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Now I know this is a doll bed, but I have kids in my house, and I know they are rough on little furniture. 1-800-Bunkbed, LLC will start providing an all-encompassing, jump start program to their already comprehensive woodworking business package this summer. This program is for the serious business owner who wants to get his business off the ground as quickly as possible in order to be bringing in significant business within the 1st month. 1-800-Bunkbed LLC provides a low-cost opportunity for people to run their own nationally recognized bunk bed business right from their own home or shop. Reach out to the author: contact and available social following information is listed in the top-right of all news releases. The panels are a prominent part of the bed, so choose and combine grain patterns with care. The bunk bed legs are thick and long, making them the most troublesome part of the project.
Joint one face of each panel member, then joint an edge, before ripping each piece to wider-than0final width and jointing this sawn edge. As the panels are drying, joint and plane the rails and stiles to final size, then trim to length. Dry-fit all stiles, rails and floating tenons under clamp pressure to check for tight joints, then measure the inside dimensions of the frame (to the bottom of the grooves) to determine the ideal panel size. The plans show how each leg needs counterbored holes for the bed bolts, and two mortises to house the safety rails for the top bunk. These parts connect the head and foot boards, and support the two twin-size mattresses that the bed is made for.
Drill holes in the legs and side rails for the bed bolts now, then glue and screw the mattress support strips to the inside edge of the side rails. Test-fit the head and foot boards with the side rails using the bed bolts, but leave the safety rails off for now.
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Moving from one group of parts to another as you work allows wood to cup and twist (as it inevitably) will while you still have the opportunity to do something about it.
Mark the location of neighbouring pieces, then set them aside to dry for at least three or four days before jointing and edge gluing. You’ll save time if you rough-cut all stiles, rails, bullnose cap strips, side rail support strips, support boards, safety rails and ladder parts to width first, instead of running uncut limner through your planer and then cutting these parts.
The plans show how each leg has give parts: three hefty internal layers, caped by two face strips that hide the lamination lines. Keep all panel parts grouped, as you arranged them earlier for the best appearance, while dry-fitting the panel parts.
With all the parts of this project that needed dowelling, I invested in a self-catering drilling jig to help me bore accurate dowel holes in the panel edges and the ends of the side rails–all parts too large to be bored on my drill press. Mill and trim these parts to final size, then rout quirk beads on all four edges of the side rails, on one edge of the support strips, and along one edge of the support boards. Although there are supposed to be standard sizes out there, the variation from brand to brand can be considerable. Even if the safety rails fit easily into their mortises, they can be tight when they come together in the completed bed. The plans show how the corners of the outer support boards need square notches to fit around the legs.
I chose not to use stain because it highlights dents and scratches when light, unstained wood shows through the damaged areas.
When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Thin, newly split pieces like these tend to cup as they dry, so you’ll want to let that happen before jointing. Glue the cap strips over the sides showing the lamination lines, using as many clamps as needed for gap-free joints. When everything looks good, edge-glue the panels, scraping off excess glue after a few hours when it’s half-hard. It’s safest to have your mattresses on hand, then measure them and adjust side rail hole locations in the legs, and the side rail lengths, to suit. And that proofed a good precaution because Joseph, my two-year old, wasn’t in his bottom bunk more than five minutes before he sunk his teeth savagely into the silky, hand-rubbed urethane finish I applied. I designed the completed panes to be less than 12″ wide so they could be milled in any benchtop thickness planer after lamination.


A few wooden hand screws tightened across the edges of the layers will do wonders to align the parts as the main clamps draw them together. Give everything a day or two to dry, then joint the outside edges of the frame parts to level and square them. When the cap strips are glued to the panel frames, run the edge of the assembly over the jointer again, taking a light cut to level the sides for a tight fit with the legs. This creates four identical round-cornered mortises in the legs that need to be squared by hand with a chisel. The dimensions and locations I used are for mattresses that are slightly larger than printed mattress specs. Without an exceptionally thick mattress, the side rails press into your legs as you roll out of bed. I needed an 8′ set of pipe clamps to draw the head and foot boards together over the safety rails as the bed came together after finishing. The plans show how the joint line between leg and leg cap disappears if you cut so its edge lands on the joint line. A wing-cutter router bit in a table-mounted router is the best tool for cutting these grooves. Use these mortises as a guide to plane, rip and joint the safety rails you rough-cut earlier, so they fit into the mortises sweetly.
Splitting thick stock like this naturally reveals striking book-matched grain patterns on matching parts. Cleaning glue squeeze-out from the corner where the legs meet the panel frames would be difficult without help. Complete the rails by sanding, trimming to final length and routing quirk beads on all four edges.
It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Smear some acts the dry-fitted joints–when the joint is reassembled with glue the product prevents the squeeze-out from bonding to the surface wood.



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