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The 40″ Rigid E-Series LED Light Bar is almost a perfect fit between the factory roof rack rails as I wanted it to sit almost on the roof.
The caps were welded on the tubing on both sides and test fit to make sure the bracket holes would line up.
I used stainless steel allen button head bolts painted black to sandwich the factory rails with the brackets and the backing plates. Do you like this Customized Toyota Camry "Rowdy Edition" (2012 Toyota Racing Dream Build Challenge) picture? Toyota may expand its production capacity in Russia through the establishment of a joint venture with Japan’s Mitsui Corp.
Sollers’ existing factory in Vladivostok will be upgraded at a cost of several billion yen (tens of millions of dollars), so that it can assemble some 30,000 Toyota vehicles annually. Toyota will become the first Japanese carmaker to assemble cars in Russia’s Far East. That is why I welded the caps on both sides of a piece of tubing even though the actual piece of tubing would be much smaller.


I removed the rails and put them on my work bench and determined where the holes needed to be on the bracket. I used the rivets as holders so I could get the measurements to make the two backing plates for each side. If you have the factory roof rails, you will understand that prior to doing this I had to make some complex bends in the brackets so that they conformed to the rails perfectly. After sliding the tubing into the holes, I cut out of the brackets I measured side to side to ensure the light was centered. I cut a small slot at the base of the factory rails so I could slide the rigid harness up to the larger hole I drilled on the side of the rail.
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Then, I used a hole saw to cut out the hole for the tubing that would actually hold the light bar. That way the stud would slid through the pilot hole, and I could stick a socket down the tubing to tighten the nut on the Rigid light stud.


The reason I used two backing plates as that there is a plastic rib inside the rail that I did not want to remove. Otherwise, if I did not do this, I am fairly certain the factory rails would crack when tightening the bolts down. As for running the harness inside, I drilled a hole in the roof and used a compression grommet along with RTV.
Then, I ran the wire down the pillar separating the front and back seat, along the floor and out through the firewall of the truck to my distribution panel.



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