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GOFAR Services, LLC - Appliance Repair Houston, TX - Chapter 4COMPRESSOR IS RUNNINGBUT REFRIGERATOR IS NOT COLDCOMPRESSOR IS RUNNING BUT REFRIGERATOR IS NOT COLDBefore you perform any of the other tests in this chapter, make sure that the compressor is running. To be honest, even a professional won’t know the answer to this question without an inspection and some troubleshooting.
In this case, you’ll need to hire a technician to inspect the unit and clean your evaporator coil. If the coil is caked with dirt it can’t do its job, meaning the air pushed through your vents will be warm instead of cool. If your outdoor unit isn’t getting power, one likely cause is a tripped breaker (sometimes due to a power surge, thunderstorm, etc). What to check for: If you notice that your outdoor unit (also called the condenser) is covered in a layer of dirt, turn off your AC then hose it down. But if the outside of your condenser is covered in dirt or if debris is blocking its airflow, it can’t release heat very well. If your AC is still blowing warm air, there’s probably a bigger underlying problem that needs to be fixed by an air conditioning technician. Problems with the compressor—Faulty compressors prevent heat from being pushed out of your home, meaning the same warm indoor air is cycled through your AC system instead of cool air.
Refrigerant leaks—Refrigerant is what actually cools the air, so if there is a leak, the air pushing through the vents will be warm.
Wiring issues—Wires deliver electric power to your AC unit, so if even one wire is frayed or damaged, it may be cutting off power to parts of your system that cool your air. If you’ve gone through the troubleshooting checklist and your AC is still blowing warm air, we can help (if you live in Hastings, MN or the surrounding area). To help you decide, we’ve listed the most common reasons people choose one type over another, starting with the trusty traditional water heater.
A traditional water heater heats water in a large storage tank so that you have hot water ready and available when you need it.
In fact, one study showed that to pay for itself, a tankless water heater would have to last for 21-78 years! And tankless water heater maintenance is more complicated and costly than the maintenance traditional water heaters need. Paying more for the convenience of limitless hot water only really makes sense if you currently run out of hot water regularly.
Instead of heating water in a large reservoir, tankless water heaters only heat water when you need it. A tankless water heater is smaller and more compact than a traditional water heater because it doesn’t have a large storage tank. And this is an even bigger issue because of new federal water heater regulations that went into effect last year.
Traditional water heaters are constantly heating your water so that it’s ready whenever you might need it. Part of an infographic from Noritz showing the difference between tankless and traditional water heater run times.
According to Energy.gov, this can result in an efficiency gain of 24% to 34% for families who use 41 gallons or less of hot water daily.
However, as discussed above, it’s unlikely that this energy savings is enough to overcome the increased cost of installing a tankless water heater. And tankless water heaters can indeed deliver an unending supply of hot water—so long as you get the right size for your home. Whether you’ve decided on a tankless or regular water heater, Benjamin Franklin Plumbing can install it for you. How it affects price: For the most part, the larger the air conditioner, the higher the price. How it affects price: If you need to install ductwork for the first time or modify existing ducts, the labor and materials needed can double the price. How it affects price: When it comes to the price, it really depends on whether you already have an AC system installed in your home or not. A split system will cost more to install than a packaged system if installed in a house that does not currently have an AC system. If your home already has an AC system and you are simply replacing it with the same type, this is much cheaper than reconfiguring the entire system to support a different type of air conditioner (that is, replacing a packaged system with a split system). Note: If your home already has a furnace (as most Minnesota homes do) this will decrease the cost of your split system installation.
How it affects price: The general rule of thumb is that the bigger names (Trane, Carrier, and Lennox) are more expensive but usually offer advanced features and better warranties. What it is: This portion of the overall cost goes toward hiring a contractor to determine the type and size of the system you need and to deliver and install the AC system. In fact, research shows that improperly installing an air conditioner can result in a 30% increase in energy usage, resulting in unnecessarily high energy bills. Now that you understand the factors that can affect the price of a new central air conditioner, you’re most likely wondering where you fall in the $3,000-$10,000 range. If you live in Minnesota or Western Wisconsin, On Time Service Pros can help you determine how much your installation will cost.
That annoying wobble your ceiling fan makes can be difficult to troubleshoot because so many different problems can cause it. Unfortunately, many people in Minnesota add ceiling fans to their homes by attaching them to ceiling boxes that are not rated for fans. The easiest way is to look for something on the box that says it can support a ceiling fan. Non fan-rated boxes only have ears that can support lightweight fixtures, not heavy ceiling fans.
Fan-rated ceiling boxes have these ears so they can be used for small fixtures, but they also have threaded posts for ceiling fans that can support more weight. To check for warped blades, measure the distance from the end of each blade to the ceiling. Make sure you’re measuring the same side of each blade and at the same spot on the ceiling. Balancing the fan involves adding weight to the fan blade that is causing the fan to wobble. It’s impossible to give you the exact cost of a tankless water heater because it depends on so many factors. But, on average, a tankless water heater installed in Hastings, MN is usually between $3,200 and $4,500.
The price of the water heater itself usually makes up 60 to 70% of the total installed price.
A tankless water heater’s energy efficiency is measured by a number called the Energy Factor (or EF). The more hot water you use, the bigger water heater you’ll need and the more expensive it will be. But tankless water heaters aren’t measured in gallons like a traditional water heater. The temperature rise, which is the number of degrees the water heater can raise incoming water. The other 30 to 40% of the price of an installed tankless water heater is usually the actual installation.
That’s why we only do fixed, upfront pricing so there are no surprises for you later.
If you want an exact price on a new tankless water heater, you can contact us for an in-home quote. The best smoke detector for these areas is the dual sensor smoke detector with photoelectric and heat sensors. That’s why, for bedrooms, you should get a detector that has both photoelectric and heat sensor technology.
Even though ionization smoke detectors are in 90%-95% of homes, they’re the most unreliable smoke detector technology. According to this study, for smoldering fires, ionization alarms respond an average of 15 to 50 minutes slower than photoelectric alarms.
Even if you get the right smoke detector, it’s only as reliable the person who installs it.
If you need a professional electrician to install the best smoke detectors in your home, contact Mr.
Therefore, you need to install a circuit with an amp rating that can handle that appliance’s electric current.
Have you had the water heater repaired several times in the last few months—or even weeks? Flush the water heater annually— Over time, sediment (loose minerals) settles in the tank, forming a layer of insulation between the heating element and water, causing the burner to run longer to heat your water.
Change the anode rod every 4 to 5 years— This rod sacrifices itself to protect your water heater tank from rust.
For example, if you have a 20-amp breaker protecting a 20-amp circuit and 30 amps is flowing through that circuit, the breaker will trip (open the circuit) and stop the electric current. In this case, you would want the microwave to have its own dedicated circuit, a circuit not shared by other appliances. If your breaker trips immediately after you reset it, you may have a short circuit somewhere in your home.
When this shortcut is created, there’s very little resistance in the circuit, which increases the electrical current dramatically, heating up the wires and tripping the circuit breaker. The issue may not be with anything on the circuit but rather with the circuit breaker itself. Do you hear what sounds like popcorn popping whenever your water heater heats the water like the guy in this video? In some cases, sediment may actually block the drain, preventing you from draining the water heater. Make sure the cold water supply is all the way on and wait about 10 minutes for the water to fill the tank. Benjamin Franklin Plumbing serves Hastings, MN and the surrounding cities, including Apple Valley, Burnsville, Cottage Grove, Eagan, Woodbury, Lakeville, Rosemount and Stillwater. In a typical house, about 20% to 30% of the air that moves through the duct system is lost due to leaks, holes, and poorly connected ducts, according to ENERGY STAR.
If your ducts are leaking that seriously, you should get them fixed first (or at the same time). But first, let’s look at how these 2 heating systems work so you can better understand what makes them different. A boiler heats water that is then sent to radiators or radiant floor systems in your home via pipes.
So now that you know how they’re functionally different, here are the factors to consider when making your decision. Both furnace and boiler efficiency are rated using AFUE (annual fuel utilization efficiency). For example, an 80% AFUE natural gas furnace turns 80% of the natural gas it uses into heat. In general, though, boilers are more efficient than furnaces even when their AFUE is equal. Of course, these duct problems can be minimized with proper duct design, sealing and insulation. Furnaces can be installed much more quickly, assuming you already have the ductwork in place.
If you’re looking at your decision from purely a price standpoint, a furnace may be your best option.
But if you really value the comfort and zoning a boiler can provide, a furnace may never completely satisfy you.
How to fix: Open the smoke detector cover and gently vacuum the detector using the soft brush attachment or using a can of air to blow out dust. There may be something physically wrong with the smoke detector that’s causing it go go off. We serve Hastings, Apple Valley, Burnsville, Cottage Grove, Eagan, Woodbury, Lakeville, Rosemount, Stillwater, the southern metro area and more with quality electrical service.


That Air Conditioning Contractors of America (ACCA) is the professional organization for heating and air conditioning companies. Have you been keeping your thermostat fan set to “ON” for your air conditioning or heating?
ON: This means your furnace or air conditioning fan will run CONSTANTLY, even if the desired temperature has been reached. Regardless of the blower type, you’ll lose more air out of air duct leaks, which are more common than you think. If you or your family members have bad allergies from home pollutants, it may be worth it to run your fan and help clear the air. We serve Hastings, Apple Valley, Burnsville, Cottage Grove, Eagan, Woodbury, Lakeville, Rosemount, Stillwater, the Twin Cities and more with quality HVAC, plumbing and electrical service.
When there are no problems, a flushed toilet will go straight down the drain into the sewer.
But if you add partial clog to the sewer drain, the sudden flush of water can’t all make it down the drain. Grease—Grease is liquid when you put it down the drain, but it can solidify in your pipes, collecting other waste as it passes by, creating a clog. Get a professional plumber to take care of the problem, otherwise you could end up doing more harm than good. Benjamin Franklin Plumbing serves Hastings, Minnesota and the surrounding areas, including  Apple Valley, Burnsville, Cottage Grove, Eagan, Woodbury, Lakeville, Rosemount and Stillwater. For example, a furnace with an AFUE of 90% means that, for every dollar you spend on heating, 90 cents actually heats your home and 10 cents is wasted due to inefficiencies. Higher quality blowers and burners provide more even heating throughout your home, eliminating cold spots and improving the furnace’s efficiency.
If you’re a visual person, watch this video that explains blower types and burner types.
Most contractors will offer the installation estimate free of charge, so you can easily compare different contractors’ estimates.
If it is not running, see Chapter 5.Some refrigerators are very quiet and smooth when they operate.
Electric tankless water heaters just don’t work well in cold climates like Minnesota. If not, stick with a traditional water heater because it’s more cost effective (see above).
To comply, most new storage water heaters are now 2 to 8 inches taller and 2 to 6 inches wider than their predecessors.
The good news is that there is only a slight difference in price from sizes 1-ton to 3-tons.
For example, Trane is known for their high prices, but they offer 10-year warranties on their products. Well, we’ll walk you through an easy tutorial that will help you correct 90% of the problems that cause a wobbly ceiling fan. Over time, the weight and vibration of the ceiling fan works the box loose from the ceiling, leading to a wobble. A warped blade throws off the fan’s balance as it cuts through the air, causing the fan to wobble. But sometimes ceiling fans need to be balanced because the weight of one blade is just different enough to throw of the balance of the whole fan. However, we don’t really recommend electric tankless water heaters as they have trouble raising the temperature of our cold Minnesota water.
As a general rule, well-known brands with good warranties will cost more than the store brands you can pick up at a big box store that have much shorter warranties. If they run into problems they hadn’t thought about, or things end up taking longer than expected, your final price can be much higher than the original quote. We’ll ask you some questions to determine the right size for your home and give you a few options. Now you need to answer this question: What amp rating does the dedicated circuit need to be? We serve Hastings, Apple Valley, Burnsville, Cottage Grove, Eagan, Woodbury, Lakeville, Rosemount, Stillwater, the southern metro area and more with quality plumbing service.
For example, your microwave may be sharing the same 15-amp circuit as your blender in your kitchen. They can determine if the problem is an overloaded circuit, a short circuit or a breaker issue and then fix it. The layer of sediment can take up a good amount of space, leaving you with less hot water for your home.
Since it slows the transfer of heat to the water, it can cause the tank to overheat, which can damage the tank and lead to a leak.
Flushing involves emptying the water heater tank of water and flushing some clean water through it. In fact, a furnace with a lower AFUE that’s installed correctly will be more energy efficient than a poorly installed but high-AFUE furnace. It sucks in air from your home, heats it and then blows it back into your house via ducts and air vents.
Unlike when a furnace turns on, there’s no noticeable draft while a boiler is heating your home. Since boilers run more continuously, the heat has more time to spread out and warm your home. Installing a boiler can take days while installing a new furnace can be done in a 4-6 hours. The slight energy efficiency edge a boiler has won’t be enough to make up the high upfront cost of a boiler.
Humidity from the bathroom may have wafted over to a nearby smoke detector which can mistake humidity for smoke.
Now it’s time to do some preliminary research and eliminate a few to get your list down to 2-3.
Those reviews should hold more weight than the reviews from anonymous and unknown people online.
After hearing from you and looking around your home, the installer will present you with different options.
If you hire a contractor without insurance, you may be liable for any accidents that happen on your property. According to Energy Vanguard, a study showed that most air ducts leak up to 12% of the air going into a heating or cooling unit and 10% of the air coming out. However, when you aren’t home, you should still set your thermostat fan back to AUTO. A professional plumber can also do a video inspection to make sure there are no other underlying problems (like tree roots).
The additional low setting allows the furnace to keep the heat from dropping too low beyond your thermostat setting while not having to run at full blast. Think of this calculation like measuring your foot to find the right shoe size—but with way more numbers involved.
Make sure that there is a healthy amount of space (2 to 3 feet) between the condenser and all surrounding objects. They can’t keep up with the hot water needs of most homes, so de do not recommend them. Basically, as the water is sitting in the tank, some heat escapes and the water heater has to re-heat it. But, beware, if your water heater has reached this stage the sediment may be solidified and can’t be flushed out.
A layer of sediment blocks the heat, causing your water heater to work harder to heat your water.
While you can zone your home with a furnace, it requires more work and doesn’t come built in.
Furnaces are notorious for allowing hot and cold spots in homes (though this can be rectified with proper duct design and variable-speed blowers). In other words, if you bump up your thermostat a few degrees, a furnace will make up the difference more quickly than a boiler. As a result, replacing or installing a boiler in your home costs more: from $3,500 on the low end to over $10,000 for a high-efficiency unit. Smoke detectors placed near these vents are more likely to go off because dusty air can be blown through the alarm-sensing chamber. And one that’s too large will turn on and off frequently, ruining your comfort and increasing energy bills. They also have a nifty contractor search that lets you find ACCA furnace installers in your area. Membership shows they’re a committed professional and not a fly-by-the-night company. Just annoyance and a heart that’s beating faster than an excited hamster on a cage wheel.
A well-designed website shows professionalism and that the company is in it for the long run, not just a quick buck. If you are still unsure and you own an ammeter, test the current draw of the compressor at the compressor leads. LED: Understanding You Home Lighting Options5 Signs It’s Time To Break Up With Your Aging Air ConditionerPurchasing a New Television? If the knob has an "off" setting which stops the compressor from running, it is thecold control.In the absence of an "off" setting, the easiest way to tell them apart is to pull the plastic knob off the control. The idea is to keep the compartment at a different temperature from the rest of the food compartment; a more optimum temperature for the particular food that you're keeping in these compartments.
This is known as "sweating." So-called "Energy Saver" switches control small, low-wattage "mullion" heaters in the side and door panels that prevent the outside of the refrigerator from getting cool enough for sweating to occur. Air flows over it by convection; the warm air rises and is replaced by cooler air from below.
Feel for a steady flow of warm air from the drain pan side; it should be obvious (see Figure 11). It has the veryimportantjob of directing airflow beneath the fridge, assuring that the condenser fan is drawing air over the condenser and not just sucking air in through the back of the fridge. They are sealed units and cannot be rebuilt.Replacing the condenser fan motor can be dirty and difficult.
When installing a new motor with bracket mounts, it may be easier to install the brackets loosely on the motor until you can locate the mounting screws in their holes. Thus, when trouble-shooting the evaporator fan, you must depress the door switch(es).Open your freezer door, depress all door switches and listen for the evaporator fan. Look first for a separate access panel or a tower within the freezer that houses the fan (Figure 14). Check for anything that may be blocking the fan, including ice from a backed-up defrost drain or a frost problem. If nothing is blocking the fan and it still does not run, check for voltage across the fan motor leads (with the door switch depressed, of course.)If you have voltage across the fan motor leads, the fan motor is bad.
Itcancause ice to build up in the internal ductwork.If you hear a "whistling" or "warbling" noise emanating from the fan motor itself or from the inside of the food or freezer compartment, it is probably coming from the evaporator fan motor. They don't cost much.REPLACING THE EVAPORATOR FAN MOTORIn replacing the fan motor, you must make sure that the rotation of the new fan motor is the same as the old one. The easiest way to do this is to look for the shading poles on the old fan motor (Figure 16).If they are on opposite corners from the ones on the new fan motor core, it is a simple enough task to reverse the new rotor in its core.
Do not remove the icemaker (if installed.)Look at and feel the panel covering the bottom or back of the freezer compartment. You will see a removable panel covering the entire back or bottom of your freezer compartment.
Make sure the power is off the refrigerator before disassembling any lighting circuit.On some bottom-evap models, you may have to remove some of the plastic moulding around the door frame to access some of the evaporator panel screws. This can usually be accomplished by placing a pan of very hot water in various places on the panel, or by blowing warm air on it with a blow-dryer. Therefore, when you are diagnosing a defrost problem, it's a good idea to try to avoid melting the ice encasing the terminating thermostat until you've made your diagnosis.


If the thermostat opens before you've had a chance to see if the heater works, you'll have to by-pass it.
There are many styles, but most are variations of the three types pictured in Figure 20.Aback-evaporatormodel is one with the evaporator mounted vertically against theinside back wallof the freezer compartment. These may be bottom freezer models, side-by-sides (Figure 17) or top freezer models (Figure 18.)Abottom-evaporatormodel is one with the evaporator mounted horizontally (flat) beneath a panel on thebottomof the freezer compartment (Figure 19).
Does it have a fluffy (snowy) white consistency, or is it solid and clear-ish or slightly milky white-ish?Check the frostpattern. Or is it not frosted at all?On back-evap models, examine the drain pan directly beneath the evaporator. Is it clear, or is it filled with solid ice?Each of these symptoms indicates a different problem.
If you have lots of white, snowy ice, keep reading.4-5 DEFROST SYSTEMIf the frost is snowy and white in appearance, you have a defrost problem. The three main components of the defrost system are the defrost timer, the defrost heater and the terminating thermostat.4-5(a) DEFROST TIMERS AND ADAPTIVE DEFROST CONTROLIn most older refrigerators and some newer ones, a motor-driven timer (Figure 21) is used to stop the compressor and initiate a defrost cycle.
If you have a Whirlpool or Kenmore refrigerator with a flex-tray icemaker, the defrost timer is integrated into the icemaker.
This is true whether you are using the icemaker to make ice or not; it is running constantly to time your defrost cycles. If you have a defrost problem and you have one of these machines, follow the instructions in section 4-6.Nowadays, refrigerators are being made as efficient as possible, due in no small part to government energy efficiency requirements.
Defrost heaters use a lot of energy, so designers are mimimizing the total amount of time that the heater is energized.
Such factors include ambient humidity and temperature, the water content and temperature of the food you put into the fridge, icemaking within the freezer, and how often the door is opened and closed.For example, if you go away on vacation for a week, the refrigerator door will obviously not be opened for a long time. Less humid air will enter the fridge than if someone was at home, and opening and closing the door.
Frost buildup will be much slower than usual, so the refrigerator will not need to be defrosted as often as normal. It also will not need to be chilled as often, so compressor run times will be shorter and less frequent.Designers are using microprocessors (on solid state circuit boards) to adapt defrost intervals and durations to compensate for differences and changes in operating conditions. Such techniques are calledAdaptive Defrost Control, commonly abbreviated as ADC.To make decisions about the correct defrost duration and interval, the control board must have input about the conditions that the fridge is operating under. Each manufacturer uses a different logic scheme and different inputs, such as door open time, compressor run time, duration of the previous defrost cycle, and duration and intervals of door openings.Door open info is provided to the logic board by the door switch - the same one that controls the refrigerator's internal lights.
For example, the ADC is programmed with a maximum amount of time that the heater can stay on; say, for 16 minutes. Often they are mounted under a cover plate or in a bracket that hides all but the advancement pinion. The easiest way to recognize them is that the harness connection is always labelled with the compressor, defrost heater, L1 and L2. The easiest way to see the heater is to look for the heavy, rubber-coated wires leading to it; one on each end.
The element has no protective tubing and generally wraps around beneath the evaporator in a large "U" shape.You must exercise caution when handling these heaters to prevent burning yourself. If that happens, you want to turn the heater off soon after the ice melts, to prevent the evaporator compartment from heating up too much. If theterminating thermostatsenses too high a temperature in the compartment, it opens, and cuts power to the heater. The thermostat will then stay open until the compartment again reaches a very low temperature.
In other words, it waits to reset itself until the cooling cycle starts again.If the evaporator is more heavily frosted, the ice may not all melt within the time allotted by the timer. The heater will stay on until thetimerstops the defrost cycle, and restarts the cooling cycle.If you initiate defrost (turn the timer on) and the heaterdoes notheat up, then usually the heater or terminating thermostat is bad.
If you initiate defrost and the heaterdoesturn on, then usually the timer or ADC board is bad, and you must replace it.To diagnose which component is bad, you must initiate the defrost mode, or test continuity through the defrost heater and terminating thermostat.
Within ten minutes (usually much less) you should be able to see a red glow from the defrost heater(s), which is (are) mounted beneath the evaporator.If you have an aluminum-tube heater as described in section 4-5(b), it will not glow red, but youwillsee ice melting away from its coils.
Timers can get old, worn and coked up with dust, and may develop hard spots in the bearings.
If youdo nothear or see indications that the defrost heater is working, then it is necessary to investigate a little further. If you cannot tell for sure, get the information for your model fridge from your parts man. DIAGNOSIS: DEFROST HEATER AND TERMINATING THERMOSTATIf you do not hear or see indications that the defrost heater is working, you could be looking at one of several different problems. The heatermaybe so icebound that it would takehoursfor the heater to melt enough ice for you to see the heater begin to work. If they are not connected to a terminal block, you will need to cut the leads to test for continuity. Make sure you're not testing continuity across the terminating thermostat too; it may be wide open above 40 or 50 degrees. With glass-tube heaters, be careful that the glass is not cracked or broken and that you do not cut yourself.
It's cheap.If you have an ammeter, try to determine if the heater is drawing any power before you melt any ice. In trying to find the heater leads, be careful that you do not melt so much ice that the terminating thermostat opens. If you suspect that the terminating thermostat might be open, temporarily bypass the terminating thermostat with an alligator jumper as described below.If you cannot find the heater leads, an alternativeis to check the current in one lead of the main power cord.
Double-check this diagnosis by jumping across (shorting) the terminating thermostat with your alligator jumpers. If the two thermostat leads are not on a terminal block, you will have to cut the leads to jump the thermostat.
Remember that it's a wet environment.LIFTING THE EVAPORATORIf you have a bottom-evap model fridge, replacing the heater will involve the delicate task of lifting the evaporator up to get to the heater.
If you break or puncture one of those tubes, you're looking at a potentially expensive sealed system repair.Thaw out the evaporator as thoroughly as is humanly possible. Remove the evaporator mounting screws (if there are any) and gently lift up the end of the evaporator opposite the tubes. Prop up the evaporator with a blunt instrument (I use my electrical pliers or a flashlight) and change the heater. Do what you went in there to do, but as much as possible, avoid moving the evaporator around too much.When you finish, gently lower the evaporator back into place.
The hard tray is finished in a dark gray or black color and has rotating fingers that eject the cubes from the unit; the flex-tray has a white plastic, flexible tray that inverts and twists to eject, much the same as a manual ice cube tray would work. The hard-tray and separate defrost timer is by far the more common arrangement.This defrost system has the same components described in the defrost system in section 4-5, except that the defrost timer is integrated into the icemaker. However, the actual switch that controls the heater is accessible.Remove the icemaker and the evaporator panel as described in section 4-4. Take the plastic cover off the face of the icemaker and remove the three screws holding the metal faceplate to the icemaker head. Plug the icemaker back into its electrical socket and observe the drive motor in the upper lefthand corner of the icemaker head.
The defrost switch is the small, rectangular switch in the upper righthand corner of the icemaker head. Using electrical tape, tape it out of the way so it does not touch any other metal object in the icemaker head. Using your resistance meter, you should see continuity (and no resistance) between the empty terminal (where the BLACK lead was) and the PINK terminal.You should see NO continuity between the empty (BLACK) and ORANGE terminal.
When the switch toggle is depressed, continuity will be just the opposite: BLACK-ORANGE-CONTINUITY, BLACK-PINK-NO CONTINUITY. If the switch is okay, the problem is probably your defrost heater or terminating thermostat. Alignment of the gears is critical; follow the instructions that come with the gear sets carefully. If you replace the motor, you will have to re-align the defrost timing gear mechanism.RE-ASSEMBLYIf you have not removed the defrost timing gear housing from the back of the icemaker head or the motor from the front of the head, you will not need to re-align thedefrost timinggear mechanism. However, youwillneed to realign thedrivegear mechanism.Align the hole in the small drive gear with the alignment hole in the icemaker head and install the gear.
If they do not line up perfectly, momentarily plug the icemaker in or apply 110 volt power to the two center leads of the plug This will turn the drive motor slightly.
Lift the spring-loaded shut-off arm (ice level sensor) as you install the cam and let it rest in the cam hollow. Carefully install the metal cover plate, making sure the end of the wire shut-off arm (ice level sensor) is in its pivot hole in the metal cover plate.
Make sure the icemaker is turned on (ice level sensor arm is down) or it won't make ice.4-7 HOT GAS DEFROST PROBLEMSIf you have a refrigerator with a hot gas defrost system, the defrost mechanism is somewhat different from those described in previous sections of this book. If you suspect that you might have a hot-gas defroster but you are not sure, ask your appliance parts dealer.
Most of these refrigerators were built before 1970, but not all.The main difference in a hot gas system is that there is no electrical heater or separate terminating thermostat. The defrost cycle is controlled by a defrost timer similar to the one you'll find in electric defrost systems, but the timer controls asolenoid valveinstead of aheater.
These units have a temperature sensing bulb, similar to that found on the cold control (see section 4-9 and Figures 21 and 33) as a part of the timer. Its function is to sense the temperature of the evaporator so the defrost mechanism knows when to shut off.Troubleshooting a defrost problem in this system involves two steps. Wait and watch your evaporator for 10-15 minutes.If the frost starts to melt, then your defrost timer has gone bad. Thoroughly melt the rest of the frost from your evaporator and replace the defrost timer.If the frost doesnotstart to melt, then your defrost solenoid is probably bad. Fortunately, the defrost solenoid is usually designed so the electrical coil can be replaced without cutting into the sealed system.
Trace the Freon tubing until you find electrical wires joining the tubing at a certain point.
UNEVEN FROST PATTERNS, OR NO FROST AT ALLThe evaporator should be bitterly cold to the touch.
If the evaporator is either slightly cool or not cold at all, and your compressor is runningconstantly(not short-cycling; see section 4-9) you have a more serious problem. The same diagnosis applies if just the first coil or two in the evaporator is (are) frosted and the rest are relatively free of ice or perhaps even lukewarm.What's happening is that the Freon is not getting compressed enough in the compressor. This could be due to two causes: either the amount of Freon in the system is low, or the compressor is worn out. Itmayonly require recharging the Freon system, which, depending on the refrigerant used, may cost you a little, or a LOT. I have only seen one exception to this diagnosis, and this is described in section 7-2.Don't let the age of the refrigerator affect your diagnosis. Not too long ago, one of the largest appliance companies put out a series of refrigerators with compressors that were either poorly designed or poorly constructed; I never did find out which. These were their giant, 20 to 25 cubic-foot flagship models, with techno-marvelous gadgets like digital self-diagnosis and ice and water in the door, and they were built with compressors that wore out within 2 years.Fortunately, the biggest and best companies warrant their refrigerators for five years or more, so these refrigerators were still covered under warranty.
COLD CONTROLIf your refrigerator is cold but not as cold as usual, and you cannot trace it to any of the other problems in this chapter, your cold control may be defective. To test its cut-in and cut-out temperatures, you can try putting the capillary bulb in ice water and measuring the temperature with a thermometer, but it's a wet, messy, job and it's difficult to control the temperatures.
The capillary tube is the liquid-filled temperature-sensing element of the cold control, and operates in the same manner as a thermometerbulb; in fact, the end of the capillary tube may have a bulb. The tube and bulbmaybe coiled right next to the cold control, or they may be led away to another part of the compartment.If you are justtesting(electrically) the cold control, you can jumper directly from one wire lead to the other. By doing this, you are closing the switch manually, and assuming the machine is not in the defrost mode, the compressor should start.If you arereplacingthe cold control, it will be necessary to trace where the capillary tube goes, and remove the whole tubewiththe cold control.




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