How to build a solar panel charger walmart,12x16 barn shed plans 02,shed floor is wet - Videos Download

With endless summer days still aplenty, there’s no better time to invest in a solar charger for all your gadgets. In order to construct your own solar-powered USB charger, you will need thin-film solar panels, 2 NiMH AA batteries, pre-assembled USB charging circuit board, a diode, battery holder, wire and, of course, the Altoids tin. In addition to providing a step-by-step guide, Joshua Zimmerman has also put up a link to the kit he made with all the necessary parts.
Note: It is estimated that if you have none of the parts, then all together it will cost less than $30, which I think you’ll agree is much cheaper than the $140 factory-purchased model!
Please note that gratuitous links to your site are viewed as spam and may result in removed comments. The sun produces an enormous amount of energy and it will keep on doing so for the next 5 billion years. Working with solar energy can be safe, as long as the voltages and currents you are working with are well below 50 volts and 1 ma. The first connections that are made in an off grid energy system, is the solar charger and batteries.
With this basic energy system, you can operate TVs, small fridges, computer and a whole range of other appliances.
Where to buy: Solar chargers, inverters and solar panels can be bought from either eBay or Alibaba for really cheap - we found these to be the best places on finding great deals.
Using regulated charger output to control a relay, so that higher currents can be used to power devices directly off, of the battery.
A chemical equation is the chemical formula that provides the information of the elements and molecules that are reacting as well as the molecules that are being produced from that reaction. My son's 40th birthday soon,he is a landscape gardener,and so wanted to make him a present that he wouldn't have to dig,water, or weed,therefor made him this steampunk terrarium.I'm sure he will like it. The Green House project was a plan that my wife and I came up last year because of the frost we had February 2015 that killed some of our palm trees and plants. An old solar powered street number sign was in front of our house when we moved in ten years ago. This solar oven is made out of materials that are very easily available and not very expensive either. If you are looking for a simple, inexpensive but durable solar lighting setup for your shed or outbuilding then this tutorial is perfect for you.
Disclaimer: Do this in your own responsibility, the panel warranty will void also the delivered power may go below a certain voltages which can cause a severe damage to your electronics. Scope of Project.The objective of this project is to assemble and install a stand alone solar power system (Photo Voltaic or PV) . I decided to make a solar hot water heater, but I also wanted it capable of ethanol distillation. My home has been solar powered since June 2013 and the power system has proven its reliability. Using the Brown Dog Gadget 5W solar panels, we were able to turn battery-powered fans into solar powered fans! We held our Brown Dog Gadgets Solar Charger Instructables Build Night during the Land O'Lakes Library Makerspace Open House, and invited people to play with the solar chargers and brainstorm ideas. This week we are building SlimPanel, an intelligent all-in-one solution for portable solar energy production. Para limpiar el agua podemos usar filtros, para este proyecto decidimos usar la energía solar para limpiar el agua. In India, one of world’s largest, most populated countries, over 74 million rural households live without power.
I've been charging 18650 rechargeable batteries from a small 12v battery solar charger for a few months now.
Hello, and thanks for reading my 'How to Make a Solar Powered Lawn Mower.' I didn't take any pictures of it when I was building it, as I was to busy building it.
This project will help you to transform Solar Garden Light to amazing Desk Lamp :) which you will never need to charge.
Earlier this year we bought a 10' X 20" storage building and had it delivered to the backyard. This is our 3rd RV, and one thing we learned from the others is that keeping it simple and open rather than trying to cram too much into too small a space is what works for us.
On the 20 mpg objective, we started with a relatively short and lightweight version of the PM and plan to keep the conversion weight down and not add a lot of draggy things on the outside. We looked at what seems like a thousand inside layouts -- mostly European for similar size RV's, and came down to two finalists. We did a crude mockup of this one inside the PM -- hard to take pictures of, but looks like this.
The vertical plywood aft of the bed is where porta pot goes, and then floor to ceiling stowage cabinet would be behind that. We like the nice open feel this one has and it seems to get the job done and has a comfortable bed. Don't like so much that you have to do a bit of a conversion of seat to bed and bed to seat a couple times a day. On both setups there would be some cabinets above the windows in the corner where wall meets roof.
There would be windows in the sidewall and sliding door for both layouts -- the aft bed layout might allow aft windows on both side. The adults would sleep perpendicular to the direction of motion and the center square seat in the rear would move forward to form a third bed out of the passenger seats. The swivel seats allow you to leave the rear bed setup and eat dinner if you just have 2 adults traveling.
You can build a bare bones camper for your family that you won't out grow in a few years but I think you need to do a lot more research first or you will be wasting a lot of your hard earned money. I haven't even addressed the seating problems you will encounter for the kids as that is a whole different can of worms that will affect your conversion in a very substantial way.
We had some great times when the kids were small with the RV -- I think you will really enjoy it.
We did the small child sleeping across the seats with a piece of plywood and matteress to make it more like a bed -- she thought it was great, but I suppose it would get to be an issue eventually. I do think that the 159WB might work out better for four, but its all a bit of a matter of how much you want to squeeze.

I do really like doing the actual mockup --even if its crude it seems like you always learn a lot.
In our last RV we used one of the Danfoss fridges and it was fine with a single not to large deepcycle battery overnight.
The things that appealed to me about the spray foam is that it has very good R value per inch, and its impervious to water vapor, so moist air from the van cannot get to the cold metal skin of the van and condense. I've never used one of the 2 component spray kits before, so was very careful to find out all I could about them before tackling the spraying -- there are some pretty good youtube videos on spraying. Sent a lot of time masking all the areas I did not want to spray, which was a good thing as the spray gets all over everything. One thing that everyone emphasizes is the the kit bottles, the van, and the air all have to be in the right temperature range in order to get good expansion.
One thing that can happen with the spray foam is that if you spray too thick a layer on sheet metal van panels, it can permanently distort the panels. The foam appears to be very well adhered to the metal and looks like good polyurethane foam to me. I've started to document this whole project on my website and included some additional pictures and text there, but will keep up the progress here if there is interest.
I've been spending some time trying to work out the electrical for the conversion and will put up something on that shortly.
This is a tentative diagram for the system, and the list of main components I'm leaning toward. Would value any thoughts or comments on any problems you see or ideas for better components or design. We want to be able to camp independent of hookups and would like to be able to last a couple days without having to run the van engine to charge the house batteries.
It appears to me that this setup will keep us going for all but the dead of winter where the horizontal PV panel does not generate enough power to handle the daily drain -- it would be OK if it could be tilted. I am liking the Blue Sky charge controller in that it will not only take 12 volt PV panels, but will also take a single larger 30 volt (60 cell) pv panel, and this lets us get 250 watts all in one panel, which simplifies wiring and roof mods and (maybe) reduces drag a bit. I'm really in doubt about the battery isolater as there are so many choices over such a wide range of prices. I've written up how I went through adding up the electrical loads while camping, and how the batteries, pv panel, inverter, sizes were picked to meet these loads.
If you have the time, I'd appreciate any thoughts on the system and any suggestions for improvements. One thing I kind of wonder about is that we set out to make this a "simple" van conversion and the electrical system looks a long ways from simple to me -- maybe there is a way to do this more simply? We like projects like this, as they are simple enough to teach beginners the basic of electronics, but complex enough that you have a useable product at the end of your efforts.
Tool list :  Solder, soldering iron, glue gun, glue stick, diagonal cutters, volt meter (optional).
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So this page is a chronicle of my experience, and a DIY tutorial about building such contraption with the smallest expense possible. Here I added another diode thinking it was necessary for the back flow protection to the backup battery charging circuit (which happens if the battery poles go back into the power input of the charging circuit, in a failing attempt of the battery to charge itself); anyway, the first diode is enough to prevent it. On a side note, as other pointed out in the comments, instead of digging for a recharging protection, you may just buy a protected 18650, that is a battery that has its own integrated protection circuit. With this setup you can charge anything which has a USB charging cable, be it iphone, ipod, ipad, mp3 player, every htc phone… you can even attach a USB hub to it if the panel is powerful enough, and charge more than one device at the same time! Since the desktop charger had its own charging plug, I can use a standard Nokia charger to charge the backup battery. This entry was posted on 10 October, 2010, 4:38 pm and is filed under howto's, mobile phones.
The panel I used is quite efficient in itself, and the more power you need, the larger the panel you gotta get, noway to make it smaller without losing on energy. I payed about 17EUR for the panel alone, but the prices rapidly went higher after I bought it.
Salve, prima di tutto volevo farle i complimenti per il progetto, poi volevo chiederle una domanda. Onestamente non credo che il circuito presente nei normali caricabatterie sia protetto… anche perche il caricabatterie da tavolo che ho usato doveva appunto essere collegato ad un normale trasformatore al posto del cellulare. I caricabatterie con lo spinotto sono dei semplici trasformatori, il circuito di protezione di carica e presente direttamente nel cellulare.
Se la batteria ha il suo circuito di protezione, caricarla a 6V non dovrebbe essere un grosso handicap; uno qualunque dei diodi dovrebbe andar bene, devono comunque sostenere correnti e tensioni limitate. Come avrai visto, la costruzione e relativamente banale; io grazie a questo lavoretto ho imparato a fare le saldature, prima di allora ero letteralmente impedito. Per gli MP3 e possibile che tu non abbia cortocircuitato i contatti centrali della porta USB del pannello, operazione necessaria per far identificare il pannello come \caricatore\ da alcuni dispositivi. Per quello ti rimando ai tutorial di saldature presenti su youtube, che sono la miglior cosa; io ho stagnato i due capim e poi li ho fusi assieme, ma in generale devi assicurarti che la punta del saldatore sia sempre pulita, con una punta sporca potresti aspettare anche 10 secondi senza che lo stagno fonda.
Quando ho creato questo capolavoro ancora non avevo imparato l’utilita di avere la punta del saldatore pulita (e pulirla costantemente su una spugnetta dopo ogni stagnatura), quindi siccome ci volevano minuti prima che lo stagno fondesse, mi accontentavo che i componenti si attaccassero il minimo indispensabile per star fermi, dopodiche li bloccavo con colla a caldo. A pensarci, avevo anche il micromotore con le pietre per irruvidire i poli della batteria, ma non mi e venuto in mente. Io ho fatto un carica cellulare USB con un pannello fotovoltaico da 5 W esattamente come la potenza del normale alimentatore. Non ho capito comunque una cos’e che non funziona, sembra che se fai passare i 12V attraverso il riduttore tutto vada bene, mentre se ci colleghi il pannello solare non carica il cellulare, giusto? Avere sottomano un tester e sempre utile, controlla sotto la luce del sole se il pannello fornisce effettivamente i 12V, e controlla anche se a valle del riduttore di tensione ci sono 5V stabili.
In caso contrario, o il pannello e defunto e non fornisce in uscita la tensione che ti aspetti, oppure arriva al cellulare per qualunque motivo una tensione eccessiva, e i circuiti di protezione impediscono la carica. In pratica il tuo funziona perche hai un pannello che oltre al fatto di darti subito 5 Volt, ti da una corrente elevata di 0,7 A che permette la carica.

You’ve probably seen at least one of these solar products recommended by DIY enthusiasts pretty much everywhere. Nature-junkie, rockhound, archeology enthusiast, and off-the-grid experimenter living "the simple life". This site is a collection of cool stuff I found while prepping for life on the road (and "off the road") in my full-time tiny-house on wheels -- my simple home-built truck bed camper. Only other stuff that will need power would be the vent fan, projector, jacks, water pump, and led lights. However, Joshua Zimmerman of the DIY site Instructables doesn’t think you need to spend any money in order to get your hands on one. The best and most reliable way to harness this source of renewable energy is with a solar power system. But solar energy systems can contain high DC voltages within the networked solar panels and high AC voltages within the inverter - there is simply no room for mistakes when working with high voltages, especially where high currents are present. Solar chargers can usually accept a multiple range of voltage inputs, the basic being 12-24 volt chargers. Once the battery(s) has been connected and the charger display (or status lights) turn on, you are ready to connect the solar panels. Once your system is assembled, i.e, solar panels, solar charger, battery and (Optionally) the inverter , you can either use the power output from the charger (Globe Symbol) to power small devices, or you can simply connect an inverter directly to the battery(s) so that you can power household appliances. So if battery voltage falls too low, the relay switches off, in turn switching off the devices connected directly to the battery! The Law of Conservation of Mass states that the mass of the reactants must balance the mass of the products. We decided to purchase the Palram Model # 702422 Internet # 204471274 Victory Orangery 10 ft. There are a lot of ways to do this easily if you have access to a laser cutter or cnc router.
The Solar Water Pump System can be used for residential water requirements and also for commercial uses.
If you’re not convinced, look at the power usage of electric appliances like microwaves, space heaters, water heaters, ovens, or coffee pots. Not impressed with the charge rate, spending an entire sunny day only to maybe have a single 18650 battery charged. You need a 5V model (higher voltage models are fine only if you add a voltage regulation circuit which I am not going to cover in here), and buy the one with the biggest current rating available, my 700mA one is pretty impressive in itself but you may be able to find better.
If you use instead a protected UltraFire, the battery will be directly in parallel to the panel, so you won't need any additional diode. Intanto provo a fare il pannello senza la batteria,poi se vedo che funziona l’aggiungo. Un lettore MP3, non vedendo i canali dati cortocircuitati, potrebbe pensare di essere connesso ad un PC, e quindi abilitare la modalita di trasferimento dati anziche quella di ricarica; questo e quello che succede con un mio cellulare motorola, che si ricarica solo quando i poli centrali della porta USB sono in corto.
In tal caso la scaldi per 1 secondo e si stagna, non danneggi niente, la batteria non diventa neanche tiepida. Siccome il pannello da 12 V ho dovuto costruire un regolatore di tensione con LM7805 che mi da in uscita 5 V fissi con corrente fino a 1 A.
Il mio pannello invece e si di potenza maggiore (5 watt pagato compresa spedizione 24 euro) ma mi da in uscita misurati a vuoto con tester 0,24 A e 20,7 volt =>4,96.
Not because it was necessarily low quality, but because in terms of minimizing space and dollar per watt, you can easily do much better by shopping around. Instead, Zimmerman has designed a simple do-it-yourself solar USB charger that fits cozily in an Altoid tin! Solar energy systems can be either grid (Grid Tied) connected or work completely independant of the grid (off grid), grid tied systems are the most common with consumers. Then simply push your stripped battery connector in place and then tighten the clamp with your screwdriver. For the HUGE benefit of not requiring fuel, the biggest con I guess, is probably finding the space to mount your solar panel(s) - Our system simply has the panels resting against the garage wall! Higher voltages flow more efficiently and with lower losses through extended cables with minimal diameters, than lower voltages, given the same parameters. I used parts from this sign to create a new one that could function in the cloudy, wet, short winter days of the Pacific Northwest. I decided to publish this instructable to let fellow DIYers know the basics to design and install a system such as mine. Il problema si presenza nella trasforamzione a 5 volt che avviene perfettamente ma la corrente rimane 0,24 A e quindi perdo un sacco di potenza..perche e un regolatore non un trasformatore!
I recently bought a 1500 watt inverter and plan on using that instead of a generator when I can. The DIY project will charge most mobile devices via USB using 2 rechargeable AA batteries and flexible thin-film solar panels. Grid tied energy systems work together with the power that's supplied to your home from the power lines and hence, would often require the services of a professional (government accredited) contractor to install the whole sytem. So if the solar panel array was going to be a great distance from the energy system and long cables were used, then the best results for energy production would be achieved with higher voltages - Shorter distances don't care much for losses. This component should be safe to be the last and only one connected to the USB port, so that both solar panel and backup battery converge into it, and only a regulated, constant 5V output is given from the port.
I’ve just uploaded a few videos from my own first DIY Solar Panel build onto my new YouTube channel. Off grid energy systems are different in the way it does not need to be connected to the grid. 12 or 24 volts, the charger automatically adjust to the specifications of the batteries that are connected - A totally flat battery will not charge properly in this case!
So in this case, you DEFINATELY do not want to hard wire a solar panel directly to a battery!
Do the same for the other connector, so that both the Negative and Positive connections are complete. A small ceramic heater will also run a long time off the inverter and be very efficient if you insulate your van properly.

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