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Find hundreds of detailed woodworking plans for restoring cedar furniture to help with your furniture projects, and video instructions that walk you step-by-step through the woodworking process with detailed blueprints and plans.
Hi guys, I found this 2003 (very used) Pier I wicker chair at a garage sale and took on yet another DIY project!
Naples FL- Furniture Restoration offers the rare opportunity to properly restore and conserve your fine antiques.
Tom Johnson of Thomas Johnson Antique Furniture Restoration in Gorham, Maine performs a number of veneer - and other - repairs on this antique oak sideboard.
This article shows you how to very easily restore a nice, new luster to filthy old antique wood items and long as your wood has not peeling lamination, broken pieces or missing edges, this is all you need to make your wood look like new. Click here for instant access to 9000 woodwork plans!Find out how to make money selling furniture How to refinish wood furnitureHave you ever wondered how you can get instant access to plans for thousands of woodworking projects?
Restoring And Refinishing.I took in a desk from a customer that was faded, scratched, and had water rings in the top. Tom Johnson of Thomas Johnson Antique Furniture Restoration in Gorham, Maine restores the finish to a desk that had acquired water stains from houseplants. Have a valuable piece of old boat bright work or furniture that is broken around the hardware?
Next day, I reinforce the repaired inletting with epoxy for strength, bedding the receiver tang in the process. For a perfectly level finish, each coat of varnish is rubbed back to the grain surface of the wood. Now two years later I also got hold of a hand full of saws and I feel confident enough to start restoring them. A really ugly tenon saw from Spears and Jackson came with some planes I bought as a bonus…I never really became sure if it was a bonus or a punishment. I bought this beautiful saw from France it has been used by an old maker of frames for paintings, and judging from the screws it is an old boy. Ohhh yes and latest came this wonderful old Peugeot saw, yes we are talking the car maker!This one will be a real pearl once it has been brought back to life. First step on the restore was to test some of that wonderful rust remover slime that Andy gave me.Thank you Andy it was so kind of you to bring me this on your visit. Then a good tour with superfine steel wool and WD40 so they become clean and greased to prevent new rust. Since the one saw had been sharpened so much and I had several, I decided to shorten it down, to a little handy tool box saw.
Hope this blog can help some old wonderful saws come back to life, and that it might inspire others to restore and sharpen their own saws instead of buying modern crap saws.
I will like to thank Andy and Paul since you have both been a part of the reason why I feel now ready to start this adventure that I left waiting for me for a couple of years now. I'm a Danish architect form 1968, who have retired because of a spinal neck operation with a bad result. By subscribing to the RSS feed you will be notified when new entries are posted on this blog. When I bit the end off the saw, I thought of you shortening your old Fish to make a toolbox saw.
DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. We took a lonely little chair from someone's trash, brushed the snow off of it, brought it home, and began restoration.
In this video I am showing you how I restored and repainted it as well as made a new slip cover for the main cushion and two accent pillows!
It's a great do it yourself project and is an simple way to make an old, scratched, or beat up piece of furniture look like new again.
Another pinner says: for watermarks - mix a thick paste of olive oil and salt and rub onto the wood - leave it for about 30 minutes. Yes…my training aid today is an old walnut gunstock from 1936, but these objects are subjects of close inspection by discriminating clients, and require a degree of precision useful for demonstration.
First, I rout the wood to receive epoxy with Dremel ball and point cutters to expose fresh wood and to provide enough epoxy thickness to prevent chipping from recoil forces. You can see the sunlight reflecting on the residual dents remaining…those areas are buffed slightly harder and deeper than already-level finished areas on the surface with each coat.


It was here my dream of restoring some old saws started, but before this I had a long way to go with other tools. Two are with finer teeth, and two with more rough, just perfect when I will set them up later. This is now giving me the chance to spend some time on my old passion 'woodworking', and allows me to work with all the lovely tools from different cultures of this world. I’m struggling to find the time to make a saw vice and sharpen my saws at the moment. An master woodworker named Mark Stuart has put together a set of woodworking project plans that I think you should take a look at. Plus, as the techniques and materials are slightly different from other disciplines, it’s also good cross training….
Fortunately, this inletting is relatively clean and not soaked in linseed or motor oil as is common in old firearms. The finest steel wool is used again followed by a paint-store tack rag and a final buffing with a lint free cloth, with extreme care used to brush wool particles from grooves and recesses with a soft brush. How about you, did you find time to sharpen, or shall we put our heads together before this step?Jamie, yes I am, and loving every moment, is it that easy to see… lol.
I have done an awful lot of research on saw sharpening though and I shared the the best information that I have come across in CharleAuguste’s 1860 Dovetail Saw Restoration blog if you want to take a look. If it was saturated in oil, I’d have to remove that first with a slurry of Whiting (powdered chalk) and mineral spirits under a little heat to draw out the oil.
If the oil had deteriorated the inletting to the point of punky softness, I’d have to let in new wood like I’m doing at the toe chip and reinlet the stock.
This method doesn’t allow much buildup, but it fills minor pores and imperfections missed and also toughens the final surface of the finish.
Notice I have undercut the routing so no epoxy will show on the surface.I apply the thawed epoxy from yesterday to the inletting under gentle heat, then thicken the epoxy with a high-adhesive thickener and apply the thick paste……then coat the hardware to be bedded thoroughly with paste wax to act as a release agent, taking particular care to fill any holes or voids that might get epoxy extruded into them, preventing easy removal.
To minimize dust contamination, a simple, open drying box with canvas drape and light bulb can be used.
Want to achieve perfection with card scrapers on expensive and fragile, highly figured wood? Do not worry I will not look for more saws now, and if I should find one, I will sell another. I’ve really come to like these Japanese-style pull saws for flush cutting, as they have no set to the teeth that scratch adjacent surfaces.
You don’t see them, but in this finishing session I am doing 6 gunstocks at once…far beyond the capacity of my drying boxes… so I cease using machines for an hour prior to finishing and make that my last task of the day, placing a space heater directly beneath the improvised drying rack to speed them reaching the tack-free stage. To remove the bedded hardware from the freshly-cured epoxy, simply back out the screw attaching it from behind, and give the screwdriver a light hammer tap while still in the screw slot. This is satisfactory for finishes that will be rubbed out.Once I’m satisfied I have the buttstock’s stain coats thoroughly sealed…usually with two coats of these thin, finger-applied varnishes…I do the final color stage to hide any glue lines and remaining imperfections.
If I didn’t use enough wax and my hardware is hopelessly stuck, then 115 degrees or so of heat applied to the metal by a soldering iron will free it…the piece may or may not have to be rebedded afterwards, as epoxy is often very forgiving.The hardware is reattached for final filing of any repairs close to the edge to serve as an index and prevent roundovers.
This butt plate will be refinished, but to preserve a metal finish you desire to save, cover it with masking tape…or thin electrical tape as you gain skill at filing…to protect from the files. In the sunlight, I mix Raw and Burnt Umber and Burnt Sienna oil pigments to achieve an exact color match, adding a couple drops of drier as I mix. I then finish sand only the repairs with 180 grit wet-or-dry paper, dampen lightly all the new wood surfaces to raise the grain, and sand the repairs again using 220 grit. Applied sparingly and feathered with a fingertip to the freshly-rubbed finish, this hides obvious glue lines well if I feather carefully to avoid the painted-stripe look. There is a tiny gap remaining at the tip of the butt plate I’m not happy with…I can either bed that in epoxy or bend the buttplate slightly to close it. I apply too little rather than too much, and allow it to dry just as I would a finish coat.. Sometime in its past it acquired a sling swivel that will be removed, a missing chip that will be repaired, several dents, and was stripped and refinished separate from its matching walnut forearm…they are no longer the same color. As this rifle will see more hard use in its life, I choose to bed the entire butt plate and repeat the procedure I used for the receiver tang above.Now for the more difficult task of equalizing the color. The excess goes in the freezer in case another application is needed after the next finish coat.The final coats are applied and allowed to cure.


For this and other finishing inspections, sunlight is essential…note that the original finish on the forearm is age-darkened, medium-stained Black Walnut with a hint of red.
I can’t be absolutely sure, but examination of the inletting surfaces and comparing them to the forearm show the walnuts to be of the same age and probably from the same supplier…age, species and soil conditions the most important factors in matching color.
I’ll not attempt to change that color or damage its original finish base, but match it in the buttstock.
The firearm in question is one of the first of its model manufactured; has some value, and I’ll restore it…not to new condition, but to appear like a used but well-cared-for representative of its type in excellent original condition. I don’t detect any prior repairs, but for some reason the buttstock was stripped, removing color but not the grain filler, exposing a streak of sapwood along the comb, and coated with a clear finish by someone unskilled, as there are some runs. West System 5:1 boatbuilder’s epoxy when thoroughly mixed has a dab of walnut epoxy dye added. Fortunately, it was not heavily sanded.There is some surface damage to the forearm finish and a large dent, so I carefully remove only the deteriorated varnish layers to save the age patina beneath…and to remove the embedded dirt…with Formby’s Refinisher and 0000 steel wool. Never use any glue but epoxy in gunstock repairs, with perhaps the exception of using cyano acrylates for filling finish blemishes with clear material.
The piece can be used while it is curing.As this is a replication of an aged and slightly worn factory finish, I merely use fine steel wool lubricated with carnauba wax to rub out the finish. I could rub out the wear areas harder than the flat areas of the stock to replicate handling wear, but this finish base will last the life of the rifle with proper care, and a couple seasons of normal use will make it look “right” much better than I can artificially.The color match and glue line shading came out quite decently…for the price of about three hours of cumulative shop time over the course of three weeks. Cleanup is with a vinegar-dampened rag.While the breaks at the inletting cure, I attend to the remaining damage…a swivel screw hole and toe chip. Coarser abrasives and dipping are faster but will remove the grain filler I am trying to save and add a lot of additional work to the process. With a bit of time and elbow grease, I’m able to remove the poly sufficiently to take stain without damaging the filler severely. As I remove old finish, I purposely rub it into the new wood repairs to distribute the old color to the new wood as much as possible.
For this reason it is critical that the old finish not be removed until after all repairs are complete.Then I neutralize the chemicals with a wash of turps and evaluate the color match again. I quit for the day and place the leftover epoxy in the freezer to save it for use tomorrow. At any time during finishing, a light wipe of turps will allow the surface to appear as it will with the final varnish.Wiping off the turps, I then steam out the dents with a hot soldering iron pressed against a sopping-wet rag applied to the dent. I do this several times until the dents are raised as far as the steam will take them…any dents remaining will be filled with the final finish material. More dents remaining after steaming mean more coats of finish will be necessary to fill them. I could use my remaining epoxy filler for that purpose, which is far superior to the more-brittle shellac sticks, but it would still look like filler.
As I will have to cloud some grain later to hide glue lines and want to minimize any clouding, I’ll put the extra effort into the few more thin finish coats necessary to level the surface with clear material.A coat of medium walnut oil stain is applied to the sapwood areas and allowed to dry, feathering the edges with a fingertip as it sets up. I rarely use finishing materials direct from the container and prefer to mix them in clean containers with a drop of heavy metal Cobalt or Japan Drier added.
The added drier is important in the first coat of stain or varnish that has to amalgamate chemically with the surface beneath, and also in a cold shop like mine.Alcohol-based “spirit” stains and aniline dyes can also be used, and are clearer than pigmented oil stains.
I find, however, that they aren’t as easy to blend when restoring an old finish with alternating layers of varnish and stain, and they don’t hold up as well to fading from exposure to UV light.Next I even out my coat of now-dry stain with 0000 steel wool, then add a light coat of “French Red” walnut oil stain to the buttstock and apply the first light coat of tung oil varnish to the forearm. This finger-applied varnish is clear, weather resistant and does not darken in UV light…but most importantly; it is relatively soft and flexible and will not chip.
Exterior “oil” finishes like this and other polymerized tungs, “Truoil” and “Linspeed” which are linseed-based polymerized oils, are not oils at all but soft varnishes.
They wear through with hard use, but their major advantage is that they are easily renewed with a 0000 steel wool scrubbing and more topcoats, preserving the priceless age patina beneath without the necessity of ruining it with the strippers necessary for traditional resin varnishes, lacquers and polyurethanes. I touch the buttstock up in spots with both walnut and red stains, feathering carefully and evaluating in the sunlight, until I am satisfied with the color match, then I begin finish coating the buttstock in addition to the forearm.



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