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admin | Natural Treatment Bacterial Vag | 28.10.2014
Answer   It is not recommened that you install a laminate in the basement, however, if you really want to, there are certain precautions that are absolutely necessary - t…hat is if you don't want to re-install another type of flooring shortly after the laminate.
The white crystalline deposits on a concrete surface is a result of moisture carrying internal chemistry of the concrete up and out to a surfaces where they react with the atmosphere. Moisture below the slab wicks up into the concrete seeking the lower humidity in a dehumidified home interior. Be sure to use at least a 6 mil polyethelene moisture barrier (plastic sheeting) and the plastice coated foam that the manufacturer of your laminate recommends. This moisture brings alkali and other chemicals out of the concrete interior with it.I can think of commercially available products to remove surface contaminates, just be certain they don't create other problems for you. I use a product designed specifically for Efflorescence Removal!The KEY is; after the surface is free of deposits, the slab needs a penetrating sealer applied to waterproof it and avoid future chemical and water vapor emissions from coming to the surface again. I use a Low VOC product for occupied spaces that penetrates into the capillary system of a concrete, where it forms a solid "Inside" the concrete to waterproof and keep moisture from migrating out to a surface.
Prior to laying the foam underlayment, especially in a basement, I'd test the concrete for moisture content. Moisture in quantity may also condense under a tile, floor coverings and carpet padding causing mold problems and delamination of a flooring product.
Then, if the moisture content is above the specific manufacturer's recommendation, you'll want to seal the concrete. The boards are not fixed in any way shape or form apart from to each other.They advise you to lay the boards in line with the incoming light,ie perpendicular to the window frame. Most important is that you leave a 10-20 mm gap at all perimeters to allow for movement and expansion.
Use a small crowbar (or hammer and chisel) to remove the existing shoe molding and rubber base under toe kick.
If the flooring has a preattached underlayment, you won't need to purchase one separately and it will save time on the installation. Note: Always start hardwood flooring along the most prominent and noticeable wall in the room. This way, if the room is out of square, the crooked cut will be hidden under the cabinet's toe kick. In order to keep the floor straight and square, start laying the laminate away from the wall since the wall may not be straight. Line up the first run of flooring with the chalk line and everything after should then line up. Use installation spacers to maintain this gap during installation, removing them before finishing the entire floor may allow the floor to move.
Use the miter saw to cut pieces to length and the jigsaw to cut around any corners or pipes. The height of the door(s) may need to be taken into account for the change in the height of the floor. The rubber base cuts with a utility knife and sticks to the toe kick using a peel-off adhesive or a spread adhesive. Install them in any doorway by cutting to fit and nailing, gluing down, or using the manufacturers 'snap track' if one is provided.


The installation site should have a consistent room temperature of 60-75° F and humidity of 35-55% for 14 days prior, during and until occupied, to allow for proper acclimation. Chip the concrete at least ?" deep (do not apply directly to the concrete surface) and apply several drops of the solution to the chipped area. Flooring should not be delivered until the building has been closed in with windows and doors in place and until cement work, plastering and all other "wet" work is completed and dry.
Roll out the plastic, overlapping the seam area 6 to 8 inches, and tape the seams with a clear plastic sealing tape. Planks should run lengthwise against the longest wall, and if possible, parallel to incoming sunlight. Measure across the room (inches)and divide by the width of a plank to see how many full width planks will be used and what sizewidth will be needed for the last row.
Use ?" spacers to maintain the proper expansion gap around the entire perimeter of the floor. IMPORTANT: this ?" gap must be maintained around cabinets, pipes, toilet flanges and any other obstacle in floor. To lock planks together, insert tongue into the groove at a slight angle, when top edges meet, rotate downward. This will give the proper amount of stagger to the end joints and thereby make your floor more secure. This 2 row rack can be built either directly against the start wall and the spacers, or away from the wall so that you can kneel on one row and pull the second row toward you. Connect plank 3 to plank 1 by inserting end tongue into end groove, keeping the edges perfectly aligned. Once the ends are connected, place a hand under the locked ends, raise the planks slightly upwards (1" -2" ).
This angle will now allow you to slide the tongue of plank 4 into the groove of plank 3 (the end joint will slide down into place without releasing) when top laminate edges meet, rotate both planks (4 and 2) downward. Continue to build these 2 rows until you reach the adjoining wall, leaving your ?" expansion space. When door molding or other obstruction won?t allow the needed space to rotate the plank downward, align tongue to groove and use pull bar to tap the tongue into the groove until top laminate edges meet. If you built these rows away from the starting wall, go ahead and push them into position now. Be sure to place ?" spacers at both ends of each row, and 2? intervals along the start wall. If the starting wall is uneven, you can scribe the contour of the wall onto the first row of planks. To disassemble, kneel on row 1 and carefully raise the edge of row 2 rotating upwards and removing planks in the opposite direction from which you installed them. Repeat the process of using random length start planks (minimum of 16" ) to ensure a more natural look.
Always stagger end joints a minimum of 12" ; make random so as not to show a repeating pattern.
Stop and reconnect if a joint is not tight or if all edges are not even with adjacent planks.


These planks can be engaged and disengaged several times if needed to help make a correct installation.
When cutting the last row, place a full row of planks directly on top of the last row installed planks (keeping the tongue in the same direction as the installed planks). Use the full width of scrap pieces of plank, insert a ?" spacer between wall and scrap piece of plank. Place a pencil next to the edge and trace a line down the planks following the contour of the wall.
If space won't allow the downward rotation, lay the plank flat to underlayment and use pull bar and hammer to tap into place, leaving no gaps. The use of Molding Track provides a fast, secure transition installation and minimizes the use of screws or nails through the decorative surface of the transition piece. T-Molding is used when two level flooring surfaces meet, like in a doorway or a narrow archway.
Install the Molding Track by gluing, screwing or nailing it ?" from the edge of the flooring. To finish the flooring in areas that meet vertical objects like exterior doors, sliding glass doors, tubs or shower basins, raised hearths or low sills, leave a 1" space between the floor and the vertical object. When transitioning from laminate flooring to carpet, leave a 1" space between the finished floor and the front edge of the carpet.
Note: In heavy traffic areas, use screw-type fasteners or nails to permanently secure the molding into the Molding Track.
The Stairnosing is used to finish stair treads and risers, which have been fully adhered to the floor using a Construction Polyurethane adhesive.
Install the Molding Track by gluing, screwing or nailing it ?" from the edge of the stair tread. Apply construction grade adhesive to the Stairnosing where the molding makes contact with the stair tread. You must use either screw-type fasteners or nails through the face of the Stairnose to permanently secure it to the track. Never allow nails or screws in the Wallbase or Quarter Round to enter into the laminate flooring or the expansion zone around the flooring perimeter, as it will prevent proper expansion and contraction of the flooring.
You must pre-drill nail holes in both types of wall moldings before nailing, to eliminate any splitting.
Be sure to nail the Quarter Round into the wall or Wallbase and not into the flooring as it will prevent expansion and contraction of the flooring.
Silicone sealant should be used in expansion zones in bathrooms, near kitchen sinks, dishwashers and refrigerators with icemakers.



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