How to refinish ak 47 wood furniture,small firewood shed plans uk,lifetime shed box size limit - 2016 Feature

While many AK owners sooner or later give in to their tactification urges, there is a lot to be said for the menacing beauty that a nicely finished wood furniture AK offers. While doing what is now known as "research" we came across a series of very detailed forum posts on this topic by AIMSMALL Arms Inc who generously gave us permission to rework his original material into this "how to" article on how to refinish the wood furniture on the AK-47".
Oh yeah; as always, before doing anything first remove your magazine and check you chamber. Figure 13: Now use a thick, glossy business card to scrape off the strepper and varnish residue. After this 30-40 minute "soak period" AIMSMALL recommends scrubbing the entire surface with the toothbrush to loosen up and remove any remaining varnish that didn't come off the first time around. Figure 25: Here it is after it has completely dried for 24 hours, it has not yet been sanded at this point. Sand the entire stock going with the grain with 100 or 120 grit being very careful not to remove much wood near any edges where metal buts up against the wood and also near the vents of the handguards.
Figure 28: Gently sand the entire stock with increasing grit (100-->220) following the grain of the wood. After sanding the entire stock with 100 to where the colors, grains and imperfections are how you want them switch to 220 grit and again sand the entire stock going with the grain as much as possible. Next step is to pre treat the wood for staining, for this AIMSMALL used the Minwax wood conditioner. For the stain AIMSMALL used minwax Gunstock #231 but there are lots of different shades available.
If you AK-47 furniture has matching serial numbers (never seen a WASR-10 with serialized woodwork) you'll want to preserve those and be very careful around them while sanding, or tape over them with painters tape. Figure 37: After each coat of clear is completely dry, sand entire stock with 0000 steel wool. Figure 40: Your AK stock after sanding (as you can tell from the groove this is an AK-74 stock.

The thing I liked better about the process for the poly was that you just wipe it on and let it dry, no buffing off wet sticky oil.
As mentioned above, all the material and photo's in this article were created by AIMSMALL, and originally posted as a "how to refinish the AK Stock" tutorial on the CalGuns forum. Unfortunately most AK's you buy in the local gun store can not be described as "nicely finished". AIMSMALL Arms Inc also made all (45!) photos that are used as illustrations in this article. Remember; every year there are more people getting shot accidentally by "unloaded" guns than there are people that get attacked by sharks. Steaming is a simple process, you will need a bucket of water, a nice, clean, cotton rag (AIMSMALL used the ones from Costco), and an iron. If you aren't careful you could cause the wood to not line up nicely with the metal parts and it will be noticeable. If you try to just sand problem areas with 100 and then the entire stock with 220 it will not look as good when your done.
He used another strip of the t-shirt to apply a nice heavy coat of stain to the entire stock. It is ok to sand over them a little but just be very gentle and only use the finest sandpaper you intend to use on the rest of the wood. For the wipe on poly it went like this: Wipe the first coat on with a t-shirt strip wait at least 3 hours. Next blow off with air and wipe down with clean t-shirt strip then apply another coat of wipe on poly.
The process is a little more tedious then the "wipe on poly" in my opinion and I think I like the way the poly looks a little better too.
The trade off is that you will need to buff the dry poly coats with steel wool before each additional coat can be applied, with the Tung oil you just add another coat.

For this reason we have been planning to do a tutorial on how to refinish original AK wood furniture for a while now. Just completely soak the rag in the water and then fold the rag in half so you have two layers and set it right over the dent, press the hot iron onto the rag and hold it there for 20 seconds or so. If you are going to refinish the metal parts you may want to put them back on for the sanding stages but beware, they will need to be refinished if you do this. Apply with a strip of an old t shirt and let soak for at least 15-20 minutes and then apply the first coat of stain within 2 hours (directions on the can).
For the Tung oil you do everything the same up until the staining is all done then you wipe it on and wait 5-15 minutes before buffing it off with a clean strip of an old t-shirt.
The poly process seemed to be easier overall because I was able to work for a few minutes then walk away and come back to it whenever I wanted. The AK in the article is not a WASR-10, but refinishing the a WASR works the same way of course. I found that the tung oil would get very tacky after 6 or 7 minutes making it really hard to buff off so I immediately added a fresh coat of tung oil and then buffed it right away. With the Tung oil you have to commit to the time it takes to get through first coating the AK furniture, then waiting 5-15 minutes, then re-coat to break the stickiness, then buff. Remember to keep the rag wet so it will steam every time and set the iron to the highest setting too.

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how to refinish ak 47 wood furniture

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