How to build a small solar panel at home,how to build a huge house in minecraft pe step by step,summer house stamford 01780 - Review

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Welcome, to enhance your experience we have divided our site into the following sectors. As solar output seems to be linked to surface exposed area, we think the voltage decrease is proportional to the area covered. It would only power a 1 volt motor, it is very unlikely that it will be suitable unless it is used as part of a charging system with a battery in the model car. Our aim for the camper van electrical system is to be able to do without electrical hookups indefinitely, and to be able to be away from any power source for a day or two without much sun and without having to run the engine. To achieve this we have tried to keep electrical loads down by choosing efficient gadgets, avoided some high power consumption electrical devices, included some extra battery capacity, and a large solar panel to charge the battery when sun is available. This section goes over the design of the electrical system for the camper conversion, the selection of components, and the installation.
The material on these pages describing our camper van conversion has been moved to our new new site dedicated to efficient RVs and camper vans.
The new site covers all the material here and adds a lot of new material on other camper van conversions, camper van design and build, resources for people converting vans, other efficient camping vehicles, new ideas in efficient RVs and camper van travel hints. I'm leaving these pages here as you may have bookmarked them and the Comments section has some good suggestions, but I suggest that you go to the new site -- I won't be updating this material anymore. Thanks to all the people who read these pages and especially to the people who left comments and suggestions! We do not want to be tied to electrical hookups at RV parks, so we incorporated a good sized house battery and tried to minimize our electrical loads.
The house battery can be charged from the van alternator, or from a large solar panel on the roof, or from shore power if available. Note that at this stage, most of the component installs and wiring have been completed and tested to some degree, but there are still a few things to do, and a road trip to see if it all works well together in actual use. The house battery powers all of the DC loads (like lights, fridge, furnace fan, water pump) via the DC distribution panel. We used two 200 amp-hr, 6 volt golf cart batteries from Costco connected in series for 12 volts. We thought about using an AGM battery, the advantages of the AGM battery is that it does not need water to be added (low maintenance), it vents less hydrogen during charging than a flooded battery, and no chance of spillage..
The conventional flooded lead-acid golf cart batteries we used are less expensive and very readily available, but will require checking the water levels from time to time, and the battery compartment will have to be vented to the outside to prevent hydrogen buildup. Just as an approximate comparison -- some data on two of Trojan Batteries offerings of flooded and AGM batteries.
Trojan recommends a charge rate of 10 to 13% of the 20 hr amp-hr rating, so about 22 to 30 amps for our golf cart batteries -- lower charge rates are OK, but higher charge rates will result in more gassing and shorter life. Both types will have a longer life if they are not discharged as deeply, but, it seems like for a camper van that might only be used 30(?) times a year that discharging to 80% should still give a very long battery life.
Another option that is just becoming practical is to use Lithium batteries (as used in electric cars).
After quite a bit of looking around, I found this nice and not very expensive distribution panel for RV's that handles both the AC and DC distribution in one fairly compact package. This gadget allows the van alternator to be used to charge the house battery, while preventing the van starting battery from being drained by powering loads in the RV.
This relay based unit appeals to me because: 1) it does not have the voltage drop that the diode based isolators do, 2) it does not get wired between the alternator and the starting battery as the diode ones do (so less interference with the van wiring), and 3) It is easy to hook up because it just needs a wire from the starting battery and an 12V source that goes on with the ignition switch. Not sure if I'm reading this right, but it seems like when you start the van that this unit puts the starter battery in parallel with the house battery. We selected the Tripp Lite APS1250, which provides 1250 watts of AC from the battery, and when in charger mode, provides up to 30 amps of battery charging using a 3 stage charger. Like most of these inverters, it draws some power from the battery whenever the inverter is turned on even if nothing is plugged into the inverter, but it can easily be turned off manually when no AC power is being used, so this is a nuisance, but not a serious one. The unit includes basic monitoring of the system, and they sell an add on unit for more extensive monitoring if desired.
Midnite Solar has a nice online tool that lets you see if the PV panel(s) you are planning to use are compatible with the KID.
I ordered the panel from the local Platt Electric -- their price was competitive and if you pick it up at Platt there is no shipping charge.
For the most part, I used this ampacity table to determine the maximum capacity of a given wire gage, and this voltage drop table (the 12 volt section) to determine the minimum wire gage for less than 2% voltage drop. While the overall wiring diagram gets a bit busy (and more than I am up to drawing), it really consists of a few simple functions that are largely independent of each other.
This is the electrical subsystem responsible for charging the house battery from the van alternator when the van is running. The battery isolator relay connects the van battery to the house battery only when the van ignition switch is on. The barratry isolator relay is turned on by connecting it to a 12 volt power source on the van that is only on when the ignition switch is on. The van alternator is the source of power for both charging the van battery and the house battery. The wires between the house and van battery are 8 gage -- this provides the 50 ampacity with less than 2% voltage drop for the about 10 ft run. The diagram above shows a breaker which protects the wiring between the two batteries from over current that originates from the House Battery, but the wiring between the two batteries is not protected from over current originating from the van battery. This is the part of the electrical system that charges the house battery using a roof mounted PV panel.
The charge controller is from Midnight Solar -- its is described under the Components section. The 30 amp DC breaker between the charge controller and the house battery is what Midnight Solar recommends as this is the maximum charge current that the charge controller can supply.
The wires connecting the charge controller and the house battery are #10, which has the required 30 amp ampacity. The DC distribution panel takes 12 volt power from the house battery and distributes it to the various 12 volt loads in the camper. The 60 amp breaker in the line from the house battery to the DC panel is somewhat more than I think our total DC usage will ever be, and is well within the 100 amp maximum rating of the DC panel. Note that for our system, the DC and AC distribution panels share the same housing, but are separated by an internal partition. This part of the electrical system is responsible for distributing power to the 120 VAC loads in the camper, and also manages whether the source of the AC power is shore power or the camper inverter.
The AC panel distributes power to the 120 volt AC loads in the camper in the same way as the DC panel (above) distributes power to the DC loads. Since our AC loads are low, the shore power receptacle is just a 20 amp regular 120VAC plug.
The batteries plus all the main components take up an about 2 by 2 ft space under the bed on the drivers side. The distribution panel on the right serves as both the DC and AC distribution panel -- AC on forward end and DC on aft end.
This pictures shows the AC and DC distribution panel (top) and the solar charge controller (below).
The DC panel provides for up to 12 DC branch circuits, of which I am using 11 (some of the fuses have not been installed yet). The switch panel mounts next to the fuse panel on the vertical face of the driver side bed platform. The two switches on the left are pump and furnace, and the remaining switches are spares for future use. The blocks of wood on the top and bottom are to keep things from hitting the switches and accidentally tripping them.
I have not updated the wiring diagram to show this panel, but the switches are in the plus lead between the fuse and the the furnace or pump, and the switches should be rated to at least the same current as the fuses. The charge controller goes between the PV panel and the house battery and regulates and optimizes the charging of the battery. The MidNite Solar KID charge controller is mounted in the bed enclosure just below the distribution panel. There are several status screens that display various info about the solar charging -- e.g. Left picture is the positive terminal connection, and right is the negative terminal connection. The picture shows how the through floor bolts are anchored under the floor -- the steel plate provides tear out resistance. I did a rough estimate of the power use while in camping mode, and estimated the battery size and PV panel size needed to support this load for a couple days.
The spreadsheet also includes a rough heat loss calculation to get the furnace size and the power drain for the furnace fan and electronics.
Otherwise, table below is copied out of the spreadsheet, but its hard to read because of the formatting. Based on the stuff below, you would want the solar panels to put in about 500 wh over the day. Dometic says 40 watts, but this would be 365 KWH per year, which seems high for a tiny RV fridge. Correction: The power drain for the 700 watt (nominal) microwave should be more like 1000 watts. This is with average weather for Billings -- you can, of course, have full overcast days with very little production. Our estimated use per day is about 400 watt-hrs, so for most of the year, on average, a 315 watt panel would easily meet our daily needs even with the horizontal tilt. Note that PVWatts has a bug that results in inaccurate output with arrays smaller than 1 KWH, so you have to put in a larger array, and then just scale the output numbers down.
I did not keep track of the time spent installing the electrical system as it was spread out over a month. I'd be happy to hear any ideas, suggestions, corrections, or questinons -- use the Comments link just above. This is the root page on my site for the PM conversion -- there is a subpage for each major part of the conversion-- see the Table of Contents at the top of the page. Getting close to finishing the wall and ceiling paneling -- down to doing the battens that cover the joints.
I can see that it lets air in below the trap, and that's good -- seems like on a normal house plumbing system that's all that would be needed. For the RV, the grey water tank is basically sealed (airtight), and when water drains from the sink down the drain pipe to the tank, air has to come up from the tank along the same pipe that the water is draining down to make room for the incoming water? Maybe I'm looking at this wrong -- would be happy to try the Studor as it would be a nice simple solution if it works?
Did the roof in 4 panels using the PM roof ribs to attach the forward and aft end of panels to. We will probably go to a fabric cover glued onto the ceiling panels -- still thinking about it.
The pictures are very helpful and will go a long way toward making it easier for others, self-included. My PM is dark grey and it is very dark inside, even with a window on the back doors, slider and opposite the slider.
If you are going to cook inside the van I would think twice about installing any kind of fabric that cannot be washed down.


We wipe our walls and ceilings with a cleaner every week, those confined cooking vessels take on quite a smell after a few weeks.. The picture above shows the close to finished wall and ceiling paneling for the camper van.
I've described what I did in quite a bit of detail below -- this is not to say that I think this is the ultimate way to go. We did think about wood paneling, but our last couple RV's have been wood paneled and we decided to try something different. The plus side of this is that you gain a bit over an inch of width and you retain easy access to the main frame cavity (where you will probably run a lot of wire. Picture showing cardboard template with the marks to indicate where the final cut should deviate from the template. For one of the other panels, I just took a lot of dimensions without the cardboard template, and that also worked pretty well -- aided by the relatively square shape of the PM cargo compartment. The scheme I worked out for the window cutouts was to measure from the edge of the template to where the window is, then cut an undersize rectangle in the cardboard template that is a half inch or so smaller than the final window cutout will be.
To get the final cutout opening in the template, 1) lay the template on the floor, 2) place the trim ring over it, 3) position the trim ring on the template using the measurements from the undersize rectangle in the cutout, and 4) once the trim ring is correctly placed, use the trim ring as a template to trace the final cutout location. Measuring from rectangle in template to actual window frame so that window trim ring can be precisely located on the template. The little piece of cardboard is used mark the distance from the template to the window frame, and then the distance is marked on the template. Using the markings on the template to precisely locating the window trim ring on the template.
No new insulation was added to the ceiling as the spray foam insulation was close to filling the cavity. Used Great Stuff polyurethane foam in can to fill in some of the thin areas near the window where it was not sprayed much. Using some rigid polyurethane foam board in the lower part of the wall -- it is glued to the wall using Great Stuff foam. In some places, the wall paneling can be screwed directly to the ProMaster ribs or frames (be careful not to poke a screw through the van skin). The strips shown above are screwed to the PM frames, and the wall paneling upper edge is in turn screwed to the wood strip. The windows already had wood frames around them that the wall panels could be forced against by the window trim ring. The wall panels were installed with self tapping screws along all the edges where the ProMaster provided a metal surface to screw to. If you do a good job of cutting out the panels, they go up quickly -- most of the work is in marking and cutting out the panels and installing the attach strips. First wall panel in place but not screwed down yet -- a 2nd panel will go below this one to finish this segment of the wall.
In the above picture, most of the screws are not in yet, but the arrows show where each type goes. The forward and aft edges of these ceiling panels could be screwed right to the ceiling metal ribs with SHOIRT self-tapping screws, but the left and right sides needed some form of backing board to screw into as did the aft end of the aft most panel and the forward end of the forward most panel.
I did not want to have to contend with screw heads in these panels, so they were screwed to the van metal (unconventionally) with flat head drywall screws counter sunk in the wood strips -- they hold surprisingly well. Note that the curvature of the van roof becomes quite tight at the edges of the roof, and the hardboard ceiling panels cannot be bent sharply enough to make this curvature.
The 2nd nailing strip runs full length of the ceiling along each side above the first nailing strip. I call all of these nailing strips for lack of a better name -- only screws (no nails) are actually used -- none were harmed. The aft end of the aft ceiling panel has to be supported by a nailing strip as there is no PM rib to attach it to. The forward end of the forward ceiling panel also has to be supported by a nailing strip as there is no PM rib at that location. The ceiling panel would cover the PM regular ceiling light, so I cut a hole to fit the existing ceiling light in the new ceiling panel, and reinstalled the old PM ceiling light in the new ceiling panel. The wall and ceiling panels can be cut quite accurately with a Skil Saw and a straight edge to guide -- with a plywood blade, cuts are quite smooth. Trimming off the corners and rib notches is easily done with a sabre saw with a fine tooth blade. Its easier to get the ceiling panels lined up and to get the first couple screws in if you use a couple props to support the panel in place while you fuss with the alignment. The screws holding the ceiling panel to the wood frame around the Maxx Fan have not been placed yet. The wood is pressed against the fan mount screws to mark the screw positions, then oversize holes are drilled in the wood to allow the wood to slip over the screws and contact the van ceiling. Once the glue is set, the wood strips provide a place to screw the ceiling panels in, and then the decorative plastic fan fairing for the inside is trimmed to length and screwed to the wood frame. For aesthetic reasons only, most of the exposed screw heads for the screws holding the wall panels in place and the gaps where panels meet were covered with wood trim strips.
The first pictures shows the trim pieces used between the upper and lower panels to cover the edges and screw heads. The trim piece that runs along the top of the wall panels over the length of the van hides a bunch of screw heads, gaps, and also provides a place to install down pointing LED strip lights.
The sidewall to ceiling trim pieces had to have notches taken out to fit the ribs and main frame. The wood trim strips that go along the top of the wall panels have a dadoed groove to hold LED strip lights. The left one is a pretty slick fastener head cover, the one in the middle is a #12 brass flat head wood screw in a countersunk hole, and the one on the right is a fastener of any kind with the hole bored down about a quarter inch, and then it has a wood plug pushed into the hole and than sawed of flush. I think they all look nice, but I liked the brass the best -- maybe I always wanted a boat?
I'm not sure about the labor as it was spread out over some no activity on the van periods -- I think it was about the equivalent of six or seven 6 hour days. I did not take any cost credit for all the scrap paneling I'm left -- probably a lifetime supply.
A chemical equation is the chemical formula that provides the information of the elements and molecules that are reacting as well as the molecules that are being produced from that reaction. My son's 40th birthday soon,he is a landscape gardener,and so wanted to make him a present that he wouldn't have to dig,water, or weed,therefor made him this steampunk terrarium.I'm sure he will like it.
The Green House project was a plan that my wife and I came up last year because of the frost we had February 2015 that killed some of our palm trees and plants.
An old solar powered street number sign was in front of our house when we moved in ten years ago. This solar oven is made out of materials that are very easily available and not very expensive either. If you are looking for a simple, inexpensive but durable solar lighting setup for your shed or outbuilding then this tutorial is perfect for you.
Disclaimer: Do this in your own responsibility, the panel warranty will void also the delivered power may go below a certain voltages which can cause a severe damage to your electronics. Scope of Project.The objective of this project is to assemble and install a stand alone solar power system (Photo Voltaic or PV) .
I decided to make a solar hot water heater, but I also wanted it capable of ethanol distillation.
My home has been solar powered since June 2013 and the power system has proven its reliability.
Using the Brown Dog Gadget 5W solar panels, we were able to turn battery-powered fans into solar powered fans! We held our Brown Dog Gadgets Solar Charger Instructables Build Night during the Land O'Lakes Library Makerspace Open House, and invited people to play with the solar chargers and brainstorm ideas. This week we are building SlimPanel, an intelligent all-in-one solution for portable solar energy production. Para limpiar el agua podemos usar filtros, para este proyecto decidimos usar la energía solar para limpiar el agua.
In India, one of world’s largest, most populated countries, over 74 million rural households live without power.
I've been charging 18650 rechargeable batteries from a small 12v battery solar charger for a few months now. Hello, and thanks for reading my 'How to Make a Solar Powered Lawn Mower.' I didn't take any pictures of it when I was building it, as I was to busy building it.
This project will help you to transform Solar Garden Light to amazing Desk Lamp :) which you will never need to charge. Earlier this year we bought a 10' X 20" storage building and had it delivered to the backyard.
If you continue without changing your settings, we'll assume that you are happy to receive all cookies on the Rapid website. These panels output 1V and 150mA in absolute sun maximum so you would need multiple panels in series and parallel to achieve the necessary voltage and current your windmill requires, these are generally for proof of principle experiments for education. Most of our loads are DC and run directly off the house battery with only a couple of modest AC loads that can be powered either by our onboard inverter or shore power. The battery can supply a couple of days (or more) with typical loads, and on a sunny day, the solar panel can recharge the battery fully. It also powers an inverter to provide 120 Volt AC house power to our small number of AC loads.
On the down side, they are quite a bit more expensive for the same capacity, and appear (from the Trojan Battery data below) to have a shorter life. Designing for 80% discharge allows the use of a smaller, lighter, more compact, and cheaper battery compared to (say) designing to 50% discharge. They would reduce weight and size by quite a bit over the lead acid batteries, but are still expensive, and would likely take some careful homework to get right. It isolates the van starting battery from the house battery when the ignition switch is off so that RV loads only discharge the house battery. I guess this could be good if your starting battery is low, but maybe not so good if your house battery is low? The unit is inline with a 50 amp circuit breaker, so anything over 50 amps would probably be fine. This is a relay similar to the one above, but the relay is activated just monitoring the van battery voltage to determine if the engine is running or not. When you are not hooked up to shore power and are being powered by the house battery, it provides limited 120 volt AC power for the van from the house battery. I chose the Tripp Lite mostly because I have a larger one I bought several years ago and it has held up well. It transforms the PV panel output voltage down to a voltage that is suitable for charging the battery, and it prevents the solar panel from overcharging and damaging the battery. This is a relatively new design that has quite a bit of flexibility for small solar systems. The manual is written in an informative and down to earth style that is refreshing compared to the awful manuals that come with so many products. Thinking about mounting it as low as possible and aft of the Maxx Fan on the centerline of the roof. This prevents house loads from discharging the the van battery and resulting in a vehicle that has a flat battery in the morning and won't start.


I used power from the 12VDC outlet near the driver side back door as it is only powered when the ignition is on. The circuit breaker can also be manually switched off, so it acts as a disconnect when you want to be sure there is no connection between the van and house batteries. I do not know what the charging current will turn out to be for the ProMaster, but I plan to measure it, and if more than 30 amps, take steps to reduce it.
For example, if the wire connecting the van and house batteries were to develop a short to ground, the circuit breaker near the house battery would break, but there is no fuse or breaker in the wire from the van battery. It is a 72 cell PV panel so, it has a higher output voltage (36 volts) that is compatible with the input voltage range of the Midnight Solar charge controller with only the one panel hooked up. Basically, it transforms the DC voltage put out by the solar panel to the voltage needed to charge the house battery (so the PV panel might be putting out 36 volts and the charge controller transforms this to 13 to 14ish volts needed to charge the battery. To connect this to the charge controller, I bought a 50 ft long MC4 extension cable and cut it in half.
We have planned the camper to minimize AC loads and only have a couple of AC outlets and a circuit to power a small microwave. It says to use a fuse in this line that is located close to the battery and rated at least to the maximum amperage listed on the inverter, which is 127 amps. I think this will be fine and it allows us to just use a regular 12 gage extension cord to hook up to the shore power tower. The DC distribution panel is to the right (with the car type DC fuses), and the AC distribution panel to the left with the AC circuit breakers. Up to 4 branch circuit breakers can be installed below the main breaker (I'm only using 2).
It also provides 12 volt DC and USB charging outlets as well as a small volt meter to provide for easily monitoring the house battery voltage. We have always found it to be a good idea to turn the pump off when not in the RV, as any kind of leak or faucet left on will cause the pump to run and drain the tank and them damage the pump.
This means you have to get down on hands and knees to read the status, but it does keep the wire runs short and the electrical bay compact. Most RV's now use 30 amp or 50 amp shore power connections, but with our small AC loads we just don't need that. I was concerned about these breaking away in a crash and coming forward to injure passenger or driver.
For the deep winter, the panel only meets about 75% of our daily usage, but if it could be tilted, it would meet our daily needs with a bit of margin. It was, in fact, a bit frustrating at times to not be able to quite get where I wanted to, or to be taking a long time to get certain parts done. We decided to go with something that was pretty light and that had some pattern for the walls. I think that plywood paneling is a little more forgiving to work with than this hardboard paneling with a vinyl skin that we used. I'm inclined to say that putting up a serviceable set of paneling that does the job well, but does not worry a lot about aesthetics is about a 1 weekend job, but putting up a set of paneling that looks flawless with every do dad finished is a more like a one month job.
Like most conversions I've looked at so far, I decided to keep the paneling below the level of the main frame and to have one set of paneling forward of the main frame and one set aft. It probably also makes the surface of the paneling more uniform without a sort of gradual bulge for the main frame. The ProMaster contours are generally pretty rectangular and not to difficult to get right -- mostly its just trimming the corners to a rounded shape and working out how to handle the window openings.
I would hold the cardboard up in position below the curve around the top, and then trace a pencil line on the cardboard eyeballing where it was to go along with measurements at a few points. Our windows have an internal trim ring that comes off, and the wall paneling goes under the trim ring, and then the trim ring goes back on. I then placed the template in its final position in the van, and measured from the edge of the template cutout to the corresponding edge of the actual window frame -- this marks the exact edge of the window frame on the cardboard template in several places. You may have to adjust the line in our out the thickness of the trim ring material depending on how your trim ring is made. Earlier, the whole back of the van was spray foamed with polyurethane spray insulation, but this still left room for more thickness of insulation in the side walls. One could fur down from the ceiling ribs to make more room for insulation if desired -- this would also provide a nice set of wood members to screw the ceiling paneling to. For the window, the window trim ring (or clamp ring) placed over the paneling and pulled into the window frame with screws holds the paneling in place around the window frames.
I even considered making up one big panel in the shop and installing the whole thing as one unit. This means leaving them without support in the span near the edges, or adding a 2nd thicker nailing strip to above the first one to come down and support the ceiling panel in the high curvature section.
When I go to Home Depot, I check the 2 by 4 pile and sometimes (at least in our location) you can find some very nice, near clear, and near vertical grain 2 by 4's -- I just pick them up when I see them. The two dado grooves are to accommodate the heads of the self-tapping screws used fasten the panels to the PM.
While it does not look like it, the right face in the picture above is ripped at an about 10 deg angle to match the side wall angle.
The Law of Conservation of Mass states that the mass of the reactants must balance the mass of the products. We decided to purchase the Palram Model # 702422 Internet # 204471274 Victory Orangery 10 ft.
There are a lot of ways to do this easily if you have access to a laser cutter or cnc router.
The Solar Water Pump System can be used for residential water requirements and also for commercial uses. If you’re not convinced, look at the power usage of electric appliances like microwaves, space heaters, water heaters, ovens, or coffee pots. Not impressed with the charge rate, spending an entire sunny day only to maybe have a single 18650 battery charged. Does the voltage decrease uniformly or does it drop suddenly when the panel is completely covered?AHi Trevor, thanks for your question. Charging voltages for flooded and AGM batteries are different, so the charger should be settable to the type of battery you have. The idea is that even if you discharge the house battery overnight, the van starting battery will still be fully charged. When you are hooked up to shore power, it turns off the inverter function and passes the shore power through to the AC loads that are connected to the inverter, AND it charges the house battery using a full 3 stage charger. It includes MPPT (Maximum Power Point Tracking) which is more efficient than the PWM models. The 72 cell design provides enough voltage (36 volts) to work with the KID charge controller as a single panel.
So, a fuse should be added near the van battery in the wire that connects the two batteries.
Right now this breaker is a model that does not have a manual shut off switch built into it, and I plan to replace it with one that does when I find one. I used one half of it to connect to the plus MC4 terminal on the PV panel and the other half to connect to the negative.
I am using a 150 amp breaker, which seems high for #2 wire which has an ampacity of 115 amps -- will check further into this. The switch on the furnace allows you to completely turn the furnace off and still have other DC gadgets powered up.
If we decide to do upper cabinets (above the windows) in the van, I may move the charge controller to one of the upper cabinets for easier reading -- I'd convert the hole for the current position into an air vent to ventilate the electronics area.
For an RV that only gets used maybe 30 days a year, 750 cycles is about 25 years, and I'm sure the battery will die of something else before 25 years.
For the ceiling we used white, but that may change to a light colored (and light weight) fabric later. The bright white ceiling paneling is particularly at good showcasing small flaws or changes in slope. I think that quarter inch plywood paneling over the same area would be less -- perhaps 30 lbs less? So, the trim ring not only holds the window frame in place, but also captures the inside wall paneling. For the areas where wood nailing strips were added (see above), the wood paneling was secured by wood drywall screws.
I used parts from this sign to create a new one that could function in the cloudy, wet, short winter days of the Pacific Northwest. I decided to publish this instructable to let fellow DIYers know the basics to design and install a system such as mine.
Yes, the power output will decrease if the panel is obscured – the same effect as a cloudy day. I'm aware that some sources recommend using stranded wire for greater vibration resistance, but the Romex is widely used in RV's and does not appear to cause an problems. The other end of this bed houses the propane bottle and is bolted through the floor with several more bolts. Then, holding the cardboard up to where it is actually to go, I trimmed back any places that went too far, and marked the places on the template where it fell a little short of where it was supposed to be -- usually these were just an eighth of an inch or so. You use 4 separate ceiling panels with each panel spanning a pair of the ProMaster metal ceiling ribs. Had I thought of this earlier, I would have used the same screws that hold the fan to the van roof to hold the wood frame, but these screws were already installed and carefully sealed, and I did not want to distribute them. The isolator I used is a PAC-200 (see above) -- the 200 amp rating is quite a bit more than is required. The charge controller also prevents the PV panel from overcharging the house battery, which would damage it. It also starts up its battery charger and if the house battery needs charging, it charges it from the shore power -- it supplies up to 30 amps of charge current.
The bed boxes are made out of a premium quality MDO plywood with all joints glued and screwed.
This results in four ceiling panels that each measure about 62 inches side to side, and 27 to 30 inches forward and aft -- pretty easy to handle. The voltage drop for 15 ft of #10 wire at 8 amps is about 2%, or about 0.7 volts under full sun conditions -- this seems OK to me. This seemed like the most straight forward way to do it and looked like it would make the panels easier to cut and fit, and also easier to take out if access is needed to part of the ceiling.
One downside is that this method is very wasteful of material if you are using 4 by 8 ft sheets -- It takes one full sheet for each of the 4 panels, with only about 12 sqft of the 32 sqft panel being used -- lots of scrap for future projects. Question by Robert gornall26 June 2013Qwill you be able to use a torch as the light sourceAHi Robert. Although using a torch is not ideal it will work to a degree, as to how effective it will be depends on how much light the panel received from the torch.




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Comments to «How to build a small solar panel at home»

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