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This classic double settee plan features contoured seats and back splats, inviting you to settle in for a long and comfortable sit. To build this plan you'll have to be comfortable with laying out curves – both symmetrical and irregular – as well as getting different contours and angles to match with each other. Cut all parts to size, referring to detail illustrations for laying out curved, tapered and otherwise shaped pieces.
For this project, it is recommended that you do a dry assembly first to make sure everything fits and lines up. Measure and mark the center points of the front rail (D), rear cross member (E) and seat back support (F) after they have been cut and shaped to size. Mark the center of the center table top slat (J) and line it up with the center of seat back support, keeping back edges flush. After cutting the tapers on splats (L), lay two of them on a flat surface with their square edges (not the tapered ones) together and their bottoms flush.
Place braces (P) where they will go, trace their outline against the underside of armrests and outside face of front legs and drill pilot holes within that outline. With its longer days and warmer weather, springtime is the right time to start improving your backyard oasis. This sturdy garden bench is so simple to build you can have it completed in less than a day – including sanding and finishing.
Simple joinery, a classic appearance and no visible fasteners are the features of this handy little cocktail table. Perfect for a patio, deck or yard, you can tend a little patch of vegetables just outside your door.
Add a bit of pizzazz to your home's exterior andbrighten your own view from inside the house with this classic window box design. Featuring simple joinery reinforced with waterproof glue, exterior grade screws and galvanized finish nails, this planter can be built in a few hours and will provide years of attractive use.
Add some color to your home's exterior and brighten your view from inside the house with this simple, classic window box design.
Here we use a simple pair of interlocking beveled cleats to attach the box directly to the house.
Attach the side panels (C) to the back panel (B) with finish nails and glue, keeping the ends flush with the cleat and blocking.
If using a hammer and finish nails to attach pieces, you will have to drill pilot holes so as not to split the wood. Lay out and mark the locations for the bottom supports (G) on the inside bottom of the back and front panels. Set the back trim (E) and side trim (F) pieces in place, keeping the back trim and ends of the side trim flush with the back of the hanging cleat, and the side trim overhanging evenly (approx. Apply a waterproofing finish to all exposed surfaces according to manufacturer instructions.
It can be located anywhere on your deck or in your yard, and is the perfect size for growing a single tomato plant or a few small patches of herbs.

The simplicity of this plan means you can build a set of two, three or more planter boxes in a day or weekend. Cut the sides (A and B), legs (C), cleats (D) and corner trim (F) according to the dimensions on the cut list. Due to natural variances in lumber dimensions, measure and cut parts (G) and (H) after assembly of the rest of the box.
Glue and screw cleats (D) to the inside of each side panel, keeping the bottom of the cleat roughly even with the bottom edge of the side panel. Place 2 of the bottom pieces (E) inside the box on top of the cleats and mark where to notch for the legs. It is not necessary to attach the bottom boards to the cleats, but you may do so if you choose. Attach corner trim pieces with glue and finish nails, keeping the tops flush with the box assembly.
Measure the distance between the 2 bottom pieces, rip the third piece to that width, and put it in place.
Measure from outside corner to outside corner along the top of the box to get your length for top trim pieces (long point to long point of your miter cuts). You may want to place a piece of landscape fabric in the bottom of your planter, but it is not necessary. The simple construction of this outdoor activity makes it an ideal weekend or even after-work project. The set features handle cutouts so you can easily carry both boards to wherever you choose to play. Before you get started, please read our info on ® Safely">safety, fasteners and building tips.
The handy center table is perfect for a fruit bowl and drinks to help you enjoy a warm summer evening. But fear not, as all this project takes is a little patience and careful cutting and you'll soon have a piece of outdoor furniture you'll be proud of for years. When cutting rear legs (A) and center supports (B), lay out and cut one rear leg and use that as a pattern to lay out the other rear leg and the seat curve portion of the center support.
Then disassemble, sand smooth, apply finish and reassemble the chair with glue and appropriate fasteners. Keep the back edge of the temporary brace 24" from the front edge of the front leg and make sure the armrests (K) are sitting level on them.
Place two more splats on either side of these with straight edges against tapered edges for a total of six splats. Place the rear seat slat last, making sure the curve of the rear slat fits the curve of the splats. Then disassemble, sand all surfaces smooth, apply waterproofing finish according to manufacturer instructions and reassemble with glue and screws. These YellaWood® projects are easy to build (most are a half-day) and will add beauty and value to your outdoor life.

Easy to build, you could make several of these in one weekend for a complete set to complement your outdoor seating. You can also grow herbs or flowers, or you can place them around your home to use as landscape beds. Built to accommodate most common flower and plant containers, you can build several boxes in one day using this simple design – and dress up as many windows as you wish.
The plan can easily be modified and you can build a bigger box to house several plants or customize it to fit a specific space in which you want to place it. Notching the 4 x 4 posts for the side pieces and using 2 x 10 stock for corner braces, this box will handle all the rough and tumble play youngsters can dish out. But you can use rugged metal brackets or adjust the plan to accommodate nearly any hanging apparatus you like best. If you want to hang it permanently, drive additional screws through the inside of the back panel, the cleats and blocking and into your home’s siding. You can even bring it indoors during colder months and enjoy fresh-grown herbs or vegetables year round. You can use them as enclosures for potted plants or grow any other type of flower, vegetable, fruit or herb you like.
Clamp in place and attach with 3" screws through the face of the front leg and into the edge of the front rail. Place rear cross member (E) on top of the rear legs, keeping outside edges flush and lining up the bottom edge of the cross member with the point at which you began the curved line on the back of the rear legs (A). Square a line along the bottom to align with the bottoms of the middle two splats, and then measure and lay out the curved top (see splat detail illustration). Customize as you like – the concepts and details are the same; the only thing you have to change is the measurements of your side pieces.
Heavy duty landscape fabric on the bottom allows water to drain out and keeps grass and weeds from creeping in. You can also play around with the front piece and cut a more decorative profile to suit your home's architectural theme. One tip if you do decide to bring it indoors – place it on a plastic tray or boot mat to catch any water that may drip down through the weep holes, which are necessary to drain standing water from any planter.
Clamp a scrap piece of lumber under the rear cross member (E) and set the bottom of the splats on that scrap. Clamp in place and drive 3" screws through the center supports into table uprights (G).

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