Garage hanging shelving ideas,woodworking wood whisperer inlay,new yankee workshop shed plans materials - New On 2016

I’ve done some finish carpentry in the past, but I’m really more of a framer because I like to just throw things together quickly and make them as strong as possible.
I recently built some new garage shelves in the home we have been living in for a couple years now.
Obviously you don’t have to make all the shelves be the same height, but make sure to have at least one of two rows of shelving tall enough for all of your tallest items. Given the length of the walls I was building my shelves on, I bought my wood in the 8 foot lengths. The wall I built these shelves on was about 14 feet long, so I needed two 8 foot sheets of plywood for each row. Once you know the length of the wall, it’s fairly straightforward as far as counting up how many 2x3s and sheets of plywood you need. As you can see in the picture below, I also used the perpendicular wall for increased support.
After screwing and nailing the boards up on to the wall, you can put up the end boards (2x4s). For those with some kind of baseboard in your garage, you will need to take a chisel and notch out a spot for the vertical 2×4 boards that will go on the ends, against the wall. Repeat this process with the next row up, but before you nail the vertical 2×4 to the second row, make sure to level it vertically with your long level.
It’s a little difficult to see in these pictures, but I have also tacked in some support boards between the horizontal beams, coming out perpendicular to the main wall.
As you can see in the picture below, your garage shelves should be strong enough to double as a jungle gym for your kids! One of my goals with this design was that it would be simple enough for almost anyone to build (including myself). Great job, having sold steel shelving for the last 25 years, your system makes great use of the available space, you don’t have to try and fit standard steel shelf bays into the gap. I would suggest trying concrete screws since you really only need the horizontal strength from the wall. What was the spacing you used on the support boards between the horizontal beams, coming out perpendicular to the main wall and did you toe nail at the wall side? I actually only used one perpendicular (from the wall) support piece for the entire length of the shelf because when you nail down the plywood shelving you gain plenty of perpendicular strength and the shelves are not deep enough to warrant perpendicular support beams. The only reason I put one in the middle was to help connect the spot where I had to splice the length of the shelf, and to hold it in place during the framing stage. I’m planning to do my own shelves and found these to be pretty similar to what I had in mind.
With a 4 foot span I’m not sure the 2x3s would be sufficient, especially if you plan on storing a lot of heavy items on them.
If you want to keep the paneling to match the rest of the garage you should be fine to leave it up. I love the design however I want to center my shelves on a wall and not have them attached to another perpendicular wall on the end like yours are.
You really made a good job Michael having shelves like this in our garage can make all stuff in one place, my dad tried the steel before but measuring the gap really took a long time. I had build a wall of shelves 8 years ago and have to disassemble them do to water leakage into my basement. I keep thinking about the square dimensions of the posts used in decking but believe I may be underestimating how strong wood can be. In your case I would probably add some vertical beams to your interior wall in addition to the ones on the outside of the shelves. As far as your concrete block wall is concerned, I would just use a concrete drill bit to pre-drill some holes and use concrete screws to attach the boards. Thanks for sharing your success story – I’m glad to hear it worked out for you!
While the garage is a great place for storage, it often becomes cluttered, making it hard to find what you need.
Turn scraps of leftover treated wood into pallets to keep items such as bags of fertilizer off the concrete floor. In garages without interior walls, notch the shelves around the studs so items don’t fall behind them. Screw the brackets to the side of the studs, making sure they are level, then slide the notched shelves on and attach them to the brackets. Coated hooks are the perfect solution for hanging everything from tools to extension cords on the wall.
The open space between studs is also a great place to put smaller shelves that can hold spray cans, boxes of nails, and even quarts of paint. You can follow comments to this article by subscribing to the RSS news feed with your favorite feed reader.
My customers would be surprised that I have shelves like you present in my older storage building, but long before we started Gorgeous Garage of East Texas, I was making my own shelves and making use of every inch of available space.
Sign up for Danny's Monthly Newsletter and stay up to date on tips and tricks for the home. I am looking to add some shelving (ceiling supported) around the perimeter back wall in my garage.
I have seen some complete this task with 2x4's through the ceiling, threaded rod, chains, etc. Drilled a hole through the front 2 bys to run the threaded rod through then a washer and nut.
You could probably skip that and just use 2by pieces to span 2 rafters if you're not putting heavy stuff up there.
Hi I went about 5-6 feet, not for any particular reason, just seemed like an ok distance for support and visually. So on a 16 foot run above the garage door there's 2 rods coming down 5 feet apart (2.5 feet from center of the door on each side).

On the ones coming down the length of the garage I came 6 feet out from the corner, put one , then another 6 feet on down from that.
I lag bolted to the top of the rafters on each end of the superstrut just so it wouldn't move, just a small one with washer on each end to keep it from shifting about.
Having it go through the front 2 bys you can kind of level everything out by tightening the bolt.
I have to use a ladder for everything up there, but i have trusses in the attic and it's a pain to get up there.
Now, where the shelving parallels the above framing member can get more difficult no matter what system you decide on.
I considered doing it with wood, but i needed the garage cleared quickly and this seemed like a quicker option to get it done that day for a few bucks more. Had the hurricane strap left over from the construction, but could easily use chain, cable, angle iron, etc.. I need another project like a hole in the head, but I've been contemplating something like this for some of my dead space above the garage door openers.
With garage shelves, in my opinion, they don’t need to look fancy, but they do need to be sturdy – I’ve seen far too many saggy garage shelves that look like they’re going to come tumbling down at any moment. Divide this distance by the height of the tallest item you will be keeping on your shelves. I made our bottom two shelves taller to hold the larger, heavier items (like food storage), and made the upper shelves a little bit shorter to hold the smaller, lighter items. If your bottom shelf will have a 21 inch space under it, measure up 24 ? inches and use your level to draw a horizontal line all the way across the wall.
I used a combination of 2x4s (for the vertical support posts), and 2x3s (for the main horizontal framework, including the boards tacked to the wall). For a 14 foot wall, I used 5 2×4 vertical posts, two on the end and three in the middle, each spaced about 3 ? feet apart. This is the fun part and if you’ve already measured and marked everything, the building portion should go fairly quickly (with this design).
Place them over the horizontal lines you drew and put a nail in at each vertical line (where the studs are).
Measure and cut these boards (and all the other vertical support 2x4s) to be ? inch taller than the highest board against the wall.
Start at the bottom and place something under one end, while you nail the other end to the perpendicular board that is against the wall.
After you have leveled the 2×4 and nailed it to the second row, the remaining rows will go quickly. They should fit right into your frame and once nailed down will offer additional strength coming out of the wall, as well as side to side. With the budget you have, you can actually do a lot of things with it but make sure to canvass for cheap but quality materials. My main goal was to build shelves that wouldn’t sag and would hold up well in the long run.
Is there any way you could make the shelves within your system adjustable to give you even better use of space ? I would think that you could use this same design, just duplicate the back and front sides with the vertical beams, and then make sure to include some kind of diagonal support beams that go from the top left to bottom right, and top right to bottom left corners to maintain the horizontal strength. These should work since you don’t need the vertical strength from the wall, just horizontal. It’s hard to resist a good opportunity to build something yourself and save some money! You will have to pre-drill the holes with a hammer drill and a concrete drill bit, but concrete screws should work, in my opinion. If you decided to use thinner plywood than I did then you might need to add in more support beams. Just be sure you are screwing and or nailing into a stud behind the wall and not just into the panelling. Since those were secured to each horizontal shelf they really don’t move down on the floor.
I just finished building these shelves in the center of a wall in my garage, there is no wall to attach to at either end.
For the spacing of the vertical beams, I would try not to go beyond 4ft, unless you plan on using thicker horizontal beams. You could then cut all of the horizontal beams, that are to attach to the interior wall, to fit in between the vertical beams.
For the width (or depth) of the shelves, I just measured the the widest item I knew I would be storing on the shelves and then made them an inch or two wider than that. Here are some easy projects to allow you to get even more storage space out of your garage while keeping it organized. These shelves are made from 16” wide composite material supported by the same triangular brackets that we used on our garage workbench. In addition to posting comments on articles and videos, you can also send your comments and questions to us on our contact page or at (800) 946-4420. You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features.
Your picture was the one I actually ran across during my search, just wansnt sure how you connected. If you attic is insulated you can find the rafters and bolt the unistrut perpendicular to the rafters then use the spring nuts to run threaded rod to support the front of your racks.
Say your shelves are 24" and the ceiling layout is 16" on center, your uprights fall in the middle somewhere.
I got 16' high ceilings and want to put a lot of storage about 6' tall and about 30 feet long, and 2 feet deep. By pulling at an angle to the top plate, pressure is applied to the 2x6 wall and not the ceiling trusses.

In fact, I’ve actually had a pet killed by some pre-built garage shelves that collapsed. I wanted to share my experience to give other DIY-ers an idea of a simple shelving design that is built to last.
I would also recommend storing all of your DIY chemicals like herbicides, pesticides, or cleaners on the top shelf, so your children cannot reach them (easily…).
Take your stud finder across the wall horizontally (twice), once up higher, and once down lower and mark each stud. The next horizontal line should be 24 ? inches above that line (assuming all of your shelves will be the same height). I also used ? inch thick plywood for the shelving surface, with the smoother side of the plywood facing up.
You can do whatever you want here, but make sure you don’t go too far between the posts so you have enough strength. This is so that when you lay the plywood down on the top shelf it will fit into the frame for additional support. Replace whatever you were using to support the other end with the first vertical support 2×4. I would still check each row with the level as some boards can be warped and will need to be bent into place. I guess I should have mentioned that $60 of that $200 was buying a new box of screws and a nails for my nail gun, which I obviously didn’t use all of them. I also wanted to use wood because it’s cheaper and I already had all the tools to do it easily.
Instead of buying a shelving system, I thought it might be more price-efficient to try and reuse the planks we have. You might want to go with an entirely new design for your situation, however, since this design gains most of its strength from being attached to the wall.
Some concrete screws come with a concrete drill bit that is the right diameter for the screws you are buying. As far as vertical strength is concerned, I personally think the 2x4s are good enough for your situation.
Do you think I should remove the paneling from the wall that I’m building shelves on? I will say that you should make sure they are all the way down on the floor before tacking them into place up above, to ensure that they are supporting the vertical weight of the shelf. At the same time, it might work just fine since each of the vertical beams would be attached to more than two horizontal shelves, hindering that side-to-side movement. Make a notched keeper from two pieces of 1”x2”, and attach it to the next stud to hold the 1”x4” in place.
A strip of lattice molding can be attached to the front to secure the cans, or left off to accommodate larger objects. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. You might find working with the steel components easier in this situation where you need to place a horizontal member above the proposed vertical attachment point. Instead of vertical supports going straight up to the trusses, I angled some hurricane strap from the front edge of the shelf to the top plate at 12 feet.
This would equal roughly 4.4, which means that you have enough room for 4 rows of shelving with 21 inches of usable height. Then take a 4 ft (or longer) level and trace a straight vertical line between the upper and lower marks.
Nail it into place with only one nail so you can still pivot the board side to side and level it.
I personally go for wood than any other material for shelves because 1) it is easy to work with 2) it is exudes a classic warm appeal. I wanted the spacing to be large enough so I could get large tubs in and out, but still have enough support.
Having it attached to the wall should also help to prevent it from collapsing to the side, but again, I’m really not sure. I do wish I had a few more inches when storing some of my larger coolers, but I am still able to get them in. Once I knew that depth I wanted, I pre-cut all my plywood to that width so those pieces would just lay right into the frame. Also, storage beds are the best way to store extra clothing, upholstery, excess luggage or any other stuff.
My shelves were about 21 inches deep so I was able to get two, 8 foot long pieces out of each sheet. If you plan on spacing your vertical beams at 4ft, or longer, I would at least upgrade your horizontal beams to 2x4s instead of 2x3s.
Get hold of some discarded logs and get on with your carpenter boots and an instruction guide which can be easily Goggled.
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This vertical line will be your guide to help you see where to screw the boards to the wall. I found this depth to be good for most tubs and other large items you would store, and plenty of room for storing several smaller items.
Make an interesting shelf  and hang it on your garage wall, just make sure it is sturdy enough.
Stick pegs in your rooms for hanging those scarves, use jam jars or any other jars for your accessories and decorate hangers and use them to stack your bangles.

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garage hanging shelving ideas

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