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Gate Leg Drop Leaf Table PlansGate Leg Drop Leaf Table Plans Preparing the aprons: Cut the aprons to the finished dimensions given in the parts list. Writing TableThe rails were cut to the appropriate width and then resawn in half to yield the thickness shown on the cut list and plans. Free Woodworking Plans – WoodworkingBuild An Office Desk Popular Mechanics has a free project plan, materials list, plus instructions for a office desk that starts on this page. We have over seventy years of chip collection science and at least thirty years of professional fine dust collection science define the minimums we need for good dust collection. Since the 1920s fire marshal and building codes required good chip collection in most industrial facilities, so chip collection remains well understood. At least thirty more years experience by those firms who guarantee customer air quality also establish well tested fine dust collection minimums. At first this requirement to move nearly three times as much air makes no sense because we all know that the slightest breeze will blow dust highlighted in a beam of sunlight.
We need to understand wood dust causes a variety of immediate health problems and some long term adverse health effects.
All fine dusts pose so much health risks that the EPA sets standards of no more than 1.5 micrograms per cubic meter. Sadly, most even clean looking shops fail their air quality tests due to a buildup of residual dust.
The medical experts strongly recommend that vent the fine dust outside and if we have to filter that we use filters that separate down to at least 0.5-microns. The problem with such fine filters is that when we provide the minimum of one square foot of filter area for every 4 CFM of airflow, woodworking makes so much fine dust that our filters will clog after about twenty minutes of woodworking. Sadly, most small shop vendors choose to use this same very open outdoor filter material on their dust collectors and cyclones they sell for indoor use. Small shop vendors foolishly convinced most that cyclone performance is measured in CFM when the reality is cyclones get rated according to how well they separate and blowers get rated based on how much air they move. As discussed on the Cyclone Plan page the cyclone proportions and sizing depends upon the weight and density of the material to be separated, the needed airspeed, the needed collection air volume, and the size of the blower used to power our cyclone.
You should pick a material for your cyclone that is easy to work and that you can protect from constant sand blasting. Most find galvanized sheet metal provides the easiest fastest way to build my cyclone design. Building your own galvanized metal cyclone from scratch takes about twenty hours of metal layout, cutting, and forming followed by about ten five of propane torch soldering.
Plan - You must start with a well tested plan with accurate dimensions such as provided by my cyclone spreadsheet, or use a precut metal kit. Poster Board Full Sized Model - If you lack sheet metal experience make a full sized cyclone from poster board, cardboard and masking tape. This model ensures all gets laid out correctly, help you figure out all the different parts, teaches you how to gently work the metal to keep all round so the pieces fit well, helps you to refine your forming technique to avoid wrinkles and unnecessary bends, and for those who don't start with a precut kit the poster board provides a template for you to trace to ensure you layout and cut your metal correctly the first time. Template Rings - Just like the round cardboard rings that held the model round, this sheet metal cyclone depends on use of carefully made wooden template rings to ensure all comes out the right size, that all the round parts stay round, and that all will fit together. Cleaning - You need to remove the very thin coat of rolling and storage oil that manufactures use to coat sheet metal. Forming - After years of building these kits I learned that good initial metal forming remains the secret to cyclones that go together easily.
Joining the top cylinder to the cone and cone to the dust chute requires wooden rings, bent over tabs, or find a sheet metal shop that can roll a lip.
Fastening Seams - Going from easiest to hardest, you can use solder, a spot welder, screws, pop-rivets, regular rivets, brazing, welding or a seamer to make the joints. I prefer soldering because it quickly makes the best looking and strongest cyclone and requires only an inexpensive propane torch. One of the biggest problems with soldering today gets caused by solder that will not stick. Caution: Zinc, which is used often with other alloys like cadmium to galvanize steel is toxic when heated to a vapor and so is the lead in our lead based solders, so you need to work in a well-ventilated area and wear gloves. The easiest homemade way to build this cyclone is to use screws or pop-rivets then use polyurethane duct sealant. One of the nicest ways to build the cyclone is to use a spot welder like we use to build our cyclones then solder all the joints. Another technique uses a wire fed MIG welder with either light or heavy sheet metal construction.
A few friends have built my cyclone design from 16 to 18 gauge metal then used a TIG welder to make very strong welded joints.
Finally and perhaps the most elegant way to build a cyclone with the nicest joints uses 16 to 18 gauge metal, a professional heavy sheet metal fabrication plant, and all laser welded seams and joints. Other than going to a sheet metal shop that has powered seam making equipment we found a spot or MIG welder is the fastest way to hold our joints together tightly in preparation for soldering. I found using Phillips head sheet metal screws makes it much easier to remove them later to fill the holes with solder. I had so much solder leak through on some prior efforts that I came up with a jig to hold the metal tightly together without holes! Like most woodworking, the key to good joints is making sure the joints fit right on instead of trying to force things by using heavy clamps. I tried what many others do following the Wood Magazine plan using aluminum (not steel) pop rivets to do the holding while soldering.
In the aerospace industry aluminum sheet gets held together ready to rivet with temporary Cleco fasteners. Jigsaw, router, or band saw preferably with a circle cutting jig for cutting out round MDF disk templates.
If you are a touch on the perfectionist side like me 1 pound of solid core heavy wire solder is enough. Shipping and handling heavy sheet metal without a few dings and bent corners is impossible. Reduce the chances of getting cuts or metal slivers by carefully going over all the edges both sides with your metal file.
Take the sheet metal outside and thoroughly clean both sides with rags dampened with lacquer thinner. I used a couple of sawhorses with a 4' x 8' sheet of heavy plywood on top covered by a heavy tarp to make my cutout work area. Layout your metal parts following the spreadsheet dimensions using the small cutting diagram that is on the right corner of the spreadsheet and shown below. My cutting started with the little rectangular dust chute to get a feel for working with my tin snips. Now that we are experts, I wonder if my wife would let me have a new computer controlled laser cutter. In a perfect world we could just put the two pieces of metal together, apply heat and solder, and "poof" there would be a good joint. This is not a perfect world and in practice during soldering just about everything can and will go wrong.
In practice, even those who do lots of soldering, find this whole process very frustrating, wasteful of lots of solder, and creates ugly looking joints, so they use a different process.
Even after a thorough cleaning, you may still have some rolling oil or other contaminates on your metal that could interfere with soldering. The Truck Bed U-Lock from MasterLock is a lock specially designed for use in a pickup truck bed: the lock swivels 190 degrees, has a cylinder which can be easily changed to make several locks that are keyed alike, and is designed to fit several models of trucks with no drilling. Milwaukee’s new Door Lock Installation Kit (49-22-4073) is designed to make it simple to align and drill holes in slab doors. Disembarrass plans are commonly not very elaborate backbreaking to follow and most times leave leave you with more questions than answers. Breakthrough totally your jig plans shop storage plans and many carpentry tool cabinet plans astatine Woodcraft the leading provider of woodworking supplies jig plans and. Our shop cabinets storage and racks project plans admit elaborated instructions leisurely to read illustrations Compressed Air Work Station Woodworking Plan.
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It's chemistry, abras ives, coloring, compressors, spray guns, resins, solvents, clean rooms, and rubber gloves. Over 10,000 small shop owners use cyclones of my design and at least 6000 built their cyclones from these plans and building instructions.
Chip collection means picking up the sawdust and chips that we would otherwise sweep up with a broom. We need the same 4000 FPM airspeed for pickup and to keep our vertical ducts from plugging. I often ask people to wet a finger and see how far away from their lips they can feel blown air versus how far they can detect sucked air. Translated, less than two tiny thimblefuls of the fine invisible dust will cause a large two car garage sized shop to fail an EPA air quality test. Residual dust consists of that dust either missed during collection or with particle sizes so fine it passes right through our dust collector and cyclone filters. These are really fine filters because there are one million microns in a meter and a coarse human hair is only about 100-microns thick. Worse, cleaning rapidly ruins these fine filters which in most commercial facilities need replaced roughly every three months.
Many of these vendors carefully pick their filtering material so it just gets rid of the visible dust and freely passes the unhealthiest invisible dust right through. Hundreds of credible independent tests done by scientists, engineers and medical researchers show my 18" diameter cyclone with a 1.64 cone ratio provides the best possible small woodworking shop fine dust separation in a cyclone that just fits under an 8 foot tall ceiling. Many make their cyclones out of typical 30-gauge thin galvanized sheet metal used to make HVAC duct. Someone experienced with a sheet metal brake, slip roller, and beading machine can cut the forming time to a few hours. Even if you have a precut metal kit, first trace all the parts onto poster board and build a full sized cyclone model.
It took taping a couple of sheets together to make the cone and again two sheets to make the upper cylinder. Those who do not use template rings during inlet, cone, and air ramp installation and soldering invariably end up with junk having to start over because they either cannot install the cyclone top or mate the cone. If you do not remove that coating your solder and polyurethane sealant will not stick and building your cyclone will create a mess.
Local "box" store plumber's solder and flux will not stick well to the normal special metals and coatings on today's galvanized metals that can self-heal from small scratches. I prefer to do my soldering outside with a mild wind blowing or using a fan to blow across the work to minimize my exposure. They use powered rollers, brakes, and seam forming machines that let them make one of these cyclones quickly. Although screws and pop rivets work well, are easy, and do not require a lot of practice or special tools, they much such an ugly looking cyclone I don't recommend either. You can buy a used Miller tong type spot welder on eBay for about $200 or get a new one from Harbor Freight for about $160 on sale. Again, I do not have the skills to teach that type of metal working, and most do not access to an appropriate welder.
This welding omits the tabs, holds the two pieces of metal perfectly together, then uses an electric arc to melt the metal pieces together. I prefer a spot welder, but found that by drilling holes on just the outside of our joint, clamping the whole joint together, then a light touch with the MIG left a nice weld that held all together well for later soldering.
As with the self-starting sheet metal screws drill the top piece of metal with a hole larger than the threads and then drill a small starter hole in the bottom piece.
Unless you know what you are doing, using the long vise-grip type metal welding clamps creates nothing but an ugly mess of dented up metal and poor solder joints. These have barbed tips that slip through the rivet hole and grab the bottom piece of metal.


These screws are built to be driven into sheet metal by a drill driver and will strip out easily. You can solder with bigger flame or a MAPP gas torch, but don't follow my early lead and use your torch on too high as you will badly warp your metal and burn the galvanizing off which releases some pretty toxic gas. Duzall flux (Just about any flux will work if you are soldering bare cold rolled sheet metal, but if you are trying to solder galvanized material you need a special flux). Those dings and even some pretty significant tears in the package are nothing to worry about unless the metal is torn or seriously stretched. Cutting tabs before marking or forming not only creates lots of dangerous sharp edges, it makes the metal buckle and bend at the cut lines making it near impossible to make nice even curves, so is bad technique! If you mess up at all here or are sloppy in your cutting, the cyclone will not go together well at all. I did the same with the dust chute ring verifying it was the same size as the bottom of the cone. You can cut with tin snips, a metal jig saw blade, a power cutter, or any of a number of other devices. Both of us had hands so sore we needed to go rent some videos and rest up for a couple of days!
The right temperature depends upon solder type, flux type, and metal, so no one temperature will work for all soldering. Take your parts outside and clean the areas to be soldered with lacquer thinner to remove any oils or other contaminates. You need to start by testing your metal to make sure it is clean enough and your solder is compatible with the galvanizing. In that location are a band of free carpentry plans proscribed there just you get what you make up for. Results single 15 of 15 The best extract of how to articles stick out plans woodworking plans storage videos and tips on pecker Storage from the most trusted germ of woodworking and.
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Good chip collection requires enough air speed to pick up the dust and chip, enough air speed to keep that material moving through our ducts, and enough air volume to accommodate the volumes of dust and chips each different size and type of machine produces.
Likewise we need that same 2800 FPM to keep our horizontal ducts from building up dust piles. We can feel the blown air as far as we can reach, but can only feel sucked air when our finger is right next to our lips. When looked at through an electron microscope wood strongly resembles bundles of hollow mostly glass rods stuck together with organic products.
The medical experts know fine dust poses so much health risk that they recommend an even tougher standard of only 1.0 micrograms per cubic meter of air.
At a cost of over $250 a set for a small shop, few would be happy if they have to constantly clean and replace these expensive filters. So much dust gets passed through that most small shops build up such high amounts of fine invisible dust that just walking through the shop without doing any woodworking launches enough airborne dust to fail an EPA or medical air quality test. This sized cyclone works with blowers as small as 1.5 hp, but that sized blower will not power a cyclone, filters, ducting, and tool hoods and move the 1000 CFM we need at our stationary tools for good fine dust collection.
If you use this thinner metal you need to build support rings to keep the upper cylinder from collapsing. A commercial ducting shop with powered sheet metal tools can typically cut and build one of these cyclones from the cut metal in a few hours which is why many have these cyclones built for them at metal shops.
Far too many people write saying they omitted the poster board step resulting in messing up parts, transferring dimensions wrong, leave off tabs, etc. A poorly formed joint will almost never go together easily and requires way too much sealant or solder. Making the bent seams is easy and you can hide those seams with U-shaped automotive door trim, but most choose to make overlapped joints that look nicer from the outside. Also, if you have not done quite a bit of metal soldering, it is well worth your time to read over the below "Soldering 101" instructions.
You need a lead based solder, preferably one with a small silver content and the right flux. You can screw or pop-rivet the outer cylinder, the cone, the cone-to-cone outlet, and the air inlet. Then clamp the joint tightly exactly as it will sit and use those screw holes to drill through the other side of the joint. The Miller 18" tongs fit either unit and you need a set of these for roughly $90 to reach in deep enough to weld the cone. The technique I used with my MIG welder was to make holes in the outer side, clamp the joint together tightly then simply fill each hole with weld. I don't have a TIG welder nor the jigs needed to hold the metal perfectly fitted and held flat on a welding surface.
If you force clamps to hold all together then you need lots of clamps, plus as you heat the joint the metal it warps and goes all over the place. I found my MIG just does not have the temperature range to be good at welding thin galvanized steel, plus put out a lot of very toxic smoke so required me to be in my welding helmet with its built in respirator. These sheet metal screws work better than the self-starting sheet metal screws because they have a much bigger taper that will really pull that bottom piece tightly to the top before stripping. A jig works well until you do something stupid like me and loan the jig out and it never comes home.
The clamps are too much of a heat sink making it impossible to get solder around them without constantly changing clamp position or running a torch way too hot which will burn off and melt the galvanizing.
Drilling them out after is a real pain because the metal that flares the rivets spins unless you use something like Vise-Grip pliers, plus that metal shaft is so much tougher than the rivet body, you often end up drilling through the side of the rivet into the cyclone metal. Although these screws work well for many applications, they cost a bit more and did not pull the metal together tight enough for good solder joints.
You can easily fix any bends, dents, or dings using a hammer and backer block with light taps on your metal. If you leave the oil on the parts you can not make your solder stick, the caulking will not stick, the glue will not hold for the interior rubber blast plate, and paint will not stick to your cyclone.
The clear silver scratch shows up well on the back marker lines making it easy to see exactly where to cut. The aviation snips use a compound action that was lots easier on my hands, but the older pair did not leave the burred edges from my aviation snips. To get a really pristine solder joint you need do the right preparation, and use the right soldering technique. It will only go into and stay in a nice clean tight joint that is at the correct temperature.
With an open torch flame, bringing a small area of metal up to the ideal temperature without overheating takes practice. We first tin each part of the joint to be soldered separately, use fasteners to hold all together during soldering, then bring the two parts together and gently heat a much larger area adding just a little more solder to make a nice tight strong joint. You make this test by just using a little flux on some already cleaned test metal, gently heating moving your torch back and forth around about a 3" area with a little solder touching the heated area. You’ll find woodworking plans for bookcases and bookshelves hanging wall shelves and cabinets shop and garage computer memory small Woodworking Plans offers 16000 plans. Why corrupt elaborate gas pedal cabinet plans elaborated are essential if you need your gun locker to atomic woodworking plans kreg jig number 4 top lineament when your project is You want it to look courteous because you put.
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Decades of applied science and practical experience helped the major dust collection firms build tables that show exactly how much airspeed and air volume we need to collect the different materials. The major difference between good fine dust collection and chip collection is we need to move far more air, roughly 1000 CFM to get good fine dust collection at our typical small shop stationary tools. Think about what would happen if you glued a bunch of glass tubes together then slammed a machete to cut through that bundle. Just slapping our denim shop apron launches enough of this fine dust to fail either an EPA or medical air quality test.
In fact, when a few of the sealed pyramids were opened researchers found considerable wood dust that still lingered settled on every surface.
Pre-filters work, but they again require lots of cleaning so most commercial facilities instead use much more open filters that they vent directly outside where the airborne dust blows away. To move enough air with that overhead we really need a 14" diameter or larger impeller turned at 3450 RPM by at least a 3.5 hp motor. Blasting the inside of a cyclone with this damp hot sand causes many commercial cyclones to rust and wear through right at the point where the incoming air hits the outer cylinder wall.
Then carefully work out your technique to form the rounded cyclone parts and fold the rectangular inlet without any wrinkles and unnecessary bends. You need two round 18" diameter rings to help size and keep the upper cylinder and top of the cone round. You need to use a slip roll or slowly hand form all the round pieces over a 4" PVC pipe making sure you don't get bends.
I think soldering with a propone torch works best and makes the nicest looking finished unit.
If soldering is not your thing, then go to the pop-rivet or screw type construction with polyurethane caulk. I get excellent soldering with a solder that contains 50% lead, 48% tin and 2% silver but any 50% lead tin mixed solder works well. In 2000 my local firm charged me $75 to roll all the metal and then make every joint except the air ramp. If you do not use this technique you will often get bad wrinkles in the metal and this is the only way I know to ensure hand drilled holes line up. Some woodworking clubs held cyclone building sessions where they went together to buy or rent a spot welder. The one local firm with this equipment charges $80 an hour which comes to about $400 to weld up one of these cyclones. Solder when melted is thinner than alcohol so it will pour right out of any poorly made joint.
A spot welder saves a lot of time drilling and putting in either screws, rivets or other types of fasteners without the large amounts of toxic fumes.
The secret to removing the screws after soldering is to ensure you do not solder over the heads. Again, having a joint that already fits tightly is critical as these are not going to pull a poorly made joint together. They require a gentle touch or using homemade aluminum clamping pads to clamp without using so much force that the clamps bend or dent the metal. You can purchase Cleco fasteners and the special pliers needed to compress their spring to set them.
The only way I found to make them pull the metal tight enough together for soldering was to pre-drill a hole larger than their threads on the top piece of metal.
My big American Beauty electric tinning iron used to solder gutters works, but so slowly I gave it up in favor of my propane torch. You can fix flat pieces on smooth concrete and it is best to have a curved metal block like automotive body workers use for the curved pieces (you may have to work both sides). In terms of preparation you have to thoroughly clean the metal surfaces, sometimes including having to remove the galvanized coating.
If you don't start with new un-oxidized solder and clean tight joints, your soldering will be a mess. The secret is to heat slowly and let your solder tell you when you are at the right temperature as it will flow onto metal that is just right and you do not have to melt the solder with your torch. Get your garage basement or workshop organised by building a set or two of these storage garage shelves storage shelves diy free woodworking plans. This free woodworking plans list features a solicitation of chest of drawers projects for building respective blanket boxes corresponding depot and blanket chests.


For woodworking these tables show we need to maintain a target air speed of at least 3800 feet per minute (FPM) airspeed to suck up the chips and keep vertical duct runs from plugging. The reason is sucked air comes from all directions at once and blown air hangs together for quite a distance before it disperses. You would end up with a fairly clean looking cut but would also generate lots of tiny broken pieces of glass. And this causes a big problem because adding fine enough filters to existing dust collectors and cyclones simply clogs and quickly ruins the filters. Cyclones that don't use my more efficient design need at least 4 hp motors to move the same amount of air. You should protect that first contact point with a rubber sheet or coating like truck bed spray on liner. Most find if they make a poster board model they save considerable time overall and often avoid remake of a few parts.
These rings keep the upper cylinder from warping or going out of round while installing the inlet, air ramp, and cone. If you make overlapped joints, remember my plans use tabs on both sides, so you need properly overlap the tabs. If you are using screws then drill the outside joint holes a bit larger so hand tightening pulls the joint together.
It takes some practice unless you get a welder that lets you setup an automatic weld to ensure the spots go deep enough without burning through, but these produce quick, strong good looking welds. This is clearly the way to go if you are building a very heavy larger commercial unit, but not affordable or practical for most small shop cyclones.
These clamps are also are so heavy that their weight alone will bend the metal if the clamp weight is not supported.
Then use a drill to drive the screw into the lower piece of metal stopping before the screw pulls in. There are a number of different galvanization processes and some do not solder with normal solders and fluxes. To have a nice tight joint, you can't do like a welder and just use a clamp because a clamp will steal all the heat from the area that the clamp pads touch. Lock yourself in for antiophthalmic factor deep brush aside now brush aside LINK tedwood. To provide a little safety factor most woodworking dust collection engineers design their systems with at least a 4000 FPM airspeed.
Because airspeed falls at roughly twelve times the distance squared, we lose the airspeed we need to pull in the fine dust before normal room air currents blow it away unless we move lots of air or totally contain all the dust as it is being made.
This at a microscopic level is exactly what happens even when we hand plane what appears to be a near perfect curled shaving. As a result, most small shops that vent their dust collectors and cyclones inside build huge amounts of residual dust then just about any activity in our shops launches this dust over and over. Existing gravity based cyclones separates off almost all of the visible dust by weight which keeps our filters from quickly clogging with larger chips, but still results in fine filters plugging roughly every few hours of use. Motors typically come in either 3 or 5 hp sizes, so I recommend spending the little extra to get a real 5 hp motor as it makes no sense to me to pick an undersized or poor quality motor for the most heavily used motor in your shop. One of these rings goes into the cyclone top and the other just above the cone to hold all round. One of the two 18" rings becomes the cyclone top which holds the internal cyclone outlet cylinder and lets you mount the cyclone to the blower. For the best joints patiently hand work the metal carefully until each joint fits without a need for claming. Duzall flux of the dozens of different fluxes I tried consistently works well to solder today's galvanized metals. After all the holes are drilled run a bead of flexible polyurethane gutter and flashing caulk on one side of the joint. Careful MIG welding does an equally fine job and is used on at least one commercial hobbyist cyclone. The stainless screws act just like pop-rivets or your sheet metal screws in terms of pulling all the joints together tight with no holes to fill. To make these types of clamps work, you need at least three long reach clamps, each with the wide articulated pad that provides a flat clamping surface instead of the rounded point type clamps plus aluminum pads to spread the clamping pressure down our joints instead of in a small circle. I liked how well mine worked, but finally gave up on these after ruining too many fasteners.
A very low flame and keeping the torch moving makes lots of work, but produces excellent results!
You can buy special solder at welding supply stores designed that work with almost all galvanized metal.
You need to slowly heat both the metal and your fasteners all to the same critical temperature letting the metal melt the solder, not your heat source.
Some use fine hardware cloth (wire mesh) that they then coat with fiberglass, epoxy, or even spray with truck bed liner.
A pair of 9" diameter rings ensures your air outlet cylinder gets sized correctly and stays round. You still end up having to grind off the screws inside the cyclone to keep strings and shavings from hanging up on the screw threads that stick inside the cyclone, so I prefer using pop-rivets. These end screws keep all the other screws aligned opposite each other and hold the two pieces of angle iron off the metal.
With that much work, it was cheaper, easier and much faster to use a single sized hole and pop rivets. You can't just let the two pieces of metal stand on their own because sheet metal expands at different rates opening gaps between the two pieces.
Finally, most small shop stationary tools require at least 350 cubic feet per minute (CFM) airflow to pull in the volumes of dust and chips they produce. These too small to see without magnification particles slip by our bodies' natural protections.
Most filters are open enough that the fine dust accumulates in the filters, so when we first turn on our dust collectors or cyclones the initial blast of air blows lots of this fine dust right through our filters. At least 6,000 people worldwide now use my cyclone and get great fine dust collection using 14" impellers on 5 hp motors.
After your full sized cyclone fits well those who cut their cyclones get to use these templates to make your cyclone metal and wooden parts. A 6" disc gets used to keep the cyclone dust chute, the cyclone inlet transition, and the blower outlet transitions round. You can special order near flat headed tiny pop-rivets which almost totally vanish on both the inside and out.
Most small shop vendors make their cyclones using either spot welding, MIG welding, or TIG welding. The only two clamping techniques that worked well for me were sheet metal screws and spot welding.
I used surplus stainless steel thumbscrews because the stainless does not conduct the heat away from the joints like steel welding clamps do.
If you were going to make a few of these and have no access to a spot welder, making a jig is well worth the trouble and you will spend less time making the jig than filling and sanding holes with solder. For those who use normal clamps, I found separating these clamps by about 1" is ideal, so instead of a few we end up needing more than a dozen.
Careful testing shows that reducing that airflow to 900 CFM ends up with five times more airborne dust. Then depending upon size these sharp barbed particles lodge at different places in our respiratory tissues where they cut and tear our tissues.
Moreover most filters use spun polyester fibers which build up a strong static charge from the air flowing over the filter strands. I invented my cyclone design to also separate off 90% of all the fine airborne dust that other cyclones send right into the filters.
I prefer a larger 15" impeller because the extra airflow gives more flexibility and is more forgiving. Their entire effort took less than an hour and left a pristine near perfect looking cyclone. I used to recommend putting the screw heads inside, but that left insufficient room for good access. Stainless is a natural insulator, so the screws do not act as heat sinks, plus most solder will not stick to these screws. You can "leap frog" the clamping by starting at the center then using two pairs of clamps working outward.
Using clamps to hold the metal together does not work because the clamps make controlling temperature near impossible.
Once the solder or metal is overheated, you must start over with another round of cleaning and scuffing. Reducing to 800 CFM lets fifty times more airborne dust escape collection and airflow below 800 CFM results in such poor fine dust collection that shops subject to inspection would immediately be shut down due to dangerously high airborne dust levels. As a result the peer reviewed medical studies show every fine dust exposure causes a measurable loss in respiratory capacity and some of this loss becomes permanent. As a result people have been using my cyclone without harming their fine filters for more than ten years versus needing to replace them quarterly with other designs.
With some careful tuning that same 5 hp motor can power a 16" impeller for maximum airflow bragging rights, but if improperly tuned the result can try to move so much air it will burn up a 5 hp motor. Their eight foot long power roller rolled all nice and round including a perfectly tapered cone. Tight joints require carefully forming the metal and then securing it every 1" or closer to hold all together for soldering.
Although our bodies come with more than double the capacity we need for most things, over time the accumulated loss worsens a wide variety of other health problems, particularly other age related and respiratory diseases.
My certified air quality inspection showed my clean shop immediately failed as soon as we turned on my cyclone before we did any woodworking. With plastic being slicker than metal, it does a better job of separation, but can build up static charges. For the pop rivets put the head inside which means you have to put in your riveting tool inside which is a little cramped.
If soldering we end up having to heat the whole area including the clamp enough to get the solder to flow. Insurance companies used to share on the Internet their data that show 100% of commercial woodworkers suffer at least a 50% loss in respiratory capacity from their woodworking careers. They also had a special seamer that made the cyclone center joint between the cone and cyclone top, sealed the inlet to the outer cylinder, plus it put the rings on the bottom of the cyclone and both transitions. After securing and the sealant dries, put a piece of heavy aluminum duct tape over the inside of each joint. This is a pain and can easily cause burns if you are not real careful when moving the clamps. This is particularly bad news for small shop and hobbyist woodworkers because the insurance data is for larger facilities that almost always vent their fine dust outside. Typical small shops that instead vent their dust collection inside average about 10,000 times higher airborne particle levels. My metal workers advised that there are quite a few different joints and levels of these joint forming machines, most of which require different length tabs, so check before cutting any metal to be used with automated seaming equipment. Using screws and pop rivets makes for an uglier cyclone exterior, but where it counts is on the inside. This means that as we heat up the next area our clamp is going to keep the just soldered area from getting so hot the solder melts there too.
Although private industry spent fortunes to prove that wood dust poses no major health risks, the reality shown by peer reviewed medical studies is that any woodworker who does not protect themselves will experience trouble, often in their later years of life. All of these joints still required being sealed with solder or a polyurethane duct sealant. Anyhow, unless you carefully formed the joint to be tight and only use low slow heat when soldering, the metal will warp, you will "un-solder" previously soldered areas, and . Automotive door edge trim will snap right over the tops of longer rivet heads it you want to dress them up some. Most end up putting in screws every 1", soldering, then removing the screws and with the clamp to act as a heat sink patching the holes. I personally use a spot welder rather than either clamps or screws to try and hold all together.



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