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ROME--where the giant airport sign doesn't say "Welcome to Fiumicino," but "Emporio Armani," and even the dude driving the courtesy cart sports Gucci eyewear.
We're staying at a resort called Masseria Torre Coccaro, just inland from the beach beetween Brindisi and Bari.
Rustici normally means "rustic," but these are quick and delicious snacks, quite sophisticated.
This is good news for Dave Lefkow and Justin Esch, the Seattle guys behind Bacon Salt (now in nine flavors) and their newest product, Baconnaise (regular and lite). Cornichon, alas, finds the product more medicinal than bacon-y, with a bitter, chemical aftertaste. Forget tearing down the viaduct, we can't even get this effing eyesore off the supposedly recreational marina on Elliott Bay. It's inconceivable that Yoshitani and his staff are unaware of the blight on the public waterfront, since the Port's offices are just north of the bow. Second, further proof that the Sceptered Isle's bureaucrats have never been entirely comfortable with the notion that people might, actually, drink to feel happier: a report by England's Office of National Statistics that the mild-mannered Brits are nonetheless drinking too much wine, especially at home.
They could start, perhaps, by taking their noses out of their citizens' private lives, whether they live in Wetwang, Crotch Crescent or Pratts Bottom.
The Raleigh-Durham market had the largest TV audience with more than 51% of households tuned in to the day's events.
With BHO's rousing assurance that America is "ready to lead once more" still fresh in the air, six drummers from Roosevelt High School's marching band, clad in cooks' whites, set out from Txori Bar on Second Avenue for a tour of Belltown.
It's a little house on the corner of 37th and Wallingford, remodeled as an informal neighborhood restaurant dubbed Cantinetta.
Behind the bar, another QCG alum, Burton Hill, assembles a fine negroni, and in the kitchen Brian Cartenuto and his crew turn out Italian staples like mussels putanesca, goat cheese agnolotti, tagliatelle with clams, and lamb spezzatino. Fate, as it happens, smiles on the incense cedar (source of pencils and much prized in our cool, dry climate), to the disadvantage of the oak, the plum, the tulip and the maple. The curbside plums, immersed in the blue clay that underlies Belltown's concrete, create their own problems, what with leaves and trash that accumulate in the tree pits, not to mention the muddy barrier to they create for people getting in and out of parked cars. As far as Belltown is concerned, SDOT "is looking at this as a maintenance project and not an urban liveablity project, including trees and landscaping," said one neighbor.
Executive chef Thomas Kolasch had the unenviable task of providing everything from hotel breakfasts to business lunches to banquets, leading to a "jeans one day, tux the next" menu. At that price, you can't expect haute cuisine, or even the sort of fake ambition that comes from a soulless restaurant supply company (think of all those stuffed chicken breasts you've seen on tavern menus; you know they're delivered pre-cooked and flash-frozen). It's doubtful that the residents of low-lying property around Seattle would see things as romantically.
Upstairs, there's a comfy B&B with seven rooms should you decide that the river's rising too fast to make it back to town. The best music in George Bizet's early opera, The Pearl Fishers, comes barely 10 minutes after the curtain rises; it's a justly celebrated duet between childhood buddies Nadir and Zurga.
Well, it's a French opera, so sophisticated (or even credible) plotting isn't as important as an exotic locale (Ceylon) and the occasional ballet (principal dancers Bobby Briscoe doing his best leaping lizard moves, Lisa Gillespie writhing like a snake charmer to superfluously frantic choreography).
Pearl Fishers was sung in French, and the credits included a French diction coach to help the singers navigate the shoals of pronunciation, though stumbles were inevitable. Now, almost five years later, Buckley is back in his old nabe, presiding over an eclectic mix of locals in search of cheer.
There's room for 50 or so on the patio once the weather turns better, and another 50 in two private dining rooms, plus 150 in the bar and dining room, suddenly making the newcomer the biggest living room in Belltown. Berry calls for a 50-year farm bill to reduce our dependency on soil-destroying industrial agriculture, arguing that money alone cannot continue to feed us. Only two other Seattle chefs, Tom Douglas and Tamara Murphy, have been invited to compete at Kitchen Stadium in the seven seasons that "Iron Chef America" has been on the Food Network. Tinsley's not nearly as high profile, not yet; she's known mostly for her exquisite handmade gnocchi.
Mario Batali, no slouch himself when it comes to promoting Italian food, shot a segment of his TV show at the original La Spiga. Unlike reality shows like Bravo's "Next Top Chef" elimination, Iron Chef is a one-time battle, win or lose. How'd this place become so popular, one wonders, when the far more authentic Via Tribunali is just up the street?
We order up four or five large-size, with assorted toppings, and head for a family reunion. On plus side, Hot Mama's isn't unduly greasy (relative lack of cheese), and family doggies appear genuinely grateful for bites of cold, dull crust. Real Absinthe -- Thujone AbsintheAbsinthe Original offers a large selection of real absinthe varieties, also called the Green Fairy, containing varying amounts of thujone, derived from wormwood.
Small Screen Network, where food & drink celebrities like Robert Hess have recorded terrific videos.
The oldest and most comprehensive blog about Paris, BonjourParis, produced by a stellar team of writers and editors (including occasional contributions from Cornichon). Maribeth Celemente's blog, Bonjour Telluride, with regular updates to her shopping guides, The Riches of France and The Riches of Paris. Nat Decants, a free wine e-newsletter from Natalie MacLean, recently named the World's Best Drink Writer at the World Food Media Awards in Australia. Without moving from your table you can experience virtually unlimited dishes until your stomach fails you and it's time to lumber home. Find out how to carve wood gradually with a razor blade with help from a woodworker and antique restorer in this free video on carving wood. The passengers are wrapped in silk scarves knotted casually at the throat with carefully studied elegance.


Last night, a buffet to introduce our international delegation (press, tour operators, wine buyers attending a conference called Puglia Wine & Land) to the foods of Apulia. The phyllo dough comes from the proximity to Greece, just across the Adriatic Sea from this flat, fertile region.
Jimmy Dean lives in half of all home refrigerators; rashers of Swift are consumed in astounding quantities, and never more than in these tough times. They launched their patented chemical concoction in August of 2007, quickly got national distribution and, of couse, started an official blog. First up, an article in the NYTimes about ha-ha smutty British place names, from towns called Crapstone and Penistone and Titty Ho to streets named Butt Hole Road. Another British outfit, the New Economics Foundation, reports that Brits are--compared to their neighbors in Denmark, Germany and France--bored but happy. Seattle-Tacoma had the lowest viewership, with only 18.8% of households watching the events. Not to scare off the crackheads, but because, by coincidence, January 20th is also the date of the Fiesta da Donostia. Our Brussels sprouts with duck confit was a study in contrasts: on their own, the sprouts were undercooked, but with the addition of the confit they tasted like a coleslaw with duck-fat dressing. The beverage list has Italian wines on one side, Washington (Cayuse, Andrew Will and and Leonetti among them) on the other. We're facing a traditional American breakfast: eggs over easy, bacon, hash browns, toasted muffin.
Kids may play hopscotch on the sidewalks of Madrona or Wedgewood, but not in Belltown, where the sidewalks, for better or worse, have become a full-scale laboratory for transportation engineers and urban planners. The current budget, the current project, is to repave Fourth northbound and Second southbound, from downtown to Denny. Especially the maple, which grows and grows and grows until it's over three feet across and essentially stops pedestrian traffic. Environmental watchdog and green architect Carolyn Geiss was not optimistic either about SDOT's involvement in neighborhood issues like streetscapes, urban landscaping, parking or community centers.
Many items were stunningly delicious like the red royal prawns and the sorbet intermezzo (photo), others not so much, but it was the pricing (high $20s, up to $35 for the rib-eye) that didn't work. Stan Kott, the GM, says it will "rebrand" its amenities and services from high-end four-diamond to a less luxurious three-diamond level, and affiliate with a national franchise. That ownership, which is based in Spokane and for whom the Arctic Club was the only luxury property, is probably more comfortable in the mid-range at any rate.
No delicate brook, that swollen Raging River, coursing wildly from Preston down to the Snoqualmie.
Nadir is sung by William Burden, who impressed local audiences last season in Iphigenia; he's a tenor, so you know he's going to get the girl, while Christopher Feigum, a baritone, sings Zurga, and you know he's going go through some soul-searching before he Does The Right Thing, in this case burning down the village that's just elected him chief so that his BFF and the girl (a fallen priestess) can make their getaway. The real pearl fishers, you may recall from the famous photos, are women on the Japanese island of Hekura.
Belltown sidewalks are empty except for a clutch of furtive smokers and cellphones conspirators at corner of Second and Battery.
Some of his crew was lured to Firefly atop Queen Anne (later Lumette, now Sorrentino), but he and his loyal cohort went no further than the former Duke's on 1st West, where they founded a sturdy neighborhood pub called, duh, Buckley's. In the 1930s, this was Seattle's Film Row, where studios screened upcoming movies for theater managers, distributed posters, collected reels of film. The question is what it bodes for places as disparate as Rob Roy (formerly Viceroy) directly across the street, Del Rey around the corner, Tavolata next door or La Vita è Bella in the next block.
Not just steering people to good restaurants and away from bad ones, but highlighting issues related to food, wine, travel. An Alaska native who attended Michigan State, she was studying (and cooking) in Salzburg when she met her future husband, Pietro Borghesi. Must have something to do with Seattle's pizza culture: a need for predictable and cheap to ingest when you've been drinking. You can't help but smile when you see these bright primary colors and fresh vintage inspired patterns! Whether you are sailing the seven seas or enjoying a day at the seashore you are sure to love the vintage colors and adorable illustrations in the nautical themed collection! But most mozzarella is nothing more than plastic; it's more like Velveeta than genuine cheese. These concoctions, about the size of a donut, are served at room temperature only here, in the province of Lecce, the southeastern tip of the Italian boot.
Bacon consumption is up, over the past ten years, by a pound per person (to 17.9 pounds for every man, woman and child in the country).
Aside form the time lag (get out of bed, sleepy-head!), we think Seattle's Obamaniacs were more inclined to watch in public places, sharing the experience with friends.
Half a world away, the town of San Sebastian, built on lowlands leading to the Bay of Biscay, celebrates its delivery from a French military siege with round-the-clock drumming, and chef Joseba Jimenez de Jimenez, a San Sebastian native, feels the tug of geography.
That's the inimitable Paolo Conte, an immensely popular performer from Piedmont whose style suggests the thick blue smoke of a crowded nightclub.
If your taste runs to fancy Barolos and Brunellos, there's a nice selection of bottles over $100, but for everyday, the vino della casa at $5.50 a glass will do very nicely, grazie. Art projects, sidewalk cafés, bus shelters, bike racks, newspaper vending machines, garbage cans and trees of various ages and diverse species populate the right-of-way, buckling the four-inch concrete and turning the simple business of walking down the block into a hazardous obstacle course.
Now, having written the specs, SDOT's engineers are belatedly soliciting public input for sidewalk improvements, and it fell to SDOT's Liz Ellis and a couple of her colleagues to meet over the weekend with half a dozen residents who turned out to discuss, specifically, the fate of trees along Second. Were it a bicycle or a fat, somnambulant drunk, we could request it move along, please, and stop blocking the sidewalk.
Whether they'll keep the talented Kolasch to run the "repositioned" restaurant isn't as clear. No, he's not doing it as well as a "commercial" restaurant, even a neighborhood spot with kitchen big enough for three or four cooks. The downside is that side dishes do double and triple duty, even if the seasoning isn't exactly right. No brook, either, in the southern part of the county, where the Corps unleashed the furious White from Mud Mountain Dam on the unsuspecting town of Pacific 25 miles downriver.
Cameon Orel was hired as both chef and GM of the rechristened Fall City Roadhouse; she welcomes guests and runs the kitchen with equal aplomb.
In this production (from Philadelphia), it seems to be the bare-chested guys who do the dangerous swimming. Much of the time, the principals kneel or recline on the scenery like the deity on a bottle of White Rock soda and sing themselves to sleep.


Inside, as Florida battles Oklahoma on wall-to-wall flat screens, Tim Buckley is celebrating his comeback.
The kitchen (many Queen Anne staffers pulling extra shifts) executes a menu they've got down pat: meatloaf sliders, chicken salad, burgers, reubens, all topping out at $9. Black Bottle, three blocks away, has all the traffic it can handle, and its prices have crept into the double digits. Benefits include decent meals (much of the time), work-from-home environment while listening to preferred genre of music (usually classical), occasional travel to popular destinations. Case in point: today's New York Times Op-Ed by farmer and essayist Wendell Berry, who argues that the real energy crisis won't be running out of non-renewable petroleum but non-renewable soil.
For the next five years the couple lived in Italy, where Tinsley absorbed the culinary culture and the two ran a piadina shop.
Tribunali's a sit-down dinner place with wine and all; Hot Mama's a hole-in-the-wall with few pretensions.
This versatile scrapbooking kit is perfect for boys and girls and the updated vintage feel and fun elements are sure to add a playful touch to your scrapbook pages and projects!
A pinch of regular mozzarella (ideally, made from buffalo milk, kneaded and pulled) is filled with a dollop of fresh cream (sometimes with chives added), squeezed tight, and served at room temperature, on its own or with tangy local tomatoes. We had them mid-morning at a tasting at Apollonio, a family estate specializing in red wines from local primitivo and negroamaro grapes.
It (or she, or whatever you call a container ship named Kauai) has been sitting there since October. Nobody cares what the upper and the lower classes drink, it seems, but God forbid that a "middle class" householder should exceed what some bureaucrat thinks is proper.
Then, while all those East Coasters were making with happy feet at the inaugural balls, we had different celebrations in Seattle. His best-known number, Vieni Via Con Me (roughly: "Run Away With Me"), is full of sprung rhythms, suggesting the rocky road of an illicit romance (It's wonderful, good luck my baby, chips, chips!) Conte isn't nearly as popular in this country as he should be. We've already had our espresso, now it's time for a serious Mary, garnished with pickle, pepper, olive and lemon slice, accompanied by shot of Pete's Wicked Ale. Liz Ellis is also no fan of maples planted on street corners (where they interfere with drivers' sight-lines); she thinks we need to suck it up and cut them down. All carefully monitored, carefully pruned, each one embedded with a computer chip connected to a central computer. And, truth be told, I'd have preferred a little less nutmeg in the noodles served with both the chicken and the fish. Torrents and tumult everywhere, the suburban, farmland flip side to Seattle's wet and snowy Christmas.
Her philosophy is "farm to table," a concept that's well-received by nearby Full Circle Farm and River Valley Ranch, among many others. On the podium, Gerard Schwartz does his best to propel the music and the action forward, but stage director Kay Walker Castaldo (a Philly holdover) doesn't do much to showcase the drama, what little there is. For those who venture into the realm of full-fledged pub-food dinners, there's chicken, ribs, meatloaf, pasta, even tiger prawn scampi on a bed of linguini for $17, and a sirloin steak with bleu cheese for $20.
Dinner for ten bucks is a tough, tough business, and right now Buckley's is the only game in Belltown.
The ideal jobs expect you to dress reasonably well, let you work close to home and take regular showers.
Acknowledged drawbacks: irregular hours, irregular digestion (when meals less-than-decent), irregular paychecks. They eventually moved to Seattle, where Tinsley's sister had settled and, ten years ago, opened the original Osteria La Spiga in a tiny space on Capitol Hill at Broadway and Union.
So, this past June, off she and Pietro went to New York along with two of her sous-chefs to prepare for the smackdown in Kitchen Stadium. Then, the next four Tuesdays in January, there will be parties in the restaurant's private loft for four-course meals ($125 per person) based on Tinsley's Iron Chef creations. Well, Alitalia was shotgunned into a merger with its regional rival Air One two weeks ago, and sold 25 percent of itself to Air France last week, so it's a bit early to say much, other than no inflight magazine, no cocktails, and very few passengers. The cheese is so fresh and buttery (burrata literally means buttered), it's best when eaten within the day. A Port spokesman told a reporter in December that it didn't have space anywhere except the cruise ship terminal. Diner and expect a waterfront view of the Olympics across Elliott Bay, you're flat out of luck.
Take a look at the YouTube video of his melancholy Gelato al Limon, set to images by Edward Hopper. Maintenance of the city's infrastructure (concrete, cobblestone, green) is a civic responsibility, not an afterthought. Orel's tasty meatloaf ($14) includes housemade pork sausage as well as beef; she could forage the beet and goat cheese salad ($8) on a short walk. Turns out this is suddenly a very popular opera, with stagings in the past couple of seasons in San Francisco, San Diego, Denver, Detroit, Chicago, Montreal, and Washington, DC, in addition to the Philadephia set and costumes picked up by Seattle. The theatrical highlight, a fight at the end of Act II, gives way to an almost comic, writhing group-grope in Act III.
It's probably the only spot in Belltown where you can hear someone order a rum & coke and a PBR without being laughed at. But cruise ships don't linger, don't sleep on the couch and don't leave their dirty laundry lying around. SDOT could take a lesson in public policy from the City of Light, where beautification isn't left to engineers but is considered one of the primary obligations of elected officials. All this fuss over a one-tune wonder by Bizet, 24 years old at the time, composed 12 years before his masterpiece, Carmen. The new La Spiga has drawn its share of hostile reviews, but credit is always given to Tinsley for her sure sense of Italy's cultural and culinary traditions.
The judges: restaurateur Joe Bastianich (Mario's business partner), TV personality Jenna Wolfe, and food critic Jeffrey Steingarten.
The price and promise of breakfast, of hope and virtue, a meal both real and serious, the cheerful and joyous beginning of a new day.



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