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As I started to acquire vintage chisels, I realized that my chisel storage had no room for more.
A solution presents itselfMonths passed and then one day I saw a Woodsmith TV episode where they built a mobile shop cart. After that I chamfered the holes and all the edges (except the bottom rear edge which will support the weight of the tray).
In retrospect, I should have done as much work as possible before drilling the holes and sawing the slots.
My advice is to do all the chamfering and smooth-planing before any holes or slots are cut. To prevent splitting, I drilled a pretty big hole for the L-hooks and as deep as the hardware would run. Once the test-fit into the pegboard proved true, I removed the L-hooks to finish the piece. I actually saw the same article and plan on making multiple shelves for various things in my shop!! Yeah, pegboard isn’t sexy, but the white pegboard I used looks much better than the brown.
Still another advantage of the modular tool supports using L-hooks is that I can practice making shelving that I would have to make for the cabinet.
I also didn’t want to spend a lot on chisels initially until I had uncovered my preferences.
DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. Back in 2009 I built Fine Woodworking's workbench from the Getting Started in Woodworking series-. The height of the opening that I planned to slide the drawer case into was 15”, so that limited the stand-alone case height to less than that. Before cutting the rails, I built one drawer, affixed the slides and took outside dimension measurements to double check my math on how wide the case should be.
After the glued assembly dried, I test-fit the drawer slides on the drawer and put it inside the case. Alder has been my shop wood of choice for tool racks, so I cut a piece of Alder to size to serve as my pretty drawer face.
After that, I affixed my shop-made drawer handle using a layout template to align the drill holes precisely with the centers at each end of the handle.
These European slides rise a tiny bit upon the initial opening then settle down a smidgon to finish the opening movement. Installing and Using the New DrawersAfter inserting the case into the bench opening it was time to insert the drawers. I adjusted the case so that the front of the drawer handles were flush with the bench top as you look straight down. I found that the weight of the drawers was not sufficient to hold them in place during use. How is it possible that something so simple as three drawers…that I build with my own hands, tools and curses, could give a grown man so much pleasure? I’ve been using the drawers for a few months now and am pleased that they have indeed met my original goals. Next time I will make a case front frame (rails) so that the spaces between the drawers are all covered. They’re something we just take for granted, but drawers are a fantastic invention aren’t they? I tweaked the design by eschewing slot tracks that formed a square, and going with two tracks perpendicular to the front and back. As careful I was in my planing and squaring the fence, it still requires me to tweak it a bit when I put it under tension.
Ever since I got back into woodworking a few years ago, I’ve been using a dead-blow mallet for my chisels.
Mallet partsFor the two sides I used some cherry I had left over from a side table project. Working the mallet headI started by jointing one edge on each of the three laminate pieces and crosscutting them to length (leaving the center piece a bit long). I laid out the center piece to be cut by marking a center line on it and carrying this over to each of the sides.
With the handle firmly on the center oak piece, I used my marking knife to scribe the outline of the sides. The next morning, I set my miter box to 5 degrees and established a kerf perpendicular to each face. Initially, I tried using my low-angle block plane but after a couple of swipes it clearly lacked the mass to carry it through a full cut . Finishing touchesThe handle was a tinsy (you do have a try-square graduated in tinsies right?) bit thick so a smoothing plane shaved off enough to allow for a tight fit. Next, I chamfered the mallet edges, used my block plane to give the handle a semi-octagon shape, applied two coats of BLO and waxed the surface. Jay, I though about doing some through pins but I wasn’t sure how they would hold up under all the whacking.
Jay, I thought about doing some through pins but I wasn t sure how they would hold up under all the whacking.
That required modifying the placement of the dowels by eliminating the ones for the bottom and adding one (for a total of two) to each of the sides.
The project was so much fun that now I’m toying with the idea of building one more—complete with dyes and specialty hinges.
I saw that episode of the Woodsmith Shop and had planned to build one but other projects got in the way.
Beautiful work I’ve made a few from the same plans, though I love your solution to the lid support. When I was pumping out 8 or 10 cutting boards every month to give away I tried several times to make one like the flag. I spent 24 years in uniform, and I have to say that I find the idea of using our nation’s flag as a cutting board rather insulting.
Nice job Brad, I have thought about doing one with paduak and maple but the paduak is too expensive.
After going away for a bit and thinking I thought my comment a bit short allow me to make this addition. Everyone always says that building a deck is an easy construction project…I think that most of the people that say that are either framers (they build entire houses so a deck IS easy for them) or people that never really have built one. Once I decided on a railing system, I created the railings from the drawings in the catalog of the company that I had chosen. The wife really liked the way these looked so with that I took my designs into AutoCAD and did a full set of construction prints. The fascia is Azek, triple screwed every 16”, countersunk and covered with special caulk made specifically for Azek products. We miscalculated slightly when we cut the siding for the ledger, so there was a slight gap, showing the flashing.

From the sketch works to the final installation & finishing, deck building is no joke, I think. I like seeing all the construction before the final deck boards are on, thats where all the work is. Seriously… I’m almost as impressed with your SU skills as I am with the end result project! So a few years ago, my brother saw to it that a set of Wood River chisels found their way under my Christmas tree. So new vintage tools ended up on a slotted shelf I attached to the side of my router table…or in holders taking up valuable real estate on my pegboard.
I could build an attractive chisel tray that could hold many more tools securely while eliminating the injury-inflicting shelf hooks. I used my #4 on the faces and edges (going very lightly along the slotted edge to avoid tear out).
I saw something on one of their shows quite a bit ago and made a few different types of holders, but just out of 2×4s. So when I do get around to spending big bucks on good wood to build my cabinets, I’ll know how to lay them out according to my tastes. That will give me a lot of practice: a) practice cutting dovetails, b) practice designing tool storage to fit my tools and preferences. I wanted things to be easily accessible while keeping dust off treasured tools ensconced within.
I cut the boards to size but before I could create the tongues and grooves to join them, I had to flatten them. Then I cut the rails to rough length, used a shooting board to make them even and dovetailed all four of them to the case. Then I used a round over bit on the router table for the edges, and glued the machined piece to the drawer assembly.
Once that dried, I cut some shelving material to size and placed it on the bottom to cushion the seating of tools to come. After test fitting the top and bottom drawer, I realized that I needed to trim a bit from the depth of the center drawer. After cutting out the inner recess with a coping saw, I used sandpaper strips as a manual belt sander to round the edges and shape the handles. The noticeable gap at the top of the case is necessary because the drawer has to be tilted upward to seat it into the rollers. I had to adjust the drawer slides to allow for this roller-coaster movement while avoiding any rubbing against a neighboring drawer. While they went in, I was smiling like a kid piling blueberries, toffee and cookie sprinkles on a cup of frozen yogurt at the end of a hot July day. This ensures that the handles won’t interfere with my work while I plane, saw or lean against the bench. To keep the case from flopping around like a tuna on a Florida fishing boat, I screwed through the bottom shelf into the case sides to secure it. It is amazing just how much stuff you can get into drawers and you’ll always know where those things are now. Had I to do it over again, I would definitely have installed a taller false front on the top drawer. First there was the chest, then people got fed up with rumaging through everything to find what they wanted, so the drawer evolved.
I cut the slot in anticipation of purchasing the t-slot track later (wanted to minimize costs on the initial build).
I purchased a piece of Baltic ply clad in laminate for the table and every now and then look over and put it on my mental list.
A Swedish furniture maker by the name of James Krenov fashioned wooden hand planes by laminating two sides to a cut middle. The plan was to cut the center laminate section (same thickness as my handle) to correspond with the handle slope.
I cut all three pieces to size being sure to leave the center oak piece a bit long on each end.
The project calls to chamfer the edges of the lower handle to that of a near-octagon shape.
Then I ripped them to width, jointed the ripped edges and flattened the surfaces so that the three pieces mated very tightly together. Then using these as a guide, I affixed it to the handle along its penciled centerline using double-sided tape.
I laid an outside cherry piece on the bench and glued the cut oak pieces to it using the sloped end of the handle as a spacer. Because my miter box doesn’t lock at the 5 degree setting, I used my fine-toothed crosscut backsaw to complete the cut.
To prevent tear out I used one of the waste pieces from the 5 degree face-cutting operation as a backstop. It yields a pleasing wooden whack when pushing my bench chisels through a practice mortise.
I have seen some laminated mallets that have through-pins for addedassurance against splitting.
After soliciting advice from fellow lumberjocks I put a 10 degree back bevel on the iron of a spare #4 and chamfered the iron edges before planing. But after pricing the dye ($40 for two to be mixed) I decided it was much more than I wanted to shell out for this project. Like hell if I was going to cover over a beautifully-figured birds-eye maple bottom with cheap felt. I found using very small (almost thumb sized) planes made for violin making with almost a 60 degree angle on the plane iron and a slight bevel on the edge, I got clean lines on the birds-eye maple.
My only complaint is the use of our nations flag as a cutting board of which I will not apologize But it is a very nice job well executed so I might suggest build an equally nice frame for it and make a wall hanging of it. I bought some Bloodwood just for this purpose, but haven’t had a chance to use it yet. Thats why you are starting to see more entourage in the render…since she liked the design I started to put in more detail so it would look more realistic.
For the first row I had to use my biscuit joiner to cut slots in the solid picture frame board at each joist.
The vinyl lattice was tacked to a nailing strip up under the perimeter joist and just buried and inch in the ground. So I ripped some trim from the leftover pieces and scarf jointed it together along the siding bottom edge. That immediately reminded me of the boy who wanted a Red Ryder BB gun in the movie A Christmas Story.
So I thought about going with an 18” tray…then said what the hell, just go with the whole board. I didn’t notice at the time that one of those spots fell in line with a ferrule hole, so when I drilled the L-hook hole, it broke through. I view pegboard as an interrem storage solution until I gain the skills needed to craft fine tool cabinets.

I have hammered them with my small deadblow hammer and now the mallet that I built and the handles have stood up nicely to it. The brad bits are used to drill hole on the wood whether it is the hard woods or the soft woods with stability.
I also wanted to de-clutter my work space, thus making it a more enticing place to put steel to wood.
That was followed by the #7 to flatten the surface and a #4 to smooth out the track marks the #7 left. I purposefully started too thick and slowly adjusted the fence to dial in the proper, not-to-tight fit. So I used my Stanley #78 rabbet plane to trim a bit of wood where the slides affix to the drawer side.
I’ve never made drawers with slides, but is the fact that you have to lift them up to get them out, the reason why the false fronts are often taller than the sides? This was my first drawer job ever, so I was tackling a bunch of firsts and missed that detail. While the metal circular shelf might be great for metal working, it’s crap for delivering the precision us woodworkers require.
That got me to thinking…and researching…and seeing how other lathe-less chaps had sidestepped the no turned handle issue. This process looked a whole lot easier than cutting a mortise out of a solid piece of wood.
Because this tool will have to deliver a lot of jarring blows, I wanted to eliminate any gaps between the pieces that the wood glue would have to compensate for. I have some strength issues in my hands, so I took an old leather belt and weave it on the handle for a better grip. The original plans call for ebonizing them but I selected dark, contrasting, non-ebonized woods instead. Everything I could think of either wouldn’t work with a cutting board, or was way too tedious and time consuming. I wanted to stop the railing on the side facing the fire pit and put a straight section of bench there.. I used all hot dipped galvanized washers and lag screws driven in and countersunk from the front.
Then I placed a small metal winged clip into each slot and screwed it to the joist with a square drive screw that is provided with the fastener. Overall I am really pleased with how it came out, and although expensive I am extremely pleased with the composite decking. Instead, I had to pull the box from a shelf, open it, pull out a chisel, use it, replace it in the box, close the cover and put it back on its shelf.
I’m picking up different makers and styles (firmer versus bevel for example) to get a sense for them and what I prefer. So, when you want to drill holes on the woods you can use this type of drill bits so that you can get the best result.
Or hats?..Did you post negative comments on the other project posts where people did American flag cutting boards, or is it just mine? Once I figured out what I wanted dimension wise I did a model of my house and the decks in SU so I could play around with different railings and materials. Using the scale tool I manipulated the size of the jpg, measuring a straight section of the railing till it matched the scale of the drawing.
I looked into material choices and decided not to go with wood, but to use a composite material.
When I walked into the building department to get my permit within 5 minutes, I had three of the inspectors and a few of the engineers looking at my drawings.
This was the first time I’ve used the plane trio in this way and I was amazed at how well they did.
And many, many of them have been beat all to hell, sporting missing chunks or chipped handles. I agree with your opinion on ebonizing maple, that’s why I used poplar for the end pieces and india ink for the dye. I thought I would share the design process with you guys as well as the construction… so here are some of my conceptual renderings to work out some design details. I liked the idea that it wouldn’t split or crack, and it was almost maintenance free. It came with groves milled in the edges so you could use there hidden fastener system so there would be no screw penetrations.
The design, which is twist, can make the result more accurate than using standard drill.You can easily track the point where you want to drill and it will not easily stray from the path that has been set.
This was great since it enabled me to see EXACTLY what the railings would look like in my mock ups.. I spent more time chatting with the guys about rendering and Sketchup than I did talking about my project!
The clips automatically space each deck board perfectly from each other so you get a real neat and clean look. Oh well, learn as you go..the friend I made it for loves it so thats all that matters in the end!
It is not suitable for the woods that are too weak to handle the pressure that the drill will make. You can use the machines that have enough power to drill the hard woods because some of the drill machine cannot handle such thing.The disadvantages of the Brad point drill bits are many, but one of them is the difficulty to sharpen the tip of the point drill if it is become dull.
After they were poured I followed that with two yards of crushed stone over weed block fabrick.
The upper deck had 13 joists so thats 13 fasteners per row, and I think it was something like 42 rows…so do the math!
Your grip must be able to squeeze hard enough to handle the power of the machine and that is if you use a hand drill machines. Never having framed anything before, I enlisted the help of a framer I met in AutoCAD school. You can see I had received my railings and post covers and I was trying them out for looks as I was working. So, just like I said before that this type of drill point can be easily torn and become dull if it is used often unlike the others point drill.
I helped him with AutoCAD and showed him how to draw in 3D and he helped me frame the substructure. If you want to buy the Brad point drill bits, you can head out to the hardware stores near your place. When all the deck boards were done I plugged the holes in the first and last rows so there are no screw holes showing anywhere. If you do not have the time or you are very busy, you can search the drill point on the internet.

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