How to change your oil pressure sensor,soulmate quotes short round,sonic & the secret rings soundtrack,secret jardin lodge 90 - And More

More than anything, the basic oil change is a great way to connect with your vehicle and take some control over its maintenance. Before heading to the auto parts store to buy supplies, consult the owner's manual to confirm the type and amount of oil that's required. Check to see if the manual calls out other specific oil requirements as defined by the by the American Petroleum Institute (API) and the International Lubricant Standardization Approval Committee (ILSAC.) Sometimes synthetic oil is expressly called for. In addition to oil, you'll need an oil filter, an oil-filter removal wrench, a wrench to remove the drain plug, a funnel, a drain pan and some gloves. Band-type filter wrenches are more familiar, but they can be frustrating to use if you don't have enough space — especially if the old filter was over-tightened.
In this case, the plug and filter are far apart, meaning I must reposition the drain pan after I drain the oil and before I remove the filter.
If yours is one of the growing numbers of new cars with a top-mount cartridge filter, the following oil-drain and refill steps are the same, but the filter change process is not. Go slowly as you remove the drain plug and keep your hands away from the expected path of the oil. The drain plug is properly tightened if you use the box end of a combination wrench and tighten it as much as you can without using a hammer or slipping a pipe over the wrench for extra leverage.
Use rags to clean as much oil away as you can, paying special attention to the filter sealing surface. After you reconfirm that the oil drain bolt and filter are both in place and properly tightened, it's time to add oil. Oil changes are the standard part of our services and are one of the most important procedures for any car. Before draining out the old oil, you may want to open the hood of the car and open the oil filler cap on the top of the engine.
The drain plug is located at the bottom of the oil pan normally towards the back of the engine.
If your vehicle has a special type of filter element rather than the typical spinning type, this requires you to open the oil cap and remove the filter element. It's a simple process that requires few tools, and it's a sure way to save some money while you avoid the hassle of sitting in a dull waiting room somewhere reading outdated magazines. The time you spend under the hood and under the car affords you an excellent opportunity to look around and see if anything else needs attention. You may also need to raise the car to gain access, in which case you'll need a floor jack and safety stands, or a pair of purpose-made steel ramps.
Also, my drain pan has a screw-on lid and pour spout, which makes it easier to transport and recycle the old oil. Wrenches like that are available at most auto parts stores for a few dollars and they snap onto the end of any common three-eighth-inch-drive ratchet.
Let the car sit so the exhaust system cools off some, but don't allow things to go stone cold.
Some newer cars have these aerodynamic covers to improve fuel economy and keep things clean. For this reason, I'm going to completely finish draining and replugging the engine before I work on the filter.
It's important to place the drain pan under the drain plug — but not directly under it. You've held your thumb atop a drinking straw filled with water to keep it from running out, right?
The hex end on a typical drain plug is almost always a common size that comes in a standard tool assortment, but even the domestic carmakers tend to use metric in the 14-17mm range.
Theoretically, there is a torque specification for drain plugs, but they're almost never published in the owner's manual.

A standard-length three-eighth-inch drive ratchet will work if you choke up on it a bit, but anything longer or larger can lead you down the path of over-tightening.
Generally, oil filters are tightened no more than three-quarters of a turn to a full turn beyond the point where the O-ring first contacts the sealing surface. Run the engine for 30 seconds or so to circulate the new oil, then shut it down and check your work area underneath the car for leaks. Because I short-filled it slightly, it was no surprise that I had to add a little more oil. Your engine needs clean oil to prevent wear and tear on engine components, which can decrease engine performance and significantly reduce the life of your engine. Before we continue we must mention that changing your own oil can be dangerous and that it should be done with lot of care.
As you drive along and increase your mileage, oil gets blocked naturally and is filled with unwanted elements.
However some drivers may need to do that sooner depending on their type of car and the way in which they drive.
Five-quart jugs are tempting because they are cheaper than smaller sizes, but I find them heavy and hard to pour steadily. If I had read the manual carelessly, though, I could easily have brought home 5W-20 instead.
There are many sizes, but it's easy to make sure you buy the right one if you match the wrench to the filter right there in the store. Oftentimes you don't need to remove tires, but I did it anyway so our photographer, Elon Schoenholz, could have a clear view of things. If these elements were closer (or if my pan were bigger) I could begin removing the filter while the last of the oil was still dribbling out. The angle of the drain plug will cause the oil to stream out at an angle, so I'm offsetting the pan to that side by several inches.
It's not quite the same here, because oil would still drain with the oil filler cap on, but it does seem to flow out more smoothly and quickly with the cap removed. A three-eighth-inch drive ratchet is perfectly fine, of course, as long as you remind yourself not to use its extra leverage to over-tighten the drain plug when you put it back later.
Even if you do find the spec, it's unlikely that the half-inch drive torque wrench you bought to tighten lug nuts will go low enough for this job.
This rarely happens nowadays, but it's one of those things you check anyway because a double stack of O-rings won't seal, allowing your new oil to pump out and ruin your engine. I'm spinning the filter on gently until the O-ring makes first contact with the sealing surface. You can go to a full turn if you can manage it by hand, but don't resort to a filter wrench just because you want to tighten it more than the recommended amount. As usual, you'll know the level is full when the oil comes up to the upper hole or hash mark. Once you've done an oil change a couple times and you are familiar with your car's idiosyncrasies, the whole job takes less than 30 minutes. The controlled detonations inside a vehicle’s engine heat the metal parts up to 600 degrees Fahrenheit.
If nothing else, taking the cap off now serves as a reminder to put the new oil in before you start the engine. This is another reason why it's best not to change oil when the engine and its oil are piping hot. If your drain plug does need a replacement washer, make sure the old one isn't stuck to the engine's oil pan — you don't want to inadvertently stack a new washer atop the old one. In most cases you'll only need a filter wrench for tightening if access is too tight or if your hands are too oily for a solid grip.

If you stockpile oil and filters in your garage, you'll save both time and money compared to going to a mechanic. You need clean oil to remove excess engine heat and to prevent carbon and varnish buildup in the engine.Regular oil changes keep the engine healthy.
If so, ensure that you have the correct type of tool such as an adding an extension to your ratchet. And once you get comfortable with the basic oil change, a whole slew of other maintenance tasks begin to seem within easy reach.
Remove the drain plug gasket and replace it too unless the washer is in good enough condition to be reused. The sheer number of options may seem bewildering, but using the most appropriate oil for your vehicle is the best way to get peak performance and a long engine life. The Explorer does, but it's held in place with four twist-release clips that don't require any tools for removal. Thick, sluggish oil in cold weather is as bad for your engine as thin, watery oil is in hot weather.
Both increase friction, which can result in costly engine repairs.Using the right oil will save you from some costly repairs. Image courtesy of Wikipedia.The Society of Automotive Engineers – SAE – grades the viscosity of engine oils.
The lower the number preceding the W, the less resistant the oil is to thickening during winter.
Image courtesy of api.orgThe letter following the S for gasoline engines designates the suitability of the oil for various types of engines. API currently uses three performance-level designations following the C – CJ-4, CI-4, CH-4.Some oils are dual-purpose that meet the requirements of gasoline and diesel engines.
CI-4 Plus indicates CI-4 oils have a higher performance level.Avoid using cheap oils for your vehicle that are not API graded. Low-quality oils reduce engine efficiency and do not provide the engine protection you need for a long-life engine. It’s prudent to also avoid using various engine additives, which might do more harm than good. Types of Engine Oils: Why Are There So Many?Always stick to the manufacturer recommendations when choosing engine oil. The key metric that should guide your oil selection is the oil’s viscosity grade, such as 10W30, and its quality. The wrong grade of oil can wreak havoc on the life of your engine.In order to know which engine oil is best for your car, check the oil filler cap. If you’re unsure about the recommended frequency of oil changes, consult with a professional auto mechanic or your dealership.What type of oil do you use?
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