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Unfortunately my netgear is not working properly and so rather than buy a new one I am considering using the one supplied by virgin, dlink dir-615. Connect the router to the modem and reboot the modem and switch the router on once all the lights go stable then you wait for the lights all to turn green on the router then you look for a D Link network which is unsecured and you then connect to it wirelessly. At the top we have Wi-Fi Protected Setup also known as WCN2, remove the Enable Pin tick and then go the Wireless Network Settings section and go to the box with the SSID which by default will be dlink and change it to one of your own choice. I replaced a Netgear with the DLink, and it is much better for web access and hardly ever freezes, the Netgear used to freeze many times a day, however I have never been able to get my wireless printer to work with the Dlink, so am about to replace with a newer Netgear, wireless is a bloody black art!! The introduction of the microprocessor, a single chip with all the circuitry that formerly occupied large cabinets, led to the proliferation of personal computers after 1975. So, with all my new-found knowledge of neck building, I began the process of creating a second neck.
With this neck, I wanted to address the following issues I ran into when creating the last neck. First, having not been through the process previously I didn't have my neck blank marked optimally.
Obviously, from the tuning machine clearance standpoint I'm going to have to re-design my headstock to give more room. Not really a "neck" issue, but related: the neck pocket I routed in the body was not straight. Seeing as the neck to body join is the most important join on the guitar, and seeing as the join turned out pretty sloppy on the last neck, I'm going to cut the tenon early in the process this time. I really didn't like how many challenges I ran into when doing the scarf joint on the other neck. I'm going to triple-check the router guide screws before trying to cut the trussrod channel on this neck. As mentioned above, I wanted to start by cutting the tenon on the blank right away, so that I could make sure that this join is exactly the way I want it. With the jig ready, I mounted it on my body with double-stick tape, and used the pattern cutting bit to plow out the new neck pocket. Then I returned the band saw table to flat, tilted my miter gauge to 2 degrees and cut the bottom shoulder of the neck tenon, to join the two shoulders cut in the side. I would use the jig I built to do the final width and length dimensions of the tenon, but to save wear and tear on the router I sawed off some of the waste.
As mentioned above, I am trying a different approach with this neck versus what I did with the other neck. Along with that cut, I wanted a good flat area at the bottom of the angle where I could graft on the top piece. On the last neck, I smoothed the scarf joint angle by hand-rubbing it on sandpaper on my work table.
I'm happy to report that this worked very well, and was way easier than the manual method I used on the last neck. If you missed how we got to this point, you can go back to the first attempt at building the neck. China Auto Tool Changing wood cnc router machine(M25), View cnc router machine, Super star Product Details from Jinan Jinshengxing Machinery Manufacture Co., Ltd. I am still debating swapping my netgear for the dlink but not sure whether to go with it or not.
For computers generally referred to as PCs, see IBM Personal Computer and IBM PC compatible. I already had the neck blank created, albeit a slightly different version using mostly mahogany with maple veneers. Rather than cutting the new tenon to address the crooked neck pocket, I want to try and address this properly from the body end.
I'm going to rearrange the order to try and overcome some of the obstacles I ran into with the order I used in the last neck.


This will allow me to start over with (yet) another neck blank if this join goes south again.
While I like the strength this gave the neck (less angle = more strength), I found it to be a little shallow. Frankly, I wasn't happy with the accuracy I got on that cut, as there were too many variables to try and control.
Also, changing the order of assembly should help me avoid running into the overhanging headstock when routing this channel. I decided to mark them all ahead of time, rather than marking each step as I go like I did with the last neck. If you look closely in the picture prior to routing, you can see the slightly crooked shoulder that was giving me fits with the last neck. I discovered on the last neck that it was difficult to accurately round off the sides on a tenon with a 2 degree angle, so I decided instead to square up the mortise on the guitar blank. No filler will be needed here; once the glue is added to the joint is should be good and tight. Actually, this joint is probably trickier to make than the body-join tenon, but slightly less critical.
I already had all of my cut lines laid out from when I first was marking the neck above, so I just had to follow the lines. I was a little nervous about this cut, as it had to be pretty accurate, and my bandsaw skills are still in the infant stage. In addition, because by hand sanding I would repeatedly pick up the neck and set it down, the chance for error was much greater.
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The mahagony in this neck didn't match the mahogany in the body (darker) but I'm hoping that once the piece is finished it will even out, color-wise.
I had concerns with there not being enough string break angle to prevent buzzing over the nut (the main reason headstocks have an angle.) Also, the truss-rod adjusting hole was going to come out fairly high on the headstock. Many luthiers make this cut on the band saw, so I believe I'm going to try that the second time around, although to roughness of the bandsaw cut may mean I have to spend more sanding time. This (hopefully) would allow me to take into consideration how all the different design elements interact, rather than having to react to them at each step. On the last neck I had used my dovetail saw, and discovered that my accuracy with a hand saw isn't that good. The shoulders are much closer and the minor gaps are small enough to be filled by the glue when attaching the tenon.
I say slightly because while this joint doesn't have near the effect on tone if it's sloppy, it does have quite the effect on the sturdiness of the headstock if the guitar falls over.
I started by bandsawing in along the top of the blank, until I reached my scarf joint line. Instead, I just did a stop cut on the table saw, which should give me a nice flat area to glue.
Seeing as the cut on this neck was even rougher, I had no interest in repeating that process.
With the belt sander I just laid the piece down on the belt, held it flat across the joint, and let the sander do the work.
I have right handed 5 start ACMEscrews on the X and Y axis and currently a right hand single start ACMEscrew on the Z axis. Moving this new neck's headstock angle to 12 degrees should help address both of these issues. I think (hope, pray) I can get a more accurate cut using this method, as no math should be involved in determining the angle, which in all reality I was probably off when doing the last neck. On a normal 3 on a side headstock where the strings break at an angle after the nut, the tuning machines don't have to be as far from each other.


I took a picture of the marked neck blank, but it's difficult to see the pencil markings on the dark wood. Obviously, by using that method I was able to create a jig that looked straight to the eye, but wasn't when measured with a caliper. For some reason in the picture it looks like I took chunks out of the top corners of the mortise. To allow the router some support in which to ride, I used a pocket screw to attach this template to a larger piece of MDF, then created two "wings" on either side to aid in supporting the router. The headstock is the most common place for a neck to break, so you want to make sure this area is as strong as possible.
This piece, once removed, will become the top portion of the headstock after it's rotated and glued on. Once the cut was complete, I was happy to see that it was much more accurate than the one I did on the last neck, albeit rougher because I used the band saw instead of the table saw. I do have plans and the parts to replace the singlestart ACME screw with a 5 start ACME screw on the z axis.Thanks for checking out our blog. However, I wanted to taper my headstock to give a straight string pull over the nut (better tuning stability) so this is why I ran into clearance problems with the first headstock. If I posted the picture, it would actually just be a side view of the neck blank, and you have better things to do than look at that. Just to clarify that I'm not a complete monkey with a chisel (just a partial one) there isn't any actual chipout on the real workpiece. By tilting the table 2 degrees in either direction, and using the miter gauge on the band saw, I was able to cut each shoulder. I thought it would be easier to make this cut prior to the main scarf joint cut, as I would have a lot more wood to hold on to, and wouldn't be forced to get my hands uncomfortably close to the blade.
You can (barely) see in the photo how I used clear packing tape to temporarily join the two pieces that will make up the scarf joint.
More or less, I kept the original shape of the headstock, but stretched it by about an inch and a half.
Actually, at times it's difficult to see the pencil marks in the dark wood when you're staring at the actual work piece! Although Phil Keaggy can play guitar with only four fingers on one hand, I don't want to prove that I have that ability as well.
I can then use the sander to sand the cut smooth and (hopefully) wind up with the exact same angle across both pieces. Advanced Taiwan LNC control system, intelligent processing cross-border protection: to prevent mechanical collision phenomenon caused by layout's crossing the processing table. In the following picture, the original headstock design is on the left, and the new one is on the right. I raised up the blade and used my square to ensure it was exactly 90 degrees, then cut the jig.
I also made sure to mark the centerline accurately so that when I align it on the body the pocket will not be crooked. Dust absorption equipment: inhale sawdust and foam, cleaning the table and maintain the machine indirectly.
Break point and break knife continue engraving function, back to the origin of the automatic error correction function: ensure the processing precision in long time work.



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