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You can spend hundreds of $$$ on a fancy router lift or you can make your own that is more versatile and under $25. A tablesaw Outfeed Table helps you manage large boards while you're working with them, such as 4' x 8' sheets of plywood.
Note: For the reasonably priced woodworking plans, I email the PDF file to your PayPal email address after your payment clears. This design is unique in that it quiets the router while maximizing dust collection and cleanliness. The complete woodworking plans include a Bill of Materials, detailed drawings with pictures and description of each step. You will be so impressed with these two jigs, you won't know how you ever got along without them.
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Post your projects & plansShare your projects and plans with others in the Start Woodworking community. In this article, I'll describe how to fashion a mortised butt hinge, piano hinge, knife hinge, and round hinge.
This article originally appeared in Taunton's Complete Illustrated Guide to Choosing and Installing Hardware (2003).
Mortised butt hingeMeasure and cut a spacerMeasure the centerpoint: This demonstration shows how to hinge a small box, but you can adapt this same approach to hanging a door onto a carcase.
Clamp a scrap board to the box’s outer edge to prevent tearout and to increase the bearing surface for the router’s baseplate.
These woodworking plans are clear, easy to understand, and detailed enough for any skill level.
In addition, I ship any documents or materials that come with individual plans to your provided physical address. Why should you spend a small fortune on a router-lift that limits your table-mounted router? Once you know the correct procedure, you'll wonder why you should pay anyone else ever again. In addition, I ship any materials that come with the individual plan to your provided physical address. You can joint, use templates, and make tongue and grooves, while having everything readily available. With expert instructions, you can build a professional-style router table fence for under $50.
As I labored through making a couple of the 3-in-1 cribs, I developed eight pages of modifications to promote safety. One drawer is customized for jewelry, and the center drawer has compartments for make-up items and lipsticks. It's easy to modify to suit your needs, so create a quality piece that your family and friends will admire! You will find photo album storage in the top right and an adjustable shelf for the top left sides of the bookcase. The three screws are spaced to align with wall studs for maximum stability and wall mounting. Thanks for all your help - very good customer support - the best I have seen in a long time!
I'll also describe a template for hinge mortising, and how to square a routed hinge mortise, rehabilitate common hinge mortise problems and install a passage door. But bear in mind that the length of the jig may create a clearance problem, requiring you to cut the mortises in the carcase components before assembling them. If you are serious about using your tablesaw to its fullest, you will get a lot of use out of the outfeed table. You screw the front wood "bar" to the bottom, which makes it easy to take apart and clean the bird feeder. This bird feeder is made from solid oak with spar urethane finish and stainless steel screws.
These remarkable woodworking jigs allow quick set-ups, efficient cuttings and precise results with few mistakes, even if you don't have much skill.
You make a baby crib, which turns into a toddler bed and finally becomes a full-sized bed when your little one isn't so little anymore.
It takes two actions to release the side.) This is why I recommend the Rodless Crib Gate Hardware. As a bonus, music box plans and poker box plans are included as variations on the unique design. You secure the top to the pedestals with threaded inserts, which makes it is easy to take apart for moving to another home. In addition, the lower section also comes with an adjustable shelf for maximum customization. Solid oak construction makes this bookcase plan ultra nice, but it will work with other woods as well, depending on your needs. As you'll see, learning how to craft mortised hinges will open up some amazing woodworking possibilities.
Piano hingeMeasure between leaf and pinMeasure hinge positioning: To properly position the hinge, you need to make sure that the centerpoint of the hinge pin will be slightly past the rear edge of the box. Chisel work for square cornersCarve the mortise and clean out the waste: With this jig from Rockler, you can purchase inserts that match a variety of hinges.
The lighted Mirror is folding, so you can see all sides of your head, and you control the lights on the mirror by a touchpad.
To do that, close the hinge, and measure the distance from the barrel to the opposite side of the hinge pin.
How close you dare to rout to the layout lines depends on your courage, experience, and whether you drink espresso or decaf.
Template for Hinge MortisingTransfer measurementCenter the hinges : To help ensure that you position the hinges squarely, measure the distance from the edge of the hinge’s leaf to the edge of the pin. Follow your labels and screw the hinges in placeSecure the hinges: To complete the mortises, begin with a vertical chisel cut at each end. Squaring a routed hinge mortiseClamp the spacerClamp the spacer and lay out the hinges: Use a pencil to transfer this line to masking tape on the base and lid. Next, put the chisel’s bevel against the routed bottom of the mortise to finish removing the waste at the ends.


Now you’ll change tactics because a vertical chisel cut along the grain could split the delicate wall near the inside of the box.
These lines are for reference only—the spacer determines the actual positioning of the hinges.
Fixing hinge mortise problemsDrill pilot holes and screw down hinge leavesSecure the hinges: Clamp the spacer between the base and the lid. A completed mortised butt hingeFinishing touches: You already drilled the pilot holes for the hinges, so the only thing that remains is screwing the hinges into place. Lay out the hinges so that you’ll install each one identically—one hinge leaf has an even number of knuckles, and the other is odd.
An alternative to the lid supportVariation- add a built-in stop: The completed installation has an unobtrusive look. Installing a passage doorScore the woodMark the hinge outlines: Carefully position a hinge so that the barrel’s axis is centered over the spacer, then drill a pilot hole and screw down one leaf with a single screw.
The piano hingeDetermine box dimensions: If you want to skip the lid support, you can use a hinge with a built-in stop. The geometry of this hinge is a bit different from an ordinary butt hinge because you have to leave the entire hinge barrel proud of the back of the box so that it will operate properly.
Secure the other hinge using the same procedure, then finish drilling the remaining pilot holes Round hingeLetter the hinge positionsLabel and remove the hinges: Use a striking knife or crafts knife to score the wood fibers along each hinge’s outline.
In addition, you can’t lay it flat to utilize the method described above, so you’ll have to rely strictly on measuring and marking. Measure the closed hinge's diameterCheck proportions with a carcase: Running the entire length of the box, a piano hinge adds an attractive edge to your box's hardware.
Cut half-depth mortises in the base and lidRout the mortises : Lettering the hinges and the lid lets you quickly replace each hinge in its home.
Rough dimensionsCut the hinge to length: To create an easy mortise for a piano hinge, simply make the back of the box narrower than the sides and front. Deepen the score line with a knifeComplete the mortises: There are two different ways to mortise the hinges—you can cut a full-depth mortise in the box’s base, or cut half-depth mortises in both the base and lid, as I did. To determine how much narrower, measure the diameter of the closed hinge’s knuckle, and subtract 1?16 in. When you set the router’s depth of cut, you’ll also want to create a slight clearance gap along the back edge of the lid.
Mark the cutlineMount the hinge to the lid: When you assemble the box, the narrower back makes a full-length mortise.
In this example, I knocked together a quick plywood carcase to check the proportions of a blanket chest I’m designing. Drill pilot holes and drive screwsFasten leaf to the back of the box: Mark the cutline on the hinge, and cut it to length by using a hacksaw with a blade that has 32 teeth per inch.
Screw in the second leafCheck out the finished product: Keep construction simple by planning the size of the top so that you can mount the hinge flush with the top’s rear edge.
Add strength with a surface-mounted piano hingeVariation- simplify construction with slotted screwholes: A back view of the completed installation shows how the lid is slightly above the back edge of the box so that it will always shut completely at the front. Rockler hinges ease installationPrepare the hinge: For utility applications— where strength is more important than appearance—you can surface mount a piano hinge using the same procedure that you would for individual hinges.
Making toolboxes or shop cabinets are two typical applications for surface-mounted piano hinges. Hinge mortising made easyTighten the template: Piano hinges available from Rockler, including the specialized flange-leaf type shown here, have slotted screwholes that provide easier positioning and installation. Remove the fasteners to fit into the templateDetermine mortise width: It’s always a good idea to test the settings of a jig on scrap stock instead of immediately routing a completed door or carcase. Once you have the adjustments dialed in, you’ll be able to move through your project quickly and confidently. Prepare and cinch the templateMark the door: To allow the hinge to fit easily into the adjustable template, unscrew the finials or withdraw a removable pin.
Measure the hingeCheck for square: Put the hinge into the opening of the template, slide the bar snugly against it, and tighten the knobs. Transfer measurementsMark the opening: To set the width of the mortise, measure the hinge. Verify equal measurementsPrepare the router and set the depth of cut: With the finials on this hinge, I could bury the hinge only up to the barrel. Score the wood fibersRout the mortise: Loosen the knobs under the fence, and move the jig forward or back until its back edge touches the width line you marked on the door. Tighten the knobs, and check for square by measuring the distance from the edge of the jig to the fence.
When the measurements are equal at both ends of the jig, it is square to the fence and therefore square to the door.
Use a piloted bit in your routerFine-tune the mortise: Loosen the clamps that hold the fence to the door, and move the edge of the jig’s opening where you want to install the first hinge. I set the depth of cut at slightly less than half of the hinge knuckle’s thickness so that the latch side of the door would close snugly.
A completed mortiseMark the mortise: When you rout the mortise, start with a light pass along the edge of the door, rout clockwise around the perimeter of the jig’s opening, and finally clear out the waste in the center of the mortise. A handy Rockler jigWork on the back wall: The completed mortise is nearly ready to receive the hinge. If this test mortise isn’t long enough to accept the hinge, you can easily fine-tune the fit. Simply loosen the knobs that hold the sliding bar, and again place the hinge in the opening. But this time, add a piece or two of self-stick notepaper between the end of the hinge and the jig.



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