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This plan is your guide to making a simply beautiful table.A This everyday table is modeled on Julia Childa€™s original kitchen table.
Add vacuum press veneering to your woodworking skill set by building a bowfront cabinet that features a subtle curve on its flush front and a beautiful mix of cherry, Douglas fir, and cocobolo.
When we designed this Shaker-style cabinet, we set out to create a compact, yet attractive, piece of furniture with features and storage galore. We included in the cabinet a quality mechanical lift with which you can raise your sewing machine to two working positions, or lower it for easy out-of-sight storage. Divided glass panes and traditional moldings give these stacked cabinets a stately look, while wide sides create deep, ample display room. Because the lower and upper cases face frames, and door frames of this handsome project employ the same joinery, you can eliminate repeat setups by machining the parts for both cabinet at the same time.
Looking for a space-saving cabinet to hold your TV, electronics components, videos, and CDs? Keeping the grain pattern of the bed’s base side panels continuous makes the drawers look best. I used a thin-kerf blade in my circular saw, guided by a straightedge clamped to the panel surface. Thats a shadow your seeing, but that is an interesting idea using darker wood for the drawer rails. The clearance under the nightstands and dresser is 5", the same as under the king-size bed. I read somewhere not to think about construction while designing, as that will stifle new ideas.
Click on a picture to get a larger picture and then used the back button of the browser to return. All measurements are in inches (1 inches = 2.54 cm) because all wood measurements in the shop are in inches. I my opinion the clock starts ticking from the moment I pick up the lumber, because from that moment on everything is under my control. Before we begin it is important that we all speak the same language, so that when I use a term you know what I am talking about.
While I was waiting for the order of rough sawn red oak to come in, I felt this was a good time to make the templates I would need. The mirror frame needs to be made first so that a perfect fit can be made with the decorative boards, vertical supports and slats. First we need to calculate how much extra length we need for the 8 mirror frame segments because the fingers of one piece mesh with the complementary fingers of the adjacent piece. Cut the eight mirror frame pieces as per drawing 4, and with the outside lengths as calculated above, which might be different when you use a different finger joint router bit.
With the four quadrants still strapped together, trace the outside and inside of the mirror frame template on each of the four quarants. If you have to custom order the mirror you may have to give them your frame or a template so they can fit the mirror to the size the rabbit slot.
To ensure that the whole mirror backboard is absolutely flat, I use a sheet of melamine on top of my work bench. Mark the place on the bottom of each decorative board where the mortise has to come for the tenon of the vertical support.
With the decorative board assemblies in their proper place trace both sides of the decorative boards with a pencil onto the melamine starting from the vertical support towards the centre where the mirror frame will come. I stained and varnished the mirror back board immediately rather than waiting 6 or 7 months for the rest to be finished.
Next cut the milled stock to the exact lengths of legs and stretchers, discarding the end cut offs. I recommend that you only mark the mortise centres for the stretchers at this time so that you don't get confused with the mortise centres for the slide supports. Dry-fit the legs, side stretchers and back stretchers of the nightstands all together (picture 33). On the back stretchers all that needs to be done is mark on the inside the exact location of the 2" wide legs. Work with attention and don’t forget that a good planning will save you from many issues and it will keep the costs withing the total budget. Make sure you follow us on Facebook to be the first that gets our latest plans and for some other exclusive content. Also, follow us on Pinterest to get many ideas for your backyard from all the internet! The first step of the woodworking project is to build the frame of the nightstand, using the instructions described in the diagram. For a professional result, we recommend you to fit 1×2 trims to the front face of the nightstand. In order to move the nightstand easily from one place to another, we recommend you to attach caster wheels to the four corners of the bottom slat.
In order to enhance the look of the simple nightstand, we recommend you to attach 1×4 slats to the top.
Top Tip: If you want to enhance the look of the woodworking project and to protect the stand from decay, we recommend you to cover the components with paint or stain. Purchased in Norway in 1960, ita€™s the farm table at which Julia and her husband Paul ate most of their meals.
Professional furniture maker and native of Louisiana, Greg Arceneaux has been making this creole-style table for decades. This Louisiana-style table features cabriole legs and scalloped aprons while the lack of carvings, inlays, or other complex details lends a rustic feel. This vanity has great proportions and simple lines, with a mirrored door that is simple to make.
Woodworker Jennifer Anderson designed the legs on this table with a pronounced taper that is wider at the top to echo the shape of the calla lilies that grow wild on the California coast. Youa€™ll learn how to make shop-sawn veneers for curved doors and drawers and a few joinery tricks for making drawers with curved fronts. The simplicity and grace of Shaker style has assured itself a place in history as a beloved example of authentic Americana. You find this project a fitting showcase for fine tableware, collectibles, and your woodworking skills. And no wood matches the durability and popularity of oak.Thata€™s why we combined the two in this mortise-and-tenon-framed storage chest.
Starting as a crib for a newborn, this a€?Sleep Systema€? easily changes into a bed for a toddler, and then into a full bed, serving a child well past adolescence.
But to make that happen, you have to cut each piece from single pieces of plywood, with drawer openings prepped using plunge cuts from a circular saw. Before you cut, make sure you support the would-be drawer faces so they don’t fall out and break their edges. The left and right side of the dresser is basically the same as the nightstands, but with one more drawer. Right nightstand will be a mirror image.The drawing shows a flat side panel, but the final product will have a moreelegant raised panel.
Construction overview without drawers, andwithout the right side panel to show internal details. This is my preferred design, becausethe decorative board brings the whole bedroom suite together.
Exploded construction overview without drawers.Select multi-page PDF (540 KB) for a four-page drawing. Compare the nightstand and dresser list, and you will notice that many pieces have the same thickness and width. Slats that meet the decorative board or mirror frame have 1" extra in overall length for shaping.
For the plywood that is done by making a cutting plan using the standard 5 x 5 feet Baltic birch sheets.
Stack the rough sawn red oak and poplar in the workshop with thin slats between each board to let them adjust to the temperature and humidity of the workshop for at least a week, but preferably 2 to 4 weeks. Take the list of measured lumber and decide on the most economical way to cut each piece up into the various parts needed for the project.


Although the oval shape can be drawn using the two focal points, a piece of string and a pencil, I decided to create a template for the bottom right quadrant of the mirror frame. I did not make a new template; I simply reused the template for the decorative board of the king-size bed project (king-size bed project, drawing 4). This template can be used for the inside and outside of the drawer fronts, as well as the top panels, and front stretchers of the nightstands and dresser.
Secondly, finger joint router bits you buy may well be different from the one I bought at Lee Valley. Take into account any possible snipe of your planer which adds about 3" to the length on each end. Put the segments together in the correct order making sure that the finger joints are clean.
Distribute the frame evenly left-right and top-bottom, using the quadrant joint lines and the outside height and width of the frame. Again, due to the various wood grain directions it is recommended to do one pass climb routing and finish it with one pass in the normal direction. An important step is to look at each piece of wood and decided where it should come and in which orientation. First we need to make a template so that we can route out the curve in the front stretchers using a template router bit. This is also a good time to sand both sufaces of the glued up boards with a random orbit sander and 220 grid paper.
Mark the outside face off each side stretcher as the reference surface that will be placed against the Leigh FMT clamp plate.
First mark the outside face off each leg as the reference surface that will be placed against the Leigh FMT clamp plate.
This allow you to visually verify where you have to cut the matching mortises on the side stretchers and front legs. The centre of the mortises is in this case 2" from the front of the front leg, or in other words at the joint between the leg and the side stretcher. If you want to learn more about building a simple nightstand for your home, we recommend you to take a look over the instructions described in the article. Cut the plywood at the right size and smooth the edges with sandpaper before securing it to the structure using finishing nails.
Cut the slats at the right size and smooth the edges with a sander and fine-grit sandpaper. Therefore, fill the pilot holes with wood putty and smooth the surface with 120-grit sandpaper. If you want to see more outdoor plans, we recommend you to check out the rest of our step by step projects. LIKE us on Facebook and Google + to be the first that gets out latest projects and to hep us keep adding free woodworking plans for you. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper.
It is now on display at the Smithsonian where it so fascinated Mario Rodriguez that he created this plan for reproducing a similar version.
It is a reproduction of an original built around 1800 and a fine example of a regional style that blends French and Spanish refinement with country simplicity.
The cut-away top was designed to put the legs on full display, and aprons were shaped with an arc to reinforce the theme. This wall cabinet might be small, but ita€™s chock-full of great techniques that open up a new world of woodworking. With this printed plan, you can build a refined version of this iconic round stand that is as beautiful as it is practical. Follow our detailed instructions and create an heirloom to hold precious memories for generations to come.
Youa€™ll find the construction of this piece strictly straightforward, with groove-and-tenon joints you cut with only a tablesaw.
Simple decorative connector bolts and concealed cross dowels make these quick changes possible.
Fire up the saw, then carefully plunge the blade down completely into the drawer-face side of the cut line, near, but not at the end of the line. I figure that given the time, I can make something unique that we both like, that is perhaps cheaper, and rock solid. The centre section is straight having two large drawers at the bottom and two smaller drawers at the top. The reason for doing the construction of the nightstands and the dresser at the same time is that several pieces have the same size and can all be machined at the same time, thus reducing construction time.
Give yourself 3 to 4 inches on each end of lumber, or 6 to 8 inches extra, because when you run material through the planer it often have some indentation in the first few inches; also called snipe. One is to cut the segments to the exact size as in drawing 4, and then strengthen each joint with two #20 biscuits above each other and glue them together.
Select the best face of each segment to face up, as that will eventually be the front side of the mirror frame. Cut out the traced oval shape with the bandsaw and sand the edge so that the plywood fits loosely inside the routed rabbit. Marked a centre line on the melamine that is perpendicular to the straight edge to be able to position the mirror frame perpendicular to the bottom en in the centre. Mark the centre of where the decorative boards join the mirror frame, the centre where the decorative boards will eventually rest on the dresser and the centre on the bottom of the mirror frame where it will rest eventually on the dresser. Mark where the bottom slats meet the decorative boards, vertical supports and mirror frame at 1" from the bottom. Due to the various wood grain directions it is recommended to do one pass climb routing (with the rotation of the router bit) and finish it with one pass in the normal direction. Fill up any imperfections or gaps using a good red oak wood filler and sand flush when dry.
Next clamp the plywood template on top of a front stretcher and clamp both onto a workbench, making sure that the template is properly lined up. Apply glue to the joining edges and clamp them together using good quality clamps, such as Bessey K-clamps. For the centre stretchers of the dresser mark the side facing the middle section of the dresser. The top mortises is tricky as you may not have enough clamping support, so consider using a jig described in the FMT user guide (picture 28). Otherwise the cut of the mortises in the side stretchers is the same as for the 6" wide ends. Work with good judgement and don’t forget to take a look over the rest of the related plans, as there are many designs and woodworking projects to select from. Drill pocket holes before inserting the galvanized screws, to prevent the wood from splitting. Drill pocket holes at the top of the vertical trims and at both ends of the small horizontal components. The door is assembled with slip tenons, and the frame is rabbeted before assembly to ensure a perfectly square recess for the mirror. Even the frame-and-panel that supports the drawer from underneath was integrated into the decorative design. With the saw base sitting flat, carefully slide the tool back and forth until the saw kerf touches both ends of the line you’re cutting–not beyond. As you cut the drawer pieces from the base side panel, mark the backs of the cutouts so you’ll know where they fit later. After the successful King-size Bed construction, my wife was pushing me very hard to make the matching nightstands and dresser with mirror before the winter season was over, and I would disappear outside for the summer yard work.
Obviously, you can only do that when you have the woodworking machines to mill the stock, i.e. Straighten one edge of each board on the jointer and make it perpendicular to one of the faces. Do not sand the straight edges with the drum sander where the decorative board will attach to the dresser and where the decorative board will attach to the vertical support.
Chisel out the mortise and fit the vertical support such that the faces of the decorative board and the vertical support are flush with each other.


Place the mirror frame -- without cleats, mirror and mirror backing --, face up, on the centre line. The Woodwise wood filler I am using is applied to the bare wood, and stains and varnishes perfectly. I had a few pieces were the knots broke out during milling, but nobody will see it because the bad spots face inside. Trace the curve from drawing 21 on one end, and cut away the material on the narrow side with the table saw such that it is exactly 4" wide. Press the boards against the clamp bar to keep everything flat, and use clamps on both sides of the boards. Set the distance between the fence and the router bit such that you don't get that extra ridge that is typical for raised panels.
You can use the following table for that, where each measurement is from the bottom of the leg.
The cove molding for the cornice is cut at the tablesaw and assembled before it is attached to the cabinet. The doors below hide a pair of file drawers and plenty of storage for your CPU and other supplies. Just remember to retract the saw blade so it doesn’t go all the way through the foam when the saw is plunged fully. It took me a while to design the nightstands and dresser, but I think that I found the design that complements the king-size bed design.
As the overall attempt is to create a sort of rugged feeling, this ratio -- also called phi, or golden ratio -- is not applied during this design. Problem is that my bandsaw has only a 6" capacity, and is not suitable for a proper resaw blade. So you better read over the construction details of the drawers first before even thinking about this project. Identify spots that cannot be used, or that you don't like to use, for example extreme discolouration. Next glue the two pieces of one quadrant together by applying glue to all finger joint surfaces of one segment only.
Place the old mirror on a flat surface, and fix the template to the mirror side of the old mirror with double sided tape.
With the vertical supports dry fitted with the decorative boards place the assemblies on the melamine sheet against the left and right stops.
The true centre of the mirror frame is the middle of the top and bottom fingerjoints, however I use the visible joints on the face of the mirror frame instead.
Put the slat shoulder against the vertical support as appropriate and trace the shape of the decorative board or mirror frame onto the side of the slat. Glue the 4 top slats in place, making sure that they are flush with the face of the assembly.
The top front stretcher will be flush with the front of the front leg and the top of the top side stretcher.
Buying another bandsaw was out of the question, as I have no future projects lined up where I would need such a bandsaw. Carefully trim one of the middle segments to make that a tight joint as well, and do the same with a middle segment on the other side. Put all the segments together again and tighten the strap so that there is no gap in the glued joint.
The next step is a careful trimming of the decorative board with the disk sander where it touches the vertical support and where it touches the straight edge, while ensuring that the vertical support is indeed perpendicular to the straight edge. Create a flat bottom on the mirror frame over a width of about 3" using the disk sander.
As this template is used for the front stretchers and the top panels, it is worth while to do as good a job as possible. At this point every piece should be properly labeled so that it is obvious which tenon goes into which mortise and in what orientation. Mark the vertical position of the mortises for the back stretchers on the outside back legs of the nightstands and dresser. The bottom front stretcher will be flush with the front of the front leg and the bottom of the bottom side stretcher. Whatever the method, make sure that the finished length is exactly 82", and the shoulders are perpendicular to the edges.
It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. On the other hand it gives you the chance to select the best part from the rough stock while you have full control of the final sizing of each piece of wood.
Glue the two left quadrants together, again tigthening the strap with all the pieces in place.
Slide the mirror to the edge of the support surface and tab from the bottom along the cut until it brakes free. When the mirror frame rests on the dresser it looks better this way, rather then like a balancing egg. I recommend that you cover the metal of the clamp bar were the glue joint is going to be, with for example masking tape.
The back stretchers will be flush with the back side of the legs, so that surface will be against the FMT clamp plate!
Clean out the mortise extensions such that it has the same width as the mortise on the side stretcher. Attach an extra board to the miter gage that extends well past the dado this will prevent tear out. The glue, water and acidic red oak can cause the metal of the clamp bar to leave nasty black stains on the red oak.
Next setup the FMT jig for the maximum width tenon for the 6" wide end of the front stretcher. Next fit the front stretcher tenons into the combined front leg and side stretcher mortises. Trim the finger joints from the test pieces and cut the test joint again until perfectly flush.
Finally glue the top and bottom joints together at the same time and strap together as done before. Trace the outside of the mirror frame with a pencil onto the melamine where the decorative boards will join.
Glue all pieces together using clamps to keep everything flat on the melamine and together.
Mark the vertical positions of the mortises for the drawer slide support on the inside of the legs. At this point you can dry-fit the nightstands including the slide supports, and also label the slide supports. Copy the position of the top and bottom edges of the decorative boards onto the side of the mirror frame. Note that the drawer slide supports should end up flush with the sides of the legs, so those sides of the legs should be against the FMT clamp plate! In order to slide the tenon into the vertical support from below, it might be necessary to sand off a bit from the top side of the end of the tenon.
Make sure that the finished length of the front stretchers is the same as that of the back stretchers, or in other words exactly 26"!!!
Copy the position of the mirror frame onto the side of the decorative boards all the way to the top. Place the mirror frame on top of the decorative boards, line up the markings, and trace the outside of the mirror frame onto the decorative boards with a pencil.



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nightstand woodworking plans 02



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