How to change oil on a 91 honda accord,secrets of my success evening standard uk,how to subconscious mind control,reset password mysql fedora - Tips For You


Some people would rather pay the dealer or a quick change place to go through the trouble of getting the dirty stuff out, and clean stuff in. After the car is safely raised, you'll need to remove the plastic engine cover from under the engine.
There are 3 bolts along the front edge of the cover just to the rear of the bottom edge of the bumper, and 2 on the rear sides, near each wheel. Once you loosen it up with the first turn, put your socket down and loosen the rest by hand. I would think a defect like that would be covered under new tire warranty, unless it was done by someone mounting or unmounting the tire on the rim. We are going to do a step by step oil change to show you guys that are a little sceptical about doing it yourself that it really is a simple project. 5th loosen the filter housing and let it drain,then remove it (be careful the oil will be hot).
6th disassemble the filter and housing over a bench so you dont loose any of the parts,clean all the parts.Use the small screwdriver to carefully remove both of the O-rings and inspect them(the purolator filter I use comes with new O-rings PN# ML16812). Wipe the O-rings clean (even new ones) and lube them with a thin layer of oil (some people use white grease),at this time lube the gaskets on the filter as well. 8th Put the filter assembly back in the housing on the bike and tighten it down to the torque spec 14.5ft.
After clicking on the video itself, I discovered that guy has done a ton of videos on the ninja 250. But one minor quibble: The first two oil changes are not only unnecessary, but really a bad idea when breaking in a new engine. During break in, one of the major concerns is getting the piston rings to seat to the cylinders properly.
If you do not seat the rings properly, you will have problems ranging from excessive oil consumption when you do switch to better oil, to lack of compression or piston damage.


I follow the break in recommended by Rick Petersen, who has built many race and street motorcycle engines in his days.
5: Refill with your preferred oil and start to run the bike normally, stay away from extended high revs or redline for a few hundred miles just to be safe.
I rebuilt my FZ750 (it redlined at 12,000) with 40k miles on it, followed the break-in I just described and rode that bike for another 45,000 miles with absolutely NO engine issues at all.
Ninja Boy is following that break-in schedule (I'm finally up to 550 miles) and it runs great and is no where near as cold blooded as it was when I bought it.
And if I had your bike, i would start off with and oil and filter change, pulling the filter screen to check it and clean it (get the new gasket for that cover, it is only about $6 and cheap insurance against a leak). Change the oil and filter again after 1,000 more miles, then after that follow a normal schedule.
I have come to terms with the possibility of dying while riding, life has a 100% death rate. For anyone else wondering this, if you overtighten with your average wrench, you risk overtightening and puncturing your engine. If you are the website operator please use the ionCube Loader Wizard to assist with installation.
I like to remove the oil filler cap just enough to relieve vacuum when the oil is draining, to let it drain easier and more thoroughly. The cartridge filter housing is spring loaded, so the goal here is to loosen it just enough to relieve spring pressure on the filter element so the oil can drain properly.
Use shop towels to clean the inside of the housing, the drain plug, and the filter cavity on the engine.
Tread wear aside, running a different tire in one corner of the vehicle could make for some rather interesting handling characteristics. In fact, I think Adam on this board bought his ninjette because of that guy and his videos.


You NEED some friction to accomplish that, and the natural breakdown of the oil lets the friction build at a nice rate to allow the rings to seat properly. I would rather live having fun and end up dead in a motorcycle crash than never do anything fun because it's dangerous and I might get killed. Make sure to keep an eye on the draining oil so that the stream doesn't move out of the way of your drain pan opening and start to spill on the floor. Then take the 6mm Allen wrench and remove the drain plug in the middle of the filter housing. Take your new filter kit and replace both O-rings, one on the drain plug, and one on the housing.
The 10mm bolts aren't on very tight, and you may prefer to use a nut driver over the clumsiness of a ratchet on loose bolts. You can use a small flatblade screwdriver and gently pry the center, moving from side to side, or you can use an interior clip remover if you have one.
Dip your finger in a bottle of your new oil and coat the O-rings before putting them in place. Use an allen bit to remove the screw in the center to drain, then use an oil filter wrench to unscrew the big black plastic cap.
If you have the proper know-how or a good mechanic, re-adjusting the air screws, changing to a K&N filter and re-syncing the carbs will help, but not eliminate, the cold bloodedness. A small flat head screwdriver makes getting them in place easier, but be careful not to damage them.



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