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Approved Document Part A of the Building Regulations or ask your Building Control Surveyor for advice. In the end, most of the front view of the roof had rotted away which resembled the bottom of a rabbit’s cage!Rainwater was ultimately seeping into the living space below.This is the intended design with measurements and materials used-The First task was to remove the existing guttering and fascia boards with a wrecking bar. Also allowing for cutting in the lead flashing at one brick below the window sill.A half brick on the side wall was knocked out (red arrow) to allow the wall plate to be pushed through giving it extra support.
Marks were chalked on the wall for the spacing for bolts, making sure the holes in the brick would be in the centre of the brick.These marks were transferred to the wall plate. Placed bolt into holes and positioned the wall plate into knocked out hole on the side wall and manoeuvred the wall plate against the wall so that the shaft of the bolts that are in the wall went through the holes in the wall plate.
Cut back the joist to allow fixing of front wall plate so that the front wall plate fits flush with the external front wall. Line up wall plate against existing joists and make a mark on the wall plate in line with the centre of the joists.
Drill holes at these marks to allow a 6” nail to be driven through the wall plate into the joists.Lay a thick layer of cement on existing brick work then place the wall plate on this and get a good level. This was also secured with ‘L’ brackets on each rafter.RaftersOnce the two wall plates are in place work can begin on installing the rafters. Firstly, each rafter should be placed on the front and rear wall plates making sure it is pushed up tight against the rear wall. Mark a vertical line, parallel with the wall (in blue) on the rafter and then cut along this line. This will then allow the rafter to sit flush against the rear wall.Once the rafter end is cut then birdsmouths can be cut into the rafter to allow it to sit securely onto the wall plates. To do this put the rafter back onto the front and rear wall plates and flush up to the rear wall.
For the birdsmouth on the rear wall draw a vertical line (in Red) on the rafter using the front of the wall plate as a guide.Then draw a horizontal line 90° to the vertical line from the vertical line to the wall. The height of this line must not be too high up as to weaken the point where the rafter sits on the wall plate and must be the same on both cuts on the rafter.

Also sidespike 4” ovals into either side of the rafter, again into the top of the wall plate (blue arrow above). This process needs repeating at both ends of the rafter.The ends of the rafters were to be cut slightly longer (based on the width of the soffit) to provide an over hang. These returns were screwed to the inside of the overhanging rafter so that the return formed a right angle to the brick wall.A plumb line was stretched from the first rafter to the last at the point where the rafter and return were to be cut. The bricks were cut to the appropriate angle so that they were just below the level of the rafters. The slope was then smoothed out using mortar and under cloak strips applied on top of that to provide a flat surface.
To secure the strips even more holes were drilled to coincide with the holes in the bricks and a screw was screwed into the wet cementRoof CoveringOnce the gable end was made up and the rafters were in position and cut to the right size focus can change to the actual covering of the roof itself.
The tiles will rest on battens therefore the first batten at the front of the roof needs to be situated so the first tile is sufficiently overhanging the roof so that rain can run off into the gutter.
Consideration needs to be made on the force that the water will run off when working out the required overhang.
These are laid widthways along the roof taking note of the manufacturers’ instructions on overlap. These are secured in place using the battens which in turn are secured using nails into the rafters.Roof TilesOnce the membrane and battens are secured in place the tiles can be added. It is worth taking the time to workout the layout of the tiles so that you can reduce the number of tiles you need to cut and also to position the tiles in such a way that you don’t end up with small cuts of tiles. The tiles simply reset on the battens and for added security they can be nailed into the battens.
It is advisable for the first row and the top row and alternating ones in between to be nailed down.Fascia and SoffitThe soffit was to be fitted with downlights (IP6n) so before the fascia and soffit were completed cable was installed. Suitable holes were drilled through the returns and the cable was threaded through allowing for some slack. Once the soffit was installed the holes for the lights were drilled through the soffit using a hole saw and the cable pulled through to install the lights.For the fascia measure the width from the outside of the first rafter to the last rafter and cut the fascia to this measurement.

Mark off where the first and last rafter is on the fascia and drill a couple of pilot holes. Secure the fascia board with 4” pollypins but don’t drive them all the way is as it could distort the look of the board.A soffit is added to this roof which is why the rafters overhang the front of the roof. Cut the soffit to the required length and then slide in the soffit where it meets the fascia board and then push up the soffit so it fits flush to the wall. Make up the ends and finish off with corners to hide the joins.GutteringMeasure the width of the actual roof from edge of tile at one end to the edge of the other.
Cut the guttering to the required length bearing in mind any accessories that need to be added like end stops, outlets and joining brackets. Position the brackets so that the guttering will be no more than 1inch lower than the underneath of the roof tiles. Secure the first bracket at the far end and then secure a plum line and stretch it out to the other and mark out the level point. A fall of a maximum of 3mm per metre length needs to be maintained so adjust the level point according to this. Re-adjust the plumb line and mark off the positions for the other brackets based on the level of the plumb line.
Once the brackets are in place the guttering can be added including the relevant accessories like end stops etc.Fitting the downpipe is a matter of fitting together various accessories to move the rain water from the outlet to the drain. This may be as simple as adding a length of downpipe and securing this to the wall using brackets at no more than 2 metre intervals. Lead flashing should be added where the roof meets the wall(s) but this has not yet been completed. Where the membrane rolls up from underneath the tiles and up the walls these were siliconed using a lead silicone to make it waterproof before lead work is completed.This is the completed roof with facia, soffit and guttering in place.

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