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04.01.2014
Ia€™d had tortelloni di zucca before, but never in a restaurant that served only wines from Emilia Romagna. Weeks later, I sat down with Via Emiliaa€™s chef and owner, William Mattielo, for a crash course on Lambrusco.
Tasting through his list, Ia€™m struck by the variety of styles, ranging from Belleia€™s Lambrusco di Sorbara Brut, a dry, pale strawberry sparkler, to Vittorio Grazianoa€™s Lambrusco di Castelvetro, whose earthy funkiness has me positively smitten.
To understand Lambrusco, know this: Ita€™s an ancient grape that evolved into three subvarieties, each confined to a specific territory. While sorbaraa€™s strength lies in its elegance and minerality, grasparossa is all about fresh, dark fruit. Down the hill is Corte Manzini, another quality winery run by an extended family of parents, siblings, and cousins.
A A A  Ia€™d had tortelloni di zucca before, but never in a restaurant that served only wines from Emilia Romagna. A A A  Weeks later, I sat down with Via Emiliaa€™s chef and owner, William Mattielo, for a crash course on Lambrusco.
A A A  Tasting through his list, Ia€™m struck by the variety of styles, ranging from Belleia€™s Lambrusco di Sorbara Brut, a dry, pale strawberry sparkler, to Vittorio Grazianoa€™s Lambrusco di Castelvetro, whose earthy funkiness has me positively smitten. A A A  To understand Lambrusco, know this: Ita€™s an ancient grape that evolved into three subvarieties, each confined to a specific territory. A A A  While sorbaraa€™s strength lies in its elegance and minerality, grasparossa is all about fresh, dark fruit. A A A  Down the hill is Corte Manzini, another quality winery run by an extended family of parents, siblings, and cousins. It happened at Via Emilia, a New York restaurant named after the ancient Roman road running from Rimini to Piacenza.


The blurb said a€?rich, ripe, full-flavored dark fruits.a€? In the glass, it was deep violet and pretty as a jewel. To my left are the snow-capped Apennines, cutting through Emilia Romagna like a serrated knife.
The chef had advised me, a€?If you want to look good and show off to your friends, you say, a€?Let me have a Bellei.a€™a€? The reason why is evident as soon as I step into the winery. Here the flagship is also a dry crua€”La€™Acinoa€”made from old grasparossa vines planted in 1966.
I equated this fizzy, slightly sweet red wine from Emilia Romagna with soda popa€”nice on ice, as the Riunite jingle goes.
Specializing in Emilia Romagnaa€™s comfort food, the place offers deep-layered lasagna, puffy fritters folded around cured meats, tortellini swimming in fragrant chicken broth. Its aroma was appealingly grapey, like a backyard trellis brimming with ripe concord grapes.
But the boutique wineries on his lista€”Ariola, Balugani, Barbolini, Bellei, Cavicchioli, Graziano, Manicardi, Saetti, Vezzelli, and Villabonia€”are all family-run properties where quality comes first. To my right, the land flattens out into a plain that stretches to the Adriatic, a checkerboard of vineyards and orchards.
Ita€™s filled with riddling racks, one phase in the laborious champagne-style carbonation process, here called metodo classico, whereby secondary fermentation occurs in the bottle.
The Manzinis recognize the specialness of these vines and are propagating clones for their new vineyards.
My perennial favorite, though, was tortelloni di zucca: pasta filled with nutmeg-scented pumpkin. Descriptors ranged from a€?light, florala€? to a€?muscular, dry, dark.a€? The wine could be sparkling or frizzante, dry or semi-dry, and from various DOC zones around Modena and Parma.


In the mouth, the residual sugar was barely detectable, just enough to complement the pumpkina€™s subtle sweetness.
My plan is to visit Lambruscoa€™s two best zonesa€”Sorbara on the flatland, and Castelvetro in the foothillsa€”to delve into their contrasting styles. When everyone else was modernizing with pressured autoclaves, Bellei was the first winery to adapt the metodo classico for Lambrusco, thus achieving more finesse in the bubbles while getting rid of sedimentation. Further inland dwells the darker, more tannic, salami-shaped lambrusco salamino, while up in the foothills one finds lambrusco grasparossa (a€?red stalksa€?), the most intensely colored, full-throttled version. The grapes in the sunnier exposures have more perfume, more prestige.a€? She and her sister, Raffaella, run the Manicardi winery, founded by their father. At Via Emilia it achieves perfection, a ying-yang of sweet pumpkin spice and savory sage and butter sauce. Like many Lambrusco producers, they make dry, amabile, and rosato versions (as well as the regiona€™s other famous product, Aceto Balsamic Tradizionale di Modena). Since 2000, Corte Manzini has been racking up national awards, even outscoring prestigious contestants like Amarone. Dry, dark, and intense, this is a perfect accompaniment to Bolognese-sauced pastas or roasted meats. In 2004, La€™Acino won its first Due Bicchieri (Two Glasses) from Gambero Rosso, Italya€™s most important wine competition. As with any Lambrusco, ita€™s best drunk younga€”within a year of its vintage, before its fruity perfumes disappear.



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