Gable roof shed construction guide,building a concrete storage shed kits,8 x 16 gable shed plans australia,wooden shed for sale nz - Easy Way

A gable shed roof is the easiest to build, and depending on the pitch of the roof, will provide you with some storage space in the attic area. The following information is provided to you as a guideline and is intended to be used in conjunction with the user checking with local building authorities to make sure all building practices conform to local building codes.
Now, one other important factor to remember is that you never, never want the pitch of your roof to be less then 15A°, unless you plan on going with a metal roof. What do we do now?Based on the fact that c= almost 8', we are going to at least need an 8'- 2x4 to build this gable shed roof rafter.
Now we can measure exactly what the measurements will be for your gable shed roof rafter or truss half that will span your shed exactly 12' and give you an inside height of 5' from your top plate to the inside of the top of the truss pieces.
The following picture shows all the pertinent measurements you will need to cut your first rafter or truss half.
Make your truss by putting the 2 pieces together on the line you snapped for your top plate. Trusses are attached to the top plate by using 3-16d common nails toe-nailed from the truss end into the top plate, 2 on one side, and one on the other. Headers For Windows and Doors Feb 07, 16 10:01 AMHow to make headers for door and window openings in your shed framing.
Pictures of Sheds, Storage Shed Plans, Shed Designs Dec 27, 15 10:46 AMVisit our library of pictures of sheds built from our shed plans. Awesome 10x12 Barn Shed Dec 27, 15 10:41 AMSee how Jason built his very own 10x12 barn shed and had a great time doing it.
DESIGNS LEARNING OBJECTIVE: Upon completing this section, you should be able to describe procedures for the layout and installation of members of gable, hip, intersecting, and shed roof designs. Now if you have done any looking around this site, you'll quickly see that I am not a fan of using a ridge beam in shed construction. This style of shed roof is one of the most common and can be utilized for building playhouses, garden sheds, utility sheds and more. Better go with a 10' piece because we want to have a rafter tail that will give us a side overhang for our shed.Take this 2x4 and snap a chalk line down the middle of it on the flat side. At exactly the middle of this line, (a = 6' )draw a line up perpendicular the distance equal to 'b', or 5'.
The truss should fit exactly so that the 'birds mouth' sits right exactly where the top plate is.
Your local building codes may also require the use of hurricane ties for each truss member where it rests on the top plate. Water, in the form of rain or melting ice and snow will very easily work its way up under the shingles and down through your roof sheeting, causing much damage.
Now take your chalk line and snap a line from the top of your 'b' line, down to the outside end of your 'a' line. Once you have the measurements done, you can cut your board, duplicate on a second board, and you will then have a complete truss or 2 rafter halves to nail to a ridge board. Given the fact that A=6' and lets say you want 5' from the top of your shed walls to your roof peak (inside). In this section, we will examine various calculations, layouts, cutting procedures, and assembly requirements required for efficient construction. With this in mind, once you build your floor to these measurements and have erected your walls, the distance from the outside of one wall to the opposite wall will be 12'.
The 12' line you snapped earlier will represent the top plate of your shed, and the outside corners of this line will be the outside edges of your side walls top plate. The run of the overhang, called the projection, is the horizontal distance from the building line to the tail cut on the rafter. The rafter table makes it possible to find the lengths of all types of rafters for pitched roofs, with unit of rises ranging from 2 inches to 18 inches.
Since the roof in this example has a 7-inch unit of rise, locate the number 7 at the top of the square. This means that a common rafter with a 7-inch unit of rise will be 13.89 inches long for every unit of run.
To find the length of the rafter, multiply 13.89 inches by the number of feet in the total run.
To change .75 inch to a fraction of an inch, multiply by 16 (for an answer expressed in sixteenths of an inch). The actual length (as opposed to the theoretical length) of a ratler is the distance from the heel plumb line to the shortened ridge plumb line (fig. Set the blade of the square along the plumb line with the heel at the mark just made and strike a line along the tongue.
Line the tongue up with the last 12-inch mark and make a second 12-inch mark along the bottom of the blade.


If, however, the building walls are out of line, adjustments will have to be made on the rafters. However, many Builders prefer to cut the overhang after the rafters are fastened to the ridgeboard and wall plates.
A line is snapped from one end of the building to the other, and the tail plumb line is marked with a sliding T-bevel, also called a bevel square.
Fascia boards are often nailed to the tail ends of the common rafters to serve as a finish piece at the edge of the roof. By extending past the gable ends of the house, common rafters also help to support the basic rafters. If a window or vent is to be installed in the gable, measure one-half of the opening size on each side of the center line and make a mark for the first stud. Starting at this mark layout the stud spacing (that is, 16 or 24 inches on center [OC]) to the outside of the building.
Plumb the gable-end stud on the first mark and mark it where it contacts the bottom of the rafter, as shown in figure 2-29, view A. Measure and mark 3 inches above this mark and notch the stud to the depth equal to the thickness of the rafter, as shown in view B. Place the framing square on the stud to the cut of the roof (6 and 12 inches for this example). Slide the square along this line in the direction of the arrow at B until the desired spacing between the studs (16 inches for this example) is at the intersection of the line drawn at A and the edge of the stud.
This means the angle of slope on the roof end or ends is the same as the angle of slope on the sides. A roof framing diagram may be included among the working drawings; if not, you should lay one out for yourself. Then, one-half the span, which is the same as the total run of a common rafter, is 15 feet. Since a hip rafter joins the ridge at the same height as a common rafter, the total rise for a hip rafter is the same as the total rise for a common rafter. For the roof on which you are working, the total run of common rafter is exactly 15 feet; this means that you would step off the hip-rafter cut (17 inches and 8 inches) exactly 15 times. The size of the ridge-end shortening allowance for a hip rafter depends upon the way the ridge end of the hip rafter is joined to the other structural members. As shown in figure 2-31, the ridge end of the hip rafter can be framed against the ridgeboard (view A) or against the ridge-end common rafters (view B). To calculate the actual length, deduct one-half the 45° thickness of the ridge piece that fits between the rafters from the theoretical length. The 45° thickness of stock is the length of a line laid at 45° across the thickness dimension of the stock.
If the hip rafter is framed against the common rafter, the shortening allowance is one-half of the 45° thickness of a common rafter.
When stepping off the length of the overhang, set the 17-inch mark on the blade of the square even with the edge of the rafter. Place the tongue of the framing square along the ridge cut line, as shown, and measure off one-half the thickness of the hip rafter along the blade.
Then, turn the rafter edge-up, draw an edge centerline, and draw in the angle of the side cut, as indicated in the lower view of figure 2-33.
For a hip rafter to be framed against the ridge, there will be only a single side cut, as indicated by the dotted line in the figure. For one to be framed against the ridge ends of the common rafters, there will be a double side cut, as shown in the figure.
The tail of the rafter must have a double side cut at the same angle, but in the reverse direction. When the plumb (heel) cut and level (seat) cut lines are laid out for a bird’s-mouth on a hip rafter, set the body of the square at 17 inches and the tongue to the unit of rise (for example, 8 inches-depending on the roof pitch) (fig. When laying out the depth of the heel for the bird’s-mouth, measure along the heel plumb line down from the top edge of the rafter a distance equal to the same dimension on the common rafter. This must be done so that the hip rafter, which is usually wider than a common rafter, will be level with the common rafters. A pair of valley rafters is placed where the slopes of the roof meet to form a valley between the two sections. These rafters go from the inside corners formed by the two sections of the building to the corners formed by the intersecting ridges. Most roofs having valley rafters are equal-pitch roofs, in which the pitch of the addition or dormer roof is the same as the pitch of the main roof. There are unequal-pitch valley-rafter roofs, but they are quite rare and require special framing methods.


Since the pitch of the addition roof is the same as the pitch of the main roof, equal spans bring the ridge pieces to equal heights. The valley-rafter tail has a double side cut (like the hip-rafter tail) but in the reverse direction. This is because the tail cut on a valley rafter must form an inside, rather than an outside, corner. As indicated in figure 2-39, the ridge-end shortening allowance in this framing situation amounts to one-half of the 45° thickness of the ridge. Since the pitch of the addition roof is the same as the pitch of the main roof, the shorter span of the addition brings the addition ridge down to a lower level than that of the main-roof ridge.
Note that the long valley rafter has a single side cut for framing to the main-roof ridge piece, whereas the short valley rafter is cut square for framing to the long valley rafter.
This means that, in an equal-pitch framing situation, the unit of rise of a jack rafter is always the same as the unit of rise of a common rafter. It is also the common difference of jacks, meaning that the next hip jack will be 2 times 19.23 inches.
The bridge measure of any jack is the same as the bridge measure of a common rafter having the same unit of rise as the jack. You should know by this time how to apply this to the total run of a jack to get the line length.
Therefore, the length of one of these jacks is equal to the common difference of jacks. 9 and 10, and the length of one of these jacks is therefore twice the common difference of jacks. 13 is twice the spacing of jacks OC, and the length is therefore twice the common difference of jacks. A valley jack rafter has a shortening allowance at the upper end, consisting of one-half the 45° thickness of the ridge, and another at the lower end, consisting of one-half the 45° thickness of the valley rafter.
A hip-valley cripple has a shortening allowance at the upper end, consisting of one-half the 45° thickness of the hip rafter, and another at the lower end, consisting of one-half the 45° thickness of the valley rafter. A valley cripple has a shortening allowance at the upper end, consisting of one-half the 45° thickness of the long valley rafter, and another at the lower end, consisting of one-half the 45° thickness of the short valley rafter. View B shows that the length of the ridge on a dormer with sidewalls is the length of the dormer rafter plate, plus one-half the span of the dormer, minus a shortening allowance one-half the thickness of the inside member of the upper double header.
To get the angle of this cut, set the square on the rafter to the cut of the main roof, as shown in the bottom view of figure 2-59.
Measure off the unit of rise of the dormer roof from the heel of the square along the tongue as indicated and make a mark at this point.
The locations are then transferred to the ridge by matching the ridge against a rafter plate.
In an equal-span situation (views A and B), the valley rafter locations on the main-roof ridge lie alongside the addition ridge location. In view A, the distance between the end of the main-roof ridge and the addition ridge location is equal to A plus distance B, distance B being one-half the span of the addition. In view B, the distance between the line length end of the main-roof ridge and the addition ridge location is the same as distance A.
In both cases, the line length of the addition ridge is equal to one-half the span of the addition, plus the length of the addition sidewall rafter plate. The distance between the point where the inboard ends of the valley rafters (both short in this method of framing) tie into the addition ridge and the outboard end of the ridge is equal to one-half the span of the addition, plus the length of the additional ridge (which is equal to one-half of the span of the main roof), plus the length of the addition sidewall rafter plate. Cripples and jack rafters are usually left out until after the headers, hip rafters, valley rafters, and ridges to which they will be framed have been installed.
For a gable roof, the two pairs of gable-end rafters and the ridge are usually erected first.
The braces should then be released, and the pair of rafters at one end should be plumbed with a plumb line, fastened to a stick extended from the end of the ridge. The braces should then be reset, and they should be left in place until enough sheathing has been installed to hold the rafters plumb. Collar ties, if any, are nailed to common rafters with 8d nails, three to each end of a tie. Ridges and ridge-end common rafters are erected next, other addition common rafters next, and valley and cripple jacks last.
When properly nailed, the end of a straightedge laid along the top edge of the jack should contact the centerline of the valley rafter, as shown.



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