I’m glad to report that, after taking about a year off from my Corvette Restoration project to work on other projects, progress is being made on the Corvette once again! In the last update the engine bay wiring and plumbing work was completed in preparation for lowering the body onto the chassis for the last time. Once the engine and transmission were in and bolted securely to the chassis, the shift linkage was installed and adjusted to assure smooth shifting. With the headers loosely hanging in place by just two bolts, one at each end, the gaskets were slipped into place and the remaining bolts installed and tightened to manufacturer specifications.
After installing the exhaust the clutch cross shaft assembly was cleaned up and a rebuilt kit installed before bolting it back to the chassis.
The assembly was tapped lightly with a hammer to verify it was properly seated and the locking ring was installed to hold the ball stud assembly in place.
With the clutch cross shaft bolted in place and torqued to manufacturers specifications my focus shifted slightly. Next on my list of random punch list items was to install and tighten the torque bar bolts for the suspension system. As you can see in the photo below the driveshaft was not installed when I initially dropped the body. With the chassis ready to go the body was lifted off the body dolly using my lifting frame.
Now that the body and chassis are back together my next area of focus will be on rewiring the interior, installing the windshield and various interior components and, finally, body work and painting.


The adjustment procedure for the shift linkage can be found in the Corvette Assembly Instruction Manual, a must-have for anyone restoring a Corvette!
I was able to find a great deal on a used but never installed stainless steel dual exhaust system so I set to work getting that installed. Note that the engine-side ball stud had already been bolted into place shortly after the engine rebuilt was finished. The transmission tunnel insulation that had been on backorder for a while finally arrived so I set to work installing it. I had tried installing these quite some time ago but, without the weight of the engine on the chassis, the suspension was not compressed enough to install the bolts. This was a major oversight on my part since you can’t install the driveshaft with the body on unless you remove the rear differential. After the body was lifted high enough to clear the gas tank the chassis was rolled into place and positioned beneath the body. Every few inches a walk-around was completed to check for conflicts and verify the body mounts on the chassis and body were properly aligned. To begin the chassis received a good bath before the engine and transmission were carefully lowered into place. Because the stock system was manufactured to work with stock headers a bit of custom fabrication was needed to match the headers into the exhaust. All of this was causing the ball stud to bind up a bit so a quick cleaning with a Dremel tool was completed to ensure smooth operation.


The insulation is simply pressed into place and the clips folded over to secure the insulation. It was a pain since it took a while to research and verify each bolts torque specifications, but I figured this an important step before dropping the body. After the body mount shims were installed the process of lowering the body into place was started.
This is a major milestone since it means that my project is now taking up only half of the garage! This will allow me to take some measurements before buying mufflers and ensure the exhaust tips are properly located within the rear valence panel.
Needless to say I ended up having to lift the body a few inches of the chassis so the driveshaft could be installed. My wife quickly reclaimed her parking space and I set to work installing and tightening the body mount bolts.



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