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HANNOVER  - At LIGNA 2015 Scm Group will have four stands, in four halls, spread over 4,000 square metres, to demonstrate the ability to express its specialisation in every aspect of working and finishing wood and its derivatives. There are a wealth of new features on the furniture machining centres (“Morbidelli P800”, “Morbidelli Powerflex S”, “Morbidelli Cyflex hp”), as well as a giant step forward in terms of software which will be explained in a dedicated area. An example of what “digital production” means, that is to say, integrating advanced machinery and data with optimal management. The project, called “I Feel Wood” , starts with a style icon, a symbol of Italian design, and shows how manual skill, creativity – with the aid of machinery – can express ideas and emotions that have great value. A sign of “real innovation”The group is presenting a huge number of new features in Hanover.
Gabbiani Mahros Morbidelli will show the “batch one” panel sizing cell, for obtaining any type of cut in “real time”, thanks to intelligent management of the automatic store based on increasingly advanced software and ever more automation. In “Ron Herman’s Joinery Challenge,” Ron discusses, lays out and cuts different half-lap joints, including a dovetailed half-lap. The  joinery wasn’t new for me, but there were a few things tossed about that opened my eyes. Glen Huey is a former managing editor of Popular Woodworking Magazine, a period furniture maker and author of numerous woodworking books, videos and magazine articles. Thanks for sharing the tip about folding rules–can’t wait to get home and look at mine and figure out what I have, since as of this moment I am unsure!
Christopher Schwarz has helped many of us solve some pretty frustrating problems over the years.
Over the weekend, I repaired a drawer from an antique valet that’s been on my dresser for 15 years.
A few weeks back I was on an organizing jag and sorted through all the stuff that gets dumped in such places: extra pocket knives, shirt buttons, coins from foreign countries, old eyeglasses etc. The first problem I noticed was the long split in the drawer side where the groove for the drawer bottom was located.
Steve Shanesy is the former publisher (and former editor and senior editor) of Popular Woodworking Magazine. I had to rebuild an heirloom family dresser a few years back and some of the drawers had a similar problem. No one has commented so far, but there’s still a knob to be replaced on the right side of the upright where the mirror pivots. I just refurbished an old desk that was given to me by someone who was going to discard it.
After five minutes of examining it, I knew it was a very well made piece and definitely deserved another shot at usefulness. That old valet would probably have gone a long time more the way it was, but now you’ve given it new life the way it was meant to be, the more you can enjoy it. One of the cooler things is the small secret that you have knowing how well it was repaired.
When I talk to woodworkers about drawers, particularly dovetail joinery, I mention the transition that occurs as we moved from one furniture period to the next. During the Chippendale period, without new joinery methods on which to concentrate, woodworkers focused more on details. Today we have little new joinery and even less in new designs, so we continue to focus on details. This focusing of attention is what causes me to wonder about woodworking as a whole.  Are we so tied up in the details – in trying to get everything correct and perfect before we move on – that we’re no longer getting projects built? And lets not talk about design, rarely do magazines stray from that arts and crafts, Greene & Greene, or some period reproduction.
I realize that the survival of the magazine is by increasing readership and attracting new woodworkers, thus the never ending repetition of the same things, but would it kill you to try something new or a new design and then publish how you went about it?
And if all you want to do is make something, then save the money you will spend on tools and materials, and buy it. Which is to say: When you look at most campaign chests, it’s unclear how they were constructed. After you examine a couple hundred of these chests, patterns begin to emerge and their construction becomes evident. I grew up with campaign chests owned by my grandparents where the carcases were assembled with half-blind, sometimes called half-lap, dovetails. Either arrangement of this visible dovetail joint exists, but it is somewhat uncommon in campaign furniture in my experience. For details on this joint, see Glen Huey’s article on the desk in the November 2011 issue of Popular Woodworking Magazine – that explains it.
Before you scoff at this joint, let me tell you a little secret: Most people say that through-dovetails are easier than half-blind or full-blind dovetails. The more surfaces you hide, the less persnickety you have to be to achieve dovetail awesomeness. Chris is a contributing editor to Popular Woodworking Magazine and the publisher at Lost Art Press.
Question, how do you layout either the pins or the tails for a double blind dovetail without a jig?
It appears from the Sketchup pics that the pins are on the sides of the case and the tail on the top and bottom.
Using modern glues that produce a joint that is stronger than the surrounding wood (in long grain joints), the strength of the joint is primarily a function of the total long grain glue surfaces. If full-blind dovetails are stronger and easier to cut than half-blinds, then why weren’t all of the joints done with full-bllinds? I think that half-blinds are easier to cut then through-dovetails, but I know not everyone agrees with me.
Frankly, these sorts of projects are a great opportunity for chickens like me to start using dovetails.
Most Asian furniture is joined in such a way as to hide and bury end grain, leading to more use of full-blind dovetails than in western furniture styles. Frank Klausz and other European woodworkers say that pins and tails that are equal in width are the strongest.

Like any joint, and this goes back to Moxon, the joiner must consider the material and the dimensions to equalize the strength between the two members of a joint. When you decide to clean out a workshop cabinet, clear the underside of your workbench, or rearrange a tool cabinet, things can get quite a bit messier before they get better. When I first started teaching other woodworkers to use the principles of Sort, Set in Order, and the rest of 5S to make their shops more fun and efficient, I struggled to find the words to describe this phenomenon.
Not having to look for things, not losing things, not “making do” with the wrong tool when the right tool is misplaced or hidden away… these are key goals and benefits of 5S implementation and shop organization. So when you start to clean, sort, or set your shop in order and things start to look worse than they did before… the explody stage… rather than get discouraged, push on through and get the job done. Keep in mind that if you have reached the explody stage it means you are more than halfway through! Visualize the end result – a cleaner more efficient shop, saving money, saving time – whatever motivates you. Focus on the good stuff you have found and don’t obsess over the tube of hardened epoxy or the can of dried up finish.
Pretty soon you may look forward to the explody stage of cleaning and sorting and the progress it represents. Steve Johnson is a full time life-long hobbyist woodworker committed to helping new and experienced woodworkers achieve the “shop of their dreams” – even if (especially if?) they don’t have a dream budget to work with. Steve is a retired businessman, and in his career relocated many times… He has had shops in basements, one- and two-car garages, barns, outbuildings, and once in the back of a semi-trailer.
In 2005 I had the good fortune to spend a couple days with Norm Abram at his New Yankee Workshop building one of the program’s most popular projects – an Adirondack chair. For any woodworking project, proper material selection, not just wood but all the materials that go into it, is one key to it’s success and longevity.
I also built mine from cedar about 10 years ago and the softer wood is making for wobbly joints. I have been thinking to remake them in cypress, when the paint build up on the old chairs isn’t manageable any more. With my sawhorses ready and waiting, the plan clear in my mind and hardware in place, it’s time to start progressing the workbench project. While the quality of lumberyard lumber has dropped, significantly, since I started woodworking, it remains it can be used for a variety of projects.
I started using 2x’s for things like unique, custom picture frames over forty years ago. I never could understand why even fine furniture builders did not seal the insides of cabinets and drawers. Later on, I even applied non-hardening oils to things like wide, thin drawer bottoms, before sealing with poly. Lately, I’ve been quite impressed with the construction grade lumber at the local yards and the depot.
The focus will be on many subjects, technologi es revealing the group’s many strengths: from “Smart Manufacturing Cells” (systems made up of integrated cells, two for furniture production, one for door and window frames) to a real revolution in edgebanding technologies, in the “Stefani Edgebanding Hub” . Here, using demos and multimedia tools, we will present fifteen specific applications, demonstrating how working with high - tech tools can be easy and effective! Acknowledging the artisan sector, small businesses and their infin ite potential, to which Scm Group has always contributed. In hall 25 Morbidelli machining centres will a display impeccable routing - edgebanding, pl us the possibility of achieving ultra - fast boring processes even on medium - small batches. DMC is tasked with demonstrating how to obtain new trend - setting effects (gouged, sawn, structured) when sanding surfaces (also in hall 16). This past week, Monday was a day filled with learning – I spent the day with Ron Herman as he filmed the first of two new DVDs. There are bridle joints in the form of slip joints and a running tenon joint used in the exercise. As you fit the joints at the end, each has to be square and accurate or the four-quadrant divided design doesn’t go together.
The shims are used for a number of tasks such as setting up the depth of cut at a miter box. It’s a beautiful piece with a tilting mirror, curved front, bracket feet and three pretty drawers that are veneered with crotch mahogany then banded with what I suspect is holly. Then I noticed the same problem on the other drawer side, only the piece was gone altogether. Following his retirement, he is now a contributing editor, blogging about what he's doing in his own shop. A few coats of wax applied periodically to the bottom of the drawer side and to the drawer slide help slow down wear and make large drawers slide more easily. We use special layout tools to mark our dovetails, we use dividers to get each socket laid out just right and we stress over the smallest joint gaps – your dovetails best be tight and closed or others will notice. The lower case is joined entirely by half-blind dovetails in a way that the joinery is not evident when the two sections are stacked together. This rabbeted dovetail form gives immense strength, is easy to cut (really!) and the joint doesn’t show.
It’s pretty easy to visualize the problem… you start to sort things out – which to keep, which to toss, which to move to another place. When all that stuff crammed into cabinets and drawers comes out into the light, it does look like an explosion occurred. Now with a permanent shop and a little more shop time, he produces articles and videos to share his knowledge and experiences with other woodworkers.
Norm and I each built a chair from a plan he developed that was based on a chair his father built years before.
The chair, which is remarkably comfortable, has been in continuous use since then and always been kept outdoors.
Most projects don’t have to stand up to the rigors outdoors use, but you must still choose wisely to attain the objectives you set out to achieve.
Well over the years just about every board has been replaced and a new coat of paint every two to three years.

My mind is not fully made up yet…although my motivation for this project is making a robust and practical workbench that is very affordable so I could not help but review this option.
Though I lived in the Pacific Northwet, the yard I frequented had covered storage areas, which made a night and day difference in the moisture content of the wood.
Stefani will reveal, amongst other things, what “top quality” really means in extremely high productivity edgebanding processes with a profoundly updated range and the addition of “hot air” edgebanding technology.
The project for the day was a joinery exercise that walks through nine joints; one is a pocket hole joint and the other eight involve hand tools.
Also, you cannot depend on glue to hold things tight – it has to be held by the joinery.
The shims are used for many tasks around the shop, but what makes these  cool is found in the lengths.
What is pertinent to the joinery challenge, is how Ron used a shim to align the pocket screw joint, a real timesaver. On the other side, the one with the missing bottom edge, I planed the edge square and made a new piece to glue on in its place.
You’ll also find examples with the reverse arrangement – tails on the sides and pins on the tops and bottom. As I’ve been designing and cutting the joints for my own version of a campaign secretary, I’ve marveled at how these hidden joints are much easier to make than through-dovetails. Through-dovetails have lots more surfaces that show – both at the baselines and along the joint’s cheeks. They were both big fans of Chinese and Japanese furniture – and 18th-century American furniture.
She emphasized the importance of not getting discouraged at this point in the process and to keep sorting. And as this student pointed out, there is a reward to doggedly pushing through and getting past the explody stage. It didn’t get much use during our mid-western winters, but it was nevertheless kept outside. In fact, I predicted in my closing comment for the article that in 10 years it would turn completely gray, just like my hair. BORGs, I can work with what they stock and I can call in after work during the week or at the weekend. I try to have fun, and fun for me does not include trying to take rough stock to planed without a workbench. Most of the construction lumber in this area is Fir, though at times you will find spruce or pine.
In fact, you should be able to, after all the work is complete, toss the project to another woodworker without it falling apart in mid-air or as it’s caught. That is my question for the shims what is their use as it looks like the rules you have pictured have the sliding rule as well? I had recently tested a steam generator made by Earlex for use with a steam box for bending wood. I had to make a couple passes with the plane to fit the width and there was that distinctive smell.
Turning a new one is no big deal, but getting the finish right, especially the patina, is the challenge. You can, in some of the furniture from this period, find examples of dovetails with pins barely wide enough for a saw blade to pass. And some of the examples are liars – there are nails driven through the tops and sides of these beauties.
But one practical reason is that wood movement from moisture is minimized if end grain is hidden, and many areas of Asia experience quite large humidity swings throughout the year, and their houses were often much more exposed to the outside air compared to the western world. She estimates that the time-savings alone from her new-found 5S shop organization will be the equivalent of an additional two weeks per year of productive shop time. I say that after enviously looking on at Jay Bates collecting long, wide, planed and untreated Southern Yellow Pine for his workbench project.
Running my eye over the timber in the store, I was reasonably pleased with how straight it was, and how clean the surface finish was. Cost can be a very important factor (it is to me), we’re all in different situations and I’d never look down on someone managing a budget and using humble materials, most of my projects are scrap from work or cheaper end stuff. That way if you have the shims laid out on your bench, you can more easily find the thickness you need. I fired up the steamer, then used the hose end to carefully spray steam at the glue, being very careful to keep any steam away from the veneered and finished front. On one long edge, I made a rabbet that, when glued to the original side, would form a new groove for the drawer bottom.
The chair is mostly screwed and bolted together, but adhesive was used where it would be useful. Even working gingerly, it took only a couple minutes before the glue softened and the bottom was free. After the glue set, I slipped the drawer bottom in place and nailed two tiny brads through the bottom and into the drawer back. Norm used 3M Marine Adhesive 5200, but because my chair was shipped back to Ohio for later assembly, I used Titebond III  after it arrived. Thank goodness the person doing the previous repair did a lousy job in gluing the front bottom edge into the drawer front groove. A cabinet rule (Lufkin X46F), when flipped to read the second side, also begins at zero and moves toward 1″.
However, a layout rule (Lufkin X46), when flipped to the back side, is backward in that it begins at the 72″ mark and moves downward.

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