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Once you establish your design and procedures, it’s pretty much rinse and repeat after that; all joints are installed the same way. But, if you just know the basics (do’s and don’ts, how to size the ducts and the collector), you pretty much can buy the pieces you need and put it together like Legos and be done. You also don’t have to do it all at once; of course design for the whole shop first but you can always run enough duct to catch a few important machines and do the rest as you have time. Having a central dust collector in one place (or two, one for each side of a larger shop) is a much better solution than either using a shop vac rigged with a mini-cyclone or bucket separator trying to mimic a full sized collector, or an undersized 1HP collector rolled from tool to tool. There’s a reason professional shops have a centralized dust collector system; it’s much more convenient and efficient, and safer for those doing the woodworking. However, it is often argued that in a typical small shop, the relatively small amount of dust isn’t much of a danger.  Some people use a PVC duct system combined with grounding wire routed alongside (coiled outside and run inside)  the piping to help mitigate any static electricity build-up.
For me, while it may be safe to use PVC, I’d rather just use sheet metal ductwork and not worry about it.  The reason people are tempted to use PVC is that it’s easy to deal with (just like sprinkler pipe but on a larger scale), the piping is smooth on the inside surface, and it’s pretty cheap to buy. I’ve found, however, that sheet metal ductwork is fairly simple to install (if you can figure out how to build furniture you totally can learn this), and not really that bad expense-wise.  You can design the whole thing and install sections at a time as funds allow. Choose the right fittings for more airflow; there are a lot of restrictions already in a dust collection system so why make it worse by choosing the cheap ones? I like to just start at a typical tool, and work my way back to the dust collector and list the items I’ll need.
6 duct diameters worth of straight duct directly into your collector’s fan intake to reduce “system effect” pressure losses (basically your goal is 6 duct diameters worth of duct length, i.e.
These crimpers allow you to fit the ducts together; just remember to point the crimped end toward the airflow. By diagramming it out, even if it’s just a hand-sketch, will help you count the # of each component you need.
Each of the above components have several options associated with them.  I’ll break down the most common choices available, and explain my choices. Bridging hose clamps are better than conventional ones; however these clamps from Rockler work on right-hand swirled flex. I buy the longitudinal seamed straight duct that snaps together, and just seal the seam with duct mastic. I use foil tape to cover seams (usually the ones I may want to disassemble in the future), blastgate seams, and cleanouts. I put some of this on each joint, and then brush it into all the crevices, then do a final coat.
I use wye-fittings for all branches from the main; I added a few for future tools I plan to buy. You can really ease up the resistance to airflow by making the turns more “sweeping” and gentle.  Less static pressure loss means more CFM at the tool, which is critical for fine dust extraction. Die-stamped elbows are smooth inside, but you’re locked into an exactly 90 degree turn.  Inevitably your walls aren’t plumb or square so having some leeway (adjustability) is nice. Plus, with some machine drops or other offsets you need to create, the adjustability of a 4-gore or 5-gore elbow is necessary.  These are just segmented elbows that rotate relative to each other to make angles other than 90 deg,, and allow you to make the inlet and outlet at odd non-perpendicular planes.
So once you’ve bought all the “Legos”, it’ll probably take an afternoon’s worth of time to put it all together.
By using long-radius elbows, you give the air a gentle sweep to travel in, reducing static pressure (resistance to airflow), and you get more airflow (CFM) out of it.
While designing your dust collection system, you should make the above choices so you account for them in how everything fits together.  By drawing your ductwork to scale, it’ll give you an idea of how many feet of straight duct you’ll need.
Your goal should be to minimize static pressure losses in the system and maximize the CFM available at each tool, all while maintaining the minimum recommended velocities in the ductwork.
Configuration for fitting ductwork together; all you need is some duct crimpers and self-tapping sheet metal screws.
However, now I’m willing to buy some components online so that I get exactly what I need, and buy the readily available parts at the home center. Place the rigid sheet metal duct drop with its blastgate as close to the machine as you can without the flex hose interfering with the infeed or outfeed. Minimum 3 screws per duct joint is needed to prevent it from coming apart; I use 4 at joints under higher stress such as flex hose branches. Rolls of sheet metal hanger strapping is the most convenient way to suspend the ductwork, although they do sell specialty hangers so you can better restrain duct drops.  Brace ducts by crossing the straps at angles. Lay out the pieces on the floor to prepare sub-assemblies.  Put together as many parts on the ground as you can, then loosely suspend those subassemblies so they can be connected when you’re on the ladder.
Buy like 6 feet of extra straight duct; if you buy the snaplock type don’t assemble the seam so you can return it if you don’t need it afterall.
Pre-seal your wye fittings and straight duct while on the bench.  For elbows, the individual joints move around a lot so seal those when finally installed.
Once you do the hard work of design and gathering all the parts, the installation itself is actually fun and not bad at all.
You can either buy rolls of sheet metal strapping with holes every inch or so, or you can buy special duct hangers from your home center.


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Enter your name and email below to get your free copy of this organized and detailed checklist to jump-start your woodshop design today! Also, you’ll get weekly WoodChip Tips, design ideas, free useful downloads, free mini-courses, and other cool stuff in The Other Side of Zero newsletter! How I went from a cluttered and disorganized shop to a super-productive layout with a convenient dust collection and electrical set-up. IHeart Organizing: DIY Gift Wrap Organization Station - I am crazy jealous and in love with this gift wrapping station. DIY coffee table ottoman inspired by an ottoman from Layla Grayce that retails for over $1200. Improvise a low-cost drum sander using your drill press and a custom sanding table with dust collection. Start this cabinet by making four simple face frames that form the foundation of the project.
After the four individual frames are complete, sand the inside and outside surfaces flat and smooth, then get out your router. Start by gluing and clamping the front edge of one side frame to the back outside edge of the front frame. The unique diamond design on these door panels is a distinctive feature of early French-Canadian furniture. Routing the distinctive beaded grooves comes next, and this is where the fun really begins. To rout the bead on the side panels, I used a handheld router following a plywood straightedge clamped in place as a guide. Routing the diagonal beads and grooves of the door panel is a slightly different process, although you still use the same set-up and method. The main challenge you face now is planing and sanding the end-grain edges of the applique without chipping the wood along the points of the triangles. After shaping all the parts, switch from your coarse sanding block to a fine-grit block when the profile looks good, then finish-sand all parts. French settlers often painted their furniture to brighten up the home and escape the monotony of blonde wood throughout the house. I started with a wash coat of one part Classic Oak Polyshades and one part golden oak stain. Complete your cabinet by attaching the door with some reproduction or antique-style hinges and a door knob.
Whether you need new kitchen cabinets or more storage for your workshop, the basics of cabinetry design remain the same. This model will be 48-inches wide, 24-inches tall (with a center and bottom shelf) and 18-inches deep. A laminated maple top, bench dogs, and a bench vise make this a fitting centerpiece for any home workshop. Purchase the full Simple-to-Build Workbench Woodworking Plan, including detailed diagrams and complete material list.
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It gets rid of any fears of static electrical dust fire fears, and I think looks cooler too. Plus, it’s not getting close enough to the recommended CFM because of the higher static pressure the smaller diameter flex hose has. All you have to do is crimp one end, connect to the right fittings with sheet metal screws, and seal the seams with duct mastic.
I use these for portions of the ductwork under higher stress, such as where flex hose yanks on the drops when the machine is moved around.
Cut the front and back stiles, the side stiles, and the top and bottom rails to size, then mark each piece to indicate its location and outside surfaces.
Cut the parts to size, then join two long and short frame members, using two #8 x 2″ screws into each overlapped corner. Allow these parts to dry, then position and clamp the two inner frames to the inside of the front-side assembly.
Rout a profile along the front and side edges before sanding the surface smooth with 120-grit paper.


I’ll admit that these are a lot of work to make-you shape them with a hand plane and sanding block-but the effect is really spectacular. As you select your pieces, remember that the grain direction of the applique you add must be the same as the underlying wood of the panels.
It’s very fragile here, and to get around this snag I recommend shaping the end-grain edges first, before cutting the parts to shape from your planks. This combination doesn’t allow the finish to penetrate too quickly, preventing blotching. Set the back and side panels into their rabbets from the inside, and then secure them with nylon clips. Most units consist of little more than a well-built plywood box, called a carcase, that is then trimmed with doors or wood trim appropriate for the application. Use your table saw or a circular saw to rip the cabinetry shelves to the correct widths and lengths.
On kitchen units, you'll likely want the sanded side out, whereas in the case of more utilitarian models, particularly when they will be installed one against another, you may want the sanded side in. You'll be cutting two 18-inch dadoes and one rabbet in each side (perpendicular to the 24-inch edge). Then, set the fence on the table saw to 18-inches from the opposite side of the dado set (as in the previous step). Presently there really just isn’t severalfactor that seems very just like Producing the task as nicely as viewing this to conclusion.
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Here's a practical storage building that might be just what you need in your backyard. While you work, keep everything organized by frame, and don’t forget to cut curves into the bottom inside corner of the back and front leg parts.
The bottom frame should be flush with the bottom rails; the top frame should be flush with the front and side top edges. On the door panel only, mark an X pattern diagonally where previous pencil lines intersect at the corners. The remaining edges can then be shaped after cutting, without much fear of chipping a corner. Prepare it from the grid diagram on page 33, then regularly check it against the edge you’re working on for reference. We relied on inexpensive lumberyard stock and rugged mortise-and-tenon joinery to construct the base. For a lot of, what this indicates is piece of art an attractive household portrait as nicely as with regard to other men and women this indicates lastly completing their incredibly own fairly first book. Over 1500 garage, barn, storage building and shop plans with professional engineering and complete materials lists. Choose from many styles of garage plans with a workshop at House Plans and More where you are sure to find the perfect garage plan. Centre the top on the cabinet, back edge flush with the cabinet back, then secure the top with metal fasteners from inside.
Cut the shelf now, then glue and clamp a solid pine edge strip on the front to cap the raw plywood edge.
On the side panels, locate the centre point of each line, then draw the large diamond-shaped outline onto both panels. What you’re aiming for is a large, diamond-shaped applique at the centre of both side panels, flanked by four triangular pieces at the corners. However, with regard to a large number of several years, folks possess considered wooden to think about Suggestions as well as ensure they are actual. Though the package is addressed primarily to knowledgeable carpenters, it may be utilized by less skilled folks, as effectively.
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Next, add the opposite side frame to the front and inner frames, and, finally, add the back frame to the side back edges and the inner frames. However, for the method we'll be using for hanging our unit, this rabbet will not be necessary. The woodworking plans differ from simple to medium and sophisticated, so buyers can boost their abilities by just creating the incorporated schemes.There are several other bonuses incorporated in the initial package for purchasers who will be the very first to spot their orders. The second bonus is a CD containing 150 premium woodworking videos for a much better understanding of the directions.



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