Metal shed roof design architecture,storage barns in nc,sheds brewer maine weather - Review

The other building, which sits at a higher elevation, has a similar shed roof, even though it is not bermed into the ground. The advantage of modular roof trays like the ones used on this shed roof is that they come preplanted, so you dona€™t have to worry about whether your plantings will take.Photo of a rustic detached gardening shed in Philadelphia. The vertical space that is created as a result of the two jutting roof angles is the perfect spot for clerestory windows.Inspiration for a contemporary exterior in Grand Rapids with wood siding and a shed roof.
Much of the complex was built from blown-down trees, also providing a clearing for the buildings to receive sunlight in the dense environs. Materials - The roof slope has a direct effect on the materials a shed roof can be covered with. When we purchased our house last year, the previous owner mentioned that during prolonged periods of rain the below-grade slab beneath the house (garage, basement) becomes “damp.” We had just such a period this spring, and damp = about three inches of water. Our house is surrounded on three sides by typical California concrete hardscaped patio, backed by concrete block retaining walls (house is set into a small hill). When the house was built, the concrete patio was engineered so that water flows away from the house, with a half-step down between the back of the house and each side.
I want to keep the water out of our basement, but do not want to resort to water proofing the entire foundation (expensive), or sawing concrete and installing drains (less expensive). I don't know the shape or height of the deck, so this may not make sense but what about some of that corrugated fiberglass sheeting installed on an angle below the deck boards? I assume since you say your house is set into a hill, that the house is higher than the water table after significant rains? My current house is set into a hill and had some drainage issues which we took care of by trenching, installing PVC pipe to carry everything to the street and a sump pump at the lowest level.
I do not believe that there is a significant amount of water coming into through the foundation from the hill at the back of the house, as there’s hardpan clay after a foot or so of friable soil: I am not a hydrologist, so I may be completely misguided about this. Well, water still moves through clay, and clay can hold quite a bit of it- (one of the reasons clay soils on slopes are prone to slippage).
Where I live, it is no longer allowed to drain water off one's property; if you do any sort of work that requires a permit, you've got to re-engineer your drainage so that all water collected on site stays on site. Could you install a dry well where the water collects (or right in front of it) and run any gutters toward it as well? You said you don't want to saw concrete, but the best solution is probably going to be to have the deck taken out.


If you need to re-slope the concrete, you can buy repair mortars that are suitable for thin coating applications (usually some sort of epoxy modified concrete).
Also, when you say the slab has receded, does that mean it's settled or that voids have developed beneath it? It's durable, and also, when covered with gravel as I plan to do, not going to get hit with UV rays like an exposed roof, so I imagine it'll last a long time.
About the slope in back of the house: If there's water coming off the slope that's infiltrating under the patio slab, could that be be fixed by French drains, or even swales? What to do with the rainwater: It'd be great to capture it in a catch basin of some sort and use it for gardening. Water table: Heh, heh, I don't think there's much of a water table in our southern California back yard to worry about.
I would definitely investigate the mudjacking, it's probably not as expensive as you think.
Although you could probably build the deck on top of the slab, it's hard to say whether or not you'll get a building inspector that insists on dug footers.
If you're concerned about the joint between the slab and the foundation, you can put in an expansion joint by stuffing it with polyurethane backer rod and filling it with caulk. The big caveat to all this advice is that without seeing the layout of your yard and the condition of the slab, it's almost impossible to tell you what to do. You're probably right, since you know where your house is, but don't assume SoCal = no water table.
Ask MetaFilter is a question and answer site that covers nearly any question on earth, where members help each other solve problems. Again, the tall space is oriented to the sun, though it is shifted relative to the main building so as to capture views past it.Contemporary exterior in Seattle with wood siding and a shed roof. Wood too light and warm.This is an example of a modern exterior in Seattle with wood siding.
The main building, in the foreground, is partially bermed into the slope, opening up to the sunlight and shedding water and snow to the rear.Inspiration for a contemporary exterior in Seattle with metal siding and a shed roof. Any slope less than 2 inches in 12 inches is considered flat and must be waterproofed as such. I believe rain water is entering through two locations: (1) at the concrete block foundation-concrete patio interface, and (2) through several hairline cracks in the patio slab.


Water is meant to run off the back of the patio to the sides, emptying off the side of the patio to the street, but after almost six decades of seismic activity some of the slab has receded an inch or so here and there, and now about an inch of water collects near the foundation when it rains, rather than pouring off the front of the patio (most water does pour of the front). I want to know if the following idea makes sense as less expensive solution that leaves the existing concrete intact. Pour a thin layer of pebble gravel on the patio and grade so that it slopes away from the house, using a level. Lay a flexible, waterproof fabric over the gravel, coving the fabric up the side of the concrete block of the foundation. For aesthetics, pour another thin layer of gravel over the membrane, and then add a low lying deck to protect and cover the gravel (we wanted to hide the concrete anyway). Have an engineer come take a look before you build a deck that ends up getting ripped out next January.
We have some fairly shitty drainage issues here (in NH) and I've been looking at dry wells and drainage tiles. And if it starts leaking after a few years, I could just remove the top gravel layer and recoat (but I don't think that'll be necessary).
I have a landscape architect who's coming to take a look, so perhaps she'll know what the best practice is for our situation. I'm not too worried about piping water to the street, as that's what's happening now (just not very efficiently). At this point, the patio should be waterproof, and the foundation-patio interface protected. Susan Carpenter at the LA Times had an article a while back about her 3000 gallon infiltration pit and installation etc, but can't find it online.
This is important not only to help with the water in your basement, but to keep your retaining walls intact.
That had a waterproof deck coating (a kind of plastic paint, with some kind of membrane underneath), but my memory is foggy on the details. I do remember that it was more trouble than it was worth though, as it got weakened pretty fast by harsh sun exposure.



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