How to make storage shed,storage sheds for sale huntsville al news,storage box 50 x 50 years - For Begninners

Even if you had to buy all of the wood, these shelves are still a cost effective way to store your stuff. If you don't have a basement and are limited on space, store stuff under beds, high up in closets, space under sofas, your garage and attic .
A few years after Jocie and I moved into our home, the unfinished side of the basement looked like a we still hadn’t completely unpacked.
If you’ve ever felt like your home could be featured on the TV show Hoarders, you know that good storage is vitally important for every home. Click here to jump down to where I provide step-by-step directions for building your own shelves or read on for a few thoughts about purchasing shelves. There are lots of great shelving options available, and my initial plan was to purchase some. Material: Building your own shelves probably means wood construction, but purchased shelves are available in a variety of materials that provide different benefits. I made two of these supports with ladder rungs on both sides, and two more with ladder rungs only on one side.
One reader brought up some valid concerns about using OSB- specifically strength and potential moisture problems. If you want to really buff up the structure, consider framing the OSB (or plywood) around the perimeter and adding strechers. Subscribe and never miss an article!Free articles delivered conveniently to your inbox(and no spam, we promise)Enjoy this?
Not sure why we didn’t look into building something like these ourselves in the first place, but we purchased five heavy duty plastic shelving units at HoDe for just under what you built this whole unit for.
After looking at the reference to AdvanTech sheathing, it would seem to me that if the cost wasn’t significantly higher, that might be a better choice for moisture- resistance reasons, unless it has much less strength. And yes, they serve incredibly well for pantry food storage also(canned goods, potatoes, and similar) Cedar would be expensive but it sure would help with the bugs we have here. I have been looking for sturdy shelves to hold a record collection, but nothing in the stores that will hold the weight is within my price range. Your beefed up shelving unit will do the trick, especially with edge supports and stretchers. This is a simple design but what you will find is the playwood will start to sag over time.
I’ve done some finish carpentry in the past, but I’m really more of a framer because I like to just throw things together quickly and make them as strong as possible. I recently built some new garage shelves in the home we have been living in for a couple years now. Obviously you don’t have to make all the shelves be the same height, but make sure to have at least one of two rows of shelving tall enough for all of your tallest items. Given the length of the walls I was building my shelves on, I bought my wood in the 8 foot lengths. The wall I built these shelves on was about 14 feet long, so I needed two 8 foot sheets of plywood for each row. Once you know the length of the wall, it’s fairly straightforward as far as counting up how many 2x3s and sheets of plywood you need.
As you can see in the picture below, I also used the perpendicular wall for increased support. After screwing and nailing the boards up on to the wall, you can put up the end boards (2x4s). For those with some kind of baseboard in your garage, you will need to take a chisel and notch out a spot for the vertical 2×4 boards that will go on the ends, against the wall. Repeat this process with the next row up, but before you nail the vertical 2×4 to the second row, make sure to level it vertically with your long level. It’s a little difficult to see in these pictures, but I have also tacked in some support boards between the horizontal beams, coming out perpendicular to the main wall.
As you can see in the picture below, your garage shelves should be strong enough to double as a jungle gym for your kids! One of my goals with this design was that it would be simple enough for almost anyone to build (including myself). Great job, having sold steel shelving for the last 25 years, your system makes great use of the available space, you don’t have to try and fit standard steel shelf bays into the gap. I would suggest trying concrete screws since you really only need the horizontal strength from the wall.
What was the spacing you used on the support boards between the horizontal beams, coming out perpendicular to the main wall and did you toe nail at the wall side?
I actually only used one perpendicular (from the wall) support piece for the entire length of the shelf because when you nail down the plywood shelving you gain plenty of perpendicular strength and the shelves are not deep enough to warrant perpendicular support beams.
The only reason I put one in the middle was to help connect the spot where I had to splice the length of the shelf, and to hold it in place during the framing stage. I’m planning to do my own shelves and found these to be pretty similar to what I had in mind. With a 4 foot span I’m not sure the 2x3s would be sufficient, especially if you plan on storing a lot of heavy items on them.
If you want to keep the paneling to match the rest of the garage you should be fine to leave it up.
I love the design however I want to center my shelves on a wall and not have them attached to another perpendicular wall on the end like yours are.
You really made a good job Michael having shelves like this in our garage can make all stuff in one place, my dad tried the steel before but measuring the gap really took a long time.
I had build a wall of shelves 8 years ago and have to disassemble them do to water leakage into my basement. I keep thinking about the square dimensions of the posts used in decking but believe I may be underestimating how strong wood can be.
In your case I would probably add some vertical beams to your interior wall in addition to the ones on the outside of the shelves.
As far as your concrete block wall is concerned, I would just use a concrete drill bit to pre-drill some holes and use concrete screws to attach the boards. Thanks for sharing your success story – I’m glad to hear it worked out for you! Before I went on my trip I hit a breaking point, we have been tripping over a roll of carpet in my basement for months, and I was done. It was totally spur of the moment and I really didn't have time to do it, but I couldn't stand seeing it on the floor in my basement ONE MORE MINUTE!
On the right is after I cleared all the stuff off the shelves, it took FOREVER, and I kept thinking why was I compelled to do this?!
Anyway, here is the carpet all laid, I cut some out of the room and pulled it in to cut the rest.
After some research I pulled up "How to store your stuff" from DIY Design Fanatic, and used that as my guide. I used clamps and a level to position it where I wanted and also made sure the shelf was at the correct height (I learned that from experience, good thing I didn't use glue).


Perhaps it's because I won't have to go to the garage for bins in freezing winter, because all my bins are now in the house? Regardless, I swear I couldn't walk downstairs for the first few days with out taking a trip to admire my new storage shelves!
I have already reaped the benefits of this wonderful creation, and I could sing a song every time I effortlessly reach reach for the bin I need and then just as quickly place it back! Here at Hometipsworld we look for interesting articles covering home improvement, cleaning and gardening tips from around the world.
DIY reused all of the materials from the old shelving units and bought some extra 2 x 4's to make a 3rd shelving unit. Screws are so much better to put shelving together because this allows you to take them apart if you have to rework them another time.
With the right shelves, bins and probably a yard sale, you can eliminate clutter and create a well organized space. By changing the individual shelf height, you can ensure that there isn’t any wasted space from a shelf being too big or too small. You make a lot of the same cuts, there are no difficult calculations, and the shelves go together quickly. I took some time to update the post, add additional thoughts, and make the instructions easier to understand.
They have a bunch of nice solid sheet metal shelves that are just bolted to 2x3s, some actually on their original supports, and a bunch more which are just sitting in their barn (along with a trailer containing a 2 story thing shelving unit that they haven’t gotten around to installing). These are white wire shelves what are pretty easy to adjust, and they used to hold dishes (LOTS of dishes) so I know they are super strong.
Perhaps enough to pull it off of the bricks depending on your span unless there was a spreader of some type. The sad thing is they aren’t wide enough to put two Rubbermaid containers side by side like the old metal units we had from our last home so we had to find boxes to put things in. At the end of the post I describe ways to improve the strength of these shelves, and adding ribs is one of them. The way we’ve built them can easily be adapted to fit these shelves and they will be much stronger. I run one in my concrete floor and walled partial basement to prevent mold on all my precious junk. Got a question on your own project?Ask your question in our Home Improvement Help Forums.Otherwise, leave a note here! With garage shelves, in my opinion, they don’t need to look fancy, but they do need to be sturdy – I’ve seen far too many saggy garage shelves that look like they’re going to come tumbling down at any moment. Divide this distance by the height of the tallest item you will be keeping on your shelves.
I made our bottom two shelves taller to hold the larger, heavier items (like food storage), and made the upper shelves a little bit shorter to hold the smaller, lighter items. If your bottom shelf will have a 21 inch space under it, measure up 24 ? inches and use your level to draw a horizontal line all the way across the wall.
I used a combination of 2x4s (for the vertical support posts), and 2x3s (for the main horizontal framework, including the boards tacked to the wall).
For a 14 foot wall, I used 5 2×4 vertical posts, two on the end and three in the middle, each spaced about 3 ? feet apart.
This is the fun part and if you’ve already measured and marked everything, the building portion should go fairly quickly (with this design). Place them over the horizontal lines you drew and put a nail in at each vertical line (where the studs are). Measure and cut these boards (and all the other vertical support 2x4s) to be ? inch taller than the highest board against the wall. Start at the bottom and place something under one end, while you nail the other end to the perpendicular board that is against the wall.
After you have leveled the 2×4 and nailed it to the second row, the remaining rows will go quickly. They should fit right into your frame and once nailed down will offer additional strength coming out of the wall, as well as side to side. With the budget you have, you can actually do a lot of things with it but make sure to canvass for cheap but quality materials.
My main goal was to build shelves that wouldn’t sag and would hold up well in the long run. Is there any way you could make the shelves within your system adjustable to give you even better use of space ?
I would think that you could use this same design, just duplicate the back and front sides with the vertical beams, and then make sure to include some kind of diagonal support beams that go from the top left to bottom right, and top right to bottom left corners to maintain the horizontal strength. These should work since you don’t need the vertical strength from the wall, just horizontal. It’s hard to resist a good opportunity to build something yourself and save some money! You will have to pre-drill the holes with a hammer drill and a concrete drill bit, but concrete screws should work, in my opinion. If you decided to use thinner plywood than I did then you might need to add in more support beams. Just be sure you are screwing and or nailing into a stud behind the wall and not just into the panelling.
Since those were secured to each horizontal shelf they really don’t move down on the floor. I just finished building these shelves in the center of a wall in my garage, there is no wall to attach to at either end.
For the spacing of the vertical beams, I would try not to go beyond 4ft, unless you plan on using thicker horizontal beams. You could then cut all of the horizontal beams, that are to attach to the interior wall, to fit in between the vertical beams.
For the width (or depth) of the shelves, I just measured the the widest item I knew I would be storing on the shelves and then made them an inch or two wider than that. These simple shelves are easy to make and great way to initiate yourself into woodworking projects, if you’re new to the craft. It would have been much more difficult to take apart the old shelves to make the new ones had he used nails. I’ve also found that those big, Rubbermaid bins are perfect for keeping things organized. You’ll also lose a little space but the sacrifice is worthwhile especially if you plan on storing really heavy items.
I got as many of these shelves as I could fit in my house, I have 5 sets in the basement, one full of dishes, one is a pantry, and the other three are just plain old storage. The difficulty usually comes in hauling it or finding shelves small enough to fit in a basement or garage space, at least that was my problem. What do you think about the addition of attaching the bottom shelf supports to the floor with concrete anchors (while still using the joists for fixed attachment at the top)?


Do I use 2×3 underneath the shelf itself and where do you anchore the 2×3 anchore supports underneath? About 58% humidity works without running a big electric bill as dehumidifiers use a lot of watts.
In fact, I’ve actually had a pet killed by some pre-built garage shelves that collapsed. I wanted to share my experience to give other DIY-ers an idea of a simple shelving design that is built to last. I would also recommend storing all of your DIY chemicals like herbicides, pesticides, or cleaners on the top shelf, so your children cannot reach them (easily…). Take your stud finder across the wall horizontally (twice), once up higher, and once down lower and mark each stud. The next horizontal line should be 24 ? inches above that line (assuming all of your shelves will be the same height).
I also used ? inch thick plywood for the shelving surface, with the smoother side of the plywood facing up. You can do whatever you want here, but make sure you don’t go too far between the posts so you have enough strength. This is so that when you lay the plywood down on the top shelf it will fit into the frame for additional support. Replace whatever you were using to support the other end with the first vertical support 2×4. I would still check each row with the level as some boards can be warped and will need to be bent into place. I guess I should have mentioned that $60 of that $200 was buying a new box of screws and a nails for my nail gun, which I obviously didn’t use all of them. I also wanted to use wood because it’s cheaper and I already had all the tools to do it easily. Instead of buying a shelving system, I thought it might be more price-efficient to try and reuse the planks we have.
You might want to go with an entirely new design for your situation, however, since this design gains most of its strength from being attached to the wall. Some concrete screws come with a concrete drill bit that is the right diameter for the screws you are buying.
As far as vertical strength is concerned, I personally think the 2x4s are good enough for your situation. Do you think I should remove the paneling from the wall that I’m building shelves on? I will say that you should make sure they are all the way down on the floor before tacking them into place up above, to ensure that they are supporting the vertical weight of the shelf. At the same time, it might work just fine since each of the vertical beams would be attached to more than two horizontal shelves, hindering that side-to-side movement. I will share information about how to build garage shelves, for the people who don’t have any idea about garage shelving, this information will be important.
The shelves were built and installed in about five hours, and they were by far the cheapest solution I found. This is a really good idea in case your basement ever floods and it transfers some of the weight off the floor joists. If you don’t have a table saw or circular saw handy, get the sheets cut when you purchase them at your local DIY center.
I deleted all the original comments but made sure to address any questions, concerns or insights they brought to light. Since they came from a store, they were really tall (like 9-10 feet) and needed to be trimmed to fit in my short little basement.
Only needed two 8′ legs on the front and the unit is strong enough for me to climb up them even when loaded. Or at least a block on the floor under the center of the bottom shelf, and legs in the center, the rest of the way up to the bottom of the top shelf. This would equal roughly 4.4, which means that you have enough room for 4 rows of shelving with 21 inches of usable height. Then take a 4 ft (or longer) level and trace a straight vertical line between the upper and lower marks. Nail it into place with only one nail so you can still pivot the board side to side and level it. I personally go for wood than any other material for shelves because 1) it is easy to work with 2) it is exudes a classic warm appeal. I wanted the spacing to be large enough so I could get large tubs in and out, but still have enough support.
Having it attached to the wall should also help to prevent it from collapsing to the side, but again, I’m really not sure. I do wish I had a few more inches when storing some of my larger coolers, but I am still able to get them in.
Once I knew that depth I wanted, I pre-cut all my plywood to that width so those pieces would just lay right into the frame. As you know garage is the place for you to store your vehicle’s, cars, motorcycle and the other, and I’m sure you need more than single utilities for your vehicles, I’m talking about treatment. I plan on using 3″ drywall screws to put it together so we can disassemble and move when we move. My shelves were about 21 inches deep so I was able to get two, 8 foot long pieces out of each sheet.
If you plan on spacing your vertical beams at 4ft, or longer, I would at least upgrade your horizontal beams to 2x4s instead of 2x3s. This vertical line will be your guide to help you see where to screw the boards to the wall.
I found this depth to be good for most tubs and other large items you would store, and plenty of room for storing several smaller items. Especially when you get to use "that triangle thing" and it actually comes out SQUARE! You need better garage shelving and organizing, first you need to think about design, well, I’m sure you will have many ideas, but many ideas will be useless without realization, so you better start your own garage shelving plan right away. You can start by looking for better design of garage shelving, many people who already succeed with their project commonly share their creation on internet, or you can see the picture of garage shelving below.So, have you seen the picture? First you need to start with planning, designing is the most difficult thing, but with many reference on internet, I’m sure you will get the right design. After you get the right design, the next thing is gather the material and the required tools; you need to know how to deal with tools. Installation will be the last process, use the right tools and follow the design, I’m sure the rest will be easier for you.



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how to make storage shed



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