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Author: admin | 07.02.2014 | Category: Tinnitus Hearing Loss

Model #ALE643RBW, this electric dryer started making a loud thumping noise recently that has become progressively worse since it began. My fridge makes a bang noise when it shuts off: Sorry to say most times this is a faulty compressor. Every time the fridge begins to cycle through its cooling phase, the compressor and Loud Noise From the Refrigerator. If it is humming or making a continuous noise and your refrigerator is three components on the outside back of the refrigerator that may become noisy: the compressor Then plug the refrigerator back in and if the noise is gone the fan is bad and needs replacing.
I have a Kenmore Coldspot refrigerator (model 106.70182001) that is roughly five years old. I have an 8 year old Kenmore refrigerator that the compressor started to make a clanging sound when it shuts off, Any ideas? An Amana LE1100W consumer clothes dryer normally makes some noise like c, whirling and pulsating sounds. I have a Amana dryer and every time i turn it on it makes a really loud noise and it continues to make the noise as it runs.
To start the dryer you would have to open the door and hold the door switch and Gas Dryers with Noise Problems. The function of the start relay is to momentarily energize the start winding in the compressor I have a Kitchenaid Supurba Model # KSRG25FKSS15 that I bought in 2004.
A refrigerator keeps your food cold, and it shouldn Discuss Fridge compressor has loud buzzing noise in Refrigerator Freezer Repair. If the noise doesn’t go away then the compressor is bad (provided that steady noise, and your refrigerator is still not cooling properly, there could be a problem with one or more various components. Recently, it's developed a vibration noise, when the compressor is not OMG-loud or anything, but it This must be due to the fact that your refrigerator compressor has malfunctioned.This happens How To Eat Without Making Noise?
For about a year now I've heard a thud, which I assume occurs when the GE Refrigerator shut off noise?
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This means that all dryers have to have a blower to move air and a heat source to warm the air, and that airflow is very important. If you do not read Chapter 2 thoroughly before you read this chapter, you probably will not be able to properly diagnose your machine!!!!This machine was originally designed by Norge, who was later bought by Maycor (Maytag.) In the latest incarnation, Maycor is putting out their version of the old Norge design as "Performa" model Maytag machines, as well as Magic Chef, Admiral and Crosley brands. Our dryer starts making a horribly loud noise soon after it begins tumbling and the contents get very hot, requiring us to shut it down. If the refrigerator is making a loud bang or clunking noise, the problem is most likely failed mounts in the compressor.
This website distributes this material without profit to those who have expressed a prior interest in receiving the included information for research and educational purposes. It also means that all dryers must have a way to toss the clothes around a bit, because air won't circulate through them if they're just laying there in a big wet lump. Maytag "Atlantis" machines are basically souped-up Performas, with more solid-state controls and digital gadgetry.Note that Signature (Montgomery Ward) machines were, at various times over the last 20 years or so, built to either a Norge or Frigidaire design. Posted in Dryer, Repair Help Tags: amana, dryer, ge, kenmore, loud, maytag, noisy, roper, whirlpool Why is my Amana dryer making a loud squeaking noise as it tumbles? When the power goes out while the compressor is running Don't know what's the cause of that annoying sound coming from the refrigerator? Please look at both this chapter and chapter 10, Frigidaire, and figure out what kind of machine you have before you try to diagnose it!7a-1 BASIC OPERATION (Figure N-1)Performa machines use a direct reversing drive motor to change from agitate to the spin cycle.
I don’t think its the drum rollers because it only makes the noise when the dryer starts to get warm.
Dryer belt tension is controlled by a heavy spring, which eliminates noise issues from the belt.
After owning several Amana refrigeration products I thought the Amana dryer would be just as dependable as the refrigerators. The motor is mounted on plastic mounts that slide in tracks in the baseplate of the machine. Ignitor systems and holding coils on the gas safety valves have varied slightly over the years, but you can find the diagnosis and repair procedures for all gas burners covered by this manual in section 2-3. A temperature control system keeps the air at the optimum temperature for drying and prevents scorching of your clothes. I looked around outside even laid out on my grass in my yard to try to get a sense of where it was coming from .
During the spin cycle, the whole transmission casing spins around; a clutch built into the transmission allows the transmission to accelerate slowly, allowing for a "pre-pump" action. Finding the thermostats is discussed in the chapter pertaining to your model. There is also a safety system that prevents the heating system from starting at all unless the blower is turning. In more recent models, a cam in the transmission pulley hub allows the brake to engage when the motor is turning in the "agitate" direction, but releases it when the motor turns in the "spin" direction.
I did seem to sense a slight vibration from the ground.  I am not sure about that as it could have also been caused by the glass of wine I had with me! I was ready to post this article as it reads above when  today brought a new experience to my neck of the woods. For the purposes of this book, these machines will be referred to as pre-1990 or post-1990 machines, identifiable by the presence or absence of a brake band at the bottom of the transmission housing.
Today we felt the earthquake that hit along the east coast.   I was sitting in my living room with two of my family members in a big wooden rocking chair.
This is accomplished in one of two ways.In most machines, the timer holds the brake for a minute and a half or so at the beginning of the spin cycle while the pump starts draining the tub. We jumped up to run out of the house as we did not know if the house was going to collapse. Over a period of years, enough can build up enough to allow some of the above symptoms to occur.
The airflow system is discussed in section 2-5, except for drum seals, which are discussed in the chapter pertaining to your brand of dryer. In most models, the blower is the last component in the airflow system. It was very odd. After the shock of it was over I started to think about that  Hum noise  the week before.
It is simply a pressure switch that senses water level in the tub, and releases the brake at the appropriate water level. I had to wonder if  it had been a warning from mother nature that this was going to happen. Long Island sits in the Atlantic Ocean. In a few very old pre-1990 machines, there is a solenoid-activated clutch that works in conjunction with the brake. If you have a separate timer and temperature control, consider yourself lucky; the combined units are considerably more difficult to diagnose and generally more expensive to replace. So most repairs stem from just a few common complaints: 1) NOISY OPERATIONA vast majority of these complaints stem from drum supports that have worn out. It usually sounds like a loud, low-pitched rumbling sound that slowly gets worse over a period of several months or even years. This is a very common complaint in Whirlpool or Kenmore brand dryers about 7 to 15 years old. See the chapter about your brand for specifics about replacing the drum support rollers.   In some models, notably GE, if a belt breaks, the belt tensioner will touch the drive motor shaft and a loud grinding or clattering noise will result. The first thing to determine is whether or not the motor is turning, and the belt is turning the transmission. If not, you may have belt problems, timer or motor problems, or speed selector switch or lid switch problems as described in Chapter 2. This can happen in Whirlpool or Kenmore dryers, as well as some other brands, though it is infrequent. To solve the problem, open the top of ther dryer as described in the Whirlpool section, then remove the plastic vane on the inside of the dryer drum by removing the screws on the outside of the dryer drum that hold it in place. In some models, notably Maytag and Frigidaire machines, things can get by the lint screen (like pencils and pens) and get stuck in the blower wheel.


The brake spring is heavily pre-loaded and requires some special tools to remove and install safely. Again, it's a loud grinding sound, as if you were sticking something into a moving blower fan.
See section 7a-6. A rattling noise can indicate a worn flexible rubber bushing in the motor drive pulley hub. See the section about your brand for details about how to get to the blower in your machine.2) NOT DRYING WELL(See also NO HEAT below) Usually this is caused by poor airflow. Feel the dryer vent exhaust (usually outside the house.) If there isn't a strong blast of air coming out, check the lint screen and open up any dryer vent you can get to to check for clogging. This may also come across as a sound like a jet engine or a Ferrari taking off as the machine accelerates into the spin cycle (an accelerating whe-e-e-e-e sound).
Also check any flexible dryer vent for pinching. In some machines, if the drum is not turning, there will be no noise or other external symptoms. This is often accompanied by water leaking from the tub seal above the transmission; look around the inside walls of the cabinet for signs of water slinging off the transmission during the spin cycle. In pre-1990 models, a rumbling or growling sound can also indicate bad bearings in the transmission drive pulley assembly.
To diagnose, start the machine empty, open the door and look inside quickly, or depress the door switch to see if the drum is turning.
To repair, see the chapter about your brand. You may see similar symptoms if the motor has gone bad, except that you probably will not hear the motor turning. The baseplate and cabinet quickly rust, and the baseplate suspension spring mounts or even the suspension springs themselves may crack or break.
See section 2-4(d) about motors. 3) NO HEAT, OR LOW HEAT This can be caused by poor airflow in all dryers, but especially in gas dryers. If a suspension spring on one side is broken or disabled, the washer will vibrate badly.You can try to replace a broken suspension spring (if you must replace one, you must replace the whole set). Check the dryer vent and exhaust as described in NOT DRYING WELL above. This can also be caused by a problem with the air heating system within the dryer. You will find the brake assembly mounted to the plate near the bottom of the transmission (Figure N-1a). Check the dryer vent and exhaust as described in NOT DRYING WELL above.   2-3 GAS BURNERSTo access the burner assembly, open the gas burner inspection door. Check the brake solenoid and dashpot (if installed) Also check the linkage and the brake band.
Replace if defective. Though the brake solenoid is relatively easy to replace, the brake band is extremely difficult, requiring special tools. If the lining or band needs service, or if the brake is squealing, call a qualified service technician or junk the washer.7a-4 PUMP (Figure N-3)The pump is accessed through the rear cabinet panel. If it is glowing, you will hear another click, the gas valve will open and the flame will kick on. Make sure these tracks are free of any detergent buildup or anything else that might restrict the free movement of the motor. If the pulley literally flops around on its hub with the belt tension removed from it, that's what's happened. To prevent motor bearing damage when you tap it on, make sure you remove the plastic shaft cover on the other end of the motor and back up the shaft against something solid.
The bearing within the plate can get rusted or worn, causing noise and excessive belt wear. If this happens, call a qualified service technician. The transmission drive pulley in post-1990 machines is made of a plastic material. When disassembling this assembly, count the pieces beneath the pulley; there should be six. When this bearing gets severely worn, the lower washer will embed itself into the plastic pulley, and you may only count five pieces.
There may be powdered plastic or metal residue or pieces of the pulley on the other bearing assembly parts. Bring the burner assembly to your parts dealer to make sure you get the right coil assembly, and don't forget to bring the model number of the machine.   IGNITOR GLOWS, BUT FLAME DOES NOT START (GAS VALVE DOES NOT OPEN)(PILOTLESS SYSTEMS ONLY) Either the flame sensor is not working properly or the safety solenoid coils are not opening the gas valve.
The symptom will be that the basket is not spinning; the reason is that due to the wear in this bearing, the brake is not lifting enough to release and allow the transmission to spin. It is an especially common problem in installations where the dryer exhaust runs a long way before venting to the outside. The brake should release when the drive pulley hub shoulder is between 3 and 9 marks on the lower cam. Test as described in the section above, "IGNITOR DOESN'T GLOW". Occasionally this problem can be caused by a bad thermostat. However, the brake spring is loaded to 200 pounds and requires a special tool (number 35-2442) to remove. Your parts distributor may have one in stock, but for most distributors it is usually a special order.7a-7 TRANSMISSIONIf you have upper or lower spin bearing or tub seal leakage problems, you will probably end up junking the washer. And speaking of parts costs, the upper bearing surface is the transmission casing itself, and usually the whole transmission must be replaced due to rust and wear. The set screw in the drive block is usually corroded so badly that it cannot be removed. If you have symptoms that indicate a transmission problem, you might try calling a qualified service technician. However, be forewarned: if you can find a technician who's willing to do the job, it will probably cost you 350 dollars or more. It's unpleasant, but unless exposure is more than a second or so, the only harm it usually does is to tick you off pretty good.
It's not worth dying for. Sometimes you need to read a wiring diagram, to make sure you are not forgetting to check something. It is ESPECIALLY important in diagnosing a bad timer. If you already know how to read a wiring diagram, you can skip this section. If you're one of those folks who's a bit timid around electricity, all I can say is read on, and don't be too nervous. You learned how to use a VOM in Chapter 1, right? Each component should be labelled clearly on your diagram. To test a switch with a certain marking, mark and disconnect all the wires from your timer. For example, in figure G-6, if you want to test the hi-temp selector switch, connect one lead to the M and one to the H terminal. If it does, you know that contact inside the switch is good. Remember that for something to be energized, it must make a complete electrical circuit. You must be able to trace the path that the electricity will take, FROM the wall outlet back TO the wall outlet. Sometimes they will be labelled L1 and N, but they are still 110 volt leads. Let's say you need to check out why the heater is not working. Since a burnt out heater element is the most likely cause of this symptom, first test the heater for continuity.
This switch is located inside of the timer (you know this because it is drawn with thick lines) and it must be closed.
In this example, we have set the temperature on "low." Note that in this machine, on this setting, the electricity flows through both the high-temp and low-temp operating thermostats. The electricity then flows through the high limit thermostat, so it too must be closed and show good continuity. The electricity flows through the heater, which we have already tested and we know is good. Then the electricity flows through the centrifugal switch, which must be closed, before going back out the main power cord (L2).   To test for the break in the circuit, simply isolate each part of the system (remove the wires from the terminals) and test for continuity.


For example, to test the thermostats in our example, pull the wires off each thermostat and test continuity across the thermostat terminals as described in section 2-4(c). The Y-DB switch is shown in bold lines, so it is inside the timer.
However, if you can identify the proper leads, you can use your alligator jumpers to jump across them.
You may need to use jumpers to extend or even bypass the wire; for example, if one end of the wire is in the control console and the other end in underneath the machine.
It will then be up to you to figure out exactly where that break is; there is no magic way. In addition to telling the motor when to run, it may also activate the heating circuit or heating control circuits, humidity-sensing circuits, etc. Solid state timers are difficult and expensive to diagnose. If you suspect a timer problem in a solid-state system, you can try replacing it, but remember that it's expensive and non-returnable (being an electrical part.) If you have one of these units that's defective, you can check into the cost of replacing it, but it's been my experience that you usually will end up just replacing the whole dryer or calling a technician. If you do call a technician, make sure you ask up front whether they work on solid-state controls. Most timers are nothing more than a motor that drives a set of cams which open and close switches. Yet it is one of the most expensive parts in your dryer, so don't be too quick to diagnose it as the problem. Replace the timer or timer drive motor, or have it rebuilt as described below. Timers can be difficult to diagnose.
If none of the other components are bad, then it may be the timer. Remember that a timer is simply a set of on-off switches. Following the shaded circuit in figure G-7, you test the door switch, push-to-start switch and centrifugal switch. Make sure the timer is in the "on" position and slowly turn the timer all the way through a full cycle. Be patient!) You should see continuity make and break at least once in the cycle; usually several times. If it's a common one, your parts dealer may even have a rebuilt one in stock. For the most part, if your timer is acting up, you need to replace it. Sorry to be the bearer of bad tidings, but in my experience, you will usually end up getting rid of the machine.?Copyright 2011 GOFAR Services, LLC. There may be several different thermostats side by side; for example 135 degrees for low temperature, 165 for high temperature, etc. Naturally, it is a bit more expensive than regular thermostats, and difficult to test. You can test a thermostat as described in section 1-4(b) by testing for continuity across its terminals.
A cold cool-down stat should show no continuity. If a thermostat fails into a closed position, there is a danger that the heating system will continue operating until something catches fire.
Replace it. THERMISTORSA thermistor is a "variable resistor" whose resistance varies with temperature.
Rather than just turning the heating circuit on and off as thermostats do, dryers with solid-state (computer logic board) controls can use a thermistor's input to control the drum temperature more closely.
This can result in lower energy usage. Thermistors are tested by measuring resistance across them with a VOM. This is done in one of two ways. When the air in the drum is moist, the water in it absorbs heat to evaporate. This keeps the air temperature lower, and it takes longer to heat up.   The thermostat on the drum exhaust will keep the heating system on longer.
In these systems, that same thermostat controls the timer motor; while the heating system is on, the timer motor is not running, and vice-versa. So when the clothes get drier, the exhaust air temperature gets higher more quickly, the heating system doesn't stay on for as long and the timer motor runs more, ending the cycle sooner. The thermostats in these machines have three leads. If the symptoms lead you to suspect that yours is defective, just replace it. Besides heating more slowly, moist air also conducts electricity better than dry air. So another way the engineers design a humidity sensor is to put two electrical contacts inside the dryer drum. The electrical currents conducted by the air are so low that an electronic circuit is needed to sense when the air is moist, but essentially the same thing happens in this system as in the other.
When the air is dry, the timer motor runs longer and times out sooner. The sensors in these machines tend to get coated with gummy stuff, especially if you use a lot of fabric softener in the wash or starch in ironing. The circuit board could have gone bad, too; there is no good way to test it with out a lot of expensive equipment. The problem is that the heater operates on 220 volts, but the timer motor runs on 110 volts. There is a resistor in the system to cut down the voltage (see figure G-6(a) and if this resistor is bad, you will see the same symptoms as if the thermostat was bad: the timer motor will not run in the automatic cycle.
If you have one of these dryers, make sure you test the resistor for continuity, in addition to the thermostat. OTHER TEMPERATURE CONTROLS Selecting which thermostat is used may be done inside the timer, or there may be a separate multi-switch that accomplishes this. So much, in fact, that if it is allowed to continue being energized in a stalled state, it will start burning wires. To prevent this, an overload switch is installed on motors to cut power to them if they don't start within a certain amount of time. If the motor is trying to start, but can't, you will hear certain things. In some extreme cases, you may even smell burning. If you hear the motor doing this, but it won't start, disconnect power and take all the load off it.
If you have an ammeter, the stalled motor will be drawing 10 to 20 amps or more. STARTING SWITCH Dryers have a centrifugal starting switch mounted piggyback on the motor. There are many sets of contacts inside the switch, and each design is different, even among dryers of the same brand. Testing the switch is most easily accomplished by replacing it. Remember that starting switches are electrical parts, which are generally not returnable.
If you test the switch by replacing it, and the problem turns out to be the motor itself, you will probably not be able to return the starting switch for a refund. When buying a new motor, make sure that the pulley can be changed over, or else get a new pulley with the new motor.
It may save you a second trip to the parts dealer.   2-4(e) IGNITORSYou can test the ignitor by testing for resistance across the element.
Like ignitors, they should show quite a bit of resistance, and defective heaters will usually show no continuity at all.2-4(g) TERMINAL BLOCKIn most electric dryer installations, there is a 220 volt wall plug. If the dryer does not seem to be getting power, but you do have power at the wall outlet, you also need to check the terminal block for problems as shown below.
Replace it if there is any sign of problems. Make sure all wiring is clear and make sure you don't touch any bare wires or terminals, plug the dryer back in briefly, and check the terminal block for power across all three legs as described in sections 1-4(a) and 2-4. Then remove power again at the breaker or fuse.2-5 AIRFLOWAirflow is EXTREMELY important in EVERY dryer. It can come on suddenly (like if something happens to the dryer vent outside the house) or it can show up as a progressive problem, as lint slowly builds up in the dryer exhaust system.First, check the lint screen. I think it's a tribute to Whirlpool engineering that the thing was still running at all with that much lint in it. If the lint screen is clean, check the exhaust system between the dryer and the house outlet. A really easy way is to disconnect the exhaust system and run the dryer for a few minutes with it venting directly into the house. If the dryer functions normally, the exhaust system is clogged. If none of the above works, the internal ducting or blower fan is clogged or malfunctioning. Again, it's a loud grinding sound, as if you were sticking something into a moving blower fan.



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