More than anything, the basic oil change is a great way to connect with your vehicle and take some control over its maintenance.
Before heading to the auto parts store to buy supplies, consult the owner's manual to confirm the type and amount of oil that's required.
Check to see if the manual calls out other specific oil requirements as defined by the by the American Petroleum Institute (API) and the International Lubricant Standardization Approval Committee (ILSAC.) Sometimes synthetic oil is expressly called for.
In addition to oil, you'll need an oil filter, an oil-filter removal wrench, a wrench to remove the drain plug, a funnel, a drain pan and some gloves. Band-type filter wrenches are more familiar, but they can be frustrating to use if you don't have enough space — especially if the old filter was over-tightened. In this case, the plug and filter are far apart, meaning I must reposition the drain pan after I drain the oil and before I remove the filter. If yours is one of the growing numbers of new cars with a top-mount cartridge filter, the following oil-drain and refill steps are the same, but the filter change process is not.
Go slowly as you remove the drain plug and keep your hands away from the expected path of the oil. The drain plug is properly tightened if you use the box end of a combination wrench and tighten it as much as you can without using a hammer or slipping a pipe over the wrench for extra leverage. Use rags to clean as much oil away as you can, paying special attention to the filter sealing surface. After you reconfirm that the oil drain bolt and filter are both in place and properly tightened, it's time to add oil. The web's largest and most active community resource for Nissan and Infiniti owners and enthusiasts. TownCivilian - All of my bolts were the same length as well so I don't think you will have an issue.
740fizza wrote:TownCivilian - All of my bolts were the same length as well so I don't think you will have an issue. Did you guys see the posts about people changing or cleaning there MAF sensors and it changed how the QX was shifting?
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I used some gasket sealant to help the gasket stay in place while buttoning it back up, but it probably didn't really help much. I've got no leaks despite the overtightening - is it worth my time to go and retorque them to something like 13 ft lbs?
Today i changed my oil on my 1999 ford ranger 3.0l and figured i would share with all of you who may not know how. When thats finished draining replace the plug and locate your oil filter which is in a tight enough place where i couldnt even fit my camera but its pretty easy to see from under the truck. Once you've located the filter place the oil pan underneath it and remove it and your oil is drained.
Place your funnel in the oil filler neck and pour 4.5qts of oil in, put the cap back on, check your oil and your done!
The oil filter is the biggest pain in the ass to get to, took me like 3 hours to change because the filter was pretty much stuck on. Yeah the oil filter is in a really dumb spot I used a towel to wrap my arm in because the header is right in the way (found that out the hard way), and grip gloves and even after i unscrewed it i couldnt get the damn thing out.
I always end up taking 3 or 4 wrenches with me under the vehicle because I can never remember the size from car to car. I literally tried everything to get it out the first time, it ended up coming out looking nothing like an oil filter. Just making a running thread that I will update the front page with new information on the swap as it comes by me or if anybody posts it up. 034 Motor Mounts or Custom Mounts - 034 Mounts are direct to the chassis and do not have any vibration dampening so if you want a smoother ride then you will need to make a set.

Oil Dip Stick - If using the stock Mk3 dip stick you'll probably encounter problems with the mounting tab with a short runner. I've been using Maestro on a 1.8t for the last few weeks and it doe offer lots of adjustments once one figures out what each item does. It's a simple process that requires few tools, and it's a sure way to save some money while you avoid the hassle of sitting in a dull waiting room somewhere reading outdated magazines. The time you spend under the hood and under the car affords you an excellent opportunity to look around and see if anything else needs attention. You may also need to raise the car to gain access, in which case you'll need a floor jack and safety stands, or a pair of purpose-made steel ramps. Also, my drain pan has a screw-on lid and pour spout, which makes it easier to transport and recycle the old oil.
Wrenches like that are available at most auto parts stores for a few dollars and they snap onto the end of any common three-eighth-inch-drive ratchet.
Let the car sit so the exhaust system cools off some, but don't allow things to go stone cold. Some newer cars have these aerodynamic covers to improve fuel economy and keep things clean.
For this reason, I'm going to completely finish draining and replugging the engine before I work on the filter. It's important to place the drain pan under the drain plug — but not directly under it. You've held your thumb atop a drinking straw filled with water to keep it from running out, right?
The hex end on a typical drain plug is almost always a common size that comes in a standard tool assortment, but even the domestic carmakers tend to use metric in the 14-17mm range. Theoretically, there is a torque specification for drain plugs, but they're almost never published in the owner's manual. A standard-length three-eighth-inch drive ratchet will work if you choke up on it a bit, but anything longer or larger can lead you down the path of over-tightening.
Generally, oil filters are tightened no more than three-quarters of a turn to a full turn beyond the point where the O-ring first contacts the sealing surface. Run the engine for 30 seconds or so to circulate the new oil, then shut it down and check your work area underneath the car for leaks. Because I short-filled it slightly, it was no surprise that I had to add a little more oil. As for torque, I used the good ol' German "goood-en-tite' specs Thanks for that bit of info. But I wasn't sure if they changed the pan between 4x4 and 2wd tranny or not.Does that mean there are 2 types of gasket and filters out there? Not knowing the torque spec, I probably overtightened the pan bolts a little and the sides of the gasket squeezed out somewhat and the sealant is visible.
I also added recommendations for adding an in-line Magnefine transmission filter, as well as other fluid exchange options (a simple drain and fill, or cooler line fluid exchange) at the top of the post.
It didn't help that the last time the oil was changed, they didn't lube the seal so it was stuck on. Gave in and I ordered a brand new oil pan from Automation place that I linked in the first post. Five-quart jugs are tempting because they are cheaper than smaller sizes, but I find them heavy and hard to pour steadily. If I had read the manual carelessly, though, I could easily have brought home 5W-20 instead. There are many sizes, but it's easy to make sure you buy the right one if you match the wrench to the filter right there in the store.
Oftentimes you don't need to remove tires, but I did it anyway so our photographer, Elon Schoenholz, could have a clear view of things.

If these elements were closer (or if my pan were bigger) I could begin removing the filter while the last of the oil was still dribbling out. The angle of the drain plug will cause the oil to stream out at an angle, so I'm offsetting the pan to that side by several inches.
It's not quite the same here, because oil would still drain with the oil filler cap on, but it does seem to flow out more smoothly and quickly with the cap removed. A three-eighth-inch drive ratchet is perfectly fine, of course, as long as you remind yourself not to use its extra leverage to over-tighten the drain plug when you put it back later. Even if you do find the spec, it's unlikely that the half-inch drive torque wrench you bought to tighten lug nuts will go low enough for this job.
This rarely happens nowadays, but it's one of those things you check anyway because a double stack of O-rings won't seal, allowing your new oil to pump out and ruin your engine. I'm spinning the filter on gently until the O-ring makes first contact with the sealing surface. You can go to a full turn if you can manage it by hand, but don't resort to a filter wrench just because you want to tighten it more than the recommended amount. As usual, you'll know the level is full when the oil comes up to the upper hole or hash mark. Once you've done an oil change a couple times and you are familiar with your car's idiosyncrasies, the whole job takes less than 30 minutes. I've got no leaks so far and the hard line I forgot to bracket back in is just fine, too.I also notice that the shift from 1st to 2nd is rather hard (but still seems to shift faster than before) sometimes, but I believe that's just how the car is from what I've read.
If nothing else, taking the cap off now serves as a reminder to put the new oil in before you start the engine. This is another reason why it's best not to change oil when the engine and its oil are piping hot.
If your drain plug does need a replacement washer, make sure the old one isn't stuck to the engine's oil pan — you don't want to inadvertently stack a new washer atop the old one.
In most cases you'll only need a filter wrench for tightening if access is too tight or if your hands are too oily for a solid grip.
If you stockpile oil and filters in your garage, you'll save both time and money compared to going to a mechanic.
I'll need to slide under my truck to see which gasket lining-patterns it follows.By the way - did anyone use gasket sealant or liquid gasket to the tranny to make sure no leaks? I did get stuck in the mud recently and I did put a lot of strain on the transmission - high revs in reverse and other gears.
And once you get comfortable with the basic oil change, a whole slew of other maintenance tasks begin to seem within easy reach.
After I get those plans from him I might have a few made up for us over here in the US in case anybody has access to European parts or people want to shop on for the parts. Nonetheless, $20 for some Valvoline Maxlife ATF from AAP after online discount is very cheap insurance! The Explorer does, but it's held in place with four twist-release clips that don't require any tools for removal. My PSF also smells a little burnt, and I did the turkey baster method using 3 pints of Genuine Nissan PSF (what a rip off) and for a while it smelled perfect.
I don't know how that could have become burnt so quickly either, but $9.78 for a gallon of Valvoline PSF (vs.

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