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Grab your glue bottle and some clamps to fasten the spacers to the interior surfaces of the inside column sides. For smooth movement, it’s also important to clean up any glue residue that squeezes out on the inside of the channels.
A quick look at the plans shows how the foot segments and support arms are made by laminating two layers of 1″-thick material to form solid blanks.
When all this work is done, apply an even coat of glue to the blanks and clamp the parts together in pairs. When the blanks are dry, lay out decorative tapers and rounded corners at the locations shown in the plans. Round clamp knobs with threaded inserts lock the support arm assemblies in place when adjusting the tabletop’s height.
After marking the insert locations, remove the extension arms and prepare for installation of the insert parts. Now, for the tricky part: marking the corresponding hole positions on the bottom of the tabletop. Before positioning the tabletop on the support arms to mark drilling locations, make sure the legs are square to the support rib. I applied a coat of red mahogany gel stain, followed by four coats of wipe-on polyurethane.
Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. Ensure that the two sides are mirror images of each other, with the back panel grooves located on the inside faces of the rear stiles. After the entire cabinet is dry, you’ll need to reinforce the joints between the bottom panel and the sides. The base is built to cradle the bottom of the cabinet on three sides, supporting the back of the cabinet completely on a solid strip. Begin by cutting the base front piece and two base side pieces to size according to the materials list. Apply a thin layer of glue on the front of the edging at the front of the cabinet, then slide the base in place and clamp it flush at the front and back. The doors have a simple half-lap design and feature square pegs to help lock everything together. The mullions interlock with more half-lap joints, but these ones are a little more finicky to cut because they’re small.
For a simple, attractive finish, I chose three coats of Minwax tung oil applied over as many days.
Attach the partitions to the bottom of the topper, and to the side and end trim pieces as shown above.
To get the best fit, you will measure and precisely cut out each of the boards H to fit the table. Screw into the legs and also screw from the inside of B, the leg joiner, into the end edge of D. Now place the board in the center of the table, as shown in step 8, and screw inplace from the top.
As you can see from the plans, the lower sections of the legs are made of wide columns attached to long foot segments with mortise-and-tenon joints. Before the glue has set, make sure the spacers are flush with the outside edges along their entire length. After the clamps are removed, install a dado blade in your tablesaw to notch out the rear edges of the columns. Glue and clamp the column tenons in place with 2″-long tongues protruding from the bottoms of the channel slots. I designed them this way so the tablesaw could be used to notch out the mortises that will house the column tenons and extension arms. Make the necessary cuts to shape the parts, then sand the edges to clean up the tool marks left behind by the saw blade. The knobs tighten into flanged, threaded inserts installed in the inward faces of the extension arms.
Use these holes as guides to mark locations for the threaded inserts in the column spacers.
After rejointing the edge of the remaining material, repeat the entire process to create more strips.
Cut the rib to size, then form a 11?2″-radius decorative curve on both ends with the bandsaw or a jigsaw.


This setup makes it easy to remove the tabletop when you’re on the move or want to adjust its height.
I sanded with 400-grit paper between coats of polyurethane to achieve a silky smooth finish. Create dimples on the extension arms with the tip of a drill bit to mark the locations of the flanged, threaded inserts. If you print out or save our plans, be sure to check back before starting your build, to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans.
Once the glue is dry, level the solid-wood edging with neighbouring plywood using some sandpaper around a sanding block or a sharp hand plane. To start, cut four stiles and four rails, then install a 1″-wide dado blade in your tablesaw. Cut mullion pieces to length, then lay them out on your bench and mark locations for the joints. Once the finish is fully cured, rub the entire cabinet with #0000 steel wool, then apply two coats of paste wax buffed to a subtle sheen. Use 2? screws and glue unless you have a Kreg Jig™ and you can fasten the end trim from the insides. Fasten the trim to the legs to for extra support on the shelves from the outside of the leg or use a Kreg Jig™. Fasten the outer side aprons to the sides, as shown above, keeping top and bottom edges flush.
These are mostly decorative, so don’t stress about getting them super screwed in place. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Flip the table over and screw through the supports, F, into the bottom of the tabletop pieces, H. The interior of the columns are hollow to form channels for the extension arms that allow the tabletop to be raised and lowered. If these parts are misaligned, the width of the channel won’t be uniform from top to bottom, which could cause the extension arms to bind as they move. These notches are for the ends of the horizontal cross brace that will stretch between the leg assemblies. This step should provide just enough clearance to prevent binding in the channels and allow for the finish that will be applied later on. The tablesaw method is much easier and quicker than traditional mortising techniques involving time-consuming work with hand chisels. Before you work on the blanks, make test-cuts on scrap and clamp together the two halves to check the fit with the corresponding tongues. Remove the cross brace, then drill the holes for the flanges and the pilot holes for the threads, just like before.
I like using laminate for the surface of utility tables because it’s durable and easy to clean up. The rib runs along the length of the tabletop, 6″ from the rear to keep it well out of the way of knees and chair arms. The most accurate way is to use dowel centres—metal plugs manufactured to fit in the holes for most standard dowel sizes; they have sharp points in the centre that make an impression on mating parts brought together overtop of them. If you round the ends of the pins with sandpaper, it will make it easier to slip the dowels into the corresponding holes in the tabletop. Don’t forget to tape off the edges of the laminate before you start, as stain is difficult to remove. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. With a sacrificial backer board to reduce tearout, cut the first half of each tenon in two passes. Test-fit the parts, and once satisfied with the fit, it’s time to drill holes for the shelf supports. With a small brush or stick, spread the glue inside the grooves so it’s on all three surfaces, then insert the rails into one stile, slide the panels in, then attach the other stile.
I prepared these by tilting the blade on my tablesaw and using a mitre gauge to support the wood. Next, apply a thin layer of glue to the mitre faces and spline grooves on the base sides as well as on the ends of the base rear piece.
The grooves should prevent most squeeze-out, but any that does occur can be removed easily from the glass with a razor blade after it has fully cured. It is wise to mark all the joints on the undersides of the tabletop boards before fastening. Cantilevered support arms cap the top of the extension arms are that the removable tabletop rests on.
This is an example in which following the steps in the proper order is critical; it would be impossible to complete this task on the tablesaw if the outer column side was attached first. Before the glue dries, wrap a rag around the end of a stick to wipe up any residue from the interior. It’s also important that the extension arms be slightly thinner than the column tenons to create sliding clearance. The easiest way to create these notches is to nibble away at the waste material by making repeated passes over a dado blade. Don’t drill too deeply right now—a slight dimple is all that is required to mark the spots.


The edges of the tabletop are wrapped with solid-wood trim, and a support rib is mounted on the bottom to make the plywood more rigid. Apply the contact cement to both surfaces and let it dry completely before pressing the laminate into place.
Cut the trim to length with 45° mitred ends and glue the edging to the perimeter of the tabletop.
You can purchase an entire set of dowel centres for just a few bucks at most tool retailers. I also recommend sanding the sides of the dowel pins to achieve a more relaxed fit, which also makes it easier to remove the tabletop when you want to adjust the height or dismantle the workstation. After the last coat of polyurethane has cured for about a week, buff the extension arms with a little paste wax to make them glide smoothly in the column channels.
Attach the front top rail permanently with a couple of pocket-hole screws per side, orienting the rail so the pocket holes are on the top face. While you’re at it, make plenty of extra mullion stock in case some break during the next step. You’ll get perfect squares every time–just make sure you remove the auger bit from the centre of the mortiser chisel first.
Place the glass into the rabbets in the door frames, and hold each piece in with glazing strips. You’ll need to lower the tablesaw blade a smidgen when creating the notches on the support arms. When the dust has settled, dry-fit the connecting parts one last time to make sure there are no problems that need to be sorted out before final assembly. The only limitation is that at least 8″ of the extension arms must remain in the column channels to support the tabletop adequately. Twist the inserts into place using a hex key and try locking the extension rails into position.
Use a roller or the palm of your hand to make sure a uniform bond is achieved over the entire surface. When you drill the pilot holes for the screws, you will also need to countersink the heads by 1″. You will recall that we intentionally sized the cross brace to achieve a tight fit in the column side’s pockets.
Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages.
Smooth this edge with either a hand plane or some 150-grit sandpaper wrapped around a sanding block. If all is well, apply glue to the walls of the mortise openings and slip the column tenons and extension arms into place. Now, grab your router and install a bearing-guided, flush-trim bit to trim off the excess laminate from the edges. Now that the finish is applied, you may find that the cross brace is too snug and will no longer engage in the openings. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. I then clamped the template centred on the stiles and marked each hole with a centre punch to keep the bit from wandering when I start drilling. Put glue in the grooves and on the two ends of the plywood base and insert the plywood back panel into the bottom groove.
Apply glue, and position so it is flush with the top surface of the ply and overlaps the front edges of the sides completely. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion.
This problem is easily solved by using a sharp chisel to pare off a thin layer of finish from the ends on the inside face. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using. Mill full-length grooves on the inside edges of the stiles, then, without changing your machine set-up, lay the rear stiles, inside face down, and mill another full-length groove on the inside rear face of the rear stiles to accept the back panel. Once all hole locations are marked, attach a temporary fence to your drillpress table and bore all shelf-support holes. Next, slide the side assemblies over the edges of the back panel, keeping the bottom of the sides flush with the bottom of the plywood.
Don’t be concerned if you expose bare wood, because the ends will be concealed in the column notches.
Install the front rail and clamp everything together, check for square, then allow the glue to dry. As one reader mentioned, examining your boards and facing the board so the bark side is up will help prevent cupping in the future, and also create better water drainage. All that remains is to reattach the leg assemblies and tabletop so you can put this resourceful workstation to good use.



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