Replace plywood floor in shed,woodworkers supply table saw fence biesemeyer,records storage companies of america - You Shoud Know

Now it looks as though the lower portion of the drywall behind the toilet needs to be replaced.
When at Home depot buying supplies for this project I showed a guy in the paint department the pics from my original post and he said that I needed to pull the plywood subfloor and check underneath to see if the mold had spread and if it had that any affected areas would have to be removed. Also, there are alot of holes in the plywood from where the carpet tack strip was nailed down.
My plan is to get the subfloor as clean and smooth as possible and then apply some Kills mildew resistant primer.
I surely wouldn't go to the hassle and expense of pulling the floor up if it's still solid.
I dont really see any point into ripping out this subfloor if you are planing on putting another subfloor on top of it.
Plywood is lightweight, strong, cheap, easy to work with, easy to bond to Fiberglass and when correctly sealed with epoxy , with all fittings set in bedding coumpound, its very long lasting.
Location: Newberg, OR This boat also uses pedestal mounted captains chairs at the helm and co-pilot positions. Location: new york While I give you credit for wanting to do a good job, I think that you are contemplating a complex job that will be far more expensive and time consuming than is necessary. Location: Newberg, OR Perhaps one way to go would be a combination of the two.
Location: Milwaukee, WI If you were to replaced the floors and stringers the same as the originals, they would last many years. Location: new york How many boats have you seen, especially smaller boats, that are filled with flotation but have a cheap, tiny bilge pump installed in a location that makes maintenance next to impossible?
Location: Coastal Georgia The connection all around between the edge of the floor and the sides of the boat, and the transom etc are very important. Location: Eustis, FL I see no advantage using a soft, quite flexible material as the sole (like aluminum) on a boat like this. Like has already been said the floor makes the hull ridged and so it i doesn't twist !!, raking can cause all kinds of problems with cracking in the corners of the deck etc etc and things coming loose ,so a solid ply floor well glassed into the hull is really important not only for standing on but structural as well !! When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Home Improvement Stack Exchange is a question and answer site for contractors and serious DIYers. I have some existing hard wood flooring (maybe 20mm or so deep) to go over the screed and will be laying carpet in the lounge.
How close in height does the concrete and screed need to be in order to get a smooth transition?


Thank you so much for the detailed answer (and picture), really helped me out trying to decide how to tackle this issue. That is correct, the first layer are strips of plywood to act as a spacer to get the subfloor to the right height for the carpet.
Not the answer you're looking for?Browse other questions tagged flooring hardwood-floor carpet subfloor transition or ask your own question. How two install hardwood floors in a long room with a subfloor that has a plane change in the middle? Why do the cameras Canon 1Dx, Nikon D4, Nikon D5 have a different form factor than other DSLRs? How do I encourage users to supply information that might not be available, if it is available?
Why is one return conductor for each forward conductor in a ribbon cable better than a shared return conductor? The back wall of the tub area is soft, so I plan to replace all of the wall tiles and tile the floor.
I'm pretty sure that the moisture from the area by the tub was from people dripping as they exited the shower and the shower curtain being compromised. I guess I'm thinking, how much can the existing subfloor contribute to stiffening up the floor when there are all these holes and gaps?
So I bought it, and I want to not only resurrect it, but to make it better that it was when it was new. I want to make sure it's nearly impossible for them to rip out of the floor if conditions get a little rough when I have it out in the bay or going across the bar in and out of the bay. The boats that I see smashed to bits after hitting rocks etc or going aground in storm conditions aren't the steel ones !
All I know is that the whole floor is quite soft almost to the point of not being able to stand on it. Without it the boat will be very flexible, the hull will twist and shift independently of the floor. To do so successfully, you'll need a considerable amount of support under the plate, to pick up longitudinal and athwart loads.
There is treatment for rising damp in the brick around the edges below which is a little damp.
I would like to use something like Schluter Ditra to waterproof the floor and maybe some Schluter Kurdi around the edges.
I thought this to be a bit extreme but thought I would mention it just to get your opinions.


I'm wondering if I should remove the existing subfloor and then add 2 layers of plywood instead of just one layer over the existing plank subfloor.
This in my mind would greatly simplify the dilemma of trying to graft aluminum stringers and under floor structure to the hull of the boat.
They left the drainage holes there half plugged with foam so when water got into these areas over the years the water never really gets to fully drain out and the inevitable rot begins. There is a channel, 100mm wide, around two edges of the concrete floor (including the edge with the transistion) where old heating pipes are laid.
Would Chipboard be ok for the subfloor as it's much cheaper, but not as strong, especially given the trough around two edges of the room.
I've not done fiberglass work before, but I have a lot of fabrication and carpentry experience in my diverse background.
Based on other threads I have read on the subject of floor replacement, the most important thing to remember is to over-size any holes for fasteners to coat the inside of the holes with the epoxy to ensure that the plywood is completely impervious to moisture.
If you live in a freeze thaw climate it makes for other problems if your hull holds any moisture.
I don't see how you can make a connection between an aluminum floor and fiberglass hull that would work. Ring frames or extruded shapes could be used for the supports, but you'll rival the weight of plywood, with a lot more filldlyness. You are going to cover this whole thing and seal anything in there away from your living space. I'm not totally opposed to plywood and fiberglass, but either way I do want in-floor storage, live wells, as well as easy access to bilges and pumps to keep them clean and functioning well.
I could then reinforce the under side of the aluminum deck with aluminum angle or aluminum flat bar in the spots where my captains chairs are mounted. The possibility of somebody stepping in that area is nil, and to have a piece of furniture that would apply a lot of pressure there would also be slight.
It's a lot of work no matter what method I choose, and as long I can ensure I get another 30 to 40 years out of the boat, which will take me into my retirement years, then I know I did a good job. Then again, you could add a little pressure treated framing in there to support the edge too.



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replace plywood floor in shed



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