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Governor Cuomo has unveiled a stepped-up marketing program including a variety of “Taste NY” point of sale pieces (see page 111 for more details).
I don’t believe that this is just another fringe effort managed by some distant bureaucrat. A tip off: the last time I spoke with the Governor I came armed with photos we had run of retailer participation in the program. According to the local Daily Herald, in response to a fatal crash and a fight on a local street this summer, the Naperville city council has adopted new regulations for on-premise licensees to protect the community. There’s more: One hour before closing time, bars will not be able to admit new patrons or serve shots. To be fair, there was also a requirement for more server training, but I didn’t see any initiatives that address “responsible drinking” on the customers’ part. The holiday season is many things to many people, gift-giving is one thing that seems to connect and motivate us all. Also in this issue, our wine articles dig into Europe (Austria, France, Portugal, Spain), while here in the states we cover the trend of sommeliers following their calling into the vineyard to make their own wines.
One rarely hears of car salesman leaving the lot and going off to design and make their own cars, but it’s becoming increasingly common for sommeliers to make their own wine. While Wilson may not be out in Santa Barbara picking grapes, his input and direction keep his stamp on the project. Wilson and Railsback were actually following in the footsteps of Rajat Parr—which is only appropriate, seeing as they met when working together in San Francisco at RN74, one of the gems Parr oversees as wine director for the Michael Mina restaurant group.
Jordan Salcito, wine director for the Momofuku Group, has gone further afield, making her Bellus wine in Tuscany after working several vintages in Burgundy. Currently Charlie Bird’s sommelier list includes Italian wines from Rajat Parr, California wines from Eric Railsback and a Bordeaux from Richard Betts.
On a check list of what features define a quality wine region, Roussillon is an embarrassment of riches. The Roussillon’s specialty is blends, and across the 17 appellations (14 AOC and 3 IGP) there are 23 grape varieties. Carignan is another regional star, a favorite of many American sommeliers:  “I love its freshness and mineral, schist flavors,” says Michael Madrigale, head sommelier at NYC’s Bar Boulud, who consistently has a good half-dozen Roussillon wines on his list. Roussillon’s unforgiving soils and low rainfall drastically restrict yields making its vineyards the lowest-yielding in all of France—less than half of what most French vineyards put out.
A growing number of outsiders have been lured by Roussillon’s unique terroir and old vines—many Grenache and Carignan vineyards date over a century.
On September 10th, Frederick Wildman & Sons presented their Annual Fall Portfolio Tasting at Guastavino’s. Panama’s notoriety last century was dominated by the ambitious canal (opened in 1914) that connects the Atlantic and Pacific oceans.
Founded in 1908 by Don Jose Varela Blanco, a young Spanish immigrant, Varela Hermanos S.A remains a family endeavor with Luis J. The real hallmark of Varela Hermanos and Ron Abuelo, however, is expertise as producers of fine, aged rums.
Where other rum brands might culminate their collection in an anejo (literally “old”), this is where the Ron Abuelo line begins. Abuelo also produces two age-statement rums: Ron Abuelo Anejo 7 Years and Ron Abuelo Anejo 12 Years.
In contrast to other elite aged spirits, Varela believes aged rum holds special appeal for its versatility—able to comfortably go places that other aged spirits traditionally do not. While the liquid is firmly rooted in tradition, Ron Abuelo is using means to spread word about their rums. Having launched Citronge Orange liqueur in 1992 to complement margaritas, Patron is now extending the line into lime. A bubbly dubbed Fizz is joining Kim Crawford’s Small Parcels tier, adding a sparkling option for fans of New Zealand.
In adding “The Waymaker” Paso Robles red blend to its Regional Estates tier, Beringer Vineyards casts a stylish hat into the still-expanding red blend ring. The latest wine from Diageo Chateau & Estates Wines features a bold point of distinction. Crane Lake Cellars, the fast-growing wine brand with more than a dozen varietals, has kicked off a new promotional campaign, “Every Penny to the Grape.” Supported with POS tools, the campaign features pencil drawings and clever, conversational language stressing the value of investing in vineyards rather than things like fountains and fancy tasting rooms. Celebrating a 190-year heritage of blending award-winning bitters and rums, the House of Angostura is expanding their portfolio with a signature Amaro. With its first two flavor extensions, Mango Mango and Mexican Lime, Brown-Forman’s El Jimador is pushing tequila into a brave new world. Phillips Distilling Company’s UV brand is breaking new ground again in the flavored vodka category with UV Salty Caramel Apple, made with all-natural flavors. With bubbly rebounding, Carriage House Imports has extended their popular Verdi Sparkletini line, adding Strawberry.


The Scottish Knockdhu Distillery, known for the fertile turf on which it was built, is embracing its peaty identity; anCnoc (pronounced a-NOCK), a single malt produced by the distillery, is releasing a Limited Edition Peaty Collection.
This is the infamous time of year when evaluating every aspect of your program should be your primary concern. I personally find myself on occasion at odds with the hospitality business… the long hours, the holidays working, the weekends. Time away from work is not often easy to maneuver for many in the business, so the intensity of the time spent together must trump the volume.
With the little time busy professionals have to ourselves, we tend to be creatures of habit when it comes to down time. He also helped to recently orchestrate sold-out participation for New York wines and spirits at the NYSLSA Rochester show. He listened courteously, but when I turned to leave he stopped me, and specifically asked for the copies I had shown him.
We know that ordering and stocking and displaying gift-worthy items every year can be a challenge. In 2005 Master Sommelier Greg Harrington left his position running the beverage program at the BR Guest Restaurant Group and moved to Walla Walla, Washington. Master Sommelier Dustin Wilson is busy running the beverage program at New York’s Eleven Madison Park, but finds the time to contribute to Vallin, a Santa Barbara-based project he concocted together with Eric Railsback  and Brian McLintock (Les Marchands Wine Bar & Merchant) and boutique winemaker Justin Willett (Tyler and Lieu Dit labels).
Parr began making wine to articulate a philosophy and make a point about wine styles; Sandhi, his Santa Barbara winery, focuses on moderate alcohol, food-friendly wines. She had been pondering whether so-called “accessible” wine had to be “synonymous with a mass-produced product masquerading as something artisanal.”  After friend in the finance industry purchased a winery in Montalcino, that first harvest his head winemaker fell ill and ended up in the hospital.
For him the restaurant background helps create “wines that don’t need to be an experience on their own,” more food-friendly and perhaps lower in oak and alcohol. Charlie Bird in Manhattan has taken on so many of their friends’ wines that they’ve made a special section for them, “Shameless Plugs.” “It was tongue in cheek,” says Wine Director Grant Reynolds. The latter has made wine from several parts of the world, and even went and made mezcal for a while with the Sombra brand.
Hemmed in by the Mediterranean and three mountain ranges, including the Pyrenees, the Roussillon has 320 days of sunlight every year, and a mild climate with low rainfall and lots of mildew-repellant winds. Wedged between Southern Rhone and Spain, Roussillon is Grenache territory, yet the grape’s expression here hews an appealing middle-ground between the styles of its neighbors. Close to 70% of the vines here are AOC-classified, and are farmed by families (around 2,500 of them). Abe Schoener of California’s cultish Scholium Project launched his tiny Clos Thales project near Maury, with neglected 70-year old vines. He is also seeing a lot of younger Roussillon natives who have made wine elsewhere choosing to come home, and bring new technology and know-how with them.
Members of the trade were able to sample wines and spirits from Frederick Wildman’s global portfolio, including selections from Italy, France, Greece, Argentina, Washington State, California, New York and more.
Today the nation is drawing attention for other reasons, among them Ron Abuelo, an aged rum whose roots date back to the decade when the canal was still being built—and which is highly regarded in its homeland of Panama. A Facebook campaign invites fans to submit their “Wise Comments” on different topics, for instance.
It’s a natural move: Mexico is the world’s largest exporter of the fruit, and as an ingredient lime works in a wide range of cocktails. Comprised of 40% Chardonnay and 60% Pinot Noir, Fizz boasts aromas of citrus, apple and white peach, plus mineral notes.
Full-bodied and juicy, the inaugural 2012 is 57% Syrah and 37% Cabernet Sauvignon with touches of Petite Sirah and Malbec.
The brand Woodwork celebrates the craft of winemaking, with a refreshing dose of authenticity. The two expressions are inspired by the fruit trees on the grounds of the Casa Herradura distillery. Perfect for fall, it joins the brand’s portfolio of 20+ fun expressions, but this is the first limited-time seasonal offering—once it’s gone, it’s gone. The light, refreshing spumante with natural fruit flavor makes an exceptional value as well as a great impulse item to stock in the cold box. The first two expressions—Rutter and Flaughter, named after traditional peat-cutting tools—are both dark, bold and smoky and feature their peat phenolic levels on the bottle.
The latest, Garnet Vineyards 2013 Monterey Chardonnay, is made from premier vineyards, carefully nurtured from vine to bottle by winemaker Alison Crowe to be a true reflection of its cool-climate origin.
When you have successfully carved out time to be with your family, turn off your phone, shut the tablet; in short, be in the moment.
Children tend to make assumptions; inviting them into this amazing world in which we live and work is a great way to make sure they do not follow in our footsteps!
Two ways to attack this one: Go where you receive the red carpet, or find a place no one knows your name.


Through the Sales, Service and Buying Seminar Series, American Sommelier provides professionals with the tools needed to build and maintain a successful wine program in any restaurant environment. Rich fruit leads the entry, followed by American oak’s distinguished spice and vanilla notes. Thousands of members of the trade were in attendance to sample wines and spirits from over 150 suppliers. Our annual Holiday Gift Guide can help you make decisions for ordering, stocking and displaying eye-catching products.
We hope this article puts you in the right frame of mind to be able to recommend that perfect bottle that will pay off in happy customers and extra sales in the weeks ahead. We give direction, and expose Justin to the Syrah-based wines we’re interested in, explore some of the techniques used in the Rhone. It’s a rugged and wild place, dominated by heights that can be difficult to traverse, and a huge range of soil types, which means that there is not really one “Roussillon terroir,” says Eric Aracil, export manager for Roussillon, but a collection of micro-terroirs. Roussillon is one of the “only places in France where in such a small place you have four geological types with schist, gneiss, clay and, in higher elevations, granite,” says Chapoutier, who started buying up land in Banyuls over a decade ago, and farms biodynamically.
To encompass and encourage innovation, the wine board recently ramped up promotional efforts for two IGP categories, Cotes Catalanes and Cotes Vermeille.
And Ron Abuelo’s current call-to-action message, “Enjoy the Experience,” presents a compelling invitation to spirits lovers to seek out these prestigious and respectful aged rums from Panama. In fact, the new expression was inspired by bartender demand, and with the recent price volatility of limes, Patron Citronge Lime should be especially welcome. The wine playfully honors Felicity Nelson, Kim Crawford’s vivacious winery host who goes by the nickname of “Fizz.” Currently in AL, AZ, CA, CO, FL, IL, MA, NV, NY, TN, VA. Woodwork states up front that the three varietal wines (2012 Cabernet Sauvignon, 2013 Pinot Noir, 2013 Chardonnay) were not aged in barrel, but rather used oak staves to bring the influence of wood. The deep amber liquid offers aromas of cinnamon, dark chocolate and (of course) Angostura bitters, then explodes on the tongue with cinnamon and licorice notes. Garnet Vineyards is marketed nationally by Bronco Wine company, which is celebrating its 40th anniversary this year. Owners, I hope you are listening: Mid- and upper-level management who have balance in their home life bring a greater amount of energy and focus to their position at the restaurant. Weekly excursions to the area of your workplace might be arranged, yielding 10–20 minutes of quality time with your child and their caregiver.
In order to fully appreciate time together, you may want to alternate between the two types of places.
Taking a little energy from what we put into work and applying that to our relationships will make them stronger, make them last longer and make us feel more complete when in the work environment. Member benefits include events, career guidance, discounts and the American Sommelier newsletter. Someday you may want a favor in return… tell me again, how do you spell gross… sorry, grocery store?
His D66 label is crafted from 60-plus year old Grenache vines, and is black, minerally, and ultra-rich—“a new expression of the terroir,” says Aracil.
That sugarcane background is something that remains important to what we do today,” explains Varela, noting that all Ron Abuelo rums utilize fresh sugar cane juice in addition to the more popular molasses. A typical barrel can lose 8-10% of its liquid annually due to evaporation, according to Varela. Limited distribution (CA, FL, GA, IL, MD, OR, TN, TX, WA) began July 24th (National Tequila Day). Strawberry joins the original Verdi Sparkletini, as well as flavors Peach, Green Apple, Raspberry and Acai. It gets easier once we see and feel the positive response from the children or significant other! A familiar destination can be energizing, with people stopping by the table, talking shop or not.
I really believe it, so much so, in fact, that I make all employees read Danny Meyer’s Setting the Table.” He also routinely hires somms to work the harvest. It’s a story that has already played out in markets like Spain, historically a white rum market, where consumers have come to embrace aged rum. On the other hand, it is well worth the effort to make an anonymous retreat, to be able to walk into a place and only have to focus on your significant other.
Be prepared for tears in the beginning but as the routine is established, the tears tend to subside, leaving a welcome routine in its place.



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