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The good news for time lapse enthusiasts is that this new version simplifies the process and no longer requires the workaround that I described in a previous post.
Begin by importing all of the photos in your time lapse series into Movie Maker.  I prefer to number them sequentially, but I believe Movie Maker is less picky than VirtualDub in this regard.
After you’ve saved the video, you can open it in Movie Maker and edit it the same way as any other video. Here’s the final result of the video I made during this tutorial.  The people in the foreground toward the end are picking up the pieces of someone’s mobile phone after it flew off the ride. The good news is I’m sure someone will come out with a program eventually, so you can begin taking photos now and assemble them in a couple of years. Modern morphing software has intelligent face detection that greatly simplifies the process. The quality of the video versus the original photos depends on size, compression, and color management.

I have done the Windows Movie Maker recently, after made two video featured the oldest survived 35mm nitrate films of unknown origins.
The only trouble is getting the face in the same place in the frame every time, I could get it quite close but not exact. I photographed all 1,594 frames from 100ft roll by my Epson film scanner, and fully cropped around the unwanted sprocket holes from it.
With Movie Maker, you can turn your home movies into awesome videos that you can share across the Internet, or burn to a CD or DVD.
However, for Vista and Seven users we recommand Windows Live Movie Maker which part of Windows Live Essential. My only time-lapse was the clouds scene, where the clouds move up the sky faster as that of a night turns into day and vice versa. One thing to note, Movie Maker did not load for me, a problem with Windows 7 x64 bit, I had to update my graphics card drivers to the latest version.

Movie Maker is easy for anyone to use, so don't be afraid to dive in, even if you're not a computer expert. And while printed colors have a wider range, videos should use the same color palette as the digital photos. As the pre-1930 films was projected at 20 FPS therefore I adjusted the duration time of each frame at 0.05 per frame.

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