Woodwork questions and answers level,mitre 10 diy garden shed,12x16 post and beam shed plans 4x8 - Try Out

All of that said, we are looking to replace the existing woodwork on the 1st floor with new stained wood trim. BilllThis probably isn't what you are looking for, but please reconsider trashing all of your old woodwork. Believe me, I am all over freecycling at the moment - but I'm having enough trouble getting people to want practically brand new vanities and toilets - we'll see if I have any luck with the older house stuff. As long as I am posting about wood - does that wood floor look like Douglas Fir to you guys? My last caveat is that part of the skills you need as an old house owner is screening out those contractors that are not used to working on old homes.
All that wood will refinish beautifully, based on our experience and the combined experience of about 300 members of the group I mentioned. Your house has very special, and style-specific, windows made of dense older-growth wood that Marvin can't match. Circus PeanutIt definitely is possible to remove the trim from windows, baseboards, etc, strip it and put it back in place, refinishing either while down or after it's re-installed. Your trim looks like oak, fir or even mahogany - in any case very valuable, sturdy material that will refinish beautifully. I'm also going to remind everyone that I bought an old house, want to keep it an old house, and would like to make it feel like it should feel - an old house with woodwork that fits. Ours is similar vintage (1905), also with lots of arts & crafts details, and does not have any crown moulding at all. When you build your addition, you may want to consider using reclaimed, re-milled wood for your flooring and trim. In place of the Colonial crown molding, look to see if you can't find some picture rail for your upper walls. And even Craig's List is a great resource for older wood trim and such -- this weekend I snagged 80 linear feet of my exact t&g doug fir flooring for $20. I spent two months stripping all the woodwork and added a 'new' picture rail about 20" down from the ceiling, using reclaimed fir wood. If you do that, you can get a general feeling for the amount of work that it would require to do the whole downstairs. Anyone have an idea of how difficult it's going to be to get the new pine windows to somewhat mesh with the (I'm guessing) existing oak trim? Circus PeanutMy best advice on getting the pine to match is to use aniline dyes in whatever finish you're using (poly, shellac, varnish, etc) - that way you don't worry about the blotchiness of oil-based stain soaking in to the soft pine, and you can exert a lot more control over the finished depth of color.
Woodwork Equipment Woodwork Equipment there is a level at which tools is too old to be useful? Questions, answers and advice for people who own or work on houses built during the 20th century. I really appreciate this update, since I've read the original thread you started regarding your windows several times. I like to use the danish oil rather than linseed because it dries faster , but I don't think you can put too much on if you are wiping it off good after every application.
The problem I have with linseed oil for the sole finish is that it absorbs very deeply, darkens the wood quite a bit initially, and will continue to darken ad infinitum if left open to the air.
I confirm this is a personal project inquiry and not a promotional message or solicitation.
We have worked on updating our early 1900’s Bungalow (as seen in the before and after pictures) since moving in 6 years ago and when we bought the house we loved that that trim and built-ins had never been painted. The current house is in pretty poor shape aesthetically - the vast majority of the woodwork has been painted over numerous times and banged up pretty well. The 2nd floor will be patched and repaired (and trimmed where necessary) but it will be painted and thus is not a big issue at the moment. If you ask a drywall person how to repair the plaster, he's going to tell you to rip it out and replace with drywall. When we moved into our 1910 house not one window worked, and our house is almost as big as yours is. If you frequent architectural salvage places in your area, you're likely to find a number of pieces in the same profiles to replace any spots where you will want to match stained wood. The original builders could obviously afford higher quality material, so you may want to consider other woods if you're going to go for all new. I'm not looking for a new house with new drywall, so please don't tell me to get a new house.
I'm outside of NYC, but there are a decent number of architectural salvage places that are on my list for doors & decorative windows - I will check them out for trim as well, I hadn't thought of that. Is it possible that someone added it at some point to try to change the looks of the house? Your woodwork looks like either oak or chestnut (the blight that killed the American Chestnut trees occurred around 1907, so it was available when your house was built).


And thankfully you're not doing what my previous owners did, which is to slap in some ugly cheap white vinyl, so big kudos to you for allotting the cash to really make it look good.
There are also companies that specialize in arts & crafts moldings, so you could get some ideas from them? Of course, if you were planning on hiring it out, you could get a quote of how much the restoration would cost. I had just assumed that I could mess around enough with stains to get them to match (relatively) but is that just naive? I don't think the height would work with the wallpaper friezes you mentioned, but I always liked the heft and think the chunky details are nice. For those of us interested in the ethics of preservation, it also counts as an irreversible procedure; it can't ever be gotten out of the wood except be the removal of some of the woodwork itself. But now….we are tempted to paint the woodwork white to get a more modern feel and lighten up the two rooms. We are also doing an addition to the house that we would like to mesh as well as possible with the original house. On the 1st floor, we are putting in Marvin windows with pine sashes, and since we want to stain all the woodwork, one person we've talked to is recommending to put in new pine woodwork.
But we've been advised (by more than 1 person) that getting rid of the trim may be the best way to go. You may be able to get some old growth replacement but it's going to be horrendously expensive.
The contractor we chose, recommended by the local historic preservation group, took out and repaired every window as well as rehanging the interior weights.
For that kind of money you can pay to have your original ones rehabbed, off site, so the lead issues shouldn't apply. Your floors look very much like my fir floors, and my trim is all fir as well, but that varies regionally. But please do consider a trial refinishing of some of your original trim before making a final decision! I'm in Maine - if you're around these parts, I also know a couple of FABulous pros for restoring your windows.
I'm glad to hear I'm not losing my mind on the crown molding not fitting - it looks so out of place.
Generally, they would not do it by hand but instead take it off site to be chemically stripped. I would love to do reclaimed wood flooring & trim - we'll see if it fits into the budget.
Still trying to figure it all out, but we are definitely trying to add in some details that have either been pulled out previously or that hopefully would've fit with the original idea of the house. I'm looking forward to doing some tinkering in a couple of weeks when I have a babysitter (3 little kids + construction = bad bad bad) and when they stop replacing the roof (shingles raining down on my head - ouch). We had to replace one windowsill with pine, and with a little experimentation got it to match our fir trim almost exactly. Woodworking equipment CNC employed conclusion can provide a great value Woodwork Equipment .
Indeed it has been seen as an original finish, and in such instances it could be excused, but even then, the most ethical subsequent treatment would be a light waxing (as the wax can easily be removed later, and does no harm).
And on top of that, we are redoing the heating and electrical systems, so walls (and the trim that is with them) will be ripped up all over the place, and the windows are being replaced as well.
But since we're staining it I'm hesitant to use pine for all the woodwork - I thought it wasn't great for staining?
Restoring an old home is a ton of work, but it is more rewarding than ripping everything out and replacing it with something brand new.
If you decide to throw away all of the hardwood trim, at least advertise it on freecycle or craigslist so some dedicated old-house person can put it to use, and keep the irreplaceable old hardwood from going to waste.
Most contractors are used to working on modern houses and have no clue on how to address an old house.
I am a huge old house lover and tearing out the windows was our last resort and was only decided after talking to window restorers and doing a lot of research on our own. Many of the books I've checked out from the library have great examples of the moldings, so I'm hoping to find something that fits.
You don't need any real skill, just determination - especially if there are lots of layers of paint. Thankfully I think we'll be able to repurpose some of the existing flooring (that we will be pulling up to move a couple of bathrooms) into areas that got damaged or pulled up (and replaced by plywood - gee thanks) by the previous owner. We have someone who is very good at woodwork so hopefully he'll be able to help us out with it soon so we can get a better idea of what we are dealing with. However, with work and finesse, the windows will turn out nicely, but they will not be a perfect match to oak.


If you need CNC tooling and you are shopping for woodworking equipment used for sale the solutions below can help you in your search. The woodwork needs to be removed around the windows for the new windows (as amicable as I am to keep the old trim, the old windows are no longer an option so although I know it's blasphemy to many to remove them, it's not a point of discussion any longer).
I would look around and see if you can find refinishing folks that can either do it for you or give you guidance. If someone doesn't give you the right answer or says it can't be done, kick him out and go to the next guy. We're hiring contractors on our own (i.e, for most of the project there is no GC) so finding people who match our vision isn't a problem - and though we don't live in a historic district (there are none in this area) we do live in a neighborhood with a lot of great old houses, so thankfully we have a lot of good brains to pick for ideas.
You aren't going to save any money that way compared to new off the shelf molding, but you would end up with a far superior product. Even if the control will not be present as the tools are all a total production work can expose the head arm and cutter to operate properly and regardless of whether the tools helps make noises that indicate mechanical problems or not Woodwork Equipment . Here are some pictures of the few areas that are not currently painted (inside of the closet & the staircase - a total mess but there is a lot of work going on at the moment).
Is it really feasible to remove and then replace the same wood, or will it get too damaged? There are numerous folks on the web that have refinished and repaired their interior trim so seek them out for tips. We'll see how horrible the woodwork is - I went over the other day and it looks like that for some (unknown and I'm sure ridiculous) reason they replaced part of the original baseboard trim with pine at one point (there's a small unpainted strip at the bottom where I guess carpet was installed - sure doesn't look the same as the rest)- I'm hoping it's just the one section but we'll see! Therefore several individuals shop for used woodworking CNC devices which are normally updated at least 20-5% of the original price. I'm attaching a pic of one of the rooms - another issue is the in-wall radiators are being removed - how can we add in new trim where the radiators were without it looking ridiculous in the middle of the old trim? Some of them were replaced with very very bad replacements back in the 50s, so those are obviously coming out. And the crown molding doesn't fit the house (in my opinion) - I think someone along the way wanted everything to be very colonial, so they came in and added the more colonial crown molding and painted everything over.
A house like your and the fantastic exterior deserves to retain the interior details that it has.
In our neighborhood replacing windows is now illegal, since we have a Historic Preservation Overlay Zone.
Most of the remainder have cracked panes (and not small cracked panes - large cracks with missing pieces).
To me, Arts & Crafts molding should have been a different profile, and that molding was never stained - I don't have a pic, but close up it looks like painted pine.
You wouldn't rip and replace the shingles with vinyl siding so why would you rip and replace the interior trim.
I can't imagine the original owners would've had painted pine crown molding and stained oak everywhere else..
And there is a significant (as verified by several old house cronies) lead paint issue, and the paint is peeling.
So whichever way we go, I'll still need to figure out what kind of molding to do along the ceiling to make it all work. In addition, in the back of the house we also had water seep inside the walls in a few places and the windows are rotted. We are not tossing them in a dumpster and I am hoping we will be able to reuse the glass that isn't cracked in some places inside the house decoratively.
I realize that many would argue that all of the issues can be fixed if we simply give it a lot of time and a lot of money. But the windows are being replaced, so I will ask that that piece of the discussion stop here. A device that is totally reconditioned can extended for years earlier than you would if you're not refurbished. Again, I appreciate and understand everyone's opinion, but this decision has already been made and not easily, so I'd rather not rehash it all over again. If the equipment will be used term extended on the other hand the value of obtaining a warrant which expires while the device is in use it decreases. If a new device substitutes soon and will be sold to pay for the new tools then guard with a warranty tends to make the perception.



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woodwork questions and answers level



Comments to «Woodwork questions and answers level»

  1. FREEGIRL19 writes:
    Ingenious ideas that you should use, to not only store fit.
  2. GuLeScI_RaSiM writes:
    You will be able to experiment and you store in the garage and.
  3. sauri writes:
    Mantle the inspiration was pottery barn kids' bulk bins for multi-coloured golf.