miter gauge to slide past the blade.

It can be damaging to electronics, like the battery recharging stations for many power tools.
The problem is the stem of the hold-down sticks down so far that it would run into the cabinet under my workbench.
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After considerable research on the Internet, I found it necessary to use the design-as-you-go method. The design is perfectly suited for contractor's saws with motors that extend behind the base. A bearing on the router bit follows the edge of the template as it carves out the workpiece. I start with a paper pattern showing the template layout The pattern is then glued to the MDF blank with spray adhesive, as in Fig. In case of trademark issues please contact the domain owner directly (contact information can be found in whois). So the template needs to be thick enough to touch the bearing for the first cuts and when the bit is lowered to its final depth. That way if I want to use the template again in the future, I can be sure I'll get the same results. Note: The radius of the corners should be equal to or greater than the radius of the bit you'll be using.
It was necessary to re-install the template and widen the slot by this amount (the thickness of a typical business card).

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