Getting to grips with your photo editing software can be quite a challenge if you’re just getting started.
Your camera’s Auto function lacks the intelligence to know which areas in the frame you want to prioritise in relation to exposure, so you might end up with important details being left in the dark. When it comes to capturing correct colours you can give the camera a helping hand by choosing specific WB presets, but with changing weather conditions, a particular preset may add unwanted colour casts to some of your shots. Due to cloudy weather conditions, our location in the start image has dull lighting in the background. However, the foreground rhododendron bush is being lit by direct sunlight, so has a better contrast, stronger colours and a healthier colour balance.
These contrasting lighting conditions mean that we need to use Photoshop Elements to make local (rather than global) corrections to fix the shot’s exposure and colour problems.
In this tutorial, we’ll demonstrate how to use adjustment layers to boost the strength of weaker colours without over-saturating stronger ones. You’ll also learn how to selectively target and warm up cold colours by editing an adjustment layer’s mask.
You can get Adobe Photoshop with lots of Photoshop Plugins for One Hundred Fifty One dollars.
Oh, and here's an edit I did the other day with a lot of lighting and shadows done, and to show you how lighting and shadows are super important and how they can make or break a photo.
Also, I forgot to ask this, but would anyone like me to teach them how I did something in one of my edits, or the whole edit itself?
If you're unsure of what I did to an image and want to see the before edit, just request the before image and I'll post it. I don't use things because it's a, "meme," or, "popular," I just use things I find amusing.
I don't know why my paragraphs are always so weird-looking, I really like starting a new sentence, just for the heck of it? My God I swear everybody I have talked to within the past couple weeks like anime xD I feel so awkward because I'm just not into anime. Yesterday we took a look at how Photoshop’s Blend Modes work and the 10 best blends for photographers. It’s a given that layers are key to successful image editing in Photoshop but, for novices, layer lore can still seem like a black art. You need to think of your Photoshop layers as sheets of acetate stacked on your background image.
Each layer has its own visibility eye by the side of it, which can be used to either hide or show the layer in the image.
From the?top of the palette, you can choose the Blending Mode for the active layer and control the layer’s Opacity. The Trash Can at the bottom is used to delete the active layer, and the Add New Layer icon sits to its left. The bisected circle icon enables you to add new Adjustment Layers, and the small rectangle with the white circle is clicked to add a Layer Mask. Notice that the Palette displays both image layers and Layer Masks with thumbnails, which show their contents.
A Background Copy layer, in Multiply Blending Mode to darken the lighter areas in the image. Another Background Copy layer, this time set to Soft?Light Blending Mode, adds some much-needed contrast to the image, darkening shadows and lightening highlights.
This layer, set to Soft Light Blending Mode, has a simple black to transparent gradient added to it to darken the sky and make it look more overcast. As for future assignments though, I would avoid adding stuff like that when it's not really relevant to the theme.
Next, to make your life easier when editing, we are going to cover how to save your screenshot folder to Gimp!
If you would like to remove the bookmark, just hit the second button or right click and hit remove.
If you are still having trouble with something in this guide, or need more help, please post here or contact me. Exporting in Gimp can be a bit confusing since Gimp has “Save As” as a way to save in Gimp’s file format, not as a way to save in PNG, JPG, or anything else. To save your image with all of its layers and edits so you can go back and edit them later, go to “File” and then hit “Save” (if you just opened the image) or “Save As”. But to save your image into PNG, or any other format, you need to go to “Export As…” and then at the very top where the name is, type in the format you need. Another way to change the file format is to hit “Select File _Type (By Extension)” and then scroll down until you find your file format that you want. Before you do this method, please double check your sims clothing, hair, etc., and their CAS (or in game) background and make sure they do not match. Alternative: Don't use "Grow" and instead use the "Fixing Green Edges" tutorial after you cut out the sim. Once you’ve chosen your tool bring your mouse over to your picture and select the background. Once the background is deleted you need to unselect your sim, otherwise it won’t let you do anything outside the selection. Alternative: Don't use "Expand" and instead use the "Fixing Green Edges" tutorial after you cut out the sim. Once you’ve chosen the Magic Wand tool untick the “Continguous” option at the top (to select everything rather than clicking multiple times), then bring your mouse over to your picture and select the background. PS is much better at removing those lines than Gimp, but they can still occur on your sim and it’s something we don’t want. Before you do this method, please double check your sims clothing, hair, etc., and their background and make sure they do not match. This method also stops you from moving your sims around, as you just erased part of the background!
Once you’ve done that you need to turn your background layer back on, then go to that layer if you aren’t already. This method sometimes (but not often) causes the background to come out strange, though you can turn it back to normal after you are done (but it may cause issues). If the glow bothers you, or you feel that it doesn’t blend into the background, you can remove them or try drawing or erasing your edges instead.
So far, using it on a white background doesn’t work (from what I have seen, I could be wrong). Also, sometimes it won't work properly with certain hair colors, as in it will be too light, or too dark, etc. Now that you have your sim cut out, you’ve probably noticed by now that you still have green in your hair. Now that you have your color, make sure you are on the new layer, then grab your brush tool and start drawing over where the green is. Once you’ve done that, go to your mode option for the layer and select either “hue” or “color”.
I decided to give a mini-tutorial for those not understanding how to put together large images.
To get large images of your sim in game, go into tab mode, then start from the top of your model and take a picture. G+ #Read of the Day: The Daguerreotype - The daguerreotype, an early form of photograph, was invented by Louis Daguerre in the early 19th c.
The first photograph (1826) - Joseph Niepce, a French inventor and pioneer in photography, is generally credited with producing the first photograph. Easy Peasy Fact:Following Niepcea€™s experiments, in 1829 Louis Daguerre stepped up to make some improvements on a novel idea. Adafruit: The oldest street scene photos of New York City - Check out these incredible (and incredibly old) photos of NYC, via Ephemeral New York. The oldest street scene photos of New York CityCheck out these incredible (and incredibly old) photos of NYC, via Ephemeral New York. I still remember reading about Louis Daguerre's invention, the daguerreotype, in high school.
The Making of the American Museum of Natural Historya€™s Wildlife DioramasFossil shark-jaw restoration, 1909.
Very old portrait of three men identified as (from left to right) Henry, George, and Stephen Childs, November 25, 1842. In 1840, Hippolyte Bayard, a pioneer of early photography, created an image called Self-Portrait as a Drowned Man. 10 Times History Was Captured in Living ColorColor photographs go back to before you might think. In this tutorial we’ve compiled 18 of the best photo editing tips and quick fixes for photographers who want to beat some of the common problems photographers face with colour, tone and composition.
As a result, the bridge is under-exposed, has a flat contrast and suffers from a cold colour cast. We’ll show you how to sharpen up delicate details while keeping noise at bay, as well as demonstrating how to remove distracting objects with a quick swipe of the Clone Stamp tool. There's a bit too much sunlight and the shadow for her isn't corrected (I was lazy), but it gives you the general idea and shows what you'll be learning in the future.
I don't mind writing a tutorial if someone is interested, and if you're interested in one of Eli's edits instead I can ask her if she's willing to write a guide.
Or we can just have a prompt thread and everyone, including the creator, can participate, and then we could have the community vote, kind of like Free Spirit over in Sims 3 but with the creator participating, because I feel bad that the creator can't participate (and if no one makes one I will, but I'll be participating myself. Today we want to go even further back to basics with photo editing and look at the types of Photoshop layers and how to use them to get the effect you want.


In this post we’re going to demonstrate how user-friendly and essential Photoshop layers are to you.
A layer can be filled with image pixels, or just have a small area of an image with other areas transparent. On the third page of this post you’ll see a deconstruction of our featured image image, and how we used layers to achieve the result. The lower area has been masked out in this layer so that it just cools down the sky a little.
Adjustment Layers can always be re-edited simply by double-clicking on them in the Layers palette. It might seem really obvious, but to work on?a layer you need to target it first in the Layers palette.
I only commented on it because you added it as part of the outfit (or am I remembering that wrong?). I still need to fiddle with something and then go over searching and manipulating, but I should hopefully be done soon.
When you hit “Open” and navigate to your Sims 4 documents folder, select your screenshots folder (but don’t double click or open it) and then move your mouse over to the left and hit the first folded up paper. Doing this is recommended for all of your edits, because if you can’t go back and make changes or continue where you left off the day before, your hard work can be ruined! This PSD format allows you to go back and make changes to your layers and edit your image further. Most of the time the hair looks perfectly fine with these cut edges, so don't freak out, study the image to see the damage, then move on if there aren't immediate errors. Once it is loaded, go up to your “Layer” tab (or right click on your image and go to layer), scroll down to “Transparency” and select “Add Alpha Channel”.
When the screen pops up, select foreground or background (the one that is black) and hit “Ok”, and then a new layer shows up. However, sometimes over selection can occur, which means more than just the background was selected.
Choose to use either the Rectangle Select Tool, the Ellipse Select Tool, or the Free Select Tool.
Or you can grab your eraser, change it to the hard brush, and then erase the background (fuzzy leaves behind bits of the background since the edges are low opacity). Once it is open, unlock the layer by double clicking the layer in your layer box or clicking the lock symbol. Make sure you are on the new layer, then take your fill bucket and click on the layer in the image section to color it. Choose to use either the Rectangular or Elliptical Marquee Tool, Quick Selection Tool, or the Lasso Tool. Go up to “Select” again and hit “Deselect”, or hit “Ctrl + D” to remove the selection (Cmd + D if Mac). If you are using white clothes on a white background, etc., it will be very hard to cut out the sim! To get the background on the same workspace as your model, open the background with the “Open as Layers” option under “File”. What I do is make a new layer, place it under my sims layer, color pick the edge of the dress, go to my new layer, then slowly trace the outline with my hard brush.
This guide is based on this wonderful one here, and the reason why I rewrote it is because her Gimp has too many steps from what I saw. The easiest way to get rid of this is actually quite simple, and it can be used for clothes and skin too! The next part is to make sure you don’t paint over anything else and only on your sim, so let’s select our sim. Sometimes one will work better than the other depending on what hair color you are using, so flip back and forth between the two to determine which is best. Hit Ctrl + 5-9 (whichever number) and this will save your spot, so if you mess up and need to go back to that spot, press the number you saved at. I explained how to for both Gimp and PS already, but for Gimp use “Open as Layers” and then ctrl + left click however many images you need. Talbot was active from the mid-1830s, and sits alongside Louis Daguerre as one of the fathers of the medium. Niepcea€™s photograph shows a view from the Window at Le Gras, and it only took eight hours of exposure time!The history of photography has roots in remote antiquity with the discovery of the principle of the camera obscura and the observation that some substances are visibly altered by exposure to light.
Again employing the use of solvents and metal plates as a canvas, Daguerre utilized a combination of silver and iodine to make a surface more sensitive to light, thereby taking less time to develop.
Half of the Limburg province of Belgium is added to the Netherlands, giving rise to a Belgian Limburg and Dutch Limburg (the latter being from September 5 joined to the German Confederation).June 3 a€“ Destruction of opium at Humen begins, casus belli for Britain to open the 3-year First Opium War against Qing dynasty China.
Bayard had just perfected the process of printing on to paper, which would come to define photography in the following century, but the French government had decided to invest instead in the daguerrotype, a process invented by his rival, Louis Daguerre.
Just list an edit and describe what you want to learn from it, and if you want multiple done that's okay as well. As the Background layer, it’s used both for a base and a source for any subsequent Duplicate layers.
We painted on this layer with black to darken some areas, and with white to lighten others. You can move a layer to any position within the palette by dragging and dropping it between layers. If you had made the sim with the tattoo when you applied, I would have ignored it in this picture, but since I remember you saying you added it, I talked about it but didn't dock any points for it. Doing this tells the program that you would like to bookmark the folder for easy access later. Saving it in PNG or JPG and then opening it again gives you a single image with no layers, meaning you can’t edit them later, so it is important you save as XCF before exporting your image as a PNG. Saving it in PNG or JPG and then opening it again gives you a single image with no layers, meaning you can’t edit them later, so it is important you save as a PSD before saving your image again as a PNG. Both select by color, but the “Select by Color” tool will be easier to use and is the suggested one. Doing so will select everything but your background, and there really is no need to click on your sim when the background is what you want removed. I prefer the Free Select tool because then I don’t have to worry about removing odd rectangle shapes around her selection, and it’s easier to just draw a shape around the affected areas. If you are the last one though, it means you weren’t paying attention and allowed over selection to occur.
I prefer the Lasso tool because then I don’t have to worry about removing odd rectangle shapes around her selection, and it’s easier to just draw a shape around the affected areas.
Go up to your “Select” tab, down to “Modify” and then hit “Expand” or “Contract” (I suggest expand). Once they are loaded go up to your “Layer” tab (or right click on your image and go to layer), scroll down to “Transparency” and select “Add Alpha Channel”.
I would suggest using the soft fuzzy brush and not to erase the loose strands as the hair will still have white in it.
Zooming in, lowering the opacity, and using a small brush control the damage that the smudge brush can do. What I do is gently go around the sim with my eraser after smudging the edges, and you can reselect your sim, inverse it, then erase the edges too. In this example you can see how bad I was at drawing the edges, but you can already tell that it looks slightly better than how it did before. Just because you took the images in pieces doesn’t mean you have to put them back in a sensible order, only in an order that works and overlaps well. Though he is most famous for his contributions to photography, he was also an accomplished painter and a developer of the diorama theatre.
As far as is known, nobody thought of bringing these two phenomena together to capture camera images in permanent form until around 1800, when Thomas Wedgwood made the first reliably documented although unsuccessful attempt. It didna€™t take long for others to seize the new technology and create daguerreotypes of New York City street scenes. Daguerreotypes are sharply defined, highly reflective, one-of-a-kind photographs on silver-coated copper plates, usually packaged behind glass and kept in protective cases.
If we're covering it in future assignments I'll let you know, and if it's something I learned from another guide I'll link you to it and describe anything I did differently (I only have 1 assignment where I used a guide). You can’t work on a layer if its visibility eye isn’t showing, but activating it to work on is as simple as clicking again on the visibility eye. Those that are higher up have priority over those that are positioned further down the palette.
If you want more control over exporting it, you can hit “Export As” and then select your options to other formats, change the size, etc. This new layer, once we cut out your sim, will allow us to see errors so we can correct them.
This is why I said not to use related colors, however, this can sometimes happen with the smallest things, like black eyelashes when using a black background. Grab your choice tool, then choose the “Subtract from Current Selection” mode at the bottom.
As I said in the tips, if you use everything at full size and strength, your work becomes a horribly smudged mess and you want to avoid doing that. Continue to do this until you get to the area you stopped at with the first picture (probably slightly above it just in case).
A daguerreotype, produced on a silver-plated copper sheet, produces a mirror image photograph of the exposed scene. The Government, which has been only too generous to Monsieur Daguerre, has said it can do nothing for Monsieur Bayard, and the poor wretch has drowned himself.


Before we tackle our problem colours and tones, it makes sense to improve the composition first.
If you want to make it more compatible with the web (for different screens and such) you would hit “Save For Web” and then change the settings there. If you don’t use a solid color, you may have to do it either multiple times or the colorful background has a color related to your sims outfit and will delete part of that outfit.
This mode can also be used on your Fuzzy and Select color, however, when you use it on the selected areas it removes the related color from the background as well, which gives you more work to do. If the brush erases the background outside the selection, you need to invert it by going to the “Select” tab, then hit “Invert”.
If the brush erases the background outside the selection, you need to invert it by going to the “Select” tab, then hit “Inverse”.
If the edges are large, you will most likely be using liquify or combining smudging, erasing, and drawing.
While the edges come away having a faint glow and look slightly blurry, this is a much better alternative to the jagged lines we see.
Or as I said you can erase the edges before blurring, but both can be a bit difficult since some people have shakey hands with the mouse, like me. Chemistry student Robert Cornelius was so fascinated by the chemical process involved in Daguerrea€™s work that he sought to make some improvements himself. There’s really no need to do this, as far as I can tell, but it also allows you to save as a gif so it has a few uses. After checking your settings move your mouse over to the background and click on it (never the sim or clothes for cutting). So select your background with either the Color Range or Magic Wand Tool, fix any over selection you need to, expand the selection, and then either delete the background or ignore it.
Also, when you place the sim on a background the faint glow will blend into the background and will no longer be a problem.
It was commercially introduced in 1839, a date generally accepted as the birth year of practical photography.The metal-based daguerreotype process soon had some competition from the paper-based calotype negative and salt print processes invented by Henry Fox Talbot. And in 1839 Cornelius shot a self-portrait daguerrotype that some historians believe was the first modern photograph of a man ever produced. For over two weeks in the summer of 2002, scientists and conservators at this prestigious facility subjected the artifact, its frame, and support materials to extensive and rigorous non-destructive testing.
As you can see, the code we want is PNG, so we type at the very top, behind the name of the file, “.png”.
This is normally on a low setting, but if you turned it up one day to remove more of the background (like from the hair), then it will overselect on other backgrounds.
This is normally on a low setting, but if you turned it up one day to remove more of the background (like from the hair), then it will over select on other backgrounds. Ignoring it doesn’t work if the background is smaller in width or height, so if you ignore it make sure to crop the edges first. Bring all of them into your editing program, move them on top of each other in the right order, and then do your best to combine them. The result was a very complete scientific and technical analysis of the object, which in turn provided better criteria for its secure and permanent case design and presentation in the lobby of the newly-renovated Harry Ransom Center.The plate also received extensive attention from the photographic technicians at the Institute, who spent a day and a half with the original heliograph in their photographic studios in order to record photographically and digitally all aspects of the plate. Moving the threshold up will make the selections stronger, but this sometimes causes overselection.
Moving the tolerance up will make the selections stronger, but this sometimes causes over selection. So select your background with either the Fuzzy or Select Color Tool, fix any over selection you need to, grow the selection, and then either delete the background or ignore it. The object was documented under all manner of scientific lights, including infrared and ultraviolet spectra.
Moving it down will lower the selection but can lead to less selection and leave behind the background. If you do, Ctrl + Left click on the very tiny image of your model to reselect, or undo the action (Cmd + Left Click if Mac).
Long before the first photographs were made, Chinese philosopher Mo Ti and Greek mathematicians Aristotle and Euclid described a pinhole camera in the 5th and 4th centuries BCE.
To remove the over selection undo your last action and then drag your threshold down a bit (so from 40 to 25 maybe) and then try clicking again.
To remove the over selection undo your last action and then drag your tolerance down a bit (so from 40 to 25 maybe) and then try clicking again. If you do, Alt + Left click on the very tiny image of your model to reselect, or undo the action. In the 6th century CE, Byzantine mathematician Anthemius of Tralles used a type of camera obscura in his experimentsIbn al-Haytham (Alhazen) (965 in Basra a€“ c.
If you are having problems still after several tries, you will need to use the other option.
Wilhelm Homberg described how light darkened some chemicals (photochemical effect) in 1694.
The novel Giphantie (by the French Tiphaigne de la Roche, 1729a€“74) described what could be interpreted as photography.Around the year 1800, Thomas Wedgwood made the first known attempt to capture the image in a camera obscura by means of a light-sensitive substance.
As with the bitumen process, the result appeared as a positive when it was suitably lit and viewed. A strong hot solution of common salt served to stabilize or fix the image by removing the remaining silver iodide.
On 7 January 1839, this first complete practical photographic process was announced at a meeting of the French Academy of Sciences, and the news quickly spread. At first, all details of the process were withheld and specimens were shown only at Daguerre's studio, under his close supervision, to Academy members and other distinguished guests. Paper with a coating of silver iodide was exposed in the camera and developed into a translucent negative image. Unlike a daguerreotype, which could only be copied by rephotographing it with a camera, a calotype negative could be used to make a large number of positive prints by simple contact printing. The calotype had yet another distinction compared to other early photographic processes, in that the finished product lacked fine clarity due to its translucent paper negative. This was seen as a positive attribute for portraits because it softened the appearance of the human face. Talbot patented this process,[20] which greatly limited its adoption, and spent many years pressing lawsuits against alleged infringers. He attempted to enforce a very broad interpretation of his patent, earning himself the ill will of photographers who were using the related glass-based processes later introduced by other inventors, but he was eventually defeated. Nonetheless, Talbot's developed-out silver halide negative process is the basic technology used by chemical film cameras today. Hippolyte Bayard had also developed a method of photography but delayed announcing it, and so was not recognized as its inventor.In 1839, John Herschel made the first glass negative, but his process was difficult to reproduce. The new formula was sold by the Platinotype Company in London as Sulpho-Pyrogallol Developer.Nineteenth-century experimentation with photographic processes frequently became proprietary.
This adaptation influenced the design of cameras for decades and is still found in use today in some professional cameras. Petersburg, Russia studio Levitsky would first propose the idea to artificially light subjects in a studio setting using electric lighting along with daylight. In 1884 George Eastman, of Rochester, New York, developed dry gel on paper, or film, to replace the photographic plate so that a photographer no longer needed to carry boxes of plates and toxic chemicals around. Now anyone could take a photograph and leave the complex parts of the process to others, and photography became available for the mass-market in 1901 with the introduction of the Kodak Brownie.A practical means of color photography was sought from the very beginning.
Results were demonstrated by Edmond Becquerel as early as 1848, but exposures lasting for hours or days were required and the captured colors were so light-sensitive they would only bear very brief inspection in dim light.The first durable color photograph was a set of three black-and-white photographs taken through red, green and blue color filters and shown superimposed by using three projectors with similar filters. It was taken by Thomas Sutton in 1861 for use in a lecture by the Scottish physicist James Clerk Maxwell, who had proposed the method in 1855.[27] The photographic emulsions then in use were insensitive to most of the spectrum, so the result was very imperfect and the demonstration was soon forgotten. Maxwell's method is now most widely known through the early 20th century work of Sergei Prokudin-Gorskii.
Included were methods for viewing a set of three color-filtered black-and-white photographs in color without having to project them, and for using them to make full-color prints on paper.[28]The first widely used method of color photography was the Autochrome plate, commercially introduced in 1907.
If the individual filter elements were small enough, the three primary colors would blend together in the eye and produce the same additive color synthesis as the filtered projection of three separate photographs. Autochrome plates had an integral mosaic filter layer composed of millions of dyed potato starch grains. Reversal processing was used to develop each plate into a transparent positive that could be viewed directly or projected with an ordinary projector. The mosaic filter layer absorbed about 90 percent of the light passing through, so a long exposure was required and a bright projection or viewing light was desirable. Competing screen plate products soon appeared and film-based versions were eventually made.
A complex processing operation produced complementary cyan, magenta and yellow dye images in those layers, resulting in a subtractive color image. Kirsch at the National Institute of Standards and Technology developed a binary digital version of an existing technology, the wirephoto drum scanner, so that alphanumeric characters, diagrams, photographs and other graphics could be transferred into digital computer memory. The lab was working on the Picturephone and on the development of semiconductor bubble memory. The essence of the design was the ability to transfer charge along the surface of a semiconductor. Michael Tompsett from Bell Labs however, who discovered that the CCD could be used as an imaging sensor.



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