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Lower the in-feed and out-feed table adjustment screws so that the tables are below the center (cutter) table.
Raise the cutter head assembly and rotate the head (carefully) so that no blades are hanging below the cutter head unit.
Lower the cutter head assembly until the pinch rollers hold the straight edge firmly in place. Move the straight edge to each side of the table and check that the in-feed and out-feed tables still contact the straight edge.
There have been many theories of whether to use a Wood Planer or a Jointer to flatten a board. Generally, when a cupped board runs through a thickness planer, the rollers tend to flatten the board.
If you’re lucky enough to have access to a wide-belt sanding machine, you can get the finish-sanding done there. To minimize grain interruption at the joint, it’s important to avoid cutting through cathedral patterns. American Woodworker magazine was acquired by F+W Media (parent company of Popular Woodworking) in 2014.
Christopher Schwarz has helped many of us solve some pretty frustrating problems over the years.
Daily woodworking tips to improve your accuracy, better organize your shop, make your tools work harder, and help you work safer. Take shallow cuts (1?64″) when planing thin stock, so you don’t accidentally shatter the workpiece.

This photo shows the twisted piece screwed at ita€™s the ends to a board, the twist away from the board being supported by a fine wedge. COOKIES - Like virtually all websites this site uses cookies by viewing on the site you agree to this as detailed in Privacy Policy if you dont like it then leave!
Disclaimer - All info given on this site is how I've done stuff, don't do stuff like this unless you are sure you, your property and others are safe.
Now you have three points of contact to the board, the cutter table, the pinch roller, and the END of the in-feed or out-feed table. Fasten a stop at the front of the sled to keep the rollers from pulling the board through without the sled. Stop back daily for more woodworking tips from the editors at WOOD magazine and our enthusiastic readers.
When that side is flat, take it off the assembly, flip it over and send the other side through the thicknesser (jointer). That’s because removing wood releases tension, causing the board to slightly change its original shape. Try this technique instead: Joint an edge of the board and then rip it on the bandsaw (Photo 6). When the two end sticks are parallel, run a third stick back and forth between the two to check for high areas in the middle. It’s just like cutting a giant rabbet: The uncut portion rides over the rabbeting ledge on your jointer.
Leave the board a little thick so it can be planed to finish thickness after the glue dries.

And I avoid the hassle of trying to match boards for a uniform, pleasing appearance.I used to shy away from these beautiful wide boards because I thought I needed an aircraft carrier-sized jointer to flatten them. Shim under the high spots to prevent the planer rollers from flattening out the board before it’s cut. After you joint one side, remove the board from the sled and plane the second side normally.
Instead, place a 3′-long piece of melamine through the planer, and clamp it to the infeed and outfeed tables.
I'll not object if it's attributed with a "follow" link directly back to this site and it's used for non commercial purposes. Over the years, I’ve learned a few tricks that allow me to take advantage of what a wide board has to offer—even in a small shop. You’ll find it’s best to position a cupped board concave side up because it’s easier to shim around the perimeter than the middle of a board.
Mark all four edges of a wide board with a marking gauge to indicate its high spots (Photo 1).

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