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Author: admin | 22.02.2015 | Category: Relieve Tinnitus

I have had my 2008 Escape for almost 2 years and have had it in the dealer 4 different times for a clicking noise that comes and goes and seems to be behind the center cluster? I have heard this clicking and other assorted noises with my 08, most notably after getting the driver AC blend door repaired when we could not get heat out of the driver side vents (top or bottom). Sorry, hard to say what it is without hearing, but maybe it's some relays that are kicking a fan or pump on? Running with DVGreen's idea, I broke out the big green books (workshop manuals) and tried to figure out that that part is.
Any powered external speakers I connect to my laptop make a buzzing noise when my laptop is plugged in. The buzzing is louder if my display brightness is low, and especially loud if the display is turned off.
The buzzing happens with any power outlet: I've tested it in several buildings in two different cities. The volume of the buzzing does not change if I adjust the volume on either my computer or my speakers. The peak just to the right of the 100 Hz line is centered at 120 Hz, which is double the frequency of the AC power here. I'm betting your PC is sending extra power to them when it can spare it, and it translates as buzzing. The odd thing about the power supply hash explanation is that it's heard only with amplified devices. I've had it in the past, (Dell and Sony laptops), where I had to use an adapter that prevents ground from connecting on the laptop power supply cable, and the noise stopped.


Not saying that this is the solution to your problem, but it has completely eliminated the issue for me a few years back. Hey man my issue was a lot of laptops have audio enhancers and if you turn them off it may help.
I am not sure but most likely reason for buzzing is that your electrical outlet(s) is not grounded. I have no idea if that is the case here as you seems to have strange results with different outputs.
I had a similar problem with an external speaker being plugged into the USB port on my laptop, with the aux cable jack directly next to it.
Not the answer you're looking for?Browse other questions tagged laptop audio thinkpad speakers or ask your own question.
Is it possible to improve brute-force guessing of a password with a picture of the keyboard used to enter it? While I can now get heat out of the system, it gets wonky when on auto as the cabin reaches set temp, the passenger side blows noticeably warmer air, and the driver side attempts to compensate (it appears to anyway) by blowing even cooler air, which then causes the passenger side to get even hotter. I also have battery-powered noise-canceling headphones that make the buzzing if noise canceling is enabled. I have also tried plugging the speakers into a separate outlet from the laptop (one connected to a different circuit breaker), but the buzzing persists.
For example, if I run two instances of yes (one for each CPU core), I don't hear anything out of the speakers. In a computer's power supply, a constant voltage is maintained by a component that switches the power to a storage capacitor on and off very rapidly.


But I think the 'blend door' is probably right, assuming that's some sort of actuated damper on the vents back in the dash. This leads me to believe that the issue isn't due to some sort of ground loop (and this is supported by the fact that the buzzing happens with the battery-powered noise-canceling headphones). Assuming you're running Windows, download and run Lenovo's ThinkVantage System Update utility and install any available audio driver updates. The one that doesn't cause the buzzing is the 65 W supply shipped with a ThinkPad T520i.
We found on a long trip it was best to set the passenger side about 3? cooler, but it always required occasional adjustments up or down, so eventually you go the manual route. What's odd, the few short (less than 20-30secs) it didn't seem [brain dead moment, symetric] like a fan would make at a constant rpm, it was more random spaced.
If so, see if you can reproduce the issue when your laptop is plugged into their power supply.
I have not had a chance to take the vehicle back in to get this "fixed." I have a feeling the tech just needs to replace one or both of the blend doors, but we will see.
It definatly sounds like it's the bottom of the center console, pass side maybe, so like you say it seems it could be that part. If the ferrite core has become detached from the end of your laptop's power cable, that could also be the cause.



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