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Your slab will be 50mm thick (not including the trench around the edge) and you want it to rise 20-30mm above the level of the surrounding ground to stop water running into the shed. Important: We recommend you set anchor bolts into the edge of the concrete immediately after you pour the slab. Because this is a relatively small concrete slab, you should have time to place all the bolts after you pour the slab but before you work the surface of the concrete with your trowel.
Refer to the plan and make sure you don't place any bolts where the doorway will be or below a vertical beam. If you have got a plan to work to it will give you the position of the shed in relation to two of your boundary lines, unless you are on a huge block and it gives you a position off the house or something else. Remove the lines and the pegs and dig a shovel width trench around the marked perimeter about 100-150 deep, throwing the spoil outside. We want this thicker edge to stiffen up the slab where we will be putting in hold down bolts or other fixings. If the site has a slope, say it falls 150 from corner to corner, you may want to level the area with clean fill sand, as sand is cheaper than concrete. Nail them together in the trench and drag them into position, measuring to the fence lines and trimming the trench as needed. Get odds and ends of packers, bits of brick, cement sheet etc to hold the timber in a level position, using a 900 or 1200 long spirit level to check. What you are aiming for is to get the top of the forms 100 higher than the natural ground level at it's highest point. Another way is to get someone to hold a heavy sledge hammer against the form to keep it solid while you are nailing.
Run around the edge of the forms with a shovel and put some soil or sand down the back of them, firming it up by pressing it in with your foot, to stiffen the forms up more.
A couple of points, if the garden shed concrete slab is to be used for something a little better than a simple storage shed (I know of a few that later got turned in home offices etc.
Before the concrete is poured go around the forms and mark where the door is and the HD bolts will go.

Then when the concrete is poured ( see my other concrete pages) and just starting to firm up you push in and jiggle the bolts a touch to compact the concrete around them. At the same time that you drop in the HD bolts run an edging tool to the concrete at the doorway.
If you are building a steel shed yourself or if it is a kit, put something between the steel and the concrete to protect the steel.
Make sure that the outside cladding runs down at least 25 past the concrete edge to weather it.
This may be amusing – but the fact is many garden sheds are just placed on the ground with no anchorage to the base or simply screwed (dynabolted) to small pavers.
Does this sort of damage need to be regulated – obviously someone has to pay for the cleanup and reinstallation.
I have purchased a 6 x 6 single roller door shed that I am erecting and have to do my own slab. In addition to the above advice, you should maintain a free drip edge, this is very important otherwise you get a build-up of water at the cut edge of the steel, and rust is guaranteed!
As always there are exceptions to the rule, and some of the best shed companies and builders do in fact pour the slab after the shed is built, the techniques used to achieve that are destined for another article! Then please let us know, I am sure we can help you, we always say " If we can draw it, we can build it !
Our goal is to design and build long lasting and durable wood structures that withstand New England weather.
Our business is based on the belief that our customer's needs are of the utmost importance. We would welcome the opportunity to earn your trust and deliver you the best service in the industry. This can be quite tedious, but it is the best way to attach the frame of the shed to the floor in our opinion. In larger jobs the bolts would have to be placed first and the concrete poured around them.

For a wooden floor, lay four 2.2m lengths of treated 100mm by 75mm timber down on your flat site.
But this one seemed to like the neighbours pool and headed in after strong winds and rain recently in Perth. The above is the result and regulations don’t exist to prevent this sort of occurance happening regularly.
Some people told me it’s easier to pour the slab after the shed is built and it covers all the holes in the wall sheets. Although there are other ways to attach structures to concrete, they all have their own draw-backs and require specialised tools. You can buy special anchor bolt holders if you do choose to place the bolts before the slab is poured. The timber needs to be treated to a grade that is suitable for continuous contact with the ground (ask your supplier). Without going to the extreme of Council intervention – maybe Garden Shed Suppliers could give instruction and heavier dynabolts for installation onto a permanent concrete slab. But the shed supplier told me to pour the slab first as the steel sheeting supplier warranty would be voided as direct contact with concrete rusts the sheets. This trench will mean that the concrete around the edge of the slab, where the walls will sit, is thicker than the concrete in the center. If this advice is not followed – then simply the shed owner is responsible legally for all damage caused!

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shed concrete slab calculator

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