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This leather sheath kit for a fixed blade knife is a great way to get started in leather working and allows you to cutomise a blank canvas to how you would like the finished product. If you are lazy, of course you can use your bandsaw and electric power-file or even a CNC machine.
Your knife will have a weight of about 200g, a little more if you don't use pre-polished steel. Then cut out the contour of the throwing knife with the pair of scissors, making sure nothing of the black outline remains (sandpaper can be helpful here). On the bottom of this page, you can find the blueprint for a heavier throwing knife, if this is more to your liking.
Be sure to always tightly clamp the steel in your vise bench, with only 20mm of metal between saw and bench. When starting to work on a new segment, do not directly use the saw to enter the steel, but first produce a groove with the triangular file! If things get too tight in a curve, use the chisel or screwdriver to widen the gap (see picture on the right). Using the bastard and smooth files, work on the outline until the last bit of the black markings is gone. Now you may work on the handle end (using first the coarse, then the smooth file, as usual).

The last step is polishing the throwing knife until you have an even, shiny surface and edges. This simple and heavy design (see the blueprint with measurements, or CAD-file above) can be thrown from the handle and from the blade. Now with these photo-instructions provided by Christof Weese, it's easy to make one in your basement or garage, without the need for expensive machinery.
If your target is constructed from dry glulam wood planks or you throw from very close distances, expect to straighten your knife once in a while (simply lay it across two bricks, or place it in the vise bench).
In fact, after printing, I suggest you take a ruler to see if the knife outline really has a length of 28cm on the paper. This shouldn't be terribly expensive, and if you can go for the CNC option, you might as well start with your own, more complicated design. Then use some edge or ruler to check the center of gravity of the template: it should be in the middle of the longitudinal axis of the knife, with an allowed shift of 1cm into the direction of the tip. The goal is to take away exactly so much steel that the center of gravity comes to lie precisely in the middle of the knife.
If you want, you can wrap the handle with textile tape of a contrasting color, for looks and an improved grip, and to better find it in the grass. When clamping, make sure your work piece is clean, and also put a thick sheet of paper between steel and bench jaws, to avoid scratches on your knife surface.

Thus, you can't slice with your knife, but a hit on a nail or another knife won't immediately destroy it. It is available in different grades of surface finish, from simply milled to sanded on all sides. Of course you can directly open the file with a graphics editor, but getting the printout to be of the right size will be more difficult here. Only at the tip of the blade, the edges should come together, to allow for a smooth entry into the target wood. Just for the curious, strip steel is a construction steel of low hardness, which can not be hardened (but as with any throwing knife, you rather prefer to bend it back in shape than to have it break).
The last variant is a little bit thinner (2.7mm), but will make your life a lot easier when you later polish the throwing knife.

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