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admin | Get Rid Of Bacterial Infection | 19.09.2015
In very rare cases low temperatures and poor tank maintenance has caused saprolegnia to be a primary infection. When a betta fish is injured or has any type of physical damage, the spores will feed on the dead tissue. Saprolegnia(pictured right) on the other hand will protrude from the surface giving a more localized and defined cotton ball look. PimaFix by API can be found at almost all pet stores and even a few corporate stores such as Wal-mart. If you are having trouble healing your betta because the infection is too far along for the pimafix to do the trick there is a stronger option. Angela Soup has been a fish enthusiast for over 6 years after becoming a certified pet specialist. As with any infection, it's very important to catch it early in order to treat it effectively. When dealing with such small animals, cameras can be invaluable diagnostic tools, both for examining the animal yourself and for sharing your findings with others.
If minor and uncomplicated (like the small patch in the picture above), maintain pristine water conditions and observe fish. If the infection is moderate to severe, or is worsening, you will need to medicate the fish. The difference between fin loss and fin rot are not always obvious but there is, indeed, a difference. Fin loss is caused by physical damage incurred by sharp tank decorations, snagged fins, or nipping from other fish. Fin rot is the result of a bacterial infection, which leaves the fins tattered, bloody or blackened.
The most common signs of fin rot are a rapid loss of fin tissue, bloody fin tips or blackened fin edges. If you suspect the fin rot is severe the betta may need your help to recover through use of medication and clean water.
Betta fin tissue can heal quickly and most mild to moderate spits or holes can heal themselves without use of any medications or tank additives. Christie F is a Betta splendens hobbyist that enjoys spending time caring for her fish and helping new betta keepers learn the ropes.
Well, for the 4th part of my betta series, I’m going to share with you the different type of betta diseases and how you can protect your betta fish from having them. When you want to care for extraordinary fish such as the Betta in your tank, you have to be ready for anything. Luckily, only a few diseases can be contagious to humans, but you still have to detect and treat the most common conditions. As you already know, certain type of betta fish have long fins, especially the males, a reason for their popularity; however, their fin makes them more susceptible to injuries. It is common in tanks holding both aggressive fish and Bettas since the other fish tend to bite the Betta’s fins. You can detect this disease easily because the fins and the tail of the fish will change color and will have missing pieces. To treat it, start by removing the injured or diseased fish to a separate tank from the healthy fish. ICK, or the white spot, is a parasite that can effect any fish in your tank including your betta.
Most of the time you will also notice a decrease in appetite and energy levels, as well as the tendency to scratch its body on decorations or plants.
Raise the temperature in the tank the fish has been moved into to 86 degrees Fahrenheit (30 C), but no higher or the fish will boil, and then add aquarium salt and medication. If your tank is not cleaned properly and the water does not have the right parameters, your betta can develop Popeye disease or exophthalmia.
Popeye disease causes swelling of one or both eyes, causing them to appear as if they will “pop out” and the outer surface of the eye may be cloudy or white.


Be cautious for other issues or diseases in fish with Popeye because a fish may often carry more than one disease.
Many people do not even know Betta fish can develop this disease and even when it is detected, it cannot be treated or cured.
Moreover, this is the only disease contagious to humans, so you should avoid putting your hand in the water if you have an open wound. The disease appears when your betta ingest contaminated food or dead fish that were contaminated with the disease. The signs can be confusing and include loss of appetite and lethargy, even if fed regularly.
Bacterial infections are very common in tanks in which there is too much ammonia in the water.
The first thing to do is test the water to ensure the ammonia levels are within the right parameters. Since the disease is contagious to other fish, you have to separate your sick betta and treat them in a separate tank. Betta who are sick will lose their appetite, spend a long time on the bottom of the tank, and lose their color. The treatment for bacterial infections is simple: perform a complete water change and remove any leftover food particles. Use an approved antibacterial solution in the tank and apply special solutions on the body of the fish.
When it comes to betta, it is always better to prevent a disease instead of struggling to treat it. Most betta have simple requirements and will never get sick as long as you make sure that the water is always clean and you avoid introducing live food from unknown sources.
A good filter and test kit is necessary to have a luxurious tank with healthy, active betta. Join 1,628 other Aquascapers and receive email updates and free stuff direct to your inbox. In simple terms, the swim bladder is a gas filled sac located in the betta’s body, posteriorly (toward the tail end). On some occasions Bettas won’t fully heal from their swim bladder disorder and may continue to experience problems righting itself. Often times it can be difficult for some to decipher the difference between a bacterial infection and a fungal infection. This is because it not only tolerates salt and heat but because it is always living in your tank. API also makes a product called Fungus Cure which is meant as a cure-all for fungal and secondary bacterial infections. Tending to her many freshwater tanks and betta bowls, she has spent extensive time researching Betta Splendens as well as freshwater tropical fish. Wanting to see what was going on, I got out the camera and took a picture to get a closer look. It is probably the number one most common betta ailment and chances are if you own bettas you will eventually deal with fin rot. It’s crucial that the betta not be exposed to any toxins while healing from the disease. It is prudent to keep your tank water clean when these minor injuries occur so as not to allow infections to develop.
Clicking our referral button above means a portion of your purchase will go toward our site. Feeding too much food or foods with a very low moisture content (Betta pellets) may cause pressure in the abdomen cutting off a Betta’s ability to regulate the gasses in the swim bladder. If you don’t find thatthe Betta is back to normal after a day or two of fasting it may be necessary to treat the fish for the infection using a wide spectrum antibiotic available at most local fish stores. As long as the fish is able to draw air from the surface and can still eat there is no reason that it can’t continue to live out a full life.


This occurs when bacteria evolve to make newer, stronger strains that cannot be combated by available antibiotics. This explains why you will not have to fear for this infection unless there is a prior problem to your betta’s health. The reason we distinguish between the two is because the treatment for each can be quite different. Upon speculation of fin rot you should immediately check your water parameters to determine the origin. New fin growth is very fragile and it’s not uncommon to have several relapses after healing begins. I recommend Mardel’s Maracyn-Two [Minocycline] or if quite severe you may want to use Kanacyn [Kanamiacyn] or an equivalent wide spectrum antibiotic.
These medications are mostly antiseptics and may help fin regeneration after the bacterial infection has cleared but will do little to help initially. Because betta fins are so fragile, they easily snag on plastic plants or sharp rocks or driftwood. The swim bladder works very similarly to a SCUBA diver’s BCD (buoyancy control device). Because antibiotics can cause additional stress to fish, it is recommended to only use them if an infection is strongly suspected.
To avoid creating tougher strains of bacteria be sure to carefully follow the directions on the medicine package and to never stop or change medications part way through treatment unless your betta is having a dangerous reaction to them. If the cause is not known or is secondary to a bacterial infection we can begin treatment on the mold itself.
It is enhanced when used with MelaFix(or BettaFix it’s diluted version) to battle out external and internal infections.
It can be caused by elevated nitrate levels in cycled tanks and may be caused by fluctuating temperatures and pH levels as well. As mentioned before, all the antibiotics in the world won’t cure your betta if the cause is not corrected. If you notice a fish nipping your betta you should remove the fish or the bettas as soon as possible because nipped fins can become infected and treatment could become more complicated. When a diver wants to be more buoyant, he fills his vest with air and releases air when he wants to descend. Other signs of infection include lethargy, color loss, loss of appetite, redness under the scales (septicemia) and other secondary infections. You can make your Betta more comfortable by keeping him in a tank away from fin nipping fish or fast swimming fish that may agitate him. As with any disease, remove your sick fish from the community tank and isolate him for treatment in a hospital tank. This is an issue because one packet treats 10 gallons so you’ll need to find a good method of measurement that works for you.
Essentially, these toxins or fluctuations stress the betta, weakening his immune system, leaving him susceptible to bacterial infections. Adding some floating plants or other decor may help him rest near the surface when he wishes. The ammonia and nitrite levels should be at 0 ppm [parts per million] and nitrate should be under 20 ppm, maximum. The pH levels and water temperature should be stable with little or no fluctuation from the days before.
Remember, toxins like ammonia and nitrite become exponentially more significant in alkaline water [pH above 7.0] and thus much more dangerous and likely to stress your betta.
Often plastic plants will cause fin loss so you may find better luck with silk or most live plants instead.



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